ERTH 307 Final Flashcards
Surface Temperature and Salinity Patterns
Vary in time and space
Vertical variations exist in both
Horizontal variations in T and S change in time, but major patterns exist
Temperature and Salinity Effects on Density
Temperature ↑, Density ↓ (inversely related)
Salinity ↑, Density ↑ (directly related)
Can cause density variates that can affect ocean currents
Ocean Pressure
Increases exponentially
1 atmosphere of pressure added every 10 meters down you go
Water is denser the farther down you go; gets even denser if it is cold and salty
General Wind Patterns at the Ocean’s Surface
Steady winds produce waves and set the surface water into motion
This starts the motion of the main surface gyres of the ocean
High/low Pressure Zones
High Pressure - Polar Cells; high pressure and low precipitation
- Cold, dense air
- Subtropical highs, polar highs
- Dry, clear, fair
Low Pressure - Equatorial region; Hadley cells; high precipitation
- Warm, low density air
- Equatorial lows, subpolar lows
- Cloudy, precipitation
Wind Driven Gyres
5 large gyres - N. Pacific; S. Pacific; N. Atlantic; S. Atlantic; Indian Ocean
Antarctic Circumpolar Current (West wind drift)
Equatorial countercurrent
Velocities vary (fastest are ~meters/sec)
Ekman Transport
Fundamentally due to Coriolis
Affects surface layer of ocean only (i.e. due to winds)
Average transport is perpendicular to wind (right in NH)
Coastal Upwelling (pnw)
Upwelling - vertival movement of deep waters to the surface
These deep waters are typically cold, nutrient-rich, oxygen-poor
In PNW, upwelling happens in the summer; winds blow from north, Ekman transport moves surface water offshore, to be replaced by deeper water
Summer upwelling leads to cooler coastal ocean temperatures; higher productivity = more chlorophyll
Coriolis Effect
Changes the intended path of an object
Causes all moving objects on Earth to follow curved paths; result of Earth’s rotation and spherical shape
To the right in the Northern Hemisphere (clockwise)
To the left in the Southern Hemisphere (counterclockwise)
Things travel different speeds at different latitutdes
Effect is strongest at poles and weakest at equator
Technically, the Earth moves, NOT the object, the object only appears to move
Geostrophic Currents
Geostrophic - balance between pressure gradient and Coriolis
Coriolis Deflection (Ekman Transport) plus the Pressure Gradient steers currents around gyres
Mound of water
Gulf Stream Rings
Cold core eddy - rotates counter-clockwise; 3 layers of depth
Warm core eddy - rotates clockwise; 4 layers of depth
Tide-generating Forces
Tide-generating forces created by Sun and Moon create bulges (get high and low tides dependent on position)
Difference between centripetal and gravitational is the resultant force
Resultant force = tide-generating force (~one millionth gravity)
Types of Tides
High - when the crest of a wave reaches a particular higher location due to the moon and sun’s gravitational pull on Earth
Low - when the crest of a wave reaches a particular lower location due to the moon and sun’s gravitational pull on Earth
Spring - constructive pull between sun and moon; happens when moon is either full or new and in line with the Earth and the sun
Neap - destructive between sun and moon; happens when moon is either first-quarter or third-quarter; moon is not in line with the Earth and sun
Diurnal - one high tide and one low tide in the day
Semidiurnal - two high and two low tides
Mixed - two high and two low tides; high high and low high, high low and low low
Equilibrium Theory
Developed by Newton in the 17th-century
Assumptions:
- Uniform ocean depth and coverage
- 2 equal tidal bulges
- No continents
- No friction between ocean and seafloor
Combined sun and moon bulges; get both sun and moon bulges that interact
Took into account:
- Moon’s angle to Earth (declination)
- Moon and Sun move in elliptical paths
Tide-generating forces created by sun and moon create bulges
Wave-generating Sources
Wind
Tides
Seismic activity
Disturbance caused by some energy source that moves through a medium
Disturbing and restoring forces
Progressive waves: orbital waves
Wave Energy Sources
Wind -
Tides -
Seismic -