coasts Flashcards
coastal systems: define open system
system where there are inputs and outputs of both matter and energy
coastal systems: define inputs
addition to a system
coastal systems: define stores
a sink - where material is retained for a period of time
coastal systems: define flows
movement of material and energy between stores
coastal systems: define outputs
loses from a system
coastal systems: define dynamic equilibrium
systems where inputs and outputs are balanced
coastal systems: define positive feedback
cycle where the effect grows stronger, moving the system further from equilibrium
coastal systems: define negative feedback
cycle where the effect weakens, bringing the system back to the equilibrium
coastal systems: define sediment cells
a self-contained section of coastline where material cycles
coastal systems: define sediment budget
the difference between the inputs and outputs of material in a coastal environment - a determination of erosion and deposition
coastal systems: define closed system
system with inputs and outputs of energy, but not material.
coastal processes: define fetch
distance over the water that the wind blows
coastal processes: define prevailing winds
the most common direction the wind blows
coastal processes: define constructive wave
low and flat wave frequently associated with swells that have long wavelengths
coastal processes: define destructive wave
wave frequently associated with storm conditions that have a short wavelength and high frequencies
coastal processes: define wave refraction
curving of a wave as a headland is reached, causing erosion on the headlands sides
coastal processes: define swash
the uprush of incoming waves onto a beach
coastal processes: define backwash
the return of waves down the beach towards the sea
coastal processes: define tidal range
the difference between high and low tide in a coastal zone
coastal processes: define spring tide
the tides with the highest tidal range caused by full or new moons
coastal processes: define neap tide
the tides with the lowest tidal range caused by first and third quarter moons
coastal processes: define intertidal zone
area of the coast between the high and low tides
coastal processes: define high-energy coastline
areas of shore where there is more erosion then there is deposition causing cliffs and headlands to form because the waves are large with high erosive power
coastal processes: define low-energy coastline
areas of shore where there is more deposition then there is erosion, allowing beaches to form because the waves are small with less erosive power
coastal processes: define currents
flow of water around a coastline
coastal processes: define physical weathering
the in situ breakdown of rocks by the action of frost, water and temperature fluctuations
coastal processes: define chemical weathering
the in situ breakdown of rock resulting from the action of weak acids contained within seawater
coastal processes: define biological weathering
the in situ breakdown of rock resulting from the action of living organisms
coastal processes: define mass movement
the down-slope transport of soil, bedrock, rock debris or mud on steep coastlines, above the influence of waves
coastal processes: define erosion
the breakup and transport away of rock and material within a coastal environment
coastal processes: define hydraulic action
water compresses air into gaps in a rock face, creating high pressures followed by expansion that can cause rocks to break apart when repeated
coastal processes: define abrasion
pebbles transported in the sea grinds against, and are hurled against cliffs causing erosion
coastal processes: define solution
chemical attack upon rocks causing them to dissolve
coastal processes: define attrition
rocks transported in the sea are slowly worn down into smaller, increasingly round pieces as they are swirled around
coastal processes: define transport
movement of material around the coast by water and wind
coastal processes: define traction
large particles are rolled across the sea floor because they are too heavy to be suspended, such as pebbles
coastal processes: define saltation
waves and currents bounce larger material across the sea bed - there is insufficient energy available to constantly suspend the material
coastal processes: define suspension
fine sediment requires very little energy for it to be maintained within the water column, therefore it will remain there for a long time
coastal processes: define solution
transport of dissolved load