Ex. 4 - Moisturizing Cream Flashcards
Designed to improve the skin quality, maintain and/or restore the moisture content of stratum corneum as well as keep it smooth and pliable, and aid in alleviating the symptoms of dry skin.
Moisturizers
Dry skin is an uncomfortable condition marked by _______, ________, and _______
scaling, itching, and cracking
Major types of moisturizers
- Humectants
- Emollients
- Occlusives
Draws water into the outer layer of the skin from the air or underlying layers of the skin
Humectants
Examples of humectants
Glycerin, sorbitol, urea, and
sodium lactate
Work by forming an oily layer on the top of the skin that traps water in the skin.
Emollients
Examples of emollients
Hydrocarbons, fatty acids, vegetable oils, and waxes
Examples of hydrocarbons
Mineral oil, Petrolatum
Examples of fatty acids
Stearic acid, linoleic acid,
lauric acid
Example of vegetable oil
almond oil
Examples of waxes
Beeswax, carnauba wax,
polyethylene wax, cetyl alcohol
Create a hydrophobic barrier to physically block transepidermal water loss
occlusives
Examples of occlusives
Petrolatum, Silicon Derivatives
such as dimethicone
T/F: Emollients add hydration from their formulation to soften and soothe the skin
True
T/F: Majority of moisturizing formulations are emulsions.
True
Stabilizes the formulation. Has a large impact on the rheological properties of the formulation
Emulsifiers and thickening agents
Most common examples of emulsifiers
Cationic emulsifiers, Nonionic, and polymeric surfactants
T/F: Thickening agents have a minor role in the skin feel of emulsions
False. They have an important role
Examples of hydrophilic thickening agents
Gums (Xanthan gum), Cellulose derivatives, and acrylic polymers
Examples of liposoluble thickening agents
Waxes (cetyl alcohol)
T/F: Creams are W/O while ointments are O/W
False. Creams are O/W while ointments are W/O
In the perspective of moisturizers, thickening agents are called __________
texturizing agents
Inhibit bacterial growth in the formulation and prevent microbiological deterioration
Preservatives
Examples of preservatives
Parabens, methylisothiazolidone
This preservative is documented to have adverse reactions, where higher concentrations are carcinogenic
Parabens
Prevent oxidization of sensitive components and thus rancidity
Antioxidants
Examples of antioxidants
BHT and BHA
What are the functional ingredients?
natural additives, vitamins, peptides and proteins, hydroxy acids, and B-glucans
Examples of natural additives
Fruit and vegetable extracts
Examples of vitamins
Vitamins A and E, and Panthenol
This functional ingredient has antioxidant effects, improve the skin tone, and reduce wrinkles
Vitamins
Examples of peptides and proteins
Collagen, Hyaluronic acids, Milk proteins
This functional ingredient gives soft and smooth feeling
peptides and proteins
This cosmetic additive improve the overall aesthetic qualities of moisturizer products
fragrances
this cosmetic additive is usually soft in color for moisturizers
coloring agents
This cosmetic additive gives Consumer acceptance and aesthetic purpose. Pearlescent pigments, soft-feeling agents, opacifying agents.
Aesthetic agents
Examples of opacifying agents under cosmetic additives
titanium dioxide, glycol stearate
T/F: In the manufacturing procedure, vigorous mixing shall be done when cooling to 40C
False. Gentle mixing only to prevent the formation of bubbles
Packaging for moisturizers
Plastic bottles, soft tubes, and plastic and glass jars
methods done to evaluate skin hydration of the moisturizer
- Conductance method
- Capacitance method
Methods to measure transepidermal water loss
- Open chamber devices (Evaporimeter®, Tewameter ®)
- Closed chamber (VapoMeter®)
What are the qualities to be observed when assessing skin surface (topography)
- Roughness
- Friction
- Desquamation
- Sebum
- Elasticity
T/F: As an efficacy parameter in aesthetic qualities, the appearance of the moisturizer must be assessed after introducing the moisturizer to the skin
True
T/F: As an efficacy parameter in aesthetic qualities, greasiness should be kept at minimum.
True
T/F: As an efficacy parameter in aesthetic qualities, in assessing slip, grittiness is also kept at minimum
False. There should be no grittiness
For safety parameters, what are the ingredients causing safety concerns?
- Fragrances
- Lanolin
- Urea
- Propylene glycol
- Herbal extracts
T/F: Fragrances and herbal extracts cause allergic reactions
True
T/F: In formulation, propylene glycol can be used 80%
False. Until 30% w/v only
What are the 3 methods in quality parameters that determines the emulsion type?
- Conductivity measurement
- Solubility
- Dispersion by dilution
Bonus question: Who has the most moisturized skin and is always everyday glowing?
Andre Martin E. Marapao
