Coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

How are waves formed?

A

Waves are forms by wind blowing over the surface of the water/sea this exerts a drag/friction creating a swell in the water. The energy of the wind causes the water particles to vibrate as the wind passes over.

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2
Q

Draw the formation of the wave

A

4 waves getting longer with a rotating arrow in the middle of each getting more oval/longer each time. These should be labelled 1, 2, 7, 9. At the top of the 7 wave there is an 8. There should be a diagonal line going from the corner over one to in front of nine. An arrow going down saying 4 and an arrow going up saying 6. The diagonal line - nearer 1 should be called 3 and the space under the line 5

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3
Q

What is 1 representing

A

The circular orbit in open water

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4
Q

What is 2 representing

A

The wave becoming more elliptical -oval- in movement

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5
Q

What is 3 representing

A

Friction slows down the base of the wave

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6
Q

What is 4 representing

A

Water from the previous wave returns as backwash

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7
Q

What is 5 representing

A

Shelving sea bed (beach)

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8
Q

What is 6 representing

A

Water rises up the beach as swash

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9
Q

What is 7 representing

A

An increasing elliptical orbit

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10
Q

What is 8 representing

A

The top of the wave moves faster

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11
Q

What is 9 representing

A

The wave beginning to break

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12
Q

What does wave energy depend on

A

The fetch, the strength of the wind, the length of time over which the wind has blown

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13
Q

What is the fetch

A

How far a wave has traveled

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14
Q

What is England’s prevailing wind

A

SW

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15
Q

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to have a strong wash

A

Constructive

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16
Q

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to have a strong back-wash

A

Destructive

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17
Q

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to be tall

A

Destructive

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18
Q

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to have a long wave length

A

Constructive

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19
Q

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to occur in winter

A

Destructive

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20
Q

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to be a steep wave

A

Destructive

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21
Q

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to be powerful

A

Destructive

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22
Q

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to build up the beach

A

Constructive

23
Q

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to be slow moving waves

A

Constructive

24
Q

Is a constructive wave or a destructive wave more likely to be a longer time between each wave

A

Constructive

26
Q

What is hydraulic action

A

Waves smashing into the cliff makes air pockets in the cracks. These are pressurised and explode

27
Q

What is abrasion

A

This is when the stones in the sea are chucked at the cliff face by the sea and the cliff is worn away like sand paper

28
Q

What is attrition

A

This is when the rocks in the sea bang again each each other and become smooth

29
Q

Solution

A

This is when the sea dissolved the coast. Chalk and limestone are soluble so they are affected by solution

30
Q

What is the definition of marine erosion

A

Erosion is the breakdown and transport of materials

30
Q

Draw a diagram of longshore drift

A

The prevailing wind coming from the SW and arrow. A dotted line in the same direction. This should be 1. Then a line at right angles to the shore label 2. Repeat 3 times. At the top have an arrow running horizontally across the page going away from the first line and the wind. Called this the net movement of sediment (number 3)

31
Q

What does 1 represent (longshore drift)

A

The swash, with material in, traveling up the beach in the direction of the prevailing wind

32
Q

What does 2 represent (longshore drift)

A

Backwash returning to the sea under the influence of gravity, perpendicular to the shore.

33
Q

What does 3 represent (longshore drift)

A

The repeated zigzag motion of the sediment results in a net movement of materials down the beach. This is called longshore drift

34
Q

Why do you think that longshore drift would occur on some beaches and not on others.

A

If the bay was sheltered then there wouldn’t be a longshore drift, or if there was an off shore drift, or solid geology

35
Q

What are the presses of transportation

A

Traction
Saltation
Suspension
Solution

36
Q

What is traction

A

Larger materials are rolled along the sea floor

37
Q

What is saltation

A

Smaller rocks and pebbles are bounced along the sea floor

38
Q

What is suspension

A

Small particles are carried within the flow of the water

39
Q

What is solution

A

Soluble minerals are dissolved within the water

40
Q

What is deposition?

A

When the sea dumps it’s load

41
Q

Why does deposition occur

A

When there are gentil waves with less energy. Or when they lose energy. If there was too much energy it will erode

42
Q

Where does it occur

A

Where there is shallow water or a sheltered environment

43
Q

What are the landforms of coastal erosion

A
Fault /lines of weakness
Wave cut notch
Sea cave
Arch 
Stack
Stump
44
Q

Line of weakness

A

A line of weakness is made bigger by hydronic action. Line of weakness is already there

45
Q

Wave cut notch

A

Created by hydronic action

46
Q

Sea cave

A

Created by hydronic action and then abrasion

47
Q

Arch

A

Created when a sea cave breaks though the rock by hydrolic action and abrasion

48
Q

Stack

A

When the top of the arch collapses

49
Q

Stump

A

The stack is eroded forming a stump

50
Q

What is a deposition landform?

A

When the sea loses energy it drops the material it has been carrying.

51
Q

Describe a situation when deposition landforms might be made.

A

Deposition happens when the swash is stronger than the backwash and is associated with constructive waves.

52
Q

Give 5 examples of when deposition is likely to occur

A
  1. Waves enter an area of shallow water
  2. Waves enter a sheltered area, e.g. a cave or a bay
  3. There is little wind
  4. There is a good supply of material in the water
  5. There is a short fetch
53
Q

What is a constructive wave on a beach?

A

Swash stronger than backwash

54
Q

What is a destructive wave on a beach?

A

Backwash stronger than swash