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Textiles > Exam 2 > Flashcards

Exam 2 Flashcards

1
Q

Raising 1 or more harnesses to separate warp yarns and form a shed

A

Shedding

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2
Q

Passing the shuttle through the shed to insert the filling yarns

A

Picking

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3
Q

Pushing the filling yarn into place in the fabric with the reed

A

Beating up

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4
Q

Winding finished fabric onto the fabric beam

A

Take-up

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5
Q

What is the air-jet loom?

A

Filling yarn is guided through a nozzle, a narrow jet of air sends it through the shed
Spun filling yarn, not too bulky
More picks per minute than water-jet, same as rapier loom

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6
Q

What is the water-jet loom?

A

A high pressure jet of water carries the filling yarn across the warp
Nylon and polyester filament
Less picks per minute than rapier and air-jet

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7
Q

What is the rapier loom?

A

Weaves spun yarns

1000 picks/minute, like air-jet

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8
Q

What are the characteristics of woven fabrics?

A

Warp and filling yarns have different demands
Warp yarns are stronger, have less give, are smaller, have a higher twist, and are higher in count
Fancy yarns are usually in the filling yarn, and have a lower thread count

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9
Q

Geometry of position of warp yarns relative to filling yarns

A

Grain

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10
Q

What is off-grain?

A

Fabric quality is lower
Printed designs are NOT straight
Fabrics drape better when they’re cut on the bias

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11
Q

What are two types of off-grain?

A

Skew - filling yarns are at an angle other than ninety degrees
Bow - filling yarns curve or dip below the warp yarns instead of being at right angles

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12
Q

What are greige goods?

A

Fabric as it comes off the loom that hasn’t been dyed, printed, or finished

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13
Q

What is fabric count/fabric density?

A

The number of warp or filling yarns per square inch
Count may increase due to shrinkage during dyeing and finishing
Count written as warp first, then filling
Higher count = higher quality

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14
Q

What is balance?

A

The ratio of warp to filling yarns

Helpful in recognizing and naming fabrics

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15
Q

What is a selvage?

A

A length-wise (vertical) self-edge of a fabric
Formed when filling yarns turn to back across fabric, on conventional (shuttle) looms
Shuttleless looms form different types of selvages

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16
Q

What is fabric weight?

A

How much a fabric weighs for a given area of length

Lightweight - 4oz or less
Medium - 4oz-6oz
Heavy - more than 6oz

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17
Q

What are the 3 basic woven structures/fabrications?

A
  1. Plain Weave
    i. Rib Weave
    ii. Basket Weave
  2. Twill Weave
  3. Satin Weave
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18
Q

What are plain weaves?

A

The simplest and least expensive way to produce a woven fabric
Balanced or unbalanced
Most widely use woven, made in any fabric

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19
Q

Do plain weaves have a technical front and back?

A

No, unless printed

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20
Q

What are the 3 primary methods for producing fabric?

A

Weaving, knitting, and fiber webbing

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22
Q

Compare Georgette and Chiffon.

A

Both drape well
Originally made of silk, now mostly synthetic
Filament yarns

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23
Q

Chiffon

A

Lightweight, sheer fabric
Smaller yarns, hard twist
Made with filament yarns

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24
Q

Voile

A

Sheer fabric
Hard/voile twist
Spun yarn
More expensive, extra step: originally made from combed or worsted yarns

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25
Q

Organdy

A

Sheerest cotton cloth
Always 100% cotton
Crisp hand, prone to wrinkling

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26
Q

Organza

A

Filament counterpart to organdy

Good body, crisp hand

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27
Q

What are examples of thin, lightweight opaque fabrics?

A

Batiste and Calico

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28
Q

Batiste

A

Softest of all lightweight, opaque fabrics
Cotton, wool, polyester blends
Smooth, soft

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29
Q

Calico

A

Always printed, country kitchen

Traditionally cotton

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30
Q

Chintz

A

Medium-to-heavyweight spun yarn

Often finished with glaze

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31
Q

Muslin

A

Any plain, woven, balanced fabric of carded yarns

Bleached, unbleached, printed, or dyed

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32
Q

Flanelette

A

Balanced and unbalanced
Slightly napped on one side
Medium and heavy weight
Often called ‘flannel”

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33
Q

What’s more expensive: printing or dyeing?

A

Dyeing

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34
Q

Gingham

A

Yarn-dyed
Cotton, cotton blends
Imitations are printed

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35
Q

What are heavyweight, plain woven fabrics?

A

“Bottom” or “suiting” weight
More durable and wrinkle resistant
Weigh more than 6oz per yard sqrd.

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36
Q

What are examples of heavyweight, plain fabrics?

A

Osnaburg, Tweed, and Crepe

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37
Q

Osnaburg

A

Variable weighted
Bits of leaf and bark from cotton plant
Utility fabric

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38
Q

Tweed

A

Any fiber or blend characterized by novelty yarns with nubs of different colors
Suits, overcoats -> yarns are fiber-dyed

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40
Q

What is an example of a ribbed plain weave? Explain.

A

Bengaline; warp yarns are spun and filling yarns are filament, horizontal yarns are thicker, more noticeable, form direction

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41
Q

What are examples of basket weaves?

A

Dimity, Oxford, Chambray, and Duck

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42
Q

What is the sturdiest woven structure?

A

Twill weaves

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43
Q

Describe the “float” of the warp and filling yarns of Twill Weaves.

A

Each warp or filling yarn floats across 2 or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of interlacing by 1 to the left or 1 to the right (appears to go up and to the left, for example)
Fractions 2/1 (would be read “2 up, 1 down”)

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44
Q

A portion of a yarn that crosses over 2 or more yarns from the opposite direction

A

Float

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45
Q

What are characteristics of twill weaves?

A

Have the most pronounced wale line

Printed twills are less common

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46
Q

Georgette

A

Lightweight, sheer
Direction of crepe twist for warp and filling alternatives, smoother and more lustrous than chiffon
Made with filament yarns

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47
Q

What are examples of lightweight, sheer fabrics?

A

Georgette, Chiffon, Voile, Organdy, and Organza

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49
Q

Crepe

A

Yarns in either warp or filling of both known as true crepe

Any weight - most often medium or heavy weight

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50
Q

What is important about the twill weave Serge?

A

It is reversible

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51
Q

What are the characteristics of the twill weave Herringbone?

A

“Reversed broken” wale line

Resembles fish

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52
Q

What are the characteristics of the twill weave Houndstooth?

A

8-point pattern

Color and weave effect

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53
Q

What are warp-faced twills?

A

More warp yarns on the face

Stronger, better abrasion resistance, resists pilling

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54
Q

What are examples of warp-faced twills?

A

Chino

Ticking

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55
Q

What are characteristics of Satin weaves?

A

Technical back may look like twill
Lustrous
Each warp floats over 4 filling yarns and interlaces with the 5th

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56
Q

What are examples of Satin weaves?

A

Crepe-back Satin
Antique Satin
Sateen (Filling Sateen)

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57
Q

What are the differences between Satin and Sateen?

A

Sateen - cotton, can be washed, more durable

Satin - silk, can’t be washed

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58
Q

W-pile

A

Interlaces with more filling yarns

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59
Q

V-pile

A

Interlaces with fewer yarns

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60
Q

What are examples of pile fabrics?

A

Velvet
Velour
Terrycloth

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61
Q

What is the Double-Cloth Method?

A
  1. Two fabrics are woven, one above the other.

2. The fabrics are cut apart while still on the loom.

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62
Q

Describe velvet.

A
  • made from filament yarns

- technical front and back

63
Q

Describe Velour.

A

Warp pile cotton fabric (staple)

Deeper pile/heavier than velveteen

64
Q

What is the over-wire method?

A

A single cloth is woven with wires placed across the width of the loom, positioned above ground warp and under pile warp

65
Q

Describe Terrycloth.

A

Each loop acts as a tiny sponge

66
Q

What are characteristics of fancy weaves and fabrics?

A

Made by changing the interlacing pattern between the design area and background
Requires modifications to the basic loom or a more complicated loom

67
Q

Contains simple, geometric forms and motifs

A

Dobby Pattern

68
Q

Produced detailed and intricate patterns

A

Jacquard pattern

69
Q

Patterns are created using an extra set of warp or filling yarns

A

Clip spots

70
Q

Manipulates colored yarns and weaves

A

Color and weave effect

71
Q

What are examples of fancy weaves and fabrics?

A

Matelasse
Leno weave
Transportation upholstery

72
Q

Describe Matelasse.

A

Double cloth construction made with 3 or 4 sets of yarns.

2 sets are regular warp/filling, others are crepe or coarse cotton yarns

73
Q

Describe Leno weave.

A

Warp yarns are not parallel, work in pairs of 2

1 yarn crossed over the other before filling yarn is inserted

74
Q

Describe Transportation Upholstery.

A

Durable

75
Q

Describe knitted fabrics.

A

The formation of fabrics by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns.

  • faster than weaving, but increased cost of yarn offsets any savings
  • not as old a technique as weaving
  • 5% shrinkage (only 2% for wovens)
  • good appearance retention
  • snagging = major problem
  • 1+ yarns formed into interlooping loops
  • faster than weaving
76
Q

Which is generally heavier: knitted or woven fabrics?

A

Knitted

77
Q

What is gauge or cut?

A

Indicates the fineness of the stitch

Expressed as “needles per inch” (npi) (the higher the number, the finer the stitch)

78
Q

What are the 2 categories of knits?

A
  1. Filling or Weft knits

2. Warp knits

79
Q

What is the difference between velvet and velveteen?

A

Velvet (always made from filament yarns)

Velveteen (always made from 100% cotton)

80
Q

What fabric is the flattest of all the Jacquard wovens?

A

Damask

81
Q

Describe nonwoven fabrics.

A

Web of fibers

Produced by bonding or interlocking fibers via a mechanical, chemical, thermal, or solvent

82
Q

What is the oldest example of nonwoven fabrics?

A

Handi-wipes (1950s)

83
Q

Describe the production of nonwoven fabrics.

A
  • faster than knitting or weaving
  • wide weight range (15 grams-1 meter)
  • versatility
  • low cost
84
Q

What is the difference between durable and disposable nonwoven fabrics?

A

Durable: can be used repeatedly (carpet backings)
Disposable: made with the intention of being thrown away after a single or number of uses (diapers, surgical gowns)

85
Q

What are the 3 methods for producing nonwovens?

A
  1. Drylaid: most widely used, least expensive
  2. Wetlaid: least used, extra step
  3. Spunlaid: mechanical, chemical/adhesive, or fusing/thermal, thermoplastic
86
Q

Describe carded-web nonwovens.

A
  • first
  • largest volume
  • use most of any staple fiber (drylaid or wetlaid)
  • disposable items (cook’s hats, bed sheets)
87
Q

Describe spunbonded nonwovens.

A
  • filament spun into web
  • interlocked using thermal, entanglement, or adhesive bonding
  • strong
  • variety of weights
88
Q

Describe spunlaced nonwovens.

A
  • formed by wetlaid staple fibers using high pressure
  • knot and curl around each other
  • no binding is used yielding an end product that is soft, bulky, and disposable
  • robes, mattress pads, quilts, mops
89
Q

Describe melt-blown nonwovens.

A
  • spunlaid micro-denier sized filament that breaks into staple fiber
  • insulation properties
  • low fiber strength and low abrasion resistance
  • thinsulate
90
Q

Describe needle-punched nonwovens.

A
  • “mechanical felt” and “needle-punched felt”
  • made from staple fiber
  • drylaid, entangled to form a web
  • web passes through barbed or hooked needles which further entangles the web
91
Q

Describe nonwoven wipes.

A
  • wet, dry, or coated
  • Rayon, Polyester, and Polypropylene
  • stiffer pairs, Clorox disinfecting wipes
92
Q

Felt

A
  • oldest known textile
  • 50-100% wool (blended only with cotton or rayon)
  • arranged in layers of thin webs
  • webs are moistened and then passed through heated rollers
  • fabric shrunk to as much as 50%
  • can be as thin as 1/32 inch or 3 inches
93
Q

Quilted material

A
  • insulating filler secured between two layers of fabric
  • layers held together by sewing or bonding
  • filler may be polyester, fiberfill, batting, polyurethane foam or down
  • coats, robes, quilts, ,actress pads, sleeping bags
94
Q

Stitch bonding

A

Needles and threads are used to sew or stitch yarns and fibers together into a fabric by creating a web
-Malimo fabrics

95
Q

Films

A

Made directly from a polymer solution by casting solution on a hot drum
Imitation leather

96
Q

Lace fabrics

A
  • decorative design created with threads or yarns on a netlike, open background
  • most complicated
  • produced in all widths
  • handmade or machine lace
97
Q

Handmade lace

A
  • low quality, high in price
  • work, skill, and time intensive
  • France, Belgium, Italy, Ireland (expensive)
98
Q

What are the 4 types of handmade lace?

A
  1. Bobbin or pillow lace
  2. Crocheted lace
  3. Battenburg lace
  4. Tatted lace
99
Q

Bobbin or pillow lace

A

Pattern drawn on paper, pins are inserted at various points

Yarns on bobbins wrapped around pins

100
Q

Crocheted lace

A

By hand with a crochet needles

Brought to America by Irish immigrants

101
Q

Tatted lace

A
  • small shuttle

- small, tight design

102
Q

Machine-made lace

A
  • Leavers machines produce finest, most intricate design (more expensive)
  • Nottingham machine produces heavier, rougher textured idea
  • Leavers lace made on machine, very expensive
103
Q

Embroidery

A
  • creating/producing raised design on woven fabrics, paper, plastic, and rarely on knits
  • practically all done on machine (Schiffli machine)
  • lightweight fabrics
  • Eyelet
  • always done on piece of fabric, lace is stand-alone
104
Q

Tufted fabrics

A
  • pile fabric
  • inserting extra yarns into already-woven fabric
  • cut or looped
  • heavier fabrics (carpets, upholstery, blankets)
  • tufted pile
  • tufting done using series of needles
  • cut or uncut loops
  • inexpensive, fast
105
Q

Which fabric is created the fastest: nonwovens, knitted, or woven?

A

Nonwovens

106
Q

What are the 2 categories of nonwovens?

A
  1. Durable

2. Disposable

107
Q

What were the first nonwovens created?

A

Carded web nonwovens

108
Q

What type of woven is Tyvek?

A

Spunbonded

109
Q

What is the oldest known textile?

A

Felt

110
Q

What is “true felt”?

A

The fabric is 100% wool of at least 50% blended with only cotton or rayon.

111
Q

Permanence of color

A

Colorfastness

112
Q

What are the factors that affect colorfastness?

A

Sunlight
Moisture
Gas
Abrasion

113
Q

What are 3 ways to impart color?

A
  1. Conventional dyeing
  2. Pigment application
  3. Solution dyeing
114
Q

Conventional dyeing

A
  • use of dye stuffs (chemical or organic) and water
  • “aqueous dyeing”
  • fiber dyed all the way through
  • most widely used
115
Q

What is the process of conventional dyeing?

A
  • mix water, dye, and textile material
  • step can take minutes-hours depending on fiber
  • dye bath is heated to boiling point and agitated to ensure uniformity
  • scouted and rinsed until water is clear, prevents crocking
116
Q

Crocking

A

Color rubbing off (mostly onto other clothes)

117
Q

Depth of Shade

A
  • the darkness or lightness of color
  • depending on the ratio of dye to fiber, yarn, fabric, or garment
  • darker colors are more expensive because more due is required, causing it to take longer
118
Q

Dye classes

A
  • thousands of dyestuffs (chemical and organic in nature)
  • protein, cellulose, and synthetic fibers take dyes differently
  • affinity: dye combines adequately with fiber
119
Q

Color matching

A

Textile dyer and chemist to match a designer color with the proper dye that will meet the colorfastness requirements
Color match formulas developed for lab dip

120
Q

Lap dip

A

Determines color standard

121
Q

Dye lots

A

May differ in shade

122
Q

Color Management Systems

A

Computerized systems widely used for color and shade matching

123
Q

Spectrophotometer

A

Software component that reads and scans colors to make matches

124
Q

Metamerism

A

“Color flare”

When colors appear the same under one light, but took different under another one

125
Q

What are the names for dyeing that is done in each/any stage?

A
  • stock/top dyeing: dye fiber before it is spun
  • yarn dyeing: dye yarns before weaving/knitting
  • piece dyeing: dye a woven or knitted
  • garment dyeing: dyeing a completed garment
126
Q

What are the 3 types of specialty dyeing?

A
  1. Cross dyeing
  2. Union dyeing
  3. Tone on tone effects
127
Q

Cross dyeing

A
  • produced when fabric/garment made from 2 or more different fibers having different dye affinities
  • process may be used to produce stripes and plaids
  • quick and economical
128
Q

Union dyeing

A
  • same as cross dyeing except, instead of a multicolor results, only one solid color is produced
  • 2 or more dues in the dye bath
  • 2 different fibers, one color
129
Q

Tone-on-tone effects

A

Create light and dark shades of the same color in a fabric containing only 1 generic fiber
Uses one dye, creates shades and tints

130
Q

Solution dyeing

A

Used for hydrophobic and heat sensitive fibers

Fade proof under all conditions

131
Q

What are the different types of imperfections?

A
  • barre
  • color crocking
  • color bleeding
  • off shade
  • shade bar
  • stained, streaked, or colorspots
  • tender spots: weakened spot
  • uneven shade
132
Q

Barre

A

A horizontal band of off-shaded yarns extending across fabric

133
Q

Color crocking

A

Color in a dyed fabric that rubs off rather easily onto other fabric surfaces

134
Q

Color bleeding

A

Loss of color from a dyed fabric when immersed in a liquid

135
Q

Off shade

A

Color of the dyed fabric does not match the standard

136
Q

Shade bar

A

Shade change in a fabric that appears as a horizontal selvage-to-selvage change

137
Q

Stained, streaked, or color spots

A

Discolored area on the cloth

138
Q

Tender spots

A

Places in the fabric that have been excessively weakened

139
Q

Uneven shade

A

Differences in the shade of a fabric from edge to edge

140
Q

Which fabric is the only reversible twill weave?

A

Serge

141
Q

What fabric is a reversed broken twill that looks like a fishbone?

A

Herringbone suiting

142
Q

Which twill weave has a double wale line, and is the sturdiest of all the warp-faced twills?

A

Calvary twill

143
Q

Which warp-faced Satin has a technical face and back?

A

Satin

144
Q

What fabric is the flattest of all Jacquard wovens?

A

Damask

145
Q

What fabric is made with filament and novelty metallic yarns?

A

Brocade

146
Q

What fabric has a double cloth with a space/gap in the middle?

A

Pocket cloth

147
Q

What fabric has a misstitch/what does it look like?

A

Jacquard Jersey Knit Stitch

Horizontal, striped, stitching, ugly, far different than patterned front

148
Q

Which double filling knit fabric is napped and brushed?

A

Jacquard Double Knit

149
Q

Which fabric has visible, horizontal courses?

A

Purl Knit

150
Q

Which fabric is the bane of all of existence?

A

Silver-pile knit

Textiles (3 decks)

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