Costuming Flashcards
basting stitch
a temporary stitch used to secure material until permanent machine stitching can be done, or to transfer markings to the right side of the fabric
bias
cutting woven fabric on a 45 degree angle to the grain line; there is considerably more stretch
bobbin
a spindle or cylinder, with or without flanges, on which thread is wound; used in sewing machines
catch stitch
a stitch which, while holding securely, allows for some “give” to the sewn area. It is useful for hemming knits or garments cut on the bias and for holding facings and interfacings
facing
a piece of fabric used to finish raw edges of a garment at open areas, such as at the neckline, armholes and front and back plackets
grain
refers to the direction of the warp and weft threads used in weaving the fabric. Straight grain is in the direction of the warp threads, which run parallel to the selvages and cross grain runs in the direction of the weft threads, which run perpendicular to the selvage edges
interfacing
fabric sewn or fused especially between the facing and the outside of a garment (as in a collar or cuff) for stiffening, reinforcing and shape retention
knit fabric
made by one continuous thread, much like continuous yarn in hand knitting; knitted textiles are created by a single thread, or yarn, assisted by needles, to create interlocking loops
nap
the fuzzy part of fabrics like velvet
pattern
a template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled
seam
the joint where two or more layers of fabric are held together with stitches
selvage
the tightly woven edge of a fabric; prevents the side edges of the fabric from raveling or fraying; usually sturdier than the rest of the fabric
slip stitch
used for hemming or invisible stitching on appliques; thread passes through only a few threads of the fabric
stitch
a single turn or loop of thread; stitches are the fundamental element of sewing, whether by hand or machine
woven fabric
any textile made from weaving; often created on a loom, and made of many threads woven on a warp and a weft
Cutting Tables
large tables about 36” high for laying out and cutting patterns and fabric.
Dress Forms
human forms in a variety of sizes for draping garments. They can be padded out to precisely match the actor.
Irons and Steamers
for pressing seams and removing wrinkles
Washers and Dryers
for cleaning and dyeing
Dye Vat
for heating fabric while dyeing
Pins
for pinning seams to be stitched; also for marking
Shears
for cutting (like metal scissors)
Marking Tools
Tailor’s chalk, Tracing wheels, Tracing paper
Seam rippers
for picking out stiches that need to be restitched; specially shaped to cut thread without cutting the fabric
Cotton
is one of the most common and least expensive. It comes in a huge variety of finishes, textures, weights, and blends. It dyes easily, wrinkles easily, and can have a crisp “hand.”
Linen
is made from flax. It is very light and breathable. It is the worst wrinkling fabric. It comes in a variety of weights and finishes. It does not dye easily, but it is stronger than cotton.
Silk
is one of the most luxurious fabrics. It dyes well and drapes beautifully. It is made from the cocoons of silk worms. A pure diet of mulberry leaves produces the finest silk. A mixed diet produces a nubbier fabric.
Wool
usually from sheep, is processed into two types of yarns. Woolens are softer, weaker and fuzzier. Worsteds are tighter and more fine. Wools release wrinkles easily, dye well. Too much heat can cause shrinkage and change the texture.
Synthetic Fibers
Acrylic, Rayon, Acetate, Polyester, and Nylon
