Coasts - Sources Of Energy At The Coast

Question 1

Describe the formation of waves

Answer 1

• friction from the wind moving over the sea surface causes ripples
• this turns into a circular motion
• becomes more elliptical as the waves reach the beach and the water becomes more shallow
• the waves break once the elliptical movement reaches the seabed and crashes

Question 2

What are the two types of waves?

Answer 2

• destructive
• constructive

Question 3

What are the characteristics of a destructive wave?

Answer 3

• weak swash
• strong backwash
• erodes the beach
• short wavelength
• occurs on steeper beaches

Question 4

What are the characteristics of a constructive wave?

Answer 4

• strong swash
• weak backwash
• longer wavelength
• occurs of gently sloped beaches

Question 5

What are the factors affecting wave energy?

Answer 5

fetch - the distance over which the wind blows
duration of the wind - how long the wind lasts for
strength of the wind - stronger winds = stronger waves

Question 6

How is wind a source of energy at the coast?

Answer 6

• prevailing wind transports sediment through littoral drift
• agent of erosion and transportation

Question 7

What is a tide and what are the two types?

Answer 7

• the gravitational pull of the sun/moon results in high and low tides
• spring and neap tide

Question 8

Describe a spring tide

Answer 8

• the sun and moon are aligned, so the gravitational force is much stronger
• the is when the highest and lowest tide occurs (highest tidal range)

Question 9

Describe a neap tide?

Answer 9

• the sun and moon are perpendicular to each other
• the gravitational pull results in a lower tidal range

Question 10

What is a current?

Answer 10

The motion of the ocean

Question 11

What is a rip current?

Answer 11

When underwater plunging waves cause a build up of water on the surface