Exam 1 Flashcards

1
Q

Characteristics of a product or service that bear its ability to satisfy stated or implied needs; a product or service free of deficiencies

A

Quality

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2
Q

What are the three approaches to quality?

A

Product-defined (physical features), manufacturer-defined (meeting specifications), and user-defined (consumer needs and wants)

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3
Q

Five elements of quality

A
Performance
Durability
Serviceability
Conformance
Aesthetics
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4
Q

What are intrinsic quality cues?

A

Quality cues that come from the product itself; aesthetic and functional

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5
Q

What are extrinsic quality cues?

A

External influences such as brand image

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6
Q

What are the price classifications?

A
Budget
Moderate
Better
Bridge
Designer
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7
Q

Equation for value

A

Quality + Price = Value

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8
Q

Equation for cost per wear

A

Purchase $ ÷ amount of times worn = cost per wear

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9
Q

Management and control of development and manufacturing of apparel to ensure product quality and compliance with safety regulations

A

Quality assurance

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10
Q

Ensuring standards are maintained through testing at different stages of production, frequent inspections, and proper use of equipment and established procedures

A

Quality control

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11
Q

Two types of standards for apparel performance

A

Mandatory/regulatory or voluntary

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12
Q

Established requirements for determining if a material or product satisfies quality standards at the national and international levels

A

Specifications

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13
Q

Checking whether materials, products, processes and systems personnel meet requirements of standards, regulations, or other specifications

A

Conformity assessment

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14
Q

When materials or apparel products conform to standards and specifications to meet consumer expectations that lead to satisfaction

A

Compliance

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15
Q

TC38 committee

A

ISO committee for textiles

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16
Q

Which testing standards will we use in class?

A

ASTM International

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17
Q

American body of textile experts

A

AATCC

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18
Q

TAG

A

Represents US in TC38 committee

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19
Q

American voluntary standards group

A

ANSI

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20
Q

British voluntary standards group

A

BSI

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21
Q

National Standards Body

A

Represents UK in TC38 committee

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22
Q

European voluntary standards group

A

CEN

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23
Q

Chinese voluntary and mandatory standards group

A

CNIS

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24
Q

Canadian voluntary standards group

A

SCC

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25
Q

NSS

A

Represents Canada in TC38 committee

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26
Q

Association of the nonwoven fabrics industry

A

INDA

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27
Q

CPSC

A

Consumer Products Safety Commission

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28
Q

DOD

A

Department of Defense

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29
Q

Why test products?

A

Assess product performance, research and discovery, control quality, comparative testing, analyze product failure, government regulations

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30
Q

What aesthetic and performance characteristics would a consumer expect from x? List desirable and undesirable characteristics of fabric used for x.

A

ANSWER

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31
Q

List aesthetics and design development details

A

Color, texture, pattern, proportion, balance, emphasis, rhythm, harmony, silhouette, line

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32
Q

Resource for chemical formulations for dyes and pigments

A

Colour Index International

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33
Q

Lab dips used to evaluate and ensure consistent color

A

Color match

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34
Q

When colors match under certain lighting conditions and not others

A

Metamerism

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35
Q

Unified pleasing aesthetic where all elements work together

A

Harmony

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36
Q

Outline or overall shape of a garment

A

Silhouette

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37
Q

Relationship between the body, size, and styling of a garment

A

Fit

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38
Q

What makes a garment fit the body?

A

Ease; fabric grain; darts and seams; gathers, pleats and tucks; full fashioned and knit-and-wear

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39
Q

Appropriate amount of fullness added to a garment to allow for adequate body movement

A

Functional/wearing ease

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40
Q

Take up excess fabric in areas where the garment needs to be shaped around body contours

A

Darts

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41
Q

Formed by sewing two or more plies of fabric together to conform to a desired style

A

Seam

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42
Q

Remove excess fabric to improve fit at the bust, elbow, hip, neck, shoulder, and waist areas

A

Straight darts

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43
Q

Curve towards the body to fit the midriff area from bustline to waist

A

Concave darts

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44
Q

Contour around areas of the body that curve outward such as the abdomen, bust and hips

A

Convex darts

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45
Q

Extend from the bust to the hip and can be straight, concave or convex

A

Double-ended darts

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46
Q

Add fullness to a garment to provide a less structured way to fit

A

Gathers

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47
Q

Controls predetermined fullness that is gathered and released to correspond to a parallel seam in a repeating pattern

A

Ruching

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48
Q

Fit contours of the body by folding the fabric back on itself along the grainline

A

Pleats

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49
Q

Fit contours of the body by folding the fabric back on itself along the grainline then stitched down completely or to a designated length

A

Tucks

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50
Q

2D pre-shaped garment pieces emerge from knitting machine ready to be assembled. Minimum stitching is required

A

Full-fashioned

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51
Q

3D pre-shaped garments are knitted to fit the shape of the body and do not require additional stitching for assembly

A

Knit-and-wear

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52
Q

Finish the edges of garment openings and control fit when edge is cut on bias

A

Facings

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53
Q

Allow for ease of dressing and provide a finish to the opening of a garment

A

Plackets

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54
Q

Three types of buttons

A

Sew-through, shank, tack

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55
Q

The entire population under study

A

Universe

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56
Q

What is the universe for the comparison project?

A

All of the garments

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57
Q

A portion of the universe taken for testing

A

Sample

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58
Q

What is the sample for the comparison project?

A

Each individual garment

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59
Q

A specific portion of a sample where a test is performed

A

Specimen

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60
Q

One yard of fabric taken from a lot sample

A

Lab sample

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61
Q

How do you identify the warp direction?

A

There are more yarns per inch in the warp direction, yarns are finer and have higher twist

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62
Q

In which direction does the warp typically run in garments?

A

Vertically

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63
Q

What is the standard atmosphere for testing?

A

70°F +/-2, 21°C +/-1; 65% +/-2 humidity

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64
Q

Equation to convert celsius to fahrenheit

A

1.8 x °C + 32 = °F

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65
Q

Why condition textiles prior to testing?

A

To obtain reproducible results for reliable comparisons

66
Q

What is the order of conditioning times by fiber for specimens?

A

Animal and viscose; natural cellulose; acetate; other manufactured fibers

67
Q

Fibers, yarns, and unfinished fabrics created by mills

A

Raw materials

68
Q

What are the three fiber forms?

A

Staple, filament, and tow

69
Q

Tow

A

Filament cut into staple lengths

70
Q

How do you identify a fiber?

A

Burning, microscopic observation, and solubility

71
Q

Made from one continuous filament or by twisting staple fibers together to form a spun yarn

A

Singles

72
Q

Consist of two or more yarns twisted, wrapped, entangled or chemically bonded together

A

Ply

73
Q

The higher the twist of a yarn (TPI)…

A

Increases abrasion resistance, smoother appearance and more lustrous surface

74
Q

Method for measuring a yarn’s fineness

A

Yarn number

75
Q

Define direct yarn number systems

A

Used for measuring filament yarns made from manufactured fiber or silk

76
Q

Direct yarn number systems: Finer the yarn…/Thicker the yarn…

A

Lower the number/higher the number

77
Q

Define indirect yarn number systems

A

Used for measuring the length per unit mass/weight of spun yarn made from staple fibers

78
Q

Indirect yarn number systems: Finer the yarn…/Thicker the yarn…

A

Higher the number/lower the number

79
Q

Short for denier

A

den

80
Q

Short for tex

A

tex

81
Q

Short for decitex

A

dtex

82
Q

Short for kilotex

A

ktex

83
Q

Short for cotton

A

Ne(c)

84
Q

Linen lea

A

lea

85
Q

Metric count

A

Nm

86
Q

Woolen run

A

Nw(e)

87
Q

Worsted count

A

Nw(w)

88
Q

Reporting yarn construction: single spun yarns

A

Yarn # + Name of system + Twist Direction + # TPI

89
Q

Yarn number of 24, reported using cotton count, Z-twist, 15 turns per inch

A

24 Ne(c) Z 15tpi

90
Q

Reporting yarn construction: single filament yarns

A

Yarn # + Name of system + # of filaments in the yarn + Twist direction + #TPI

91
Q

Yarn number of 100, reported using denier count, comprised of 34 filaments with S-twist, 2.5 turns per inch

A

100 den f34 S 2.5tpi

92
Q

Yarn number of 100, reported using denier count, comprised of 34 filaments with S-twist, ZERO turns per inch

A

100 den f34 S t0

93
Q

Reporting yarn construction: plied direct yarn number system, same components

A

(Yarn # + Name of system + Twist Direction + #TPI) X (Number of single yarns + Ply twist direction + #TPI)

94
Q

Reporting yarn construction: plied indirect yarn number system, same components

A

(Yarn # + Name of system + Twist Direction + #TPI) / (Number of single yarns + Ply twist direction + #TPI)

95
Q

Cotton spun two-ply yarn, reported in single-to-ply notation, yarn number of 24, reported using cotton count, Z-twist, 15 turns per inch, ply contains 2 identical single yarns having S-twist and twisted with 9 turns per inch

A

24 Ne(c) Z 15tpi/2 S 9tpi

96
Q

Reporting yarn construction: plied yarns with different components

A

{(Yarn # + Name of system + Twist Direction + #TPI + (full name of system)) + (Yarn # + Name of system + Twist Direction + #TPI + (full name of system))} + Overall twist direction + #TPI

97
Q

Two ply yarn reported using cotton count yarn number of 1st yarn is 24, and the yarn number of the 2nd yarn is 10. 1st cotton yarn Z-twist, 15 turns per inch. 2nd cotton yarn Z-twist, 23 turns per inch. Overall yarn S-twist, 8 turns per inch.

A

{24 Ne(c) Z 15tpi (cotton) + 10 c.c. Z 23 tpi (cotton)} S 8tpi

98
Q

Structure of material

A

Fabric construction

99
Q

Determined by counting number of threads per one inch

A

Fabric count

100
Q

What does fabric count indicate?

A

Density of the material, quality, cost

101
Q

When the sample is unraveled and each yarn within the area of fabric is removed and counted

A

Deconstructive fabric count testing

102
Q

Dimension between the top/face and bottom/back surfaces of a material

A

Fabric thickness

103
Q

Mass per unit area of a length of material

A

Fabric weight

104
Q

Complex water soluble molecules that are absorbed into the fiber and do not require a mordant

A

Dyes

105
Q

Two components of dyes

A

Chromophore and auxochrome

106
Q

The color portion of a dye

A

Chromophore

107
Q

Provides solubility and bonding capabilities

A

Auxochrome

108
Q

Not water soluble; requires bonding agents to adhere color to fiber surface

A

Pigments

109
Q

Pigment is added to the liquid solution prior to extrusion to form fibers

A

Dope dyeing

110
Q

Applied to fabrics to change their properties in an effort to produce a desired effect for the end product

A

Textile finishes

111
Q

Change the physical appearance of the fabric; applied by physical means

A

Dry finishes/aesthetic finishes

112
Q

Change the physical performance characteristics of the fabric; application of chemicals in the form of liquid or foam that must be dried and cured

A

Wet finishes/functional finishes

113
Q

Permanent finishes

A

Calendaring, fulling, mercerizing, napping & sueding, plisse, shearing, stiffening (when acid is used), washing, waterproofing

114
Q

Durable finishes

A

Antimicrobial, antiseptic, antibacterial, calendaring (glazing), durable press (wrinkle-free), flame-resistance, insect control, soil release, stain & water repellants

115
Q

Semi-durable finishes

A

Antistatic (treated fiber), crease-resistant, flame-resistant, softening

116
Q

Separate plies of fabrics that reinforce portions of the garment and help create the shape of some silhouettes

A

Support materials

117
Q

Provide structure support

A

Shaping devices

118
Q

Attached to the surface or inserted into a seam to enhance appearance and quality; decorative linear materials

A

Trim

119
Q

Any process used to remove soil and stains and to restore the appearance of textile items

A

Refurbishing

120
Q

Equation for dimensional change

A

(Dimension after cleaning - Original dimension)/Original dimension x100

121
Q

Original dimension: 18”
Dimension after cleaning: 20”
Calculate dimensional change

A

10% shrinkage

122
Q

The ability of a material to resist degradation of its properties when exposed to climatic conditions

A

Wrinkle resistance

123
Q

The fabric property which enables it to recover from folding or deformations

A

Wrinkle recovery

124
Q

Fibers with poor wrinkle recovery

A

Cotton, linen, rayon

125
Q

Fibers with average wrinkle recovery

A

Nylon, polyester

126
Q

Fibers with good wrinkle recovery

A

Wool, acrylic

127
Q

Finishes that help reduce wrinkling and aid in recovery

A

Crease resistant, permanent press, durable press, wrinkle free

128
Q

A fabric’s resistance to change any of its color characteristics when exposed to environmental conditions during its lifetime

A

Colorfastness

129
Q

Tools used for color and colorfastness

A

Gray scales, chromatic transference scales, colorimeters and spectrophotometers

130
Q

Loss or change in color

A

Color change

131
Q

Transfer of color or staining

A

Color staining

132
Q

Under which lamp must color evaluation take place?

A

North Sky light or Daylight lamps

133
Q

Colorfastness tests

A

Laundering & dry cleaning, perspiration, water, light, atmospheric gas, crocking

134
Q

Maximum resistance of a material to elongate and break or rupture

A

Tensile strength

135
Q

Amount of pounds of pulling force exerted on the specimen

A

Load

136
Q

Amount of pounds of pulling force needed to break the yarns in a specimen

A

Breaking load

137
Q

Six types of tensile tests

A

Breaking strength, tearing strength, modulus, bursting strength, seam strength, seam slippage

138
Q

Force in pounds required to break many warp or filling yarns at once

A

Breaking strength

139
Q

Force in pounds required to break one or a few warp or filling yarns at a time

A

Tearing strength

140
Q

The resistance of a material to applied (stretching) force; amount of elongation and recovery a fabric can withstand without permanent damage or deformation to the fabric

A

Modulus

141
Q

The force in pounds required to rupture the specimen

A

Bursting strength

142
Q

The amount of pressure in pounds of force needed to rupture the seam stitching, by pulling yarns at the seam and/or by yarns pulling out of the seams

A

Seam strength

143
Q

When yarns pull away from the seam stitching causing a gap parallel to the seam

A

Seam slippage

144
Q

Tensile strength tests that use the Instron machine

A

Each of the six tests

145
Q

The wearing away of any part of a material by rubbing against another surface

A

Abrasion

146
Q

Three forms of abrasion

A

Flat abrasion, flex abrasion, edge abrasion

147
Q

Two flat surfaces rub against each other

A

Flat abrasion

148
Q

A material is bent and straightened, folded and unfolded

A

Flex abrasion

149
Q

Occurs at the edge of fabrics/garments

A

Edge abrasion

150
Q

Fabric properties affecting abrasion resistance

A

Fiber content: Manufactured fibers resist abrasion and wear
Fabric count: Higher the count the greater resistance to abrasion
Yarn size/fabric thickness: Bigger the yarns the greater the resistance to abrasion
Yarn twist: Higher the twist the greater the resistance to abrasion
Yarn crimp: Lower the crimp the greater resistance to abrasion
Float length: Smaller the float the greater resistance to abrasion

151
Q

Color rub off from excess dye on surface

A

Crocking

152
Q

Change in color due to abrasion (powdery white effect on darker fabrics)

A

Frosting

153
Q

Little balls of entangled fibers clinging to surface

A

Pilling

154
Q

A yarn or part of a yarn pulled from the surface

A

Snagging

155
Q

Yarns shift position/yarn slippage

A

Yarn distortion

156
Q

Fabric properties affected by tensile strength

A

Yarn type, yarn size, yarn twist, fabric count, fabric construction, seam construction

157
Q

Most aesthetically pleasing divisions; dividing or sectioning of line into extreme and mean ratio

A

Golden ratio/divine proportion

158
Q

Creates visual intrest; focal point

A

Rule of Thirds

159
Q

Rules for taking specimens

A

1: Follow test method for number of specimens to cut and how to prepare them
2: Cut no specimen closer to the selvage than 10% of the fabric width
3: Cut specimens for the same test from different areas of the sample
4: Mark and cut specimens accurately, exactly and on-grain
5: Identify the warp direction of each specimen
6: Keep identifying marks on specimen small and away from critical test areas
7: Do not take specimens containing seams, buttons, button holes, or attached decorative elements unless the specified element is to be tested

160
Q

The length of one yard by x amount

A

Linear yard

161
Q

One yard x one yard

A

Square yard