Coasts Flashcards

1
Q

What is the fetch of wind

A

The distance over which the wind has blown

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2
Q

Describe destructive waves

A

-Large wave height
-Strong backwash
-Weak swash
-More frequent

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3
Q

Describe Constructive

A

-Small wave height
-Weak backwash
-Strong swash
-Less frequent

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4
Q

Definition of weathering

A

Weakening or decay of rocks in their original place on, or close to the ground surface

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5
Q

Mass movement definition

A

Downward movement or sliding of material under the influence of gravity

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6
Q

Erosion definition

A

The wearing away and renewable of material by force, such as a breaking wave.

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7
Q

Transportation definition

A

The movement of eroded material

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8
Q

Mechanical weathering

A

Weathering - Freeze thaw.
Water freezes and expands the crack, then melts and more water gets in. repeats till rock breaks.

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9
Q

Chemical weathering

A

Weather - slightly acidic rain dissolves certain types of rock and minerals

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10
Q

Biological weathering

A

weathering - When flora fauna weaken rocks, for example tree roots growing cracks in the cliff or rabbits burrowing in cliffs

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11
Q

Rockfall

A

Mass movement -When fragments of rock break away from the cliff due to freeze-thaw weathering

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12
Q

Landslide

A

Mass movement -When blocks of rock slide downhill

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13
Q

Mudflow

A

Mass movement -When saturated soil and weak rock flow down a slope over 10°

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14
Q

Rotational slip/slumping

A

Mass movement -When saturated soil and weak rock slump along a curved surface

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15
Q

Abrasion

A

Erosion -When fragments of rock are picked up by the sea and hurled at the cliff

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16
Q

hydraulic action

A

Erosion -When the waves power trap air in the cliffs cracks causing cavitation

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17
Q

Attrition

A

Erosion - When rocks knock against each other causing them to become small, smooth and rounded

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18
Q

Solution

A

Erosion- The dissolving of soluble chemicals in the rock

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19
Q

Traction

A

transportation -when large pebbles are rolled along the seabed

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20
Q

saltation

A

transportation-the bouncing motion of smaller pebbles along the seabed

21
Q

suspension

A

transpiration - when particles are in the water

22
Q

solution

A

Transportation- dissolved chemical often derived from limestone or chalk

23
Q

longshoreman drift

A

The zig zag pattern of sediment along the beach due to a diagonal slash and a vertical backwash

24
Q

Geology definition

A

The study of the earths crust.
With coasts the most important feature is the type of rock in the area, some being hard and some soft which are more easily eroded.

25
Q

Discordant coastlines

A

this is where the coastline is made up of both hard and soft rock, They are usually at right angles to coast.

26
Q

Concordant coastline

A

Where the coastline is made up of the same type of rock. Waves cut through the narrow entrance to the cove and then rapidly eroded the soft rock behind.

27
Q

Discordant coastline

A

Where the coastline is made up of both hard and soft rock. Usually at right angles to the coast

28
Q

Cliff retreat

A
  1. Weather weakens the top of the cliff
  2. The sea attacks base of cliff forming wave cut notch
  3. Notch size increases causing cliff to collapse
  4. The backwash carries rubble forming wave-cut platform
  5. The process repeats and cliff continues to retreat
29
Q

How caves, arched stacks and stumps are formed

A

-Fault is widened to a notch by hydraulic action and abrasion
-Continued erosion turns a notch into a cave
-Contiuned erosion of sea caves on either side of a headland will form an arch
-A sea stack is eroded leaving a stack
-When the roof of a stack collapses it leaves a sea stump

30
Q

How are spits formed

A

Takes place on coasts where there is significant longshore drift.
If the coastline changes orientation and bends sharply sediment is deposited out to sea.
As it builds up it starts to form an extension from the land.

31
Q

Spit definition

A

A long narrow finger of sand or shingle jutting out into the sea from the land

32
Q

How are recurved ends formed on the end spits

A

strong winds or tidal currents can cause the end spit to become curved

33
Q

How are salt marshes formed behind spits

A

Deposits of mud build in the sheltered water behind the spit. Vegetation may start to grow in the muddy island

34
Q

how are bars formed

A

when longshoreman drifts cause spit to grow right across a bay trapping a freshwater lake behind it.

35
Q

Longshore drift process

A

-Waves approach beach at angle due to wind direction
-Swash moves material up beach at this angle
-Due to gravity, the backwash will move material back down the beach at a right angle to the shoreline
-This process repeats
-and material is moved down the beach in zig-zag pattern
-deposited due to the constructive waves

36
Q

How are sand dunes created

A

-Sediment is brought into land by the sea, sand is blown over an obstacle like driftwood, a dead animal or a rock
-When the sand comes into contact with the obstacle the wind loses velocity (it slows down) and the sand is deposited
-This makes an embryo dune at the front of the sand dune system
-Over time plants like marram grass start to grows and the roots hold the sand in place
-Dunes steadily get bigger as you move back from coast and the amount of vegetation increases.

37
Q

what is a dune slack

A
  • A dune slack is where the wind has moved the sand and water starts to fill the hollow
38
Q

mobile dune

A

Rocks, plants and debris can encourage sand to build up

39
Q

Embryo dune

A

plants like sand couch and lyme grass bind sand together

40
Q

fore dunes

A

up to 20m high plants like marram and sea holly

41
Q

Adaptations for marram grass (bottom to top)

A

-Root systems : taps into water condensed in the sand in its upper layer
-Stems : can grow quickly and elongate so it can emerge from deposited sand
-Woody tissue : is tough/strong to give plants stability in wind
-Leaves : Inner sides have hair to help leaf close and trap water.
Inner side has stomata sunk in protected pits which limits water loss from stomata.

42
Q

Beach nourishment

A

-Soft
-Takes material from the sea bed and dumps onto shore so sand replaced along beach
-Advantage : makes beach more effective at breaking energy of waves up
-Disadvantage : Has to be continuously carried out so expensive. Dredger used is noisy and upsets tourism and kills marine life

43
Q

Dune regeneration

A

-Soft
-Artificially creates new sand dunes to barrier between land and sea - using marram grass and encouraging dune formations protects by absorbing storm/wave energy
-Advantage : Makes beach more effective at breaking up the energy of the waves
-Disadvantage : Time consuming to plant grass + fence off areas, £2000 per 100m. Less effective than hard engineering.

44
Q

Beach profiling

A

-Soft
-Shaping the beach so it absorbs more energy during storms
-Advantages : Works well
-Disadvantage : Doesn’t look natural, bulldozers noisy, needs to happen regularly, cliffs vulnerable for erosion

45
Q

Managed retreat

A

-Soft
-Remive existing defences and allows land behind them to flood
-Advantages: fairly cheap, marshland natural defence and habitats
-Disadvantages : Not everyone will agree on what land should be flooded potentially causing conflict

46
Q

Sea wall

A

-Hard
-Concrete barrier along coast which takes impact of waves
-Advantages : Prevents erosion and lasts around 100 years
-Disadvantages : Have to be maintained and repaired, building costs £5,000-£10,000, ugly and unnatural

47
Q

Groynes

A

-Hard
-Wooden fences or wall built out into sea which reduces the rate at which longshore drift occurs by trapping it on one side
-Advantages : Average life span 30-40
-Disadvantages : Causes greater rates of erosion further down the coast, costs around £150,000

48
Q

Rock armour

A

-Hard
-Placed at base of cliff to absorb a energy of the waves but let the water drain through
-Advantages : Relatively cheap at £1000 per cube meter, lasts around 120 years, use natural resources
-Disadvantages : Some erosion still staked place as they let water through, easily moved by waves, look ugly.

49
Q

Gabions

A

-Hard
-Wired cages filled with boulders to keep beach together. Protect coastline from waves/erosion and encourage sand dunes
-Advantages : Encourage sand dunes which help protect from erosion
-Disadvantages : Short term only last 5-10 years, cages are easily rusted, coast £50,000 per 100m.