Fabrics Flashcards

1
Q

Why is wool used in men’s suiting?

A

Doesn’t retain heat easlily
Retains shape well (doesn’t wrinkle)
Durable
Insulating

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2
Q

What makes quality wool?

A
Fineness
Cleanliness
Color
Length (longer - more elasticity and softer hand/ shorter - worsted)
Scale structure
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3
Q

What is a micron

A

Millionth of a meter
Lower the #, the finer the fabric
Lower micron = higher super #

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4
Q

Tux Fabrics

A

always add $150 for formal treatment

Good:
Esquire 120’s - $1260+
Esquire 150’s - 1340+
Kerry Knoll 150’s - $1760+

Better:
Zenith - $1945+
Marzoni E1 - $1500 - $2600
VB revenge - $2570

Best:
Dormeuil Ceremonial $2500
Saratelle - $2930

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5
Q

Tell me about Portofino fabrics

A
Jacketings by Gladson
From the Biella mills 
Fashion forward
Great bamboo, linen fabrics
Great hand and patterns
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6
Q

Tell me about Pure Cashmere

A

Jacketings and coating fabric
SC $3500 - $6500
TC $5200 -$9930
Cashmere and camel hair

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7
Q

Tell me about Vitale Barberis

A

Comes from Biella region of Italy, famous for mills in the Alps

Legacy:
2x2 fabric
Wrinkle resistant
Super 110s
$2100 is dollar for dollar best suit

Revenge:
Super 140s and 150s
$2500

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8
Q

Tell me about Blasone

A

By Gladson
Super 110s merino wool
45 colors
$650 best pants, golf pants

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9
Q

Suiting prices & super # (Derby)

A

Suit: $1250-$1420
Sport coat: $960-$1060
Pant: $420
Shirt: 190

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10
Q

Suiting prices & super # (Esquire)

A

120s, 130s, 150s

Suit: $1330-$1420
Sport coat: $1060
Pant: $460

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11
Q

Suiting prices & super # (Kerry Knoll)

A
130s and 150s
Suit: 
$1530-$1760 (W)
$1700-$1930 (B)
Blazer:
$1160-$1230 (W)
$1330-$1400 (B)
Pant:
$530
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12
Q

Suiting prices & super # (Zenith)

A

130, 140, 150, 160

Suit
$1700-$2430 (W)
$1930-$2600 (B)

Blazer
$1200 (w)
$1360-$1930 (b)

Pant
$630

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13
Q

Tell me about Dormeuil

A

English cloth
80% manufactured in England, 20% in Italy
English 2x2 weave (strong!)
Top dye (dyed prior to being woven into cloth for richness in color)
Amadeus 365 - great for every day year round suiting (wrinkle res.)

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14
Q

Shirting prices

A

Norwich $210-$220
Puro $240 (fancy solids and plain solids)
Stoffa $275 (high fabric count)

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15
Q

Four types of construction

A
Plain weave (lightest and coolest)
3 harness (different on reverse side)
4 harness (majority)
Basket weave/hop sack
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16
Q

Most common tux by TC

A

1 button peak lapel
1 button shawl collar
Satin or grosgrain

17
Q

Scabal pricing

A

$2200+ suit

$5000 for cashmere denim sporcoat

18
Q

Warp

A

Threads that run up and down on a loom or in a woven fabric

19
Q

Weft

A

Threads that run from side to side on a loom or in a wove fabric

20
Q

Wool

A

Natural stain and wrinkle resistant. Can absorb up to 40% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp.

21
Q

Shoulder types

A
Natural
Capped
Medium roped
Heavy roped
Pagoda
Ultra soft
22
Q

If a guy is wearing Ted Baker, Theory or Hugo Boss, sell him…

A

Derby

23
Q

If a guy wears Brooks Brothers, Burberry…

A

Derby, Esquire, Kerry Knoll

24
Q

If a guy wears Hickey Freeman or RL….

A

KK or VB

25
Q

If a guy is wearing Canali

A

VB Revenge, Dormeuil

26
Q

If a guy wears Paul Stewart or JV

A

Kensington, VB

27
Q

If a guy wears Zegna

A

VB

28
Q

If a guy wears Brioni

A

Dormeuil, Aquaplan, VB

29
Q

If a guy wears Oxxford

A

Revenge, Dormeuil, loro piana

30
Q

If a guy wears Kiton

A

Dormeuil, Aquaplan, VB