D5 Chapter 3 Port Flashcards
What region in Portugal is Port from?
Douro region
When did Port originate and Why?
17th century and because of trade wars between England and France
How did Port come about?
Red wines became popular in England and brandy added to stabilize the wines for transport to England
How did the practice of fortifying the wines during fermentation begin?
Two british merchants visited Abbot of Lamego and found sweet wines were higher quality than dry wines
What was traditional role of shippers in Port?
agents that took commission for shipping port abroad and acquired port from brokers in Douros and stored them in Lodges prior to shipment
What are lodges?
wine cellars/warehouses in Vila Nova de Gaia
What became the newer role of shippers?
Since become producers and are dominant players in production with own vineyards, wineries and bottling facilites
What was the Methuen Treaty?
Ensured that Portuguese wines received lower rates of duties in England than other countries
When was the Methuen Treaty signed?
1703
When Port reached early popularity, what happened?
Led to production of large amounts of poor quality port, leading to lower demand and oversupply, falling grape and wine prices
What 3 things happened in 1756 as a result of the oversupply and low demand of Port?
Prime Minister Pombal demarcated the Port vineyards and drew up production regulations and created the Real Companhia Velha from which all Ports had to be bought
What was the purpose of the “Companhia?”
sold all ports for export, fixed prices and exclusive right to supply spirit used in fortification
What happened as a result of the Pombals actions?
Although unpopular to some, the prices of Port began to rise again
What caused the challenges to the Port industry in the early 19th century?
Douro and wider Portugal experiences the Peninsular Wars and Portuguese Civil War. Also, mildew and Phylloxera later in the century.
What are quintas?
Estates
What two entities were created in the first half of the 20th century?
Instituto do Vinho do Porto (IVP) 1933 and the Casa do Douro (1932)
What was the role of the IVP?
responsible for the administration and supervision of the Port Industry
What was the role of the Casa do Douro?
to supervise the growers with the Port Demarcation
What is the beneficio?
Classification system in Douro where the vineyard parcels are rated from A through I based on suitability for production
What is aguardente?
the spirit added in fortification
Who controlled the purchase of the aguardente with with the producers fortified their wines?
The Casa Do Douro and the IVP
What is an influential development during the end of the 20th century?
early 1980s the World Bank Scheme offered low interest loans to Douro growers who could plant or replant up to 10 hectares of vineyards (A or B grade and only used the 5 prescribed varities)
What was a 2nd influential development in late 20th/early 21s century?
some of the major shippers joined with the local university to fund a vineyard research program
what are pantamares?
Wide terraces for vineyard plantings
What happened in 1986 that led to a rise in quality of the Aguardente and hence the overall Port?
Portugal entered the EU and producers were permitted to source and buy their own spirit on the open market
What controversial thing happened in 1990?
The Casa do Douro bought 40% of one of the largest shippers Royal Oporto, ultimately leading to bankrupcy of the Casa do Douro
What came about in 2003?
the Insituto dos Vinhos do Porto e do Douro (IVDP) which supervised both Port and Douro dry wine producers
What other developments have been made in the Douro in the first decades of the 21st century?
Improved versions of Pantamares; other local varieties outside of the 5 prescribe varieties have been developed; depopulation in the vineyard areas bringing an end to foot treading
Where is Douro located?
Northern Portugal
What is the total area of appelation in the Douro?
43,000 planted hectares; of which 32,000 are DO Port
What is the climate of Douro?
warm continental climate
What influences makes the vineyard areas much warmer and drier than the cities of Porto and Vila Nova di Gaia?
distance from Atlantic Ocean, shelter from the Serra do Marao to the west of the region
What are the three sub regions of the vineyard areas in the Douro?
Baixo Corgo; Cima Corgo and Douro Superior
What does the vineyard area follow the path of?
The path of the River Douro
Describe the Baixo Corgo
most westerly of regions, coolest and wettest since most near cold Atlantic Coast, produces fruit for inexpensive Ruby and Tawny Ports
Describe the Cima Corgo
wamer and drier, most of the well known vineyards here, produces age-indicated Tawny Ports and Vintage Ports
Describe the Douro Superior
furthest from coast, hottest and driest, drought is an issue, sparsely planted, flatter land, allows mechanization, plantings are increasing
Why is there a range of microclimates in the Douro?
winding River Douro and its tributaries provide the microclimates with various altitudes and aspects
Describe the soils in the Douro
stony, shallow, free-draining and poor in nutrients
Why are vine roots able to penetrate deep in Douro?
the schist under the bedrock splits into vertical layers, rather than more typical horizontal
Is irrigation permitted in the Douro?
only in exceptional circumstances
Why does the demarcated Port region boundary mostly follow the outline of the schist?
Because the schist is so important to the viability of grapes in this region
Why are viable vineyard layouts limited in the Douro?
The slopes are so steep (over 30% gradient)
What are the three types of vineyard layouts in the Douro?
Socalcos, Patamares and Vinha ao Alto
What is the tradional vineyard layout in Douro?
Socalcos
Describe the Socalcos
narrow terraces supported by walls of dry rock. planting density 6,000 vines per hectare, not suitable for machines, therefore no longer planted much
Why can the socalcos not be converted to other layouts?
Protected by UNESCO
Describe the Patamares
terraces supported by a steep earth ramp rather than stone wall. small tractors can be used. cheaper to implement and maintain, erosion and weeds can be problem, planting density 3,000 to 3,500 vines per hectare
what are the two kinds of Patamares?
1) Large, wide patamares that support two rows of vines on each terrace, 2) Narrow patamares that only support one row of vines
What are the pros and cons of the large wide patamares?
makes efficient use of vineyard but uneven ripeness can be problem,
What are the pros of the narrow patamares?
more modern, since tilted slightly towards slope and from one side of terrace to other, improves water absorption and drainage and reduces erosion, uneven ripeness not really a problem.
Describe the Vinha ao Alto patamare
vines planted in vertical rows up the slope,
Pros and Cons of Vinha ao Alto patamare
least expensive to plant and maintain, allows for high density planting (5,000 vines per hectare) so efficient use of land; But machines can’t be used above 40% incline. water run off and erosion can be problems, use of this layout is pretty limited
How are vines trained in Douro and why?
Cordon-trained and spur-pruned or head-trained and cane-pruned, VSP trellised; to promote even sun exposure and ripening and allow for mechanization
In Douro, how do they ensure sun exposure for late ripening varities?
summer pruning/ leaf removal
What rootstocks are used in Douro?
those that are drought tolerant, 110R or 1103P
What are priorities in Douro when replanting?
Increasing vine density, vineyard layouts that allow mechanization and selecting the best plant material
What is max yield in Douro and what is likely?
Max is 55 hL/ha; but due to drought many years are closer to 30hL/ha
What are the viticultural hazards for the Douro?
Late spring frosts in high altitude vineyards, sometimes cool, wet weather from west in early summer disrupting flowering and fruit set; downy mildew and botrytis especially in Baixo Corgo
Fertilizers may be used for what?
to improve the poor nutrient status of the soil
Herbicides may be used for what?
to control weeds that grow on the slopes of the patamares and compete with vines for water and nutrients
Why are cover crops grown on Vinha ao alto slopes?
to prevent erosion, improve soil structure and nutrition, and reduce presence of weeds
Why type of harvesting is used commonly and why?
By hand as the vineyard topography is not suitable for machine harvesting
What is changing with labor in the Douro?
An aging regional population (depopulation) is happening and making it difficult for growers to find workers to pick
Who is the largest grower in the Douro region?
Symington Family Estates
How many grape varieties are permitted in Port?
Over 100
What are the five prescribed varieties since 1980s
Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Nacional and Tinto Cao
Who and why would growers be planting or growing outside the 5 prescribed?
some already have for centuries (field blend); some other varietals can make contributions for acid, colour and climate change
The vast majority of Ports are made from what? and why?
A blend of varities to reduce vintage variation
What can a field blend provide?
since there are different ripening times, the blend provides a different character to blocks of different varieties all picked at optimum ripeness and then blended
What are old vines called?
Vinha Velha
What is important about Vinha Velha?
a key part of the blend in premium and super premium port wines
Name the most important black varieties for Port
Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Amarela, Tinto Cao, Sousao
Describe Touriga Franca
late ripening; tight-bunched thick-skinned grapes, resistant to fungus; but vigorous; contributes color, tannin and acidity and juicy red and black fruits and floral aromas
What is the most popular varietal?
Touriga Franca
What is Tinta Roriz called in Spain?
Tempranillo
What is Tinta Roriz called elsewhere in Portugal
Aragonez
Describe Tinta Roriz
early ripening, best grown in cool sites or can suffer water stress; lends body and deep color; produces high yields, but if too high can lack concentration
Describe Tinta Barroca
early ripening, best in cool sites or prone to heat damage; flavors are more earthy as opposed to floral; lacks acidity if site not cool enough; color fades more quickly than touriga nacional and touriga franca; capable of high yields
Where are the best planted cool sites?
high altitude or north-facing slopes; generally Baixo Corgo and Cima Corgo
Describe the Touriga Nacional
mid-ripening ; thick-skinned grapes; deep-color intensity; high tannins; retains acidity; concentrated flavors of black fruits and floral aromas; long-ageing potential (used in premium aged wines); can be vigourous; susceptible to coulure
Describe Tinta Amarela
Prone to fungus due to tight bunches; produces full-bodied wines; concentrated black fruits and spicy notes; approachable in youth but ages well
What is Tinta Amarela called in other parts of Portugal?
Trincadeira
Describe Tinto Cao
low-yields, small thick-skinned grapes; resistant to fungus; late-ripening; tolerant of heat; concentrated wines with high acid; ages well
Describe Sousao
thick-skinned variety; deep intense color; retains high acid
What are the two key white grapes for Port
Malvasia Fina and Moscatel Galego Branco
What is Malvasia Fina called in Madeira
Boal
Describe Malvasia Fina
neutral wines, medium acidity, full-body, slightly honeyed characteristic
Describe Moscatel Galego Branco
aromatic grape; used for unaged styles AKA Muscat Blanc a Petit Grains
How is port produced?
fermentation stopped by adding grape spirits
What is the final range of sweetness in port?
80-120g/l
How long does the skin maceration take place in port production?
2 days
Why do extraction methods need to be effective in port?
because its a short maceration
What are the key methods of extraction during fermentation?
Foot treading in lagares; Modern Lagares; Pumping over; Stainless Steel Pistons; Autovinifiers
What are lagares?
shallow (80 cm deep) square tanks that allows a large surface area between the must and the grape skins
What happened traditionally in lagares?
they were made from granite and extraction came from foot treading
Why was foot treading effective?
extracted well but gentle enough at same time not to crush the seeds (releasing bitter tannins)
Who still uses foot treading in lagares?
small number of premium and super-premium ports
Another name for Modern lagares?
robotic lagares
How do modern lagares work?
Silicon feet attached to a stainless steel gantry, press the grapes against the lagare floor punch down the cap
Pros and cons of modern lagares?
Pro: reduce need for hired workforce; Con: high initial investment
Can modern lagares produce the same quality as traditional foot treading?
yes
Pros and cons of pumping over
Pro: produces deep color and high concentration but not as effective at extracting as foot treading or modern lagares
How do stainless steel pistons work?
uses open stainless steel vats with pistons that punch down the cap to a programmed schedule; can be used in conjuncton with pumping over
Is the combo of stainless steel pistons and pumping over as effective at extracting as lagares?
yes and produces similar quality
How do autovinifiers work?
The rising pressure of CO2 produced from fermentation pushes juice up through the pipes into a holding tank. When pressure of CO2 reaches a certain level, a valve is automatically released and the wine in the holding tank sprays over the cap since it is no longer supported by gas pressure.
What is key advantage to autovinfier?
does not require electricity therefore cheapest option
Downside of autovinifier?
since it depends on the CO2 released from fermentation; very little extraction occurs before fermentation starts; therefore wines are lighter in color and body
What type of wines are suitable to the autovinifer production?
basic Tawny, white and ruby ports
What do modern fermentation vessels tend to be made out of? and why?
stainless steel for easy temp control and easy to clean
Give a reason why you would need temp control in fermentatoin
If you wanted to slow down the fermentation and prolong the period of extraction
Are grapes de-stemmed?
They may or may not be
If stems are fully ripe, can they aid pressing? And how?
yes, by reducing compaction of the pomace and enabling better drainage
What is the fermentation temp for red wines?
82-90 f
Why is 82-90 a good range for reds fermentaton?
warm enough to for sufficient extraction but not too warm that fermentation moves too quickly and reduces available extraction before pressing and fortifying
What is the fermentation temps for white?
63-72f
Why do most producers use ambient yeast?
Not necessary to ferment to dryness
What is the legislation about what can be used for grape spirit for port?
Must come from grapes or grape-derived products; must be of 77% abv
What is the spirit called used for port?
Aguardente
Most styles of port must be fortified to an alcoholic strength of what?
19-22% (with exception of basic ruby, tawny, white and rose)- they can be 18%
The alcoholic strength of aguardente is high or low compared to other fortified wines?
Low, its 77%. and the others are mostly 95-96%
What is different about 77% vs 95% spirit?
77% is lower so it displays more character, the 95% is neutral
What two things about the fortifying spirit has a significant influence on the style and quality of the wine?
Style and quality
When is the fermentation stopped typically?
when the wine reaches 5-7% abv and depends on the concentration of sugar the producer wants to retain in final wine, generally 80-20 g/l. Depends on house style
What happens after fermentation is stopped?
wine is drained from skins before aguardente is added. The mass of grape skins left will be pressed and much of press wine will be blended into fortified free run wine for extra color and tannin
Why must the draining after fermentation arrest be as efficient as possible?
The must will continue to ferment until the fortifying agent is added, using up sugar that is desirable in the final wine.
When are grapes for port picked and why?
when flavors and tannins are ripe, too much potential abv not a problem
is acidification common?
yes,
Do ports go through Malo?
No, lactic acid bacteria can’t tolerate the high concentration of alcohol
What happens after fermentation and where?
Ports spend 1st winter in Douro, they are left to clarify before racked off gross lees. Rotary vaccum is the filter often used to extract remaining wine from lees. In spring wines are shipped to lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia
What is key part of port production process?
Blending, any times
What types of blending?
Different parcels, diff varietals, diff lots, diff vintages, co-fermentation common
Why is blending important?
Consistency, house style
Where are ports matured and why?
Vila Nova de Gaia, strong atlantic influence makes cooler and more consistent
What vessels are used for aging?
mostly in oak, but not new, used
What is largest oak vessel called?
Balseiros (hold 100,000 liters)
What are pipes?
600 liter barrels when gentle oxidation is desired
What is another way a producer can control the oxidatoin?
Frequency of racking and the degree of how much the vessels are topped off with wine.
Name the main categories of styles of port
Basic Ruby, Basic Tawny, Reserve Ruby and Reserve Tawny, Tawny with an Indication of Age, Colheita, Vintage, Single Quinta, Crusted, Late Bottle Vintage, Rose Port, White Port, Very Old Wines
What determines the style of a port?
The quality of the base wine and the form of maturation
Many wines have to be anlyzed and tasted by whom before allowed to specify wine style on the label?
IVDP
What are the factors during the growing season that have an impact on the final quality?
the weather, canopy management and harvesting dates
The least ripe grapes are best suited for what?
less concentrated styles such as basic tawny
Describe a basic ruby port
med body, med tannins, red and black fruit, suitable for early drinking not suitable for ageing, fruity w/out much tannin
What type of winemaking techniques is used to make basic ruby port?
protective winemaking to retain primary fruit flavors
What are some protective winemaking techniques used to make a basic ruby port?
fermenting in stainless steel or concrete; ageing wines in bulk,
How is basic tawny different in color than other tawny’s?
some lightness, some browning like the others but does not come from long periods of oxidation
How are basic tawny ports made to look like other tawny’s?
Light extraction during fermentation
What are the requirements for reserve Tawnies?
Must be aged in wood for min 7 years
What is the min ageing for reserve ruby’s
none but must be tasted and approved by IVDP
How are tawnys with indication of age made?
aged for long periods in wooden barrels giving the wine controlled exposure to oxygen, integrating the alcohol and softening the tannins, creating tertiary
What are the aging vessels of tawny with indicatoin?
620-640 liters barrels that are old
How are tawny with indication labeled?
10,20,20,40,50 years, blend of many vintages
Why is tawny with indication more expensive?
barrels need racking and topping up due to evaporation
what is a newer sub category of tawny with indication?
very old aged tawny (not age indicated)
What is a Colheita?
Tawy ports made from grapes from one vintage
requirements of the colheita?
aged in small barrel for min of 7 years, label must state vintage and year bottled
What is price range of colheitas?
not as expensive as vintage port but some shippers hold small stock that is very old and super premium
What is vintage port?
wines from one “declared” vintage
What must producers do when trying to make a vintage port?
Declare intention in 2nd year after harvest and then the young wine tasted and approved by IVDP panel
How does a declared vintage come about?
A really good weather vintage plus from really high quality plots (usually shippers own vineyards)
What grapes are most commonly used in vintage port?
Touriga National and Touriga Franca
What happens to wines that are not chosen after two years to become a vintage but are still high quality?
Single Quinta Ports, LBV, Crusted Port or a form of tawny port
What is the process of making a vintage port?
Undergo a max of 3 years in old large, wooden vessels before extensive bottle ageing, bottled without fining or filtration results in heavy sediment in final glass
What does a young vintage port present as?
deep in color, full-bodied, high tannins, pronounced intensity of ripe black fruit and possibly floral notes
Once vintage ports age how do they present?
dried fruit, forest floor, tannins and alcohol become better integrated
Why are vintage ports highly profitable for the producers?
early release from winery and limited time in wood
What is a Single Quinta Port?
made in years when producer does not produce a vintage port. It is a wine that is produced from one year and is only made of grapes from one estate.
What is crusted port?
Non-vintage port, aged in wood for up to two years before bottling w/o fining or filtering, therefore a “crust” forms in the bottle
Describe a crusted port?
similar style to a vintage port, considerable ageing potential , good to very good quality, mid-priced to premium
what is a late bottle vintage port?
from a single year and bottled between four and six years after harvest
How is late bottle vintage different than vintage port?
fruit is not as high quality and longer ageing before bottling means they are bottled ready to drink
Describe a late bottle vintage port?
Filtered on bottling so no decanting necessary; good to very good quality, mid-priced, more intensity, body and tannin than ruby and ruby reserve,
Describe an un-filtered late bottle vintage
more full-bodied and benefit from bottle maturation, many spend four to five years in wood followed by a few years in bottle before release; say “unfiltered” on label to distinguish
where do grapes come from that make rose port?
from the coolest areas, high altitudes and Baixo Corgo
How is the rose port made?
black grape must macerates for only a few hours, before draining the free run juice and clarification. Ferment at 56-61f) to retain red berry aromas. Bottled soon after fortification and released within a year.
Describe a rose port
inexpensive to mid-priced, color and flavor depends on producer, pale pink-orange to deep pink
What style is the white port made?
range of styles, range of sweetness and oxidation, some in fruity, unoxidized style.
What is a key grape variety made in the white port blend?
Muscatel
How is white port made?
grapes crushed, So2 added, maceration for a couple of hours at chilled temps; must is drained and pressed and juice fermented off the skins at 63-64f, stored in stainless steel or large old oak casks for short period
Describe a white port
lemon in color, medium bodied, flavors of stone fruit and floral
What variety is key for a highly oxidized style of a white port?
Malavasia
When making an oxidized white port how is the winemaking process different?
wines spend slightly longer on skins and fermented at warmer temps to extract more phenolics, aged for several years in casks
Describe an oxidized style of white port
amber or brown color; flavors of caramel, citrus peel, dried stone fruits and nuts
How can white port be similar to tawny port?
same labelling terms; labelled with term ‘reserve” if they have aged in wood for min of 7 years, can also be labeled with age of indication like 10,20,30, 40 years
What new category was approved in 2022?
Very old wines for 50 years or older (white or tawny) and VVO (very very old) or W for (over 80 years)
How many producers in port produce large volume?
30-35
There are how many main groups of producers of port and they make up what percent of sales?
5 main groups, make up 80% sales
Who is the largest producer in port? And what is the largest single brand?
Porto Cruz and Gran Cruz is largest brand
Who are the three largest producers in port?
Porto Cruz, Symington Family Estates and Sogrape
What is the IVDP
Instituto dos Vinhos do Port e do Doro, came after IVP, formed in 2003 to govern and represent interests of Port wine producers
What are the main functions of the IVDP?
regulates amount of port produced; holds the register of vineyards and all companies involved in wine production; controls volume of port released on to market each year; analyzes and tastes wines to ensure they meet specifications; role in overall promotion
What is the beneficio?
system of regulation where vineyards are classified in terms of suitability to produce, rated A-I
If a vineyard is rated A, what does that mean?
It is highest quality and can produce the most wine
What is the goal of the beneficio?
to keep grape and wine prices stable through influence of supply and demand
Why is the beneficio system much debated?
Many feel it doesn’t benefit industry and port is in decline, as demand has decreased the amount of wine allowed to be made to prevent oversupply BUT the total area of vineyards has been allowed to grow, leading to oversupply of grapes which leads to low prices
What are trends in port sales?
sales peaked at millennium and have been in decline since; but has been increase in avg price due to increase of premium sales
How does IVDP currently separate wines?
One category standard is ruby, tawny, white and rose; the other category is “special categories” which is all wines above standard
What are the largest port export markets?
France, Portugal,
What are some trends in Port to combat declining port sales?
diversification into still wine production; focus on rose and unaged white ports to help bring new drinkers to category, white port used in cocktails, lower alcohol is appealing to younger consumers; also push of premium red ports in hospitality sector
