Coasts Flashcards

1
Q

Four zones of coast

A

offshore
nearshore
foreshore
backshore

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2
Q

How do waves affect coastal environments?

A

Wave action
When wind blows across the surface of seas and oceans, energy from moving air is transferred to water surface to generate waves

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3
Q

What are tides?

A

Daily alternate rising and falling of sea level along coasts caused mainly by gravitational pull of moon & sun on earth

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4
Q

What are crest and trough?

A

Crest: highest part of wave
Trough: lowest part of wave

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5
Q

What are currents?

A

large scale and persistent movements of water in seas and oceans driven by prevailing winds which generally blow in one direction

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6
Q

How do currents affect coastal environments?

A

Distribute sediments as they carry large amounts of energy and shape coasts through the processes of coastal erosion, sediment transport and deposition

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7
Q

How does current produce milder climate in coastal areas?

A

They regulate temperatures by transporting cool water away from the north and south poles towards equator, and move warm water to the poles.

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8
Q

What happens to wave height and wavelength when wave breaks on shore?

A

Wave height: increase
Wavelength: decrease

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9
Q

What is swash?

A

When wave breaks and runs up on the beach

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10
Q

What is backwash?

A

When a wave retreats back to the seas

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11
Q

Constructive waves have…

A
  • low energy, deposit materials
  • strong swash, weak backwash
  • creates sandy beaches with gentle slopes
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12
Q

Destructive waves

A
  • high energy, break violently on shore
  • strong backwash, weak swash
  • coasts are eroded away
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12
Q

HEADLANDS OR BAYS?

Where do waves bend to?

A

BAYS

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13
Q

HEADLANDS OR BAYS

Where does waves diverge?

A

HEADLANDS

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14
Q

Name the 4 ways of coastal erosion

A
  1. Hydraulic action
  2. Abrasion
  3. Attrition
  4. Solution
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15
Q

Describe Hydraulic action.

A

Air may be trapped in cracks when waves crash
Trapped air is compressed repeatedly by oncoming waves
this weakens the cliff

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16
Q

Describe abrasion

A

Small rocks are hurled towards cliff by waves
They grind down the surfaces and weaken them

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16
Q

Describe Attrition

A

Waves smash rock and pebbles on shore into each other
They break up and become smooth and rounder

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16
Q

Describe Solution

A

Chemicals in seawater react and dissolves certain rock

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16
Q

Describe longshore drift

A

Currents flowing parallel to coast
Combined effect of sediment transport by beach drift and longshore current

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17
Q

Describe beach drift

A

zig zag movement along the beach due to swash and backwash

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18
Q

What is a cliff and how is it produced?

A

Steep and near vertical rock face along coasts
Produced by action of waves undercutting a steep rock coast

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19
Q

What are headlands?

A

Extensions of bedrock jutting out into the sea usually with a cliff

20
Q

Define Bays

A

Bodies of water connected to the seas due to surrounding land blocking off some waves

21
Describe formation of headlands and bays
Waves move towards coast made of alternate strips of more and less resistant rocks Softer rocks erode to form bays and harder rocks remain to form headlands
22
What is a spit?
sand that sticks out into the sea but is joined to the land at one end
23
What is the difference between tombolo and spit?
Tombolo connects 2 islands together
24
How is spit formed?
Longshore drift carry material along coast When there is a abrupt bend in coastline, longshore drift continues to transport materials the original direction When material enter sea, deposition occur and accumulate and appear above water surface.
25
How are caves formed?
Within headlands, there are some less resistant rocks, eroded faster. Waves force their way into line of weakness such as joints/fault and undercut it
26
How is arch formed?
Formation of caves then hollowed out by wave action some more
27
How is stack formed?
When roof of arch collapse
28
3 MAIN ways people use coastal area
1. fisheries 2. housing 3. tourism
29
Give example of how people use coastal areas for fisheries
Vietnam, Ca Mau shrimp production centre, mangrove areas cleared grown rapidly to US$800M in 2010
30
Give example on how people use coastal areas for housing
Kukup, Malaysia stilt house community, floating fish farms sell fresh fish and other marine products and use boats as transport
31
Give example on how people use coastal areas for tourism
Sentosa singapore resort island with many recreational facilities e.g. OneMarina club is a harbour with whafts providing maintenance for yachts and boats, recreational boating facilities
32
Describe coral reef ecosystems
structure found at or slightly below sea level on seabed built by tiny animals aka coral polyps
33
Describe the distribution of coral reefs
Mainly between Tropic of Cancer and Capricorn
34
Conditions for coral reef growth
Sea surface temp: not lower than 17-18 DEGREES Sunlight received: clear saline water required for algae photosynthesis No sedimentation moderate water motion for corals to receive oxygen
35
Why are coral reefs important?
maintain natural ecosystem, supports more than 25% of earth marine species for breeding and growing source of food and habitat absorb wave energy
36
5 ways corals are threatened
Overcollection of corals Fishing methods Climate change Recreational use of coast Coastal development
37
Where are mangroves distributed?
Between tropic of cancer and capricorn
38
What are some features of mangroves?
Aerial roots to take in air when they are not submerged Prop roots to anchor them firmly in the soft mud Javelin shape and buoyant fruit that is easy to germinate
39
Value of mangrove in environments
Dense network of roots, stabilise shorelines, slow down water flow, build up sediments to protect coastal areas
40
4 pressure ways that threaten mangroves
Coastal development Conversion to other land use Rising sea level Increased demand for wood and charcoal
41
5 hard engineering measures for coastal protection
Seawall Groyne Gabion Breakwater Tetrapods
42
3 laws and regulation methods to manage coastal areas
Limit damaging activities Protect coastal resource Restrict development in areas prone to natural hazards
43
3 Soft engineering measures
Planting vegetation and stabilising dunes Beach nourishment Encouraging coral reef growth
44
Pros and Cons of beach nourishment
pros: transform coast into wide sandy beach, provides immediate protection to inland area cons: time consuming & costly
45
Pros and Cons of encouraging coral reef growth:
Pros: weaken wave energy & provide breeding ground for fish Cons: rate of coral growth may be very slow
46
Pros and Cons of planting vegetation and stabilising dunes
pros: roots hold sand firmly to the ground and prevent erosion cons: takes time, costly to maintain dunes, non-resistant to natural elements and human elements e.g. vandalism&storms
47
Pros and Cons of limiting damaging activities to manage coast areas sustainably
Pros: balance needs and demands of people to access or develop the coastal areas EX building fences Cons: beach becomes less attractive and prevent local people and visitors from accessing to all parts of the beach
48
Pros and Cons of Seawall
Pros: absorb wave energy Cons: require constant repair and is costly to build and maintain
49
Pros and Cons of gabions
Pros: absorb wave energy better than seawalls , more effective in defending against high energy waves Cons: unsightly, costly, corroded by seawater easily
50
Pros and Cons of Groynes
Pros: absorb energy of waves so materials can be deposited on updrift side of groynes facing longshore drift Cons:
51
Pros and Cons of Breakwaters
Pros: break force of incoming waves, allows deposition and accumulation of materials to form beaches Cons: unsightly costly, protect coast unevenly
52
Pros and Cons of Tetrapods
Pros: can be used quickly to protect coast from wave attack, less likely to be damaged by waves Cons: unappealing, costly, dangerous to beach users