COASTS Flashcards

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1
Q

extent of coastal zone area

A

60km onshore

370km offshore

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2
Q

coastal environment

A

where sea interacts with the and, shaping and influencing it by natural and human elements eg. through tides

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3
Q

discordant coastline

A

rock bands of differential resistance perpendicular to coastline

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4
Q

eg discordant coastline

A

swanage bay

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5
Q

sediment sources

A
  • offshore marine deposits
  • materials from mass movements
  • wind-blown deposits
  • artificial beach nourishment
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6
Q

sediment cell

A

a closed system, usually bound by headlands, in which sediment is trapped and transported around

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7
Q

swash-alligned beach

A

swash is 90 degrees to coastline - hardly any sideways movement of sediment up/down beach (minimal longshore drift)

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8
Q

drift-aligned beach

A

orientated obliquely to crests of prevailing waves - controlled by longshore drift with features eg. spits, bars, tombolos

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9
Q

recurved spit

A

made from a series of spits - several recurved edges on landward side

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10
Q

cusps

A

semicircular depressions occurring on swash aligned coastline - channel swash towards middle of embankment creating strong backwash down middle (therefore erosion)

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11
Q

runnel

A

a channel which collects water and slowly flows back to the sea

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12
Q

ridge

A

elevated area between runnels

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13
Q

berms

A

all ridges before storm beach

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14
Q

conditions for spits to occur

A
  • abundant material available
  • coastline irregular due ro geographical variation
  • estuaries / major rivers
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15
Q

tombolo

A

ridge of material linking island to mainland

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16
Q

cuspate forelands

A

shingle ridges deposited in a triangle shape - result of 2 spits joining or combined effect of 2 distinct sets of storm waves

17
Q

offshore bar formation

A

coarse sand/shingle - develop offshore due to gently shelving sea bed - waves feel bottom far offshore, causing a disturbance in the water - leading to deposition , forming a bar BELOW sea level

18
Q

barrier beach formation

A

natural sandy breakwaters which form parallel to a flat coastline

19
Q

conditions needed for barrier beach formation

A
  • gently sloping, low-lying coast, unprotected by cliff
  • faces the ocean
  • rising sea levels = break over dunes, creating lagoon behind ridge
  • waves wash sand inland from island, leading to creating of new islands
20
Q

methods used to slow dune migration

A
  • planting of grasses/vegetation - eg. marram grass - with long root systems which bind sand together
  • erecting brushwood fences to reduce sand movement
  • planting conifers which can stand saline environment + poor soils
21
Q

storm beach

A

biggest boulders thrown to back of beach during storm activity at highest fo spring tides

22
Q

bar formation

A

if a spit joins 2 headlands across a bay

23
Q

eustatic sea level change

A

when sea level increases due to change In volume of ocean basin or volume of water (global)

24
Q

isostatic sea level change

A

change in sea level caused by rise or fall of the land (local)

25
Q

wave height

A

distance between wave trough and crest

26
Q

wave length

A

length of wave from trough to trough

27
Q

wave frequency

A

number of waves passing a certain point per minute

28
Q

wave crest

A

point of maximum height of a wave

29
Q

wave through

A

lowest point of a wave

30
Q

fetch

A

the distance of open water a wave travels over

31
Q

swash

A

the constructive movement of a wave up a beach

32
Q

backwash

A

the destructive movement of a wave down the beach, back out to sea after breaking on the shore

33
Q

constructive wave

A

wave with a long wavelength, low frequency, low height, a weak backwash and a strong swash, which results in the deposition of sediment

34
Q

destructive wave

A

a wave with a short wavelength, high frequency and height, strong backwash and weak swash which results in the erosion of sediment

35
Q

wave refraction

A

when waves hit a headland, slowing down and and causing the waves on either side to bend towards the slowest point of movement - resulting in erosion of headlands