Exam 3 Flashcards
What does Tsu mean?
Harbor
What does Nami mean?
Wave
What are tsunamis not?
confined to harbors and are not created by tides
How are tsunamis created?
undersea earthquakes, landslides or volcanic activity
How does energy travel in tsunamis?
Outward (like ripples that spread when a rock is thrown into a pond)
What are two of the most recent devastating tsunamis?
Indian Ocean Tsunami (12/26/04) Japan Tsunami (3/11/11)
What is the wave height on shore of a tsunami called?
“run-up”
What happens as a tsunami travels?
can bend and their speed can change due to the shape of the basin
How fast can a tsunami move in the deep ocean?
about 400 mph
What is the average wavelength of a tsunami?
125
How does a tsunami travel?
like a shallow water wave
When the front of a tsunami wave slows down, what happens?
the back of the wave “piles up” to a tremendous height
What is the approximate interval of crests and troughs of a tsunami wave?
about 15 minutes
About how tall can a tsunami wave get?
30 meters (98 feet) or higher
What determines the height of the tsunami on shore?
coastline shape and distance from the triggering event (earthquake)
What is the objective of the Tsunami Warning System?
predict the intensity and time of arrival of tsunami generated by earthquakes
What measures sea level changes as a tsunami passes over?
Anchored instruments, buoys that sense the period and wavelengths of waves in mid-ocean
Where do Tsunami’s typically occur?
near the Pacific ocean
What are giant heaps of trash that collect on the west coast of North America called?
Garbage Islands
Up until 1990 how much did the Global Sea Level rise per year?
2 mm/year
Currently, how much does the GSL rise each year?
3 mm/year
How much as the GSL risen over the last 7000 years?
9 meters
What affects the GSL?
ice on the continents, sea floor spreading rates, and global warming or cooling
Why are future projects for GSL threatening?
a large population of the world lives within 2 meters of the sea level currently and it could cause major coastal cities to be destroyed (Miami, New Orleans, Norfolk)
During this century, how much do we expect the sea level to rise with no changes in global warming?
2 to 6 feet
What does the shape of a coast depend on?
uplift and subsidence, erosion, the redistribution of material by sediment transport
What characterizes an erosional coast?
land-based influences determine the form, “young”, rough, and irregular
What characterizes a depositional coast?
heavily influenced by marine processes, usually older
Erosional coasts shape primary coasts by?
land erosion, land processes, volcanic activity, earth movements
Depositional coasts shape secondary coasts by?
waves and currents, stream erosion, abrasion of wind-driven particles, freeze/thaw cycles, slumping
What will happen if a wave approaches a shore at an angle?
the part of the wave closest to the shore will slow down due to friction, the wave offshore will maintain its speed, and overall, the wave will bend so that it’s more parallel to the shore
What shapes an erosional coast?
wave energy
What shapes a depositional coast?
sediment transport
What is movement of sand along a beach by wave action referred to as?
Longshore drift
What are regions where sand input and outflow are balanced?
coastal cells
What does the slope of a beach depend on?
Particle size
What develop when water piles against the shore and flows offshore in a fast and narrow path?
rip current
How do you escape a rip current?
swim parallel to the shore
What ancient harbor was filled with sediment carried by rivers?
Troy, near Scamander river in Turkey
What was another North African Coastal harbor that was silted in during ancient times?
Leptis Magna Harbor
What is the percentage of homes that are within 500 feet of the coast that will be destroyed within the next 60 years?
25%
What are some examples of coastal erosion driven by storms?
California mudslides, Gulf of Mexico Hurricanes, Longshore transport, Atlantic coast
What are some examples of shoreline stabilization?
Groins (walls perpendicular to the shore), Seawalls, Sand replenishment
What are ripraps?
irregular rocky structures that dissipate wave energy
What reduces beach erosion by the wind?
Wind Fences
What is referred to as “the hungry current”?
sand depletion and erosion that’s accelerated “downstream” of the barrier
What does FEMA stand for?
Federal Emergency Management Agency
What are barrier islands?
sandy, dynamic environments subject to severe erosion during storms in the U.S.
How are barrier islands created?
short-term sand deposits that move created by long-shore transport
What are some famous barrier islands?
Atlantic City, NJ; Ocean City, MD; Miami Beach, FL; Palm Beach, FL; Galveston, TX
What brings water far inland in low-lying, flat areas?
Storm Surges
What is the second largest fiscal liability of the U.S. Government?
National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP)
What percentage of the population is living in coastal zones?
37%
What was the pay out by NFIP following Hurricane Katrina?
$16 Billion
How high must a rebuilt structure be according to FEMA regulations?
2 feet higher than the water level it was destroyed by
What are some factors to look into when choosing a coastal property?
Which direction is longshore transport? Is my section of the beach gaining or losing? Where is the dunefield? What changes are being made to the beach below and above me? Is there history of storm damage there? Is the house on a cliff? Do you know where to get coastal erosion maps or flood maps?
Where can you get flood maps?
FEMA.gov
What is the 100 year flood line?
0.1
What is the 500 year flood line?
0.2
What is the definition of pollution?
substances that cause damage by interfering with an organism’s physical or biochemical processes
What are natural pollutants?
volcanic eruptions (sulfuric acid)
What are Anthropogenic pollutants?
pollutants made by men (synthetic organic materials) - pesticides
What is solubility?
the ability of a substance to be dissolved
What is an example of a water soluble material?
raw sewage, fertilizer
What are characteristics of fat soluble materials?
binds with fat, accumulates in fatty tissues
What are some examples of fat soluble materials?
PCBs, DDT, some heavy metals
What are some insoluble materials?
oil, plastic, metal
What are the 6 types of marine pollution?
Petroleum, Synthetic Organic Chemicals, Heavy Metals, Solid Waste, Sewage, Fertilizer
What are examples of heavy metals?
Lead, Mercury, Copper, Iron
What pollutants are in fertilizer?
nitrate and phosphate
What are the three sources of characterization involve pollution?
Quantity, Toxicity, and Persistence
90% of oil enters the ocean via?
run-off from human activities
What are the two types of oil spills?
Crude and refined
What is the most common type of oil spill?
crude oil - large volume, doesnt dissolve easily
What type of oil spill is more disruptive for longer periods of time?
Refined oil
Why is a refined oil spill more of a concern?
because more refined oil is transported by sea