Coasts Flashcards
What are inputs to the coastal system?
- Energy (waves, tides and currents)
- Sediment
- Biogenic inputs
- Changes in sea level
- Human activities
What are processes in the coastal system?
- Erosion
- Longshore drift
- Deposition
What are outputs of the Coastal System?
- Erosional Landforms
- Depositional Landforms
- Accumulations of sediment above tidal limit
- Loss of wave energy.
What are tides caused by?
The gravitational pull of the moon as it orbits the earth and the sun as it is orbited by the earth.
What is abrasion?
The erosion of shore platforms and cliff bases by the constant grinding action of sand, shingle and boulders over rock surfaces.
What is attrition?
The erosion of the beach material itself, as rocks, boulders and pebbles are constantly knocked against each other in the water.
What is biological weathering and erosion?
The smoothing of rock, especially shore platforms or the drilling of holes and honeycombs by browsing invertebrates such as limpets, burrowing worms and barnacles. Animals burrowing and tree roots can grow into rock joints.
What is corrosion?
Salt water from sea spray is able to corrode many rock types. Also, evaporation of salt and the production of crystals which expand in pores and cracks, causes rocks to disintegrate in coastal environments.
What is hydraulic action?
When pockets of air become trapped and compressed within rock joints or between waves and cliffs. The increased pressure weakens cliff faces and they break.
What is rock quarrying?
Wave action pulling away loose, jointed rock from cliff faces and shore platforms.
What is water layer weathering?
The alternate wetting and drying of the shore platform due to tides and waves, causes a variety of weathering processes to take place including hydration, oxidation and salt crystallisation.
What is freeze thaw?
A type of sub aerial weathering that happens during winter months when water trapped in rock joins or pore spaces within rocks freezes and expands, exerting pressure within the rock. Over time the rock weakens and shatters.
What is salt crystallisation?
At warm temperatures when water evaporates, salt crystals are left behind that grow and exert pressure within the rock causing it to disintegrate.
What are some chemical processes that affect exposed cliffs?
- Hydration, minerals absorb water causing them to swell and disintegrate
- Hydrolysis, when H ions in water react with minerals in rocks causing rock to break down.
- Oxidation, occurs when rocks react with oxygen in the air or water, causing the rock to change colour and disintegrate more easily due to a weakened structure.
How can human activities contribute to sub aerial weathering?
Coastal activities such as rock climbing and mountain biking contribute to increased pressure on coastal paths and may result in footpath and cliff erosion.
Human constructions such as groynes that trap sediment can cause knock on effects down drift, increasing erosion elsewhere.
What are the characteristics of constructive waves?
-Low height (
What are the characteristics of destructive waves?
- High (>1m high)
- High frequency (10-14 per minute)
- Short wavelength (about 20m apart)
- Stronger backwash than swash so material is washed back down the beach resulting in flatter beach profiles.
- Steeper gradient
How do waves develop?
As the wind blows across the surface of the sea, friction causes the water to ripple. As waves form, the surface becomes rougher and it’s easier for the wind to grip the roughened surface and intensify the waves.
What are some factors that affect size of waves?
- Wind speed
- Fetch
- Gradient of beach
How do waves break?
The bottom of the wave touches the sand and slows down due to increased friction. The top of the wave becomes higher and steeper until it topples over.
What are landforms that are wave dominated?
- shore platforms
- cliffs
- beaches
- spits, tombolos
- deltas
What are landforms that are tide dominated?
- mudflats
- sand flats
- salt marshes
- mangroves
- deltas
What landforms are wind dominated?
-sand dunes
What happens when waves approach an irregular coastline?
As the waves approach, they curve and distort. As each wave nears the coast, it drags in the shallow water, causing the wave to become higher and steeper with a shorter wavelength. The part of wave in deeper water moves forward faster, causing the wave to bend. The overall effect is that wave energy becomes concentrated on the headland, causing greater erosion which leads to the development of features such as cliffs, caves and arches. When caves diverge, they lose power and drop their sediment forming beaches.