Coasts Flashcards
1
Q
What is fetch?
A
- The length of water over which a given wind has blown
2
Q
What are the characteristics of a destructive wave?
A
- They are created from big, strong waves when the wind is powerful and has been blowing for a long time.
- They occur when wave energy is high and the wave has travelled over a long fetch.
- They tend to erode the coast.
- They have a stronger backwash than swash.
- They have a short wave length and are high and steep.
3
Q
What are the characteristics of a constructive wave?
A
- They are created in calm weather and are less powerful than destructive waves.
- They break on the shore and deposit material, building up beaches.
- They have a swash that is stronger than the backwash.
- They have a long wavelength, and are low in height.
4
Q
What is hydraulic action?
A
- The force of waves hitting the cliffs and forcing pockets of air into cracks and crevices.
5
Q
What is abrasion?
A
- Caused by waves picking up stones and hurling them at cliffs and so wearing them away
6
Q
What is corosion?
A
- Dissolving of rocks by the acid in sea water
7
Q
What is attrition?
A
- A process whereby the material carried by the waves carried by the waves becomes rounded and smaller over time as it collides with other material.
8
Q
What is longshore drift?
A
- Longshore drift is caused by the oblique wave angles that create a near shore current.
- The zigzag pattern is because when a wave breaks, the swash carries material up the beach at the same angle as that which the wave approached the shore.
- As the swash dies away, the backwash and any material carried by it returns straight down the beach, at right angles to the waterline, as a result of gravity.
- Constructive waves
9
Q
What is weathering?
A
- The breakdown of rocks which is caused by freeze-thaw and the growth of salt crystals, by acid rain and by the growth of vegetation roots
10
Q
What is erosion?
A
- The wearing away of rocks by wind and rain
11
Q
What is mass movement?
A
- The removal of cliff-face material under the influence of gravity in the form of rock falls, slumping an landslides.
12
Q
When is deposition likely to occur?
A
- When waves enter an area of shallow water.
- When waves enter a sheltered area, eg a cove or bay.
- When there is little wind.
- When there is a good supply of material.
13
Q
What is a concordant coastline?
A
- Occurs where the bands of differing rock types run parallel to the coast.
- The outer hard rock (e.g. granite) provides a protective barrier to erosion of the softer rocks (e.g. clays) further inland.
14
Q
What is a discordant coastline?
A
- Occurs where bands of differing rock type run perpendicular to the coast.
- E.g. Dorset coastline running north from the Portland limestone of Durlston Head
15
Q
How does a cave form?
A
- Occur when waves force their way into cracks in the cliff face.
- The water contains sand and other materials that grind away at the rock until the cracks become a cave.