Coasts Flashcards
Four zones of coast
offshore
nearshore
foreshore
backshore
How do waves affect coastal environments?
Wave action
When wind blows across the surface of seas and oceans, energy from moving air is transferred to water surface to generate waves
What are tides?
Daily alternate rising and falling of sea level along coasts caused mainly by gravitational pull of moon & sun on earth
What are crest and trough?
Crest: highest part of wave
Trough: lowest part of wave
What are currents?
large scale and persistent movements of water in seas and oceans driven by prevailing winds which generally blow in one direction
How do currents affect coastal environments?
Distribute sediments as they carry large amounts of energy and shape coasts through the processes of coastal erosion, sediment transport and deposition
How does current produce milder climate in coastal areas?
They regulate temperatures by transporting cool water away from the north and south poles towards equator, and move warm water to the poles.
What happens to wave height and wavelength when wave breaks on shore?
Wave height: increase
Wavelength: decrease
What is swash?
When wave breaks and runs up on the beach
What is backwash?
When a wave retreats back to the seas
Constructive waves have…
- low energy, deposit materials
- strong swash, weak backwash
- creates sandy beaches with gentle slopes
Destructive waves
- high energy, break violently on shore
- strong backwash, weak swash
- coasts are eroded away
HEADLANDS OR BAYS?
Where do waves bend to?
BAYS
HEADLANDS OR BAYS
Where does waves diverge?
HEADLANDS
Name the 4 ways of coastal erosion
- Hydraulic action
- Abrasion
- Attrition
- Solution
Describe Hydraulic action.
Air may be trapped in cracks when waves crash
Trapped air is compressed repeatedly by oncoming waves
this weakens the cliff
Describe abrasion
Small rocks are hurled towards cliff by waves
They grind down the surfaces and weaken them
Describe Attrition
Waves smash rock and pebbles on shore into each other
They break up and become smooth and rounder
Describe Solution
Chemicals in seawater react and dissolves certain rock
Describe longshore drift
Currents flowing parallel to coast
Combined effect of sediment transport by beach drift and longshore current
Describe beach drift
zig zag movement along the beach due to swash and backwash
What is a cliff and how is it produced?
Steep and near vertical rock face along coasts
Produced by action of waves undercutting a steep rock coast