Esthetics Written Final Flashcards

1
Q

Write out the Glogau scale (fill in)

A

1 - mild - age range 25-35 - little wrinkling, requires no makeup

2 - moderate - age range - 35-50 - early wrinkles, requires some makeup

3 - advanced - age range 50-65 - persistent wrinkling, always wears makeup

4 - severe - age range 60+ - wrinkles, photoaging, makeup provides poor coverage

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2
Q

What is the Glogau Wrinkle Scale ?

A

Measures the degree of photoaging of the skin

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3
Q

Write out the Fitzpatrick scale (fill in)

A

1 - very light/fair, freckles, English/Irish, always burns/never tans

2 - light/fair, may have a few freckles, English/Irish/Polish, burns easily/tans minimally

3 - fair/olive, Spanish/Greek/Italian, tans well/burns moderately

4 - olive/light brown, Mediterranean/Hispanic, tans easily

5 - dark brown, African/Indian/Hispanic, tans easily/significantly

6 - dark brown/black, African, rarely/ never burns

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4
Q

How neuroendocrine theory affects the skin? (fill in)

A

Estrogen helps to accelerate wound healing, offers some protection from photoaging, helps plump and keep skin firm & elastic. A decrease in estrogen due to aging/menopause would upset all of the above.

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5
Q

Explain the difference between error theories vs programmed theories (fill in)

A

Error: Environmental hazards cause aging

Programmed: the body’s biological clock sets the pace of aging through hormones

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6
Q

Which is not a theory of the aging process? (multiple choice)

A

Hormone replacement

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7
Q

Free radical damage is one of the theories of aging. How are the free radicals neutralized? (multiple choice)

A

Antioxidants. Supply missing electrons to oxygen molecule

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8
Q

What enzymes are released due to free radical damage?

A

Collagenase - enzyme that breaks down collagen

Elastase - enzyme that breaks down elastin

Hyaluronidase - enzyme that breaks down hyaluronic acid

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9
Q

Explain wear and tear error theory

A
  • The human body is seen as a machine
  • Cells and tissues have vital parts that wear out resulting in aging
  • Like components of an aging car
  • Caused by environmental factors
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10
Q

Explain Glycation / Cross linking error theory:

A
  • Binding of a protein molecule to a glucose molecule
  • Proteins that are crossed link are impaired and less efficient
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11
Q

Explain Neuroendocrine programmed theory

A
  • Biological clock acts through hormones to control the pace of aging
  • Menopause for women, andropause for men
  • Menopause - decrease in estrogen and progesterone - allows for testosterone to present more prominently
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12
Q

What does MED stand for, and what’s the definition? (fill in)

A

Minimal Erythema Dose

The amount of time you can spend in the sun without SPF before you start to burn
Numerical measurement of how long (in minutes) it takes one’s skin to burn minimally without SPF

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13
Q

What’s the best way to fight infection? (multiple choice)

A

Washing hands

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14
Q

What are 4 aggravators of acne ?

A

Genetics
Hormones
Stress
Picking

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15
Q

Define Acne

A

chronic inflammatory condition of the sebaceous glands

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16
Q

What exfoliant is the best for acneic skin? (multiple choice)

A

BHA

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17
Q

Which acne grades are non inflammatory?

A

Grades 1 & 2

18
Q

What do you use for advanced extraction?

A

Lancet

19
Q

How do you dispose of a lancet?

A

Sharps box

20
Q

List 4 benefits of a glycolic treatment (fill in)

A

Reduce fine lines/wrinkles
Aids product penetration
Stimulates collagen
Loosen clogged pores

21
Q

How does glycolic differ from an enzyme? (fill in)

A

Enzyme:
Dissolves Keratin in cell membrane instantly
Instant exfoliation
Removes 1-3 layers of Stratum Corneum

Glycolic:
Dissolves intercellular glue
Occurs over 72 hours*
Removes 5-7 layers of Stratum Corneum

22
Q

What is glycolic acid derived from? (multiple choice)

A

Sugar cane

23
Q

How is glycolic neutralized? (multiple choice)

A

Re-cleansing the skin

24
Q

____ is used before enzyme (fill in)

A

Premask

25
Q

____ is used before glycolic (fill in)

A

Pre-prep

26
Q

Write out the Deep Pore protocol

A
  1. Sanitize
  2. Greet/Install client
  3. Remove eye makeup
  4. Cleanse
  5. Skin Analysis
  6. Enzyme/Glycolic
  7. Tone
  8. Apply thin layer of Desin Gel
  9. Wrap face with distilled water, heat mask for 10 minutes
  10. Extractions - manual and lancet
  11. Tone
  12. Galvanic or finishing mask for 10 minutes. Ampoule applied before galvanic or after finishing mask
  13. m/spf
  14. Sanitize
27
Q

Name 3 contraindications for deep pore (fill in)

A

Acne meds
Metal implants
Grade 4 acne

28
Q

What are contraindications for microdermabrasion? (multiple choice, which is not a contraindication)

A

Active herpes lesions
Pustules
Rosacea
Open sores/lesions
Dermatitis
Psoriasis
Accutane use within 6-12 months
Eczema
Cancer
Autoimmune disorders (Lupus)
HIV
Oral blood thinners
Sun/wind burn
Discontinue retin A, retinol, Differin gel 5-10 days before treatment

29
Q

Which of the following conditions will not benefit from microdermabrasion? (multiple choice)

A

Rosacea
Eczema
Dermatitis
Psoriasis

30
Q

Which skin conditions are treatable with microdermabrasion? (multiple choice, all of the above)

A

Uneven skin tone/texture
Photoaging seborrheic (dry patchy) skin
Fine lines/wrinkles
Enlarged pores
Scars, including acne scars

31
Q

How long should you discontinue use of retin-a, differin gels, etc before microdermabrasion? (multiple choice)

A

5-10 days

32
Q

What’s a benefit of microdermabrasion?

A

Helps build collagen. Specialized fibroblast cells (Cells that build collagen)

33
Q

Explain cavitation. (fill in)

A

The formation of bubbles in a liquid. As the bubbles burst, they cause vibration and create microscopic aqueous channels in the skin (transports water between cells). These channels allow for greater penetration of water soluble products. Microstreaming is a result of cavitation

34
Q

What is Sonophoresis? (fill in)

A

The use of ultrasound waves to increase the absorption of topically applied products. The ultrasound waves disrupt the lipids between keratinocytes which act like glue holding the skin cells together.

35
Q

What skin conditions benefit from Ultrasonic? (multiple choice)

A

All skin conditions

36
Q

During permeation, the wand is held at 45 degrees (T/F)

A

False

37
Q

How many times can you reapply strip wax? (multiple choice)

A

We cannot reapply

38
Q

What is NOT a contraindication of strip wax? (multiple choice)

A

Pregnancy

39
Q

Can you use strip wax on all body parts? (T/F)

A

Yes

40
Q

What is Titration?

A

2 forms of exfoliation like glycolic with ultrasonic

41
Q

During a titration, what’s the maximum amount of time that the enzyme may be left on the skin?

A

3 minutes

42
Q
A