Coasts Flashcards
What are the subdivided areas of the littoral zone?
- offshore - beyond the influence of breaking waves
- nearshore - intertidal and within the breaker zone; used for fishing, trade and leisure
- backshore - above high tide and the influence of normal wave patterns; may have a storm beach further up
Rocky coasts key points
- subject to erosion
- tend to be steep or vertical in profile
- attacked by weathering and mass movement processes
- often a high energy environment
Plain coasts key points
- deposited landscapes of sand, shingle and mud
- low, flat landscapes, often poorly drained
- often a low energy environment
- dominated by processes of accretion so the coastline advances seaward
What are the three elements to geological structure?
- Different layers of rock exposed in a cliff - strata
- Degree of tilting and folding by tectonic activity - deformation
- Fracturing that may have moved rocks from their original positions - faulting
What are the two types of coast the geological structure produces?
- Concordant - when rock strata run parallel to the coastline
- Discordant - when different rock strata intersect the coast at an angle so rock type varies along the coastline
Concordant coast example
- The Dalmation Coast in the Adriatic sea:
- limestone been folded by tectonic activity into a series of anticlines and synclines that trend parallel to the sea
- the syncline basins have been drowned by sea level rise
- the anticlines have produced long narrow offshore islands
Discordant coasts key points
- Dominated by headlands and bays
- Less resistant rocks are eroded to form bays
- More resistant rocks remain as headlands protruding into the sea
- Headlands and bays change over time because headlands are more eroded than bays - due to refraction
What is wave refraction?
- in deep water wave crests are parallel
- as water becomes shallower waves slow down and increase in height
- in bays - wave crests curve to reflect their shape and wave height increases
- wave action is concentrated on headlands
What are cliff profiles affected by?
- resistance of rock to erosion
- dip of rock strata
Other geological features influencing cliff profiles and can intiate notches and caves
- faulting can expose rocks to erosion as they are areas of weakness
- natural cracks in rocks (jointing) can also be areas of weakness
Key points of stability
- vegetation roots bind sediments together making them more resistant to erosion
- when submerged plants protect the surface from erosion
- plants also protect sediment from wind erosion by reducing wind speed through fraction
- plants that grow as a succession in coastal environments are specially adapted xerophytes or halophytes
Key points about sand dunes
- sand is deposited by the sea in low energy conditions
- wind may then move the sand to make dunes further up the beach
- these in turn become colonised by stabilising plants
Key points about salt marshes
- sheltered river estuaries or zones in the lee of spits are areas where there are extensive accumulations of silt and mud aided by flocculation and gentle tides
- these intertidal areas are colonised by vegetation and over time this may develop into a salt marsh
What is wave energy controlled by?
- the force, direction and duration of wind
- the fetch - the longer the fetch the more energy a wave has
How do beaches change over time due to the types of waves?
- daily - as a storm passes destructive waves become constructive and berms are created
- seasonally - storm beaches created mostly in winter
- long term - more storms may occur due to climate change with higher storm beaches
What is the rate of coastal erosion affected by?
- lithology - harder rock is more difficult to erode - some resistant rock can be eroded along joints or cracks
- structure and dip; steep cliffs form if rocks dip inland whereas rocks that dip seaward produce gentler slopes
- wave steepness; steeper, high energy waves have more power to erode
- wave breaking point; waves breaking at the foot of a cliff have more energy to erode
- width of beach - wider beaches absorb some of the waves energy and protect the coastline
- nature of the beach; pebbles dissipate energy from waves through friction and percolation