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Geography > Coasts > Flashcards

Coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

What causes waves?

A

Waves are caused by the action of the wind dragging over the surface of the water.

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2
Q

Fill in the blanks:

Waves are caused by the action of the_________ dragging over the surface of the water. The distance of water the wind blows over is called the___________. The______________ the wind has been blowing , the more ___________it has so the waves will be ___________ and more destructive so are likely to __________ the coastline. Waves with lots of energy are called_______________ waves and waves with little energy are______________waves. Constructive waves tend to ________________ material on the coast because they have little energy.

Larger Energy Longer Erode Destructive Deposit Wind Fetch Destructive Constructive

A

Waves are caused by the action of the WIND dragging over the surface of the water. The distance of water the wind blows over is called the FETCH. The LONGER the wind has been blowing, the more ENERGY it has so the waves will be LARGER and more destructive so are likely to ERODE the coastline. Waves with lots of energy are called DESTRUCTIVE waves and waves with little energy are CONSTRUCTIVE waves. Constructive waves tend to DEPOSIT material on the coast because they have little energy.

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3
Q

What effects the size of a wave, and its energy?

A

FETCH & LENGTH OF TIME THE WIND HAS BEEN BLOWING
The distance of water the wind blows over is called the fetch. The longer the wind has been blowing, the more energy it has so the waves will be larger and more destructive so are likely to erode the coastline. Waves with lots of energy are called destructive waves and waves with little energy are constructive waves. Constructive waves tend to deposit material on the coast because they have little energy.

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4
Q

What happens when waves approach a coastline?

A

Waves slow down due to friction with sea bed and start to stack up and increase in height

Base of wave is slowed so top is moving faster causing the wave to break.

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5
Q

Constructive wave

A

Low energy

Found in sheltered bays and spits

Creates sandy gently sloping beaches

Long wavelength, low frequency

Shallow Beach

Strong swash, weak backwash

Eliptical orbit

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6
Q

Destructive Wave

A

High energy

Found in exposed areas

More common in winter

Erodes coastlines and creates steep beaches

Short wavelength, high frequency, high wave height

Weak swash, strong backwash

Steep Beach

Circular orbit

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7
Q

What are the three processes that shape the coastline?

A

Erosion
Transportation
Deposition

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8
Q

Erosion

A

The wearing away of rocks and their removal. There are three types of coastal erosion – abrasion, hydraulic action and attrition. The more energy the waves have the greater the erosion.

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9
Q

Transportation

A

The movement of material carried by waves. It is moved in the water by traction, saltation, suspension and solution but along the coast by longshore drift.

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10
Q

Deposition

A

The laying down of material. Deposited material is called sediment.

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11
Q

Hydraulic action

A

Waves force water into cracks in the rock, this pressure breaks up the rock

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12
Q

Attrition

A

Chunks of rock get knocked together and worn into smaller pieces.

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13
Q

Abrasion

A

The waves throw sand, pebbles and large stones against the rock. They wear it away like sand paper.

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14
Q

What makes waves break?

A

Waves slow down due to friction with sea bed and start to stack up and increase in height

Base of wave is slowed so top is moving faster causing the wave to break.

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15
Q

2 types of waves

A

Constructive & destructive

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16
Q

How does the wave type affect the coastline?

A

Constructive - build beaches - flat, wide beaches

Destructive - erode - steeper beaches

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17
Q

Which wave has a strong backwash?

A

Destructive

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18
Q

What 3 processes does the sea do?

A

Erosion transportation and deposition

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19
Q

Name the 4 types of erosion

A

Hydraulic action, abrasion. Attrition and solution

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20
Q

This is the sheer power of the waves as they smash against the cliff. Air becomes trapped in the cracks in the rock and causes the rock to break apart.

A

Hydraulic action

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21
Q

This is when sediment in the water grinds along the cliffs, much like sandpaper. Over time the rock becomes smooth.

A

Abrasion

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22
Q

This is when rocks that the sea is carrying knock against each other. They break apart to become smaller and more rounded.

A

Attrition

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23
Q

This is when sea water dissolves certain types of rocks. In the UK, chalk and limestone cliffs are prone to this type of erosion

A

Solution

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24
Q

Where small pieces of shingle or large sand grains are bounced along the sea bed.

A

Saltation

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25
Q

Where pebbles and larger material are rolled along the sea bed.

A

Traction

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26
Q

4 types of transportation

A

Traction
Saltation
Suspension
Solution

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27
Q

Draw diagram of longshore drift

A

Your diagram must include the following labels:

Land
Sea
Direction of SWASH
Direction of BACKWASH
Prevailing wind
Wave crests
Direction of longshore drift

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28
Q

Erosion

A

The breaking down of rock and the removal of the rock

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28
Q

In deposition, what weight material is dropped off first?

A

Heaviest - requires the most amount of energy to be transported

The lighter the material the lower the velocity needed to transport it

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29
Q

Weathering

A

Breaking down of rock

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30
Q

Mass movement

A

The downward movement of rock or soil due to gravity. Caused by the weathering of rock and heavy rainfall.

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31
Q

Chemical weathering

A

The breakdown of rocks by changing the chemical composition E.g. carbonation - rainwater is a weak carbonic acid it dissolves rocks that contain calcium carbonate

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32
Q

Mechanical weathering

A

The breakdown of rocks without changing their chemical composition. E.g. freeze thaw weathering (frost shattering)

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33
Q

Chemical weathering e.g

A

E.g. carbonation - rainwater is a weak carbonic acid it dissolves rocks that contain calcium carbonate

34
Q

Mechanical weathering e.g.

A

E.g. freeze thaw weathering (frost shattering)

35
Q

Describe freeze-thaw

A

Water ends in a rock
Water freezes at night and expands by 9%, causing cracks and weaknesses
Process repeated, weathering rock until rock breaks apart

36
Q

Sliding

A

The downhill movement of a large amount of rock, soil and mud.
Occurs on steep cliffs weakened by weathering.
Heavy rain infiltrates the soil and rock causing it to become heavier.
The heavier, saturated (full of water) mass falls in a straight line along a distinct slide plane.
E.g. Jurassic Coast, Dorset

37
Q

Sliding e.g.

A

E.g. Jurassic Coast, Doset

38
Q

Sliding diagram

A

https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1_OABC7_1rWeip6GOIMR4gRloRa88EefTGOaatf4UcNo/edit#slide=id.p22

39
Q

Slumping e.g.

A

E.g. Barton on sea,
Hampshire

40
Q

Slumping

A

Rainwater soaks into the rock.
It becomes too heavy and starts to slide down on the cliff on a curved slip plane.
Loose material collects at bottom.
E.g. Barton on sea,
Hampshire

41
Q

Slumping diagram

A

https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1_OABC7_1rWeip6GOIMR4gRloRa88EefTGOaatf4UcNo/edit#slide=id.p22

42
Q

Rock falls

A

Bare, well-jointed rocks (lines of weakness in rocks) are prone to mechanical weathering which results in falling rocks losing contact with the cliff face.
At the bottom of the cliff they fan out to form scree slopes.
E.g. A 300m section of the Jurassic Coast fell between Seatown and Eype Beach in April 2021

43
Q

Rock falls e.g.

A

E.g. A 300m section of the Jurassic Coast fell between Seatown and Eype Beach in April 2021

44
Q

Outline the characteristics of a destructive wave. (4 marks)

A

Must have two logical links

Backwash greater than swash (1) therefore beaches eroded (1)
High energy waves (1) due to greater fetch (1) so over higher than 1m (1)
Short wave length (1) so has a high frequency 10-14 per minute

45
Q

Concordant

A

Rock types run parallel to the coast

46
Q

Discordant

A

Rock types run perpendicular to the coast

47
Q

Characteristic of a headland

A

Near vertical cliff face
High energy area affected by destructive waves
Hard rock jutting out into sea
Caves arches stacks and stumps can form

48
Q

Characteristic of a bay

A

Crescent-shaped indentation in the coastline between two headlands
Soft rock e.g. sand or clay
Low-energy constructive waves

49
Q

Characteristics of a wave cut platform

A

Gently sloping platform
Smoothed in place by abrasion
Deep cracks in places
Pitted appearance with small rock pools showing at low tide
Covered at high tide

50
Q

Describe how a headland is eroded

A

As the wave approaches the coast it takes on the shape of the coastline.

Waves converge on the headland, concentrating more energy on the headland, increasing the rate of erosion.

51
Q

Embryo dune

A

A newly formed sand dune closest to the sea

52
Q

Embryo dune

A

A newly formed sand dune closest to the sea

53
Q

Marram grass

A

A plant found in sand dunes that has long binding roots

54
Q

Saltation

A

How sand is bounced along by the wind

55
Q

Crest

A

The top of the sand dune

56
Q

Water table

A

The upper horizontal limit of the wet sand

57
Q

Dune slack

A

Where there is a trough or low point in a line of dunes

58
Q

Leeward slope

A

The slope that faces away from the wind

59
Q

Windward slope

A

The slope that faces the wind

60
Q

Describe how sand dunes are formed

A
  1. Sand dunes are formed when sand is moved up the beach by the wind by saltation.
  2. Obstacles (driftwood) cause wind speeds to decrease so sand is deposited.
  3. This then builds up over time forming hummocks.
  4. The sand is then colonised by plants and grasses - this stabilises the sand and encourages more sand to accumulate there. Forming small dunes called embryo dunes
  5. Over time the oldest dunes migrate inland as newer embryo dunes are formed.
  6. These mature dunes can reach heights of up to 10 m
61
Q

Why don’t bays erode much

A

Waves diverge in the bays so waves lose their energy and so deposit material. This forms a beach

62
Q

CCASS

A

Large crack:
hydraulic action, or salt weathering

cave:
hydraulic action and abrasion

The cave becomes larger

waves converge
the headland is eroded.

caves may join:
arch

arch collapses

Stack

stack undercut & eroded
Stump

63
Q

Physical reasons why management is needed on Holderness coast
(4)

A

NARROW BEACHES -so don’t stop the waves hitting the base of the cliffs at high tide

STRONG WAVES because Fetch of waves about 500-800km across the north sea.

SOFT ROCK - Boulder clay so less resistant to erosion

CLIMATE CHANGE is increasing the number of storms so more strong waves that erode the cliffs

64
Q

Average erosion rate Holderness coast

A

It is one of the fastest eroding coastlines in Europe. Average erosion rate is 1.2m per year.

65
Q

Human reasons management is needed
(4)

A

Tourist economy - creates jobs and wealth for the area

Large populations at Bridlington, Hornsea (8000), Withernsea and Mappleton

To protect the main road B1242 that connects these towns

Gas supply - ¼ of UK’s gas comes here

66
Q

Management strategies on Holderness coast and where
(7 places)

A

Bridlington:
4.7km Sea wall

Hornsea:
Concrete sea wall, rock armour and wooden groynes

Mappleton:
2 Rock groynes

Aldbrough & Ringbrough:
Do nothing

Withernsea:
Rock armour and sea wall

Easington:
Rock armour

Spurn Head (nature reserve):
Managed retreat

67
Q

Facts about conflict about coastal management on Holderness coast because of groynes
(2)

A

Erosion faster below Mappleton bc no LSD
(Great Cowden’s farm: 80,000m^2 farmland lost/year)

Less LSD
potential loss of important habitats at Spurn Head Nature Reserve

68
Q

How much has been spent defending Easington gas terminal

A

£4.5m

69
Q

What defends Easington gas terminal

A

rock armour

69
Q

What is the rock type on the Holderness coast ?

A

Boulder clay

70
Q

How large is the fetch on the Holderness coast ?

A

500-800km

71
Q

What is the population of Hornsea?

A

8000

72
Q

What is the name of the main road on Holderness coast near Hornsea

A

B1242

73
Q

What percentage of the UK’s gas supplies come into Easington

A

25%

74
Q

Climate change’s effect on erosion on Holderness coast

A

Increased erosion bc more storms so more desructive waves

75
Q

How many houses in Mappleton

A

~50

76
Q

1991 how much was spent on 2 rock groynes and a rock revetment to protect Mappleton

A

£2 million

77
Q

1980 erosion rate in Mappleton

A

2m/year

78
Q

August 2015
What happened in Mappleton

A

large crack appeared in the top of the cliff to the south of the defences

79
Q

Since 1991, what has happened to the erosion rate of Mappleton

A

Increaced significantly

80
Q

Beach south of Mappelton?

A

Little beach

81
Q
A

Geography (4 decks)

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