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Physical Geography > Coastal Zone Knowledge > Flashcards

Coastal Zone Knowledge Flashcards

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1
Q

What three factors effect the size of waves

A

The winds strength
How long the wind blows for
The length of the water the wind blows over (fetch)

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2
Q

What causes a wave to break

A

The friction between the water and the beach

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3
Q

Name the two different types of wave

A

Destructive

Constructive

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4
Q

Which way does the backwash go

A

Away from the beach

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5
Q

Which way does the swash go

A

Up the beach

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6
Q

Give four features if a destructive wave

A

High (in proportion to length)
Backwash is stronger
Frequent waves
Erosion occurs more

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7
Q

Give four features of a constructive waves

A

Low
Deposition occurs more than erosion
Swash is more powerful than the backwash
Less frequent waves

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8
Q

Name the three types of weathering

A

Mechanical
Chemical
Biological

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9
Q

Describe the freeze thaw process

A

Water gets into rocks through pores
The water freezes and expands by 9%
The expansion splits up the rock

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10
Q

Describe exfoliation

A

Large temperatures differences cause the rocks to expand and contract which leads to the top layer flaking off

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11
Q

Why does the rain cause chemical weathering

A

Rocks made up of calcium carbonate is rained on by rain that is naturally slightly acidic dissolves then

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12
Q

What causes waves

A

The friction between the wind and water

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13
Q

Describe biological weathering

A

Plants roots and animal burrows breaking away the cliff

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14
Q

Define mass movement

A

The downhill movement of sediment under the influence of gravity

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15
Q

Describe hydraulic action in a costal environment

A

The waves force water into cracks causing air pockets to compress thus making the cracks break open

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16
Q

Describe abrasion in a costal context

A

Loose rocks and stones are hurled against the cliff

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17
Q

How does longshore drift occur

A

Swash brings sediment up at an angle
Back swash brings it back down at 90 degrees due to gravity
Overall there is movement one way

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18
Q

Why is more sediment depositoed in bays

A

Because the wave energy is much less in bays

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19
Q

What is the name for bands of soft or hard rock

A

Strata

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20
Q

Which two ways can strata be arranged

A

Concordantly or disconcordantly

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21
Q

Bays and headlines are more likely to from at which type of coast

A

Disconcordant

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22
Q

What is a better name for a “bite” out of a cliff

A

A notch

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23
Q

Why do cliffs collapse

A

Erosion creates a notch once this becomes to big the cliff collapses

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24
Q

What does cliff retreat form

A

A wave cut platform

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25
Q

Why are wave cut platforms most often very smooth

A

Because of abrasion

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26
Q

Can headland erode

A

Yes

27
Q

Describe the formation of an arch

A

Hydraulic action widens points of weakness in the cliff to form small caves. More erosion still increases the size of the cave until it becomes an arch

28
Q

Describe how an arch can turn into a stump

A

Overtime more erosion takes place on the arch until it collapses. Forming a stack. The stack is undercut by erosion until it to collapses leaving just a bit if rock above water called a stump

29
Q

What is a beach

A

An accumulation of sand or shingle

30
Q

What process causes beaches to be formed paticularly in bays

A

Wave refraction

31
Q

What is a spit

A

A bank of sand that is off the coastline which has been out there by longshore drift

32
Q

What forms begins a spit

A

Mudflats

33
Q

What makes a spit more likely to stay

A

Plants colonising it as the roots bind the sand

34
Q

What forms behind a bar

A

A freshwater lake or lagoon

35
Q

What is the biggest cause of rising sea levels

A

Thermal expansion

36
Q

Other than thermal expansion what are two other reasons why sea levels rise

A

Isostatic change

Melting ice caps

37
Q

Name two small islands that are at risk from sea level rising

A

Maldives and Tuvalu

38
Q

Name 3 causes of costal flooding and increased costal erosion

A

Tides (spring tides)
Storm surges
Waves

39
Q

What three things cause cliff collapse

A

Weathering
Erosion
Mass movement

40
Q

What creates a storm surge

A

An area of low pressure such as a cyclone

41
Q

What is meant by spring tide

A

A tide that rises greater than usual because the sun and moon are in alignment and so the gravitational force is greater

42
Q

What role does erosion have to play in cliff collapse and which types do it

A

Hydraulic action and abrasion erode the bass if the cliff

43
Q

What process erodes the top of a cliff

A

Weathering eg chemical

44
Q

Describe why when the top layer of rock is saturated it can lead to costal erosion

A

The cliff has gained weight making it more likely to collapse, furthermore more water will run off the cliff and run off the face

45
Q

How do humans increase the chances of cliff collapse

A

By building

46
Q

Describe four methods used to prevent cliff collapse

A

Flatten the slopes to prevent mass movement
Inserting drainage
Place rock armour at the base
Putting Geotextiles (which allow water out) on the cliff

47
Q

How much do sea walls cost per km

A

About £6 million

48
Q

What are the pros of sea walls

A

Effective and used as a promenade

49
Q

What are the negatives of sea walls

A

Expansive

Unnatural

50
Q

What specific negatives do groynes have

A

They interrupt longshore drift and are very ugly

51
Q

What is the cost of groynes and rock armour

A

Groynes £10,000 each (200m intervals)

Rock armour £1000-£4000 per meter

52
Q

What common advantages do rock armour and groynes have

A

Fishing, effective

53
Q

How do groynes work

A

They trap sand and increase the size of the beach meaning more energy is dissipated

54
Q

Where is rock armour often placed

A

At the foot of the cliff

55
Q

How does beach nourishment work

A

By adding sand and shingle on to the beach

56
Q

How does dune regeneration work

A

Martha’s grass is planted to build or stabilise dunes which act as a barrier to the water

57
Q

How does Marsh creation work

A

Allowing coastal areas to become salt marches which are effective costal barriers

58
Q

What are the problems with marsh creation or managed retreat

A

Loses land meaning that the owners must be compensated

59
Q

Name the four types of dune in order moving from the sea outwards

A

Embryo dunes
Fore dunes
Main ridge/ yellow dunes
Older dunes / grey dunes

60
Q

What plants may you find on an embryo dune

A

Sea couch grass

61
Q

Which two types of dune does marram grass grow most commonly

A

Fire dunes and main ridge

62
Q

What plants may be found on the oldest dunes

A

Dune Heath, buckthorn

63
Q

Describe as many conditions in which a dune is likely to form

A 
Exposed between tides 
Prevailing onshore wind 
Fine sand 
Arid 
Salt spray 
Alkaline conditions

Physical Geography (17 decks)

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