Coasts Flashcards
Are coasts an open or a closed system
Open system
Inputs
Material or energy moving into the system to the outside. Eg: Precipitation and wind
Output
Material or energy moving from the system to the outside. Eg: Ocean currents, rip tides, sediment transfer and evaporation
Energy
Power or driving force. Eg: Energy associated with flowing water, the effects of gravity on cliffs and moving air
Stores/Components
The individual elements or parts of a system. Eg: beach, sand dunes, nearshore sediment
Flows/transfers
The links between the components. Eg: Wind-blown sand, mass movement processes, longshore drift
Positive feedback
Where a flow/transfer leads to increase or growth. Eg: coastal management leading to an increase in erosion elsewhere
Negative feedback
Where a flow/transfer leads to a decrease or decline
Dynamic equilibrium
This represents a state of balance within a constantly changing system
Wave length
The difference between the two wave crests
Wave crest
The top of the wave
Wave trough
The bottom of the wave
What happens to a wave when it reaches the beach
It starts to create an elliptical wave orbit (the wave motion becomes more like an oval)
Features of a constructive wave (4)
-Low waves with a long wavelength
-Strong swash, weak backswash
-Builds the beach
-Associated with a gentle beach profile but will make the beach steeper over time
Features of a destructive wave (4)
-High waves with short wavelengths
-Weak swash, strong backwash
-Beach loss (destructive)
-Usually associated with a steeper beach profile but will flatten the beach over time
How can constructive and destructive waves be an example of a negative feedback loop?
Constructive waves make a flatter beach steeper, which creates more destructive waves which flatten the beach
Tides
Tides are changes in water levels of seas and oceans caused by the gravitational pull of the moon
Rip currents
Strong localised underwater currents that pull things back out to the sea when things are caught in them
Wave refraction
The distortion of wave fronts as they approach an indented shoreline. This causes wave energy to be concentrated on headlands and dissipated at bays
What are the sources of sediment for a sediment cell (6)
-Rivers
-Cliff erosion
-Longshore drift
-Wind (wind blown sediment)
-Glaciers
-Offshore (sediment being transferred from offshore by waves
Sediment cells
A stretch of coastline, usually bordered by two prominent headlands, where movement of sediment is more or less contained
Sediment budget
The losses and gains of sediment in a sediment cell
Fill in the blank: The sediment budget aims to achieve a state of __________________.
Dynamic equilibrium
Weathering
The breakdown or disintegration of rocks in situ (in place)