Fabrics Flashcards
Why is wool used in men’s suiting?
Doesn’t retain heat easlily
Retains shape well (doesn’t wrinkle)
Durable
Insulating
What makes quality wool?
Fineness Cleanliness Color Length (longer - more elasticity and softer hand/ shorter - worsted) Scale structure
What is a micron
Millionth of a meter
Lower the #, the finer the fabric
Lower micron = higher super #
Tux Fabrics
always add $150 for formal treatment
Good:
Esquire 120’s - $1260+
Esquire 150’s - 1340+
Kerry Knoll 150’s - $1760+
Better:
Zenith - $1945+
Marzoni E1 - $1500 - $2600
VB revenge - $2570
Best:
Dormeuil Ceremonial $2500
Saratelle - $2930
Tell me about Portofino fabrics
Jacketings by Gladson From the Biella mills Fashion forward Great bamboo, linen fabrics Great hand and patterns
Tell me about Pure Cashmere
Jacketings and coating fabric
SC $3500 - $6500
TC $5200 -$9930
Cashmere and camel hair
Tell me about Vitale Barberis
Comes from Biella region of Italy, famous for mills in the Alps
Legacy: 2x2 fabric Wrinkle resistant Super 110s $2100 is dollar for dollar best suit
Revenge:
Super 140s and 150s
$2500
Tell me about Blasone
By Gladson
Super 110s merino wool
45 colors
$650 best pants, golf pants
Suiting prices & super # (Derby)
Suit: $1250-$1420
Sport coat: $960-$1060
Pant: $420
Shirt: 190
Suiting prices & super # (Esquire)
120s, 130s, 150s
Suit: $1330-$1420
Sport coat: $1060
Pant: $460
Suiting prices & super # (Kerry Knoll)
130s and 150s Suit: $1530-$1760 (W) $1700-$1930 (B) Blazer: $1160-$1230 (W) $1330-$1400 (B) Pant: $530
Suiting prices & super # (Zenith)
130, 140, 150, 160
Suit
$1700-$2430 (W)
$1930-$2600 (B)
Blazer
$1200 (w)
$1360-$1930 (b)
Pant
$630
Tell me about Dormeuil
English cloth
80% manufactured in England, 20% in Italy
English 2x2 weave (strong!)
Top dye (dyed prior to being woven into cloth for richness in color)
Amadeus 365 - great for every day year round suiting (wrinkle res.)
Shirting prices
Norwich $210-$220
Puro $240 (fancy solids and plain solids)
Stoffa $275 (high fabric count)
Four types of construction
Plain weave (lightest and coolest) 3 harness (different on reverse side) 4 harness (majority) Basket weave/hop sack
Most common tux by TC
1 button peak lapel
1 button shawl collar
Satin or grosgrain
Scabal pricing
$2200+ suit
$5000 for cashmere denim sporcoat
Warp
Threads that run up and down on a loom or in a woven fabric
Weft
Threads that run from side to side on a loom or in a wove fabric
Wool
Natural stain and wrinkle resistant. Can absorb up to 40% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp.
Shoulder types
Natural Capped Medium roped Heavy roped Pagoda Ultra soft
If a guy is wearing Ted Baker, Theory or Hugo Boss, sell him…
Derby
If a guy wears Brooks Brothers, Burberry…
Derby, Esquire, Kerry Knoll
If a guy wears Hickey Freeman or RL….
KK or VB
If a guy is wearing Canali
VB Revenge, Dormeuil
If a guy wears Paul Stewart or JV
Kensington, VB
If a guy wears Zegna
VB
If a guy wears Brioni
Dormeuil, Aquaplan, VB
If a guy wears Oxxford
Revenge, Dormeuil, loro piana
If a guy wears Kiton
Dormeuil, Aquaplan, VB
