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Geography > Coasts > Flashcards

Coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

Dynamic equilibrium

A

State of balance where inputs equal outputs in system that is continually changing

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2
Q

Amount of energy in a wave is dependent on:

A
  • strength of wind
  • duration it blows for
  • length of fetch
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3
Q

Destructive waves

A
  • weak swash, strong backwash
  • high, plunging
  • short wavelength
  • erosive
  • steep beach profile
  • from local storms
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4
Q

Tides exist because of:

A

Gravitational pull of moon and sun on earth

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5
Q

Rip current

A

Build up of water due to waves at top of beach trying to return to sea

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6
Q

Constructive waves

A
  • from distant weather systems
  • low, surging
  • long wavelength
  • strong swash, weak backwash
  • depositional
  • gentle beach profile
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7
Q

Tidal range

A

Relative distance in height between high and low tide

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8
Q

Types of tides

A

Spring - sun and moon in line with earth - large tidal range - high high tides and low low tides

Neap - moon and sun at right angles to earth - small tidal range - low high tides and high low tides

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9
Q

High energy coastline

A
  • rocky landscapes

- rate of erosion exceeds rate of deposition - erosional landforms

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10
Q

Low energy coastlines

A
  • sandy and estuarine coasts

- rate of deposition exceeds rate of erosion - depositional landforms

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11
Q

Wave refraction

A

Distortion of wave fronts as they approach an indented shoreline
- energy concentrated at headlands and dissipated at bays - erosional features at headlands and depositional at bays

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12
Q

Sources of sediment

A
  • rivers
  • cliff erosion
  • longshore drift
  • wind
  • glaciers
  • offshore
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13
Q

Sediment cell

A

Stretch of coastline, usually bordered by two headlands, where movement of sediment is relatively self contained

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14
Q

Mechanical weathering

A

Breakdown of rock without any chemical changes taking place

  • freeze thaw
  • salt crystallisation
  • wetting & drying
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15
Q

Biological weathering

A

Breakdown of rock by organic activity

  • animals burrowing into cliffs
  • plant roots
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16
Q

Chemical weathering

A

Breakdown of rock involving a chemical reaction

  • carbonation
  • oxidation
  • solution
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17
Q

Mass movement

A
  • downhill movement of material under influence of gravity
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18
Q

Types of mass movement (7)

A
  • soil creep
  • mudflows
  • landslide
  • rockfall
  • landslip
  • runoff
  • soilfluction
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19
Q

Hydraulic action

A
  • air may become trapped in cracks in cliff face - when wave breaks, trapped air is compressed which weakens cliff causing erosion
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20
Q

Wave quarrying

A
  • action of waves breaking against unconsolidated material like sand - waves scoop out loose material
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21
Q

Corrasion

A
  • material and pebbles being picked up by sea and hurled at cliff
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22
Q

Abrasion

A
  • sandpapering effect as sediment is dragged up and down shoreline creating smooth surface
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23
Q

Solution

A
  • weak acids in seawater dissolve alkaline rock
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24
Q

Attrition

A
  • pebbles grind against each other making them smaller and more rounded
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25
Q

Factors affecting coastal erosion

A
  • waves
  • wind
  • lithology
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26
Q

Transportation processes

A

Traction - rolling of sediment too heavy
Saltation - sediment bouncing along seabed
Suspension - smaller sediment carried in water
Solution - dissolved load transported

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27
Q

Erosional landforms

A
  • Cave
  • Arch
  • Stack
  • Stump
  • Wave cut notch
  • Wave cut platform
  • Cliff
  • Headlands & bays
28
Q

Depositional landforms

A
  • Spit
  • Beach
  • Tombolo
  • Bars
  • Sand dunes
  • Barrier beaches
29
Q

Types of beaches

A

Swash aligned

Drift aligned

30
Q

Eustatic sea level change

A
  • global changes in sea level due to atmosphere
31
Q

Examples of soft engineering

A
  • Beach nourishment
  • Dune stabilisation / regeneration
  • Beach recycling
  • Managed retreat
  • Beach re-profiling
  • Salt marsh creation
32
Q

Examples of hard engineering

A
  • Sea Walls
  • Gabions
  • Revetments
  • Groynes
  • Riprap
  • Tidal barriers
33
Q

Isostatic sea level change

A
  • local changes in sea level due to movement of earth’s crust
34
Q

Epeirogeny

A
  • tilting of earth’s crust - allows sea level to change locally
35
Q

Submergent landforms

A
  • Rias
  • Fjords
  • Dalmatian Coastlines
  • Drowned forests
  • Shingle Ridges
36
Q

Emergent landforms

A
  • Raised beaches
  • Relic / Abandoned coastlines
  • Base level changes / Rejuvenation
37
Q

Mudflats

A
  • areas where tidal waters flow slowly
38
Q

Salt Marshes

A
  • where mud flats are sufficiently stable to support vegetation
39
Q

Factors affecting beach profile

A
  • wave energy

- wave type

40
Q

Positive feedback

A

Enhances changes - more unstable and less equilibrium

41
Q

Negative feedback

A

Dampens changes - holds system in equilibrium

42
Q

Morphological system

A

Variables affect each other - e.g. beach size affects LSD

43
Q

Cascading system

A

Chain - one thing has direct impact on another

44
Q

Isolated system

A

No interaction with anything beyond boundary

45
Q

Sources of energy

A

Wind
Waves
Currents
Tides

46
Q

Two types of sediment

A

Clastic - from rock weathering and erosion

Biogenic - shells and skeletons of marine organisms

47
Q

Concordant coastline

A

Orientation parallel to coast - hard rock protects soft rock

48
Q

Discordant coastline

A

Orientation at right angles to sea - alternating layers of hard and soft rock

49
Q

Influences on the coastline (7)

A 
Geology
Beach presence
Human activity 
Type of wave
Coastal configuration 
Fetch
Sea Depth
50
Q

Geo

A

Steep sided inlet on side of the coast

51
Q

Blowhole

A

Joint between sea cave and surface above is enlarged and air can pass through - water expelled through hole

52
Q

Berms

A

Represent different tidal levels up beach

53
Q

Tombolo

A

Ridge of sand or shingle formed between small island and mainland

54
Q

Offshore Bar

A

Submerged ridge of sand created by waves offshore from coast - deposited offshore

55
Q

Sand dune succession (5)

A 
Embryo Dune
Fore/Yellow Dune
Grey Dune
Dune Slack
Mature Dune
56
Q

Causes of sea level change

A

Increase / decrease in height of land - isostatic
Depression of earth’s crust by ice sheet which rebounds - isostatic
Change of volume in oceans - eustatic
Changes in climate - sea rise
Tectonic movements

57
Q

Landforms of sea level change (3 of each)

A

Submergent: Rias, Fjords, Dalmatian Coastline

Emergent: Raised Beaches, Abandoned Coastlines, Rejuvenation

58
Q

Ria

A

Submerged river valley - lower parts drowned but higher parts exposed
- Kingsbridge Estuary, Devon

59
Q

Fjord

A

Submerged glacial valley - formed when glaciers eroded below sea level
- Milford Sounds Fjord, New Zealand

60
Q

Dalmatian Coastline

A

Form where valleys lie parallel - tops remain exposed and appear to be series of islands parallel to coast
- Dalmatian Coast, Croatia

61
Q

Raised Beaches

A

Areas of former wave cut platforms - beaches higher than present coastline
- Little Gruinard, Ullapool

62
Q

Abandoned Coastline

A

Coastal features no longer interact with coast

- St Andrews Coastline, Scotland

63
Q

Rejuvenation

A

River erosive process rejuvenated when sea level falls

- River Wear, Durham

64
Q

Soft engineering types (6)

A
  • Beach Nourishment
  • Dune Regeneration
  • Beach Recycling
  • Managed Retreat
  • Beach Re-Profiling
  • Salt Marsh Creation
65
Q

Hard engineering types (6)

A
  • Sea Walls
  • Gabions
  • Revetments
  • Groynes
  • Riprap
  • Tidal Barrier

Geography (5 decks)

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