Coasts Flashcards
What are inputs to the coastal system?
- Energy (waves, tides and currents)
- Sediment
- Biogenic inputs
- Changes in sea level
- Human activities
What are processes in the coastal system?
- Erosion
- Longshore drift
- Deposition
What are outputs of the Coastal System?
- Erosional Landforms
- Depositional Landforms
- Accumulations of sediment above tidal limit
- Loss of wave energy.
What are tides caused by?
The gravitational pull of the moon as it orbits the earth and the sun as it is orbited by the earth.
What is abrasion?
The erosion of shore platforms and cliff bases by the constant grinding action of sand, shingle and boulders over rock surfaces.
What is attrition?
The erosion of the beach material itself, as rocks, boulders and pebbles are constantly knocked against each other in the water.
What is biological weathering and erosion?
The smoothing of rock, especially shore platforms or the drilling of holes and honeycombs by browsing invertebrates such as limpets, burrowing worms and barnacles. Animals burrowing and tree roots can grow into rock joints.
What is corrosion?
Salt water from sea spray is able to corrode many rock types. Also, evaporation of salt and the production of crystals which expand in pores and cracks, causes rocks to disintegrate in coastal environments.
What is hydraulic action?
When pockets of air become trapped and compressed within rock joints or between waves and cliffs. The increased pressure weakens cliff faces and they break.
What is rock quarrying?
Wave action pulling away loose, jointed rock from cliff faces and shore platforms.
What is water layer weathering?
The alternate wetting and drying of the shore platform due to tides and waves, causes a variety of weathering processes to take place including hydration, oxidation and salt crystallisation.
What is freeze thaw?
A type of sub aerial weathering that happens during winter months when water trapped in rock joins or pore spaces within rocks freezes and expands, exerting pressure within the rock. Over time the rock weakens and shatters.
What is salt crystallisation?
At warm temperatures when water evaporates, salt crystals are left behind that grow and exert pressure within the rock causing it to disintegrate.
What are some chemical processes that affect exposed cliffs?
- Hydration, minerals absorb water causing them to swell and disintegrate
- Hydrolysis, when H ions in water react with minerals in rocks causing rock to break down.
- Oxidation, occurs when rocks react with oxygen in the air or water, causing the rock to change colour and disintegrate more easily due to a weakened structure.
How can human activities contribute to sub aerial weathering?
Coastal activities such as rock climbing and mountain biking contribute to increased pressure on coastal paths and may result in footpath and cliff erosion.
Human constructions such as groynes that trap sediment can cause knock on effects down drift, increasing erosion elsewhere.
What are the characteristics of constructive waves?
-Low height (
What are the characteristics of destructive waves?
- High (>1m high)
- High frequency (10-14 per minute)
- Short wavelength (about 20m apart)
- Stronger backwash than swash so material is washed back down the beach resulting in flatter beach profiles.
- Steeper gradient
How do waves develop?
As the wind blows across the surface of the sea, friction causes the water to ripple. As waves form, the surface becomes rougher and it’s easier for the wind to grip the roughened surface and intensify the waves.
What are some factors that affect size of waves?
- Wind speed
- Fetch
- Gradient of beach
How do waves break?
The bottom of the wave touches the sand and slows down due to increased friction. The top of the wave becomes higher and steeper until it topples over.
What are landforms that are wave dominated?
- shore platforms
- cliffs
- beaches
- spits, tombolos
- deltas
What are landforms that are tide dominated?
- mudflats
- sand flats
- salt marshes
- mangroves
- deltas
What landforms are wind dominated?
-sand dunes
What happens when waves approach an irregular coastline?
As the waves approach, they curve and distort. As each wave nears the coast, it drags in the shallow water, causing the wave to become higher and steeper with a shorter wavelength. The part of wave in deeper water moves forward faster, causing the wave to bend. The overall effect is that wave energy becomes concentrated on the headland, causing greater erosion which leads to the development of features such as cliffs, caves and arches. When caves diverge, they lose power and drop their sediment forming beaches.
What is a spring tide?
When the moon is between the Earth and the sun, the combined gravitational pull creates the biggest bulge of water and the highest tide. At this time the high tides are at their highest and low tides are at their lowest, so tidal range is at its greatest.
What is a neap tide?
When the Earth, moon and the sun form a right angle, their gravitational pulls interfere with one another and this is when neap tides occur giving the lowest high tides and highest low tides (smallest tidal range).
What does tidal range impact?
- The vertical difference over which erosion and deposition occur.
- The length of time that the littoral zone (area between high and low water mark) is exposed to sub aerial weathering.
How does shape of the coast influence the tidal range?
- Funneled coast e.g. severn estuary = as tide advances it is concentrated in a narrowing space, causing height to rise rapidly, producing a tidal bore.
- Tidal ranges in British Isles are high in places which give a wide zone of wave attack, resulting in the formation of wide wave cut platforms in many places.
- The coriolis effect also influences the range of tides.
What is a sediment cell? (littoral cell)
A length of coastline within which the movement is largely self contained. A stretch of coastline within which marine processes or erosion, transportation and deposition operate.
What is differential erosion?
Variation in the rates at which rocks wear away.
What are joints?
Cracks in the rock, often formed when rocks cool from magma or when materials are offloaded. Joints are usually vertical and increase erosion rates because they represent lines of weakness in the rock.
What are bedding planes?
Surfaces that are parallel to surface of deposition. Gaps between planes is an area of structural weakness.
What is a concordant coastline?
When the bands of different rock run parallel to the coast. E.g. Durdledoor and the Dalmation Coast in Croatia.
What is a discordant coastline?
Where bands of different rock run at rightangles to the coast. E.g the isle of Purbeck, Dorset.
How are blowholes formed?
When overlying rocks collapse over a cave and as it is opened up a blow hole can develop.
what is the Lithology of rocks?
The characteristics of rocks such as what they are made of and how resistant they are.
What is mass movement?
The geomorphic process by which soil and rock move downslope under the force of gravity.
When do spring tides occur?
When the sun, moon and Earth are aligned, resulting in a high tidal range.
When do neap tides occur?
When the sun and moon are at 90 degrees to eachother and the moon’s forces are partially cancelled out by the sun’s so the tidal range is reduced.
What are the types of mass movement?
- Rockfalls, weathering on rock surfaces breaks rock up into pieces that fall.
- Soil Creep, very slow on shallow slopes soil moves down due to increase in mass when it’s wet.
- Landslides, cliffs made from soft rock are lubricated from rainfall so slip.
- Slumping, same as landslides but happens on a concave surface, so the cliff forms a crescent shape.
- Mudflow, occurs on steep slopes with saturated soil and little vegetation to bind soil together
What are the types of mass movement?
- Rockfalls, weathering on rock surfaces breaks rock up into pieces that fall.
- Soil Creep, very slow on shallow slopes soil moves down due to increase in mass when it’s wet.
- Landslides, cliffs made from soft rock are lubricated from rainfall so slip.
- Slumping, same as landslides but happens on a concave surface, so the cliff forms a crescent shape.
- Mudflow, occurs on steep slopes with saturated soil and little vegetation to bind soil together
What are ridges and runnels?
Parallel “hills and valleys” of sand found at the low water mark. These are formed due to the interaction of tides, currents and shallow beach topography and so are often formed as breakpoint bars.
What are storm beaches?
A ridge of boulders and shingle found at the back of the beach which have been thrown up to the back of the beach by the largest waves at high tides.
What are cusps?
Semicircular depressions formed by waves breaking directly on the beach with a strong swash and backwash
What are ripples?
Develop on sandy beaches as a result of wave and tidal movements.
What are tides?
The periodic rise and fall of the ocean surface caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun.
What affects the rate of erosion?
- Width of beach (beach dissipates wave energy)
- breaking point of the waves (if wave breaks close to cliff foot there is more power)
- Aspect (if coastilne faces dominant wave direction erosion is faster)
- fetch (longer fetch means more time for energy to build up)
- rock type (hard rocks are more resistant)
What happens in longshore drift?
Swash carries sediment up the beach parallel to prevailing wind. Backwash carries sediment back down at a right angle. It moves sediment along the shoreline.
How do cliffs retreat?
Over time cliffs retreat due to action of waves and weathering which can cause a notch to form at the high water mark, which then develops into a cave. Rock above the cave becomes unstable with nothing to support it and collapses.
When a cliff is eroded, flat surfaces are left behind, this is a wave cut platform.