Exam 1 Flashcards
65% of apparel goods in the United States are:
Imported
What are the issues with most of the United States’s goods being imported?
Currency fluctuations, production delays, high transportation costs, striking workers at ports and factories, customs hold ups, political unrest
How textiles are packaged to be sold
Put-up
Pieces less than 40 yards in length and are typically purchased by jobbers (who buy excess/run)
Shorts
What are the primary sources of fabrics?
Mills, converters, importers, jobbers, retailers, and overseas agents
Sell directly to the customer
Retailers
What are a few facts about the US textile industry?
- It is a domestic-to-large import industry.
- The sales is $60 billion.
- The United States trades internationally with over 150 countries.
Finished goods
Griege goods
What are private label goods?
Example: All GAP tags say “GAP.”
What is the range of textile market planning (retail selling)?
1.5 to 2 years from retail
How long ahead of retail are finished product lines presented?
6 months
Selling seasons are typically _______ or _______ for apparel goods.
Fall; spring
What is Fair Trade?
Indicates that a product was produced:
- without labor exploitation
- using environmentally sustainable practices
- negotiated with fair prices
What are the 2 major international groups that promote fair trade?
- Fair Trade Labeling Organizations
2. International Federation for Alternative Trade
Fabric has plant sources
Cellulosic
Fiber has animal sources
Protein
Fiber has chemical sources
Synthetic
Describe natural fibers.
- found existing in nature
- come from plants or animals
What are examples of natural fibers?
Cotton, hemp, cashmere
Describe manufactured fibers.
Produced from chemical solutions that are forced through a spinerrete
What are the three methods for producing manufactured fibers?
Dry spinning, wet spinning, melt spinning
What is the dry spinning method for manufactured fibers?
The fiber is mixed with a solvent, the solution is forced through the spinerette into warm air, and the solvent evaporates and the fiber hardens.
What is the wet spinning method for manufactured fibers?
The fiber solution is forced through the spinerette and then into a liquid solution, and the solution causes the fiber streams to harden into filaments.
What is the melt spinning method for manufactured fibers?
The solid is melted into a liquid and forced through the spinerette into cool air to harden.
Fiber whose lengths are measured in inches
Staple
Fibers who lengths are measured in lengths up to miles
Filament
What is the difference between staple and filament fibers?
Staple fibers are short, filament fibers are long, and most staple fibers are natural, whereas filament fibers are synthetic.
True or false: staple fibers will never be a filament fiber, but filament fibers can be staple fibers.
True
Which is more expensive per pound to produce: staple or filament fibers?
Filament
The bends and twists along the length of a fiber that increases resiliency, bulk, warmth, elongation, absorbency, and skin comfort
Crimp
Which fiber is the only one with naturally occurring crimp?
Wool
What is true about the fiber diameter, and how thicker and thinner fibers differ?
Thicker fibers are stiffer, rougher, and wrinkle resistant.
Thinner fibers are more drapable, soft, lightweight, and may be sheer.
The way a fiber feels
Hand
The characteristic of resisting damage and fiber loss by friction, and dismissing wear-life, causing loss of textural features and luster
Abrasion resistance
Formation of tiny balls of fiber ends and lint on the surface; aesthetically unpleasant, caused by wear and or abrasion, hydrophobic fibers and electrical static attraction
Pilling
Ability of a textile structure to occupy an area, covering power depends on structural features - cross sectional shape, etc., round covers less than flat
Covering power
Density of a fiber relative to that of water, which is 1
-fibers that sink 1
Specific gravity
Ability of a fiber to be stretched
Elongation
Ability of a strained material to recover its original shape after being stretched
Elasticity
What are examples of materials that are elastometric fibers?
Spandex, elastrill-p, lastol, rubber
Ability of a fiber to return to its original shape after bending, stretching, and compression
Resiliency
A determining factor in strength (how much weight it can hold), measured by pounds per square inch
Tensile strength
Ability to resist stress, ability to withstand tension without tearing or breaking, and can be engineered into man-made fibers for high-performance materials
Strength
Ability to be repeatedly flexed or bent without breaking, impacts drape and comfort, an example is flax (has nodes to bend)
Flexibility
Retain given size and shape through use and care, shrinkage, relaxation, lack of elasticity, problems during wear and cleaning
Dimensional Stability
Sensitivity to heat, fibers that melt or glaze at relatively low temperatures, impacts cleaning and ironing temperature, permanent wrinkles, provide permanent creases or pleats
Thermoplasticity
Rate at which a material conducts heat, low rate is a better insulator, property dependent on fabric structure, low rate provides warmth, high rate provides cooling properties
Heat Conductivity
The ability of a material to ignite or burn, three types
Flammability
What are the three types of flammability?
- Flammable fibers (ignites)
- Flame resistant/retardant fibers (self-extinguish)
- Flameproof (won’t ignite)
The ability of a fiber to transfer electrical charges
Electrical Conductivity
Fibers with low electrical conductivity that build up charges, causing fabric cling or electrical shocks
Epitropic fibers
% of moisture or bone-dry that will absorb from air under standard conditions of temperature and moisture, natural fibers have much higher than man made fibers
Moisture absorbency
Which is easier to clean: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?
Hydrophilic
Which has a softer skin comfort: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?
Hydrophilic
Which is easier to dye: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?
Hydrophilic
Which has more static buildup: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?
Hydrophobic
Which has a greater water repellency: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?
Hydrophobic
Which has better wrinkle recovery: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?
Hydrophobic
The ability of a material to transfer moisture along its surface, adds to comfort, and resembles fluid moving up a candle
Wickability
What are the categories of fiber performance properties?
Aesthetics, Durability, Comfort, Safety
What are the 4 major natural fibers and what category do they fall into?
Cellulosic - Cotton, Flax (or linen)
Protein - Wool, Silk
What are the 3 natural cellulosic fibers classifications?
- Seed fibers
- Bast fibers (stem)
- Leaf fibers
What type of fiber is cotton?
Seed
Describe cotton.
The most important fiber in the world, an important cash crop, used for textiles since Ancient Egypt, grown in the US since establishment of southern countries, and used in the cotton gin invented by Eli Whitney to separate the seed and fiber
Who are the major world producers of cotton?
China, United States, India, Turkey, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Brazil, Astoria, and Africa
Describe upland cotton.
95% of cotton production in the United States, short staple cotton, produced on the boll (seed pod)
What is the color of the majority of the raw cotton?
Creamy white
Is cotton a staple or filament fiber?
Staple
Ribbonlike twists that characterize mature cotton
Convolutions
What are some favorable properties of cotton?
Strong, good abrasion resistance, hydrophilic, absorbs moisture quickly and dries quickly which makes it comfortable, launderable/dry cleanable, no static or pilling, fair drape, inexpensive, 10% stronger when wet
What are some unfavorable properties of cotton?
Poor elasticity and resiliency, little luster, prone to mildew and silverfish, weakened by acidic materials and by many resins used in finishing, and produces lint
Fibers that come from the stem of the plant
Bast
What are some examples of bast fibers?
Flax, Ramie, Hemp, and Jute
Describe flax.
Found in prehistoric dwellings in Switzerland and in ancient Egypt, “flax” is the fiber name but “linen” is the fabric made from flax fiber, has nodes, resembles bamboo, flexible
What fiber is the strongest of all plant fibers?
Flax
“China grass”; China is major producer, can be harvested more than once a year; similar to flax
Ramie
Describe jute.
Primary use is burlap bags, retains shape, is strong and inexpensive, strengthens seams on carpet backing and cording
Which fiber is becoming popular for its “green fiber” label in the apparel market?
Hemp
Describe hemp.
Widely available, grows quickly and requires little maintenance, and used for twine, rope, and cordage