Exam 1 Flashcards
1
Q
Characteristics of a product or service that bear its ability to satisfy stated or implied needs; a product or service free of deficiencies
A
Quality
2
Q
What are the three approaches to quality?
A
Product-defined (physical features), manufacturer-defined (meeting specifications), and user-defined (consumer needs and wants)
3
Q
Five elements of quality
A
Performance Durability Serviceability Conformance Aesthetics
4
Q
What are intrinsic quality cues?
A
Quality cues that come from the product itself; aesthetic and functional
5
Q
What are extrinsic quality cues?
A
External influences such as brand image
6
Q
What are the price classifications?
A
Budget Moderate Better Bridge Designer
7
Q
Equation for value
A
Quality + Price = Value
8
Q
Equation for cost per wear
A
Purchase $ ÷ amount of times worn = cost per wear
9
Q
Management and control of development and manufacturing of apparel to ensure product quality and compliance with safety regulations
A
Quality assurance
10
Q
Ensuring standards are maintained through testing at different stages of production, frequent inspections, and proper use of equipment and established procedures
A
Quality control
11
Q
Two types of standards for apparel performance
A
Mandatory/regulatory or voluntary
12
Q
Established requirements for determining if a material or product satisfies quality standards at the national and international levels
A
Specifications
13
Q
Checking whether materials, products, processes and systems personnel meet requirements of standards, regulations, or other specifications
A
Conformity assessment
14
Q
When materials or apparel products conform to standards and specifications to meet consumer expectations that lead to satisfaction
A
Compliance
15
Q
TC38 committee
A
ISO committee for textiles
16
Q
Which testing standards will we use in class?
A
ASTM International
17
Q
American body of textile experts
A
AATCC
18
Q
TAG
A
Represents US in TC38 committee
19
Q
American voluntary standards group
A
ANSI
20
Q
British voluntary standards group
A
BSI
21
Q
National Standards Body
A
Represents UK in TC38 committee
22
Q
European voluntary standards group
A
CEN
23
Q
Chinese voluntary and mandatory standards group
A
CNIS
24
Q
Canadian voluntary standards group
A
SCC
25
NSS
Represents Canada in TC38 committee
26
Association of the nonwoven fabrics industry
INDA
27
CPSC
Consumer Products Safety Commission
28
DOD
Department of Defense
29
Why test products?
Assess product performance, research and discovery, control quality, comparative testing, analyze product failure, government regulations
30
What aesthetic and performance characteristics would a consumer expect from x? List desirable and undesirable characteristics of fabric used for x.
ANSWER
31
List aesthetics and design development details
Color, texture, pattern, proportion, balance, emphasis, rhythm, harmony, silhouette, line
32
Resource for chemical formulations for dyes and pigments
Colour Index International
33
Lab dips used to evaluate and ensure consistent color
Color match
34
When colors match under certain lighting conditions and not others
Metamerism
35
Unified pleasing aesthetic where all elements work together
Harmony
36
Outline or overall shape of a garment
Silhouette
37
Relationship between the body, size, and styling of a garment
Fit
38
What makes a garment fit the body?
Ease; fabric grain; darts and seams; gathers, pleats and tucks; full fashioned and knit-and-wear
39
Appropriate amount of fullness added to a garment to allow for adequate body movement
Functional/wearing ease
40
Take up excess fabric in areas where the garment needs to be shaped around body contours
Darts
41
Formed by sewing two or more plies of fabric together to conform to a desired style
Seam
42
Remove excess fabric to improve fit at the bust, elbow, hip, neck, shoulder, and waist areas
Straight darts
43
Curve towards the body to fit the midriff area from bustline to waist
Concave darts
44
Contour around areas of the body that curve outward such as the abdomen, bust and hips
Convex darts
45
Extend from the bust to the hip and can be straight, concave or convex
Double-ended darts
46
Add fullness to a garment to provide a less structured way to fit
Gathers
47
Controls predetermined fullness that is gathered and released to correspond to a parallel seam in a repeating pattern
Ruching
48
Fit contours of the body by folding the fabric back on itself along the grainline
Pleats
49
Fit contours of the body by folding the fabric back on itself along the grainline then stitched down completely or to a designated length
Tucks
50
2D pre-shaped garment pieces emerge from knitting machine ready to be assembled. Minimum stitching is required
Full-fashioned
51
3D pre-shaped garments are knitted to fit the shape of the body and do not require additional stitching for assembly
Knit-and-wear
52
Finish the edges of garment openings and control fit when edge is cut on bias
Facings
53
Allow for ease of dressing and provide a finish to the opening of a garment
Plackets
54
Three types of buttons
Sew-through, shank, tack
55
The entire population under study
Universe
56
What is the universe for the comparison project?
All of the garments
57
A portion of the universe taken for testing
Sample
58
What is the sample for the comparison project?
Each individual garment
59
A specific portion of a sample where a test is performed
Specimen
60
One yard of fabric taken from a lot sample
Lab sample
61
How do you identify the warp direction?
There are more yarns per inch in the warp direction, yarns are finer and have higher twist
62
In which direction does the warp typically run in garments?
Vertically
63
What is the standard atmosphere for testing?
70°F +/-2, 21°C +/-1; 65% +/-2 humidity
64
Equation to convert celsius to fahrenheit
1.8 x °C + 32 = °F
65
Why condition textiles prior to testing?
To obtain reproducible results for reliable comparisons
66
What is the order of conditioning times by fiber for specimens?
Animal and viscose; natural cellulose; acetate; other manufactured fibers
67
Fibers, yarns, and unfinished fabrics created by mills
Raw materials
68
What are the three fiber forms?
Staple, filament, and tow
69
Tow
Filament cut into staple lengths
70
How do you identify a fiber?
Burning, microscopic observation, and solubility
71
Made from one continuous filament or by twisting staple fibers together to form a spun yarn
Singles
72
Consist of two or more yarns twisted, wrapped, entangled or chemically bonded together
Ply
73
The higher the twist of a yarn (TPI)…
Increases abrasion resistance, smoother appearance and more lustrous surface
74
Method for measuring a yarn's fineness
Yarn number
75
Define direct yarn number systems
Used for measuring filament yarns made from manufactured fiber or silk
76
Direct yarn number systems: Finer the yarn…/Thicker the yarn…
Lower the number/higher the number
77
Define indirect yarn number systems
Used for measuring the length per unit mass/weight of spun yarn made from staple fibers
78
Indirect yarn number systems: Finer the yarn…/Thicker the yarn…
Higher the number/lower the number
79
Short for denier
den
80
Short for tex
tex
81
Short for decitex
dtex
82
Short for kilotex
ktex
83
Short for cotton
Ne(c)
84
Linen lea
lea
85
Metric count
Nm
86
Woolen run
Nw(e)
87
Worsted count
Nw(w)
88
Reporting yarn construction: single spun yarns
Yarn # + Name of system + Twist Direction + # TPI
89
Yarn number of 24, reported using cotton count, Z-twist, 15 turns per inch
24 Ne(c) Z 15tpi
90
Reporting yarn construction: single filament yarns
Yarn # + Name of system + # of filaments in the yarn + Twist direction + #TPI
91
Yarn number of 100, reported using denier count, comprised of 34 filaments with S-twist, 2.5 turns per inch
100 den f34 S 2.5tpi
92
Yarn number of 100, reported using denier count, comprised of 34 filaments with S-twist, ZERO turns per inch
100 den f34 S t0
93
Reporting yarn construction: plied direct yarn number system, same components
(Yarn # + Name of system + Twist Direction + #TPI) X (Number of single yarns + Ply twist direction + #TPI)
94
Reporting yarn construction: plied indirect yarn number system, same components
(Yarn # + Name of system + Twist Direction + #TPI) / (Number of single yarns + Ply twist direction + #TPI)
95
Cotton spun two-ply yarn, reported in single-to-ply notation, yarn number of 24, reported using cotton count, Z-twist, 15 turns per inch, ply contains 2 identical single yarns having S-twist and twisted with 9 turns per inch
24 Ne(c) Z 15tpi/2 S 9tpi
96
Reporting yarn construction: plied yarns with different components
{(Yarn # + Name of system + Twist Direction + #TPI + (full name of system)) + (Yarn # + Name of system + Twist Direction + #TPI + (full name of system))} + Overall twist direction + #TPI
97
Two ply yarn reported using cotton count yarn number of 1st yarn is 24, and the yarn number of the 2nd yarn is 10. 1st cotton yarn Z-twist, 15 turns per inch. 2nd cotton yarn Z-twist, 23 turns per inch. Overall yarn S-twist, 8 turns per inch.
{24 Ne(c) Z 15tpi (cotton) + 10 c.c. Z 23 tpi (cotton)} S 8tpi
98
Structure of material
Fabric construction
99
Determined by counting number of threads per one inch
Fabric count
100
What does fabric count indicate?
Density of the material, quality, cost
101
When the sample is unraveled and each yarn within the area of fabric is removed and counted
Deconstructive fabric count testing
102
Dimension between the top/face and bottom/back surfaces of a material
Fabric thickness
103
Mass per unit area of a length of material
Fabric weight
104
Complex water soluble molecules that are absorbed into the fiber and do not require a mordant
Dyes
105
Two components of dyes
Chromophore and auxochrome
106
The color portion of a dye
Chromophore
107
Provides solubility and bonding capabilities
Auxochrome
108
Not water soluble; requires bonding agents to adhere color to fiber surface
Pigments
109
Pigment is added to the liquid solution prior to extrusion to form fibers
Dope dyeing
110
Applied to fabrics to change their properties in an effort to produce a desired effect for the end product
Textile finishes
111
Change the physical appearance of the fabric; applied by physical means
Dry finishes/aesthetic finishes
112
Change the physical performance characteristics of the fabric; application of chemicals in the form of liquid or foam that must be dried and cured
Wet finishes/functional finishes
113
Permanent finishes
Calendaring, fulling, mercerizing, napping & sueding, plisse, shearing, stiffening (when acid is used), washing, waterproofing
114
Durable finishes
Antimicrobial, antiseptic, antibacterial, calendaring (glazing), durable press (wrinkle-free), flame-resistance, insect control, soil release, stain & water repellants
115
Semi-durable finishes
Antistatic (treated fiber), crease-resistant, flame-resistant, softening
116
Separate plies of fabrics that reinforce portions of the garment and help create the shape of some silhouettes
Support materials
117
Provide structure support
Shaping devices
118
Attached to the surface or inserted into a seam to enhance appearance and quality; decorative linear materials
Trim
119
Any process used to remove soil and stains and to restore the appearance of textile items
Refurbishing
120
Equation for dimensional change
(Dimension after cleaning - Original dimension)/Original dimension x100
121
Original dimension: 18"
Dimension after cleaning: 20"
Calculate dimensional change
10% shrinkage
122
The ability of a material to resist degradation of its properties when exposed to climatic conditions
Wrinkle resistance
123
The fabric property which enables it to recover from folding or deformations
Wrinkle recovery
124
Fibers with poor wrinkle recovery
Cotton, linen, rayon
125
Fibers with average wrinkle recovery
Nylon, polyester
126
Fibers with good wrinkle recovery
Wool, acrylic
127
Finishes that help reduce wrinkling and aid in recovery
Crease resistant, permanent press, durable press, wrinkle free
128
A fabric's resistance to change any of its color characteristics when exposed to environmental conditions during its lifetime
Colorfastness
129
Tools used for color and colorfastness
Gray scales, chromatic transference scales, colorimeters and spectrophotometers
130
Loss or change in color
Color change
131
Transfer of color or staining
Color staining
132
Under which lamp must color evaluation take place?
North Sky light or Daylight lamps
133
Colorfastness tests
Laundering & dry cleaning, perspiration, water, light, atmospheric gas, crocking
134
Maximum resistance of a material to elongate and break or rupture
Tensile strength
135
Amount of pounds of pulling force exerted on the specimen
Load
136
Amount of pounds of pulling force needed to break the yarns in a specimen
Breaking load
137
Six types of tensile tests
Breaking strength, tearing strength, modulus, bursting strength, seam strength, seam slippage
138
Force in pounds required to break many warp or filling yarns at once
Breaking strength
139
Force in pounds required to break one or a few warp or filling yarns at a time
Tearing strength
140
The resistance of a material to applied (stretching) force; amount of elongation and recovery a fabric can withstand without permanent damage or deformation to the fabric
Modulus
141
The force in pounds required to rupture the specimen
Bursting strength
142
The amount of pressure in pounds of force needed to rupture the seam stitching, by pulling yarns at the seam and/or by yarns pulling out of the seams
Seam strength
143
When yarns pull away from the seam stitching causing a gap parallel to the seam
Seam slippage
144
Tensile strength tests that use the Instron machine
Each of the six tests
145
The wearing away of any part of a material by rubbing against another surface
Abrasion
146
Three forms of abrasion
Flat abrasion, flex abrasion, edge abrasion
147
Two flat surfaces rub against each other
Flat abrasion
148
A material is bent and straightened, folded and unfolded
Flex abrasion
149
Occurs at the edge of fabrics/garments
Edge abrasion
150
Fabric properties affecting abrasion resistance
Fiber content: Manufactured fibers resist abrasion and wear
Fabric count: Higher the count the greater resistance to abrasion
Yarn size/fabric thickness: Bigger the yarns the greater the resistance to abrasion
Yarn twist: Higher the twist the greater the resistance to abrasion
Yarn crimp: Lower the crimp the greater resistance to abrasion
Float length: Smaller the float the greater resistance to abrasion
151
Color rub off from excess dye on surface
Crocking
152
Change in color due to abrasion (powdery white effect on darker fabrics)
Frosting
153
Little balls of entangled fibers clinging to surface
Pilling
154
A yarn or part of a yarn pulled from the surface
Snagging
155
Yarns shift position/yarn slippage
Yarn distortion
156
Fabric properties affected by tensile strength
Yarn type, yarn size, yarn twist, fabric count, fabric construction, seam construction
157
Most aesthetically pleasing divisions; dividing or sectioning of line into extreme and mean ratio
Golden ratio/divine proportion
158
Creates visual intrest; focal point
Rule of Thirds
159
Rules for taking specimens
1: Follow test method for number of specimens to cut and how to prepare them
2: Cut no specimen closer to the selvage than 10% of the fabric width
3: Cut specimens for the same test from different areas of the sample
4: Mark and cut specimens accurately, exactly and on-grain
5: Identify the warp direction of each specimen
6: Keep identifying marks on specimen small and away from critical test areas
7: Do not take specimens containing seams, buttons, button holes, or attached decorative elements unless the specified element is to be tested
160
The length of one yard by x amount
Linear yard
161
One yard x one yard
Square yard
