Exam 1 Flashcards

1
Q

65% of apparel goods in the United States are:

A

Imported

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2
Q

What are the issues with most of the United States’s goods being imported?

A

Currency fluctuations, production delays, high transportation costs, striking workers at ports and factories, customs hold ups, political unrest

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3
Q

How textiles are packaged to be sold

A

Put-up

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4
Q

Pieces less than 40 yards in length and are typically purchased by jobbers (who buy excess/run)

A

Shorts

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5
Q

What are the primary sources of fabrics?

A

Mills, converters, importers, jobbers, retailers, and overseas agents

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6
Q

Sell directly to the customer

A

Retailers

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7
Q

What are a few facts about the US textile industry?

A
  • It is a domestic-to-large import industry.
  • The sales is $60 billion.
  • The United States trades internationally with over 150 countries.
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8
Q

Finished goods

A

Griege goods

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9
Q

What are private label goods?

A

Example: All GAP tags say “GAP.”

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10
Q

What is the range of textile market planning (retail selling)?

A

1.5 to 2 years from retail

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11
Q

How long ahead of retail are finished product lines presented?

A

6 months

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12
Q

Selling seasons are typically _______ or _______ for apparel goods.

A

Fall; spring

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13
Q

What is Fair Trade?

A

Indicates that a product was produced:

  • without labor exploitation
  • using environmentally sustainable practices
  • negotiated with fair prices
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14
Q

What are the 2 major international groups that promote fair trade?

A
  1. Fair Trade Labeling Organizations

2. International Federation for Alternative Trade

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15
Q

Fabric has plant sources

A

Cellulosic

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16
Q

Fiber has animal sources

A

Protein

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17
Q

Fiber has chemical sources

A

Synthetic

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18
Q

Describe natural fibers.

A
  • found existing in nature

- come from plants or animals

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19
Q

What are examples of natural fibers?

A

Cotton, hemp, cashmere

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20
Q

Describe manufactured fibers.

A

Produced from chemical solutions that are forced through a spinerrete

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21
Q

What are the three methods for producing manufactured fibers?

A

Dry spinning, wet spinning, melt spinning

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22
Q

What is the dry spinning method for manufactured fibers?

A

The fiber is mixed with a solvent, the solution is forced through the spinerette into warm air, and the solvent evaporates and the fiber hardens.

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23
Q

What is the wet spinning method for manufactured fibers?

A

The fiber solution is forced through the spinerette and then into a liquid solution, and the solution causes the fiber streams to harden into filaments.

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24
Q

What is the melt spinning method for manufactured fibers?

A

The solid is melted into a liquid and forced through the spinerette into cool air to harden.

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25
Q

Fiber whose lengths are measured in inches

A

Staple

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26
Q

Fibers who lengths are measured in lengths up to miles

A

Filament

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27
Q

What is the difference between staple and filament fibers?

A

Staple fibers are short, filament fibers are long, and most staple fibers are natural, whereas filament fibers are synthetic.

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28
Q

True or false: staple fibers will never be a filament fiber, but filament fibers can be staple fibers.

A

True

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29
Q

Which is more expensive per pound to produce: staple or filament fibers?

A

Filament

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30
Q

The bends and twists along the length of a fiber that increases resiliency, bulk, warmth, elongation, absorbency, and skin comfort

A

Crimp

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31
Q

Which fiber is the only one with naturally occurring crimp?

A

Wool

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32
Q

What is true about the fiber diameter, and how thicker and thinner fibers differ?

A

Thicker fibers are stiffer, rougher, and wrinkle resistant.

Thinner fibers are more drapable, soft, lightweight, and may be sheer.

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33
Q

The way a fiber feels

A

Hand

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34
Q

The characteristic of resisting damage and fiber loss by friction, and dismissing wear-life, causing loss of textural features and luster

A

Abrasion resistance

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35
Q

Formation of tiny balls of fiber ends and lint on the surface; aesthetically unpleasant, caused by wear and or abrasion, hydrophobic fibers and electrical static attraction

A

Pilling

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36
Q

Ability of a textile structure to occupy an area, covering power depends on structural features - cross sectional shape, etc., round covers less than flat

A

Covering power

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37
Q

Density of a fiber relative to that of water, which is 1

-fibers that sink 1

A

Specific gravity

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38
Q

Ability of a fiber to be stretched

A

Elongation

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39
Q

Ability of a strained material to recover its original shape after being stretched

A

Elasticity

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40
Q

What are examples of materials that are elastometric fibers?

A

Spandex, elastrill-p, lastol, rubber

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41
Q

Ability of a fiber to return to its original shape after bending, stretching, and compression

A

Resiliency

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42
Q

A determining factor in strength (how much weight it can hold), measured by pounds per square inch

A

Tensile strength

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43
Q

Ability to resist stress, ability to withstand tension without tearing or breaking, and can be engineered into man-made fibers for high-performance materials

A

Strength

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44
Q

Ability to be repeatedly flexed or bent without breaking, impacts drape and comfort, an example is flax (has nodes to bend)

A

Flexibility

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45
Q

Retain given size and shape through use and care, shrinkage, relaxation, lack of elasticity, problems during wear and cleaning

A

Dimensional Stability

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46
Q

Sensitivity to heat, fibers that melt or glaze at relatively low temperatures, impacts cleaning and ironing temperature, permanent wrinkles, provide permanent creases or pleats

A

Thermoplasticity

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47
Q

Rate at which a material conducts heat, low rate is a better insulator, property dependent on fabric structure, low rate provides warmth, high rate provides cooling properties

A

Heat Conductivity

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48
Q

The ability of a material to ignite or burn, three types

A

Flammability

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49
Q

What are the three types of flammability?

A
  1. Flammable fibers (ignites)
  2. Flame resistant/retardant fibers (self-extinguish)
  3. Flameproof (won’t ignite)
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50
Q

The ability of a fiber to transfer electrical charges

A

Electrical Conductivity

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51
Q

Fibers with low electrical conductivity that build up charges, causing fabric cling or electrical shocks

A

Epitropic fibers

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52
Q

% of moisture or bone-dry that will absorb from air under standard conditions of temperature and moisture, natural fibers have much higher than man made fibers

A

Moisture absorbency

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53
Q

Which is easier to clean: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?

A

Hydrophilic

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54
Q

Which has a softer skin comfort: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?

A

Hydrophilic

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55
Q

Which is easier to dye: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?

A

Hydrophilic

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56
Q

Which has more static buildup: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?

A

Hydrophobic

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57
Q

Which has a greater water repellency: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?

A

Hydrophobic

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58
Q

Which has better wrinkle recovery: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?

A

Hydrophobic

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59
Q

The ability of a material to transfer moisture along its surface, adds to comfort, and resembles fluid moving up a candle

A

Wickability

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60
Q

What are the categories of fiber performance properties?

A

Aesthetics, Durability, Comfort, Safety

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61
Q

What are the 4 major natural fibers and what category do they fall into?

A

Cellulosic - Cotton, Flax (or linen)

Protein - Wool, Silk

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62
Q

What are the 3 natural cellulosic fibers classifications?

A
  1. Seed fibers
  2. Bast fibers (stem)
  3. Leaf fibers
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63
Q

What type of fiber is cotton?

A

Seed

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64
Q

Describe cotton.

A

The most important fiber in the world, an important cash crop, used for textiles since Ancient Egypt, grown in the US since establishment of southern countries, and used in the cotton gin invented by Eli Whitney to separate the seed and fiber

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65
Q

Who are the major world producers of cotton?

A

China, United States, India, Turkey, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Brazil, Astoria, and Africa

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66
Q

Describe upland cotton.

A

95% of cotton production in the United States, short staple cotton, produced on the boll (seed pod)

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67
Q

What is the color of the majority of the raw cotton?

A

Creamy white

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68
Q

Is cotton a staple or filament fiber?

A

Staple

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69
Q

Ribbonlike twists that characterize mature cotton

A

Convolutions

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70
Q

What are some favorable properties of cotton?

A

Strong, good abrasion resistance, hydrophilic, absorbs moisture quickly and dries quickly which makes it comfortable, launderable/dry cleanable, no static or pilling, fair drape, inexpensive, 10% stronger when wet

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71
Q

What are some unfavorable properties of cotton?

A

Poor elasticity and resiliency, little luster, prone to mildew and silverfish, weakened by acidic materials and by many resins used in finishing, and produces lint

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72
Q

Fibers that come from the stem of the plant

A

Bast

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73
Q

What are some examples of bast fibers?

A

Flax, Ramie, Hemp, and Jute

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74
Q

Describe flax.

A

Found in prehistoric dwellings in Switzerland and in ancient Egypt, “flax” is the fiber name but “linen” is the fabric made from flax fiber, has nodes, resembles bamboo, flexible

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75
Q

What fiber is the strongest of all plant fibers?

A

Flax

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76
Q

“China grass”; China is major producer, can be harvested more than once a year; similar to flax

A

Ramie

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77
Q

Describe jute.

A

Primary use is burlap bags, retains shape, is strong and inexpensive, strengthens seams on carpet backing and cording

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78
Q

Which fiber is becoming popular for its “green fiber” label in the apparel market?

A

Hemp

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79
Q

Describe hemp.

A

Widely available, grows quickly and requires little maintenance, and used for twine, rope, and cordage

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80
Q

Define protein fibers.

A

Resilient (resists crushing and wrinkling/maintains shape), hydroscopic (picks up moisture from air, but takes long time to dry), weaker when wet, harmed by alkali (perspiration, soap), harmed by oxidizing agents (chlorine bleach, sunlight, fibers will yellow if not treated, harmed by dry heat, and flame resistant

81
Q

What fiber is the standard for carpets? Is it the most widely used; why or why not?

A

Wool is the standard, but it is very expensive. Nylon makes up about 90% of all carpets and rugs.

82
Q

Describe wool.

A

Most important protein fiber, primarily comes from sheep, most widely used prior to the Industrial Revolution

83
Q

Wool is primarily retrieved from sheep. How many breeds of sheep are there? How many different types of wool are there?

A

40 breeds; 200 types

84
Q

Where will you find the best quality of wool on a sheep? The poorest?

A

Back, sides, and shoulders; legs

85
Q

What protein fiber is the only natural fiber with crimp? (Hint: It is also the best quality.)

A

Merino wool

86
Q

What is the by-product of wool?

A

Lanolin

87
Q

What are the 3 types of wool? Describe them.

A
  1. Virgin wool: wool that has never been processed.
  2. Wool: new wool or wool fibers that have been reclaimed from knit scrapes, broken thread, and short fibers.
  3. Recycled wool: scraps of new woven or felted fabrics that have been shredded back to fibrous state and reused.
88
Q

Of the 3 major types of wool, which is the most expensive? Least?

A

Virgin; recycled

89
Q

Fabrics that have shorter fibers, are uncomfortable

A

Woolen

90
Q

Fabrics that have longer fibers

A

Worsted

91
Q

What are a few qualities of wool?

A

Durable, moderate abrasion resistance, very flexible

92
Q

Is wool a good insulator? Why or why not?

A

Yes due to its crimp

93
Q

What % of all fibers consumed in the United States are wool?

A

1%

94
Q

Describe silk.

A

Natural protein fiber, produced by silkworms, not found in US (54% from China, 14% from India, and 11% from Japan), takes dye well, one of the strongest natural fibers but will lose 15% of strength when wet.

95
Q

Why is silk considered a universally luxury fiber?

A

It has a dry, tactile hand, natural luster, it is the only natural filament fiber, it has good moisture absorption, good drapabilty, and high strength.

96
Q

Production of silk

A

Sericulture

97
Q

How many yards of unbroken fiber can silk produce?

A

1,600 yards

98
Q

What are the 3 types of silk? Describe them.

A
  1. Wild silk: production not controlled, moths eat any leaves, produces wide variety of colors.
  2. Tussah silk: most common type, coarser, darker, and the color cannot be removed.
  3. Duppioni silk: when 2 silkworms spin their cocoons together.
99
Q

What fiber is the only natural filament fiber?

A

Silk

100
Q

What is silk used for?

A

Upholstery, wall-covering fabrics, wall hangings, high quality blankets, duvet covers, sheets made from silk

101
Q

What is the Micron system?

A

(Pending)

102
Q

Describe manufactured/synthetic fibers.

A

Heat sensitive (thermoplastic), resistant to most chemicals, resistant to moths, fungi, and rot, low moisture absorbency, oleophilic, electrostatic (holds onto static/low conductivity), abrasion resistant, strong, resilient, sunlight resistant, flame resistance, pilling

103
Q

Attraction to oily soil

A

Oleophilic

104
Q

What was the first manufactured fiber in the early 1910s? What was the second (1924)?

A

Rayon; acetate

105
Q

Which fiber was the first fully synthetic fiber (1938)?

A

Nylon

106
Q

Definitions that are recognized by the Federal Trade Commission.

A

Generic

107
Q

Enhanced generics

A
Subclasses
(Example: lyocell is subclass to rayon)
108
Q

Names or symbols used by a manufacturer to distinguish its fibers from other fibers of the same generic class

A

Fiber trademarks

109
Q

Synthetic fiber widely used for apparel, interiors, and industrial purposes

A

Rayon

110
Q

Synthetic fiber that is inexpensive, has excellent drape and hand, has poor wet strength, and is used for lining fabric, ribbons, lingerie, and cigarette filters

A

Acetate

111
Q

Synthetic fiber that is strong, has excellent color fastness, causes skin irritation, poor abrasion resistance, used for window treatments

A

Glass

112
Q

Second-most-used synthetic fiber (behind polyester), 25% worldwide consumption (for carpets and floorcoverings)

A

Nylon

113
Q

Describe the ideal nylon carpet.

A

Durable, resilient, and resistant to pilling, fading, traffic, abrasion, and soil and stains

114
Q

This synthetic fiber is used for fake furs, wigs, fleece, stuffed animals, children’s sleepwear, and upholstery and draperies.

A

Modacrylic

115
Q

Synthetic replacement for wool

A

Acrylic

116
Q

Describe acrylic.

A

Washable, less expensive, end uses are sweaters, blankets, carpeting, children’s apparel, and indoor/outdoor fabrics

117
Q

Describe HWM rayon.

A

Stronger wet strength and launderable

118
Q

The #1 synthetic used fiber

A

Polyester

119
Q

Describe polyester.

A

Wrinkle resistant, used for apparel, home furnishings, and industrial goods, has major problems with static, pilling, and stain removal

120
Q

Describe spandex.

A

Lightweight elastomeric fiber used to replace rubber, end uses include denim, undergarments, swimwear, and athletic apparel

121
Q

Describe olefin.

A

Superior wickability, used for running, cycling, diving, and surfing apparel, carpets, upholstery, and industrial uses

122
Q

Subclass of olefin

A

Lastol

123
Q

Describe lastol.

A

Excellent chemical resistance, lightweight, used for denim, intimate apparel, swimwear, and active apparel

124
Q

Subclass of polyester, stretch and recovery (denim, shirts, and socks)

A

Elasterell-p

125
Q

Describe microfibers.

A

Blends for added performance features or stand alone, widely used for apparel, upholstery, and industrial uses

126
Q

Improves fabric performance, water and oil repellency, antimicrobial properties, filtration, and moisture control for comfort

A

Nanotechnology

127
Q

What fiber is characterized by natural convolutions?

A

Cotton

128
Q

Which type of wool has the highest quality?

A

Merino

129
Q

T/F: Woolens have a higher quality than worsted.

A

False

130
Q

Uncultivated silk

A

Wild silk

131
Q

What is the #1 manufactured fiber?

A

Polyester (with the exception of nylon)

132
Q

Synthetic substitution for wool

A

Acrylic

133
Q

Vertical yarns

A

Warp

134
Q

Horizontal yarns

A

Filling

135
Q

Yarns parallel to the warp

A

Selvedge edge

136
Q

A direction not parallel to the warp (vertical) or filling (horizontal); off-grain

A

Bias

137
Q

Staple fibers make _______ yarns

A

Spun

138
Q

Filament fibers yield _______ yarns

A

Filament

139
Q

Describe staple fibers.

A

Short fiber lengths, fibers twisted or spun together

140
Q

Describe spun yarns.

A

Continuous strands of staple fibers held together using mechanical twist, protruding ends hold the fabric away from the skin, making it more comfortable

141
Q

Describe filament yarns.

A

Long, continuous fibers, do not require high twist (crepe is an exception), only includes manufactured fibers and silk

142
Q

1 filament

A

Monofilament

143
Q

More than 1 filament

A

Multifilament

144
Q

Made from micro fibers

A

Microfilament

145
Q

Yarns that have diameters finer than silk

A

Microfilament

146
Q

What are the differences between spun and filament yarns for: uniformity, smoothness and luster, strength, and pilling?

A
  1. Uniformity: filament
  2. Smoothness and luster: filament
  3. Strength: filament
  4. Pilling: spun
147
Q

TPI

A

Turns per inch

148
Q

How is cost affected by the number of yarn twists for performance?

A

The more twists, the more expensive

149
Q

T/F: Twist direction does not affect strength or abrasion resistance, but does affect surface appearance.

A

True

150
Q

Yarn twisting to the right

A

S

151
Q

Yarn twisting to the left

A

Z

152
Q

Which is stronger: S or Z twist?

A

Neither; twist does NOT affect strength

153
Q

What type of fiber has low or soft twist (about 2-12 tpi)?

A

Filament

154
Q

Which fiber has medium or high twist (13-25 tpi) that increases strength with more twists?

A

Spun

155
Q

Describe crepe twist.

A

40-80 tpi, “unbalanced yarns” or “lively yarns”, twist and kink when removed from fabric

156
Q

How is insulation affected by space between fibers?

A

The more space between fibers, the better the insulation.

157
Q

How is wind resistance affected by space between fibers?

A

The less space between fibers, the better the wind resistance.

158
Q

How does twist affect yarn strength?

A

The higher the twist, the stronger the yarn.

159
Q

Standard by which spun yarns are judged, long and expensive process

A

Ring or Conventional Spinning

160
Q

Describe ring-spun yarns.

A

Finer, better quality, fewer problems in fabrication

161
Q

What does carding do for fibers?

A

Partially aligns them, forming them into a thin web brought together by sliver

162
Q

Rope-like strand of fibers

A

Sliver

163
Q

Describe combed cotton.

A

More expensive, better durability/higher strength, and more even

164
Q

Yarn that is untwisted and pulls apart

A

Single yarn

165
Q

When untwisted, it separates into 2 or more fibers

A

Ply yarns

166
Q

Yarn when ply yarns are twisted together

A

Cord

167
Q

What are specialty yarns?

A

Textured, stretch, high bulk, novelty, chenille, and metallic

168
Q

What are the 3 types of methods for producing stretch textured yarn?

A
  1. False twist
  2. Knife edge
  3. Gear crimping
    (Note: All 3 involve heat setting the yarns to provide a permanent crimp.)
169
Q

When filaments are put into a heated box to produce sawtooth crimp of considerable bulk

A

Stuffer box

170
Q

Describe bulk yarns.

A

Low/minimal stretch, high bulk, fibers processed using hot water and steam to yield lofty, bulky, and soft yarns without stretch

171
Q

What is the air jet method?

A

When hot air forces filaments into tiny loops, slow and more expensive

172
Q

If a filament fiber becomes a staple fiber and then is spun, what type of yarn is it?

A

Spun

173
Q

Which is going to pill more: filament or spun yarn?

A

Spun

174
Q

Yarns that aren’t uniform thickness, have irregularities of knots, bumps, and curls

A

Novelty yarns

175
Q

What type of yarn will novelty yarns be: warp or filling?

A

Filling; will NEVER be introduced as warp yarn

176
Q

“Caterpillar yarn” that is fuzzy and made from cutting leno woolen fabrics, resembles pipe cleaners

A

Chenille

177
Q

Yarns using flat strips of filament metallic fibers, can be twisted or blended with another fiber such as nylon, mostly used for decorative purposes, expensive

A

Metallic yarns

178
Q

Measure unit weight and length (for thickness of fabric), impacted by amount of twist and density or size, called “The Denier System”

A

Yarn Numbering System

179
Q

Special yarns engineered and designed to pass through a sewing machine for stitching, may be spun, filament, or core spun

A

Sewing threads

180
Q

T/F: Spun yarns are made from filament fibers.

A

False

181
Q

T/F: Filament yarns are manufactured, and spun yarns are natural and manufactured fibers.

A

True

182
Q

T/F: Crepe twist is the highest twist yarn.

A

True

183
Q

T/F: The Z twist is stronger than the S twist.

A

False

184
Q

Which is more expensive: card or combed?

A

Combed: takes longer, raises price

185
Q

T/F: Spun yarns are the most comfortable.

A

True

186
Q

T/F: Textured yarns are created using natural fibers with an inherent crimp.

A

False (only wool)

187
Q

What fibers are used to make high bulk yarns?

A

Acrylic

188
Q

T/F: The Denier System is based on weight and length.

A

True

189
Q

Warp yarns run _______

A

Vertically

190
Q

T/F: The selvedge edge is parallel to filling yarns.

A

False

191
Q

T/F: Filament yarns require a high tpi.

A

False

192
Q

T/F: Spun yarns have 20-25 tpi.

A

True

193
Q

T/F: Less space between fibers is going to produce better insulation.

A

True

194
Q

T/F: Ring spun yarns are finer and have better quality.

A

True

195
Q

T/F: Worsted wools are combed.

A

True

196
Q

T/F: The best way to identify ply yarn is to pull it apart into fibers when untwisted.

A

False

197
Q

2 or more ply yarns twisted together

A

Cord

198
Q

What are the three groupings of the textile industry?

A
  1. Apparel goods
  2. Interior furnishings
  3. Industrial