Cognac Flashcards
Introduction of Cognac.
- The two most prestigious regional brandies are Cognac and Armagnac. Both have AC status. The Cognac region lies just north of the vineyards of Bordeaux. Cognac is grapey and fragrant.
- Wine had been made in Cognac since the 3rd century. For hundreds of years, wine was one of the main exports. Cognac was an imp trading area (proximity to the sea and river Charente navigable until Cognac).
- From 1549 onwards, an increasing amount of wine was being distilled. Commercial reasons to switch from wine to brandy: the Dutch wanted more brandewijn (“burnt wine”) to add to the drinking water of their merchant fleet; the reputation of Cognac’s brandies was also growing. By the 19th century’s, British and Irish consumers dominated the trade. They were supplied by two major players: Martel and Hennessy, as well as smaller houses such as Augier and Delamain.
- From 1871 onwards, phylloxera infested the vineyards. 25% of vineyards were destroyed in 20 years. By this time Scotch whisky had overtaken Cognac as the world’s most fashionable spirit.
- 20th century was a rollercoaster tale of recovery, crisis and resurgence. Currently, Cognac appears on the way back. The Asia-Pacific market is recovering and the USA has bounced back, thanks to hip-hop generation and new cocktail products. The crisis also resulted in individual growers/distillers marketing their own Cognacs, rather than selling them to the big houses.
Cognac production: the Crus.
- Cognac region divided in 6 vine growing areas or Crus: Grand Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaires. The character of the eaux-de-vie from each cru is dictated by its terroir. The wine’s flavors reflects the specific place it was grown (soil, exposure, altitude, climate).
- In Cognac, the quality and finesse of spirit reflects the mount of chalk in the soil: the more chalk, the better.
- The two Champagnes: highest amount of chalk.
- Borderies: clay.
- Fins Bois: mix of clay with islands of chalk where the top sites are.
- Bons Bois: predominantly heavy clay.
- Bois Ordinaires: light and sandy.
• Each cru has its own typicity:
- The Champagnes: eaux-de-vie with aromas of jasmine, lime blossom. Best suited to long ageing.
- Borderies has more weight and a hint of violet.
- Fins Bois has a grapey fruitiness and in general matures more quickly.
• These are generalities and while terroir is important, the distiller is also important. And inside each cru, there are great, good and indifferent sites. Ultimately the quality of a Cognac lies in the skill of the distiller and blender.
Cognac production: grape varieties and winemaking.
• Ugni Blanc: 95% of plantings. Folle Blanche and Colombard have minor supporting roles.
- Ugni Blanc: good natural acidity, provides floral spicy notes to the eaux-de-vie, and an aroma of patisserie.
- Folle Blanche: more prone to disease but is prized for its supple weight and deeper
fruitiness, aromas of Angelica flower and violet.
- Colombard: is racier but also highly aromatic.
• Normally, the harvest is in October. Then:
- Grapes lightly pressed and fermented without addition of sulfur to stabilise the juice (high levels
of natural acidity are needed to do it).
- Distillers want a low alcohol wine (8-10% abv) as it’s easier to concentrate the aromas.
- The wine may often be left sitting on its lees (or not).
- Natural malolactic fermentation, which also helps stability.
Cognac production: distillation.
- To qualify for Cognac, must be distilled before 31 March of the year following the harvest.
- Must be distilled in a Charentais still, the shape of it almost same since 18th century.
1) The first pass is distilled entirely, producing a distillate (brouillis) with a strength of between 26-29% abv.
2) The brouillis is then redistilled (bonne chauffe) in a still of max 30hl and divided into heads (têtes), heart (cœur) and tail (secondes). There is a tiny element (queues) at the very end.
3) The heart is collected as new spirit (eau-de-vie), while the têtes, secondes and queues are combined and then redistilled, either mixed in with the next charge of brouillis or the wine.
4) The points at which the distiller starts and finishes collecting the heart of the run is critical in creating the flavors of the final spirit. Most distillers cut from heart to secondes at 60-58% abv.
- The shape of the head also play its part in flavor creation. Today most are elongated oval (“olive”) or a fatter “onion”.
- The speed of distillation is imp: slower is better > greater interaction between vapor and copper, as well as promoting reflux. Cognac distillation is very slow: 1st dist=9hrs; bonne chauffe=14hrs; heart run=6hrs.
Cognac production: to lees or not to lees.
To use the lees or not is one of the flavor-producing decisions that a distiller needs to take:
- “Rémy” method: utilises lees in the wine. Distiller’s argument: the lees carry the wine’s flavor, its depth of character and provide a soft mouthfeel. It will also age better and for longer, and help to preserve the typicity of the terroir.
- “Martell” method: the aim is to produce a lighter, quicker maturing style of spirit and so the wine being distilled has no lees. Firms using this technique will often be from or base their blends on quicker maturing crus: for ex, Martell is based on Borderies.
- Whether or not to use the lees is as much a commercial decision as a quality one.
Cognac production: where the secondes end up.
Where the secondes end up is also fundamental to the final flavor of the spirit:
- If secondes diverted back to the wine > alcohol level will raise and aids in producing a higher strength and thus lighter character spirit. This also part of the “Martell” method.
- If secondes go into the brouillis > a deeper and richer eau-de-vie is produced.
- Some distillers take an intermediate approach (as Hennessy) and split the secondes between wine and brouillis > give a ripe and fruity quality.
- The role of the cru comes into play. A well-made Borderies has inherent richness and may be able to retain that character even in fame in the “Martell” fashion.
Cognac production: decisions to make.
The distiller is faced with many choices:
• To distill with lees or not.
• Where to put the secondes (back to the wine or go in to the brouillis).
• What cut points to have.
In addition, distillers of quality brandy have to take into account the nature of the vintage:
• Warm years produce wines with higher sugar levels and lower acidity.
•Adjustments have to be made every year: heavier or finer lees, the proportion of secondes recycled, and so on.
• Distillers will even make minor adjustments later because the wines themselves will change.
Cognac maturation.
• Two types of aok are used for the 350-400 litre barrels:
- Limousin’s coarse grain gives a quicker extract.
- Troncais has a tighter-grained structure that is more suitable for lengthy ageing periods.
- Most firms first age their eaux-de-vie in new barrels for a short period (6 months to 1 year). Delamain is an exception, only using old oak. The eaux-de-vie will then be decanted into older barrels. Using new oak gives the ageing a kickstart and a swift uptake of vanillin and tannin, and is handy if sales are more in the VS camp.
- The second period of maturation in older oak allows a slow oxidation, integration and concentration of these compounds with the spirit without any more intrusive oakiness.
- The conditions in the ageing cellar will also have an effect:
- A humid, moist cellar = Cognac losing strength and volume, but rounding out.
- A dry cellar = retain the alcoholic strength of the Cognac but losing many aromas and flavors.
Cognac reduction.
- Cognac is collected at around 70% abv but bottled at 40% abv. Unlike whisky, can’t just dilute to bottle strength in one go. It would split the spirit and flatten the aroma, and can cause a soapy flavor to emerge.
- Most firms thus reduce very slowly over time either with demineralised water or, in Delamain’s case with faibles (a 15% abv mix of old Cognacs and water).
- A lot will depend on where the Cognac is going to end up:
- XO: will need minimal reduction because the spirit will loose strength naturally.
- VS: needs to be brought down to bottling strength carefully but relatively quickly.
Cognac blending.
• The blender’s art is paramount in Cognac. They have to master:
- Their house’s stock.
- Vintage.
- Oak.
- Warehouse conditions (dry/humid)
• They must make a consistent product with these ever-changing components. Having a good handle on distillation helps to smooth out some of the variability. But ultimately good blending comes down to experience.
