Coasts Key Terms Flashcards

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1
Q

System

A

A set of interrelated components working together towards some kind of process.

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2
Q

Input

A

The addition of matter and/or energy into a system.

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3
Q

Output

A

Where matter or energy leaves the system.

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4
Q

Stores

A

Where matter or energy builds up in the system.

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5
Q

Flows

A

Where matter or energy moves within the system.

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6
Q

Sediment cell

A

Reaches of shoreline that encompass the intertidal and nearshore movement of sediment.

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7
Q

Positive feedback

A

Occurs when a chain of events amplifies the impacts of the original event.

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8
Q

Negative feedback

A

A chain of events that nullifies the impacts of the original event.

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9
Q

Dynamic equilibrium

A

When the rates of input and output in the system are equal over time, despite ongoing processes and changes.

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10
Q

Wave crest

A

The highest surface part of a wave.

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11
Q

Wave trough

A

The lowest surface part of a wave.

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12
Q

Inshore

A

The area between the low water mark and the point where the waves cease to have any influence on the land around them.

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13
Q

Foreshore

A

The part of the land next to the sea that is between the limits reached by high and low tide.

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14
Q

Nearshore

A

Where waves steepen and break, and then re-form in their passage to the beach, where they break for the last time and surge up the foreshore.

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15
Q

Backshore

A

The part of the beach lying between the beach face and the dune foot or the coastline.

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16
Q

Breaker zone

A

The nearshore zone between the outermost breakers and the bore area where wave water rushes onto the beach.

17
Q

Surf zone

A

The zone where waves break as consequence of depth limitation and surf onshore as wave bores.

18
Q

Swash

A

When a wave washes up onto the shoreline.

19
Q

Backwash

A

When the water from a wave retreats back into the sea.

20
Q

Foredune

A

A ridge of irregular sand dunes, typically found adjacent to beaches on low-lying coasts.

21
Q

Berm

A

A bank of sand or gravel ridge parallel to the shoreline and a few tens of centimetres high, created by wave action throwing material beyond the average level of the sea.

22
Q

Break point bar

A

Ridges of sand or shingle running parallel to the coast in an offshore zone.