Coasts Flashcards
What is a model?
A model is not the real world, but merely a human construct to help us better understand real world systems.
What is a system?
A system is a group of processes that work together to perform a specific function.
What are the three types of system?
- Closed
- Open
- Isolated
What is a closed system?
A closed system is where energy is transferred into and out of the system. All matter is enclosed. An example of this is the carbon cycle.
What is an open system?
An open system is where matter and energy can be transferred from the system to the environment.
What is an isolated system?
An isolated system almost non existent. The only isolated system is the universe.
What is an example of a closed and open system at the coast?
Open system = Beach
Closed system = Sediment cell
What is a positive feedback loop?
Where the effects of an action are amplified by a change.
What is a negative feedback loop?
Where the effects of an action are nullified by a change.
What is a dynamic equilibrium?
This is where the inputs and outputs of a system are equal.
What are some sources of energy at the coast?
- Waves
- Wind
- Tide
- Currents
- Human activity
What are the 5 subsystems on Earth?
- Atmosphere (air)
- Lithosphere (tectonic)
- Hydrosphere (water)
- Biosphere (natural)
- Cryosphere (glacial)
What happens at a irregular coastline?
At an inrregular coastline, the wave bends because different parts of the wave are at different depths. This is a negative feedback loop.
What happens at a straight coastline?
At a straight coastline, when the wave touches the seabed it looses velocity. Prevaillig winds make it paralell to the coastline.
What is a sediment budget?
The sediment budget is the amount of sediment available.
What does an increase in the sediment budget lead to? How about a decrease?
Increase = more deposition
Decrease = more erosion
What is a sediment cell?
A sediment cell is a part of the coast where sediment is largely contained. It is usually between two promenant headlands.
What are the four types of sediment?
Clastic = Weathering of rocks
Biogenic = Skeletons of fish
Non-cohesive = larger particles grain by grain
Cohesive = Smaller clay and mud that joins together
What is the backshore?
Backshore is the area between the high water mark and the limit of marine activity.
What is offshore?
Offshore is where waves have no impact on the beach.
What is the inshore?
The inshore is between the low water mark and where the waves no longer impact the beach.
What is the foreshore?
Foreshore is the area between the high water mark and the low water mark.
What is littoral / longshore drift?
Littoral drift is where sediment is blown up the beach in a zia-zag pattern. It occurs when the swash pushes sediment up the beach, and the backwash along with gravity It transfers sediment from one place to another and protects the cliff from erosion.
What is the thermohaline circulation?
A process driven by the different densities of water. The cold water, which is denser than the hot water, sinks. This process affects the Earths climate by moving hot water around.
What causes different densities in water?
Salt concentration
What is a spring tide?
Spring tides occur after a full moon, when the sun and moon are alligned. This causes larger tides as the sun and moon add onto eachothers gravity
What is a neap tide?
A neap tide is when the sun and moon are at a right angle to eachother. The sun cancells out the moons gravity, leading to moderate tides.
What happens at high tide?
At high tide, erosion and deposition occur higher up the beach.
What happens at low tide?
At low tide, erosion and deposition occur at a similar place at the beach.
What is a current?
A current is large scale movement of water in the oceans.
What is the time difference in between the low tide and high tide?
12 hours and 25 minutes
What is weathering?
Weathering is the breakdown of rocks in situ
What is mechanical weathering?
The breakdown of rocks due to physical factors in the environment.
What is chemical weathering?
The breakdown of rocks due to interaction with air, water or acid.
What is biological weathering?
The breakdown of rocks due to due to plants, animals and micro-organisms
What is freeze-thaw?
Freeze-thaw is a type of weathering where water continually seeps into rocks, and then expands when temperatures drop, and it becomes ice. Over time these cracks become larger until the rock is broken down.