coastal processes and waves Flashcards

1
Q

what is deposition

A

when the water looses energy it drops the rock particles it has been transporting

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2
Q

explain traction

A

large sediment are rolled along the sea bed

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3
Q

explain solution

A

salt and acid dissolve the rocks on the land

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4
Q

explain saltation

A

sediment is bounced along the sea bed

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5
Q

explain suspension

A

small particles carried by the water can make it look cloudy

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6
Q

explain long shore drift

A

zig-zag movement of material along the beach determined by the dominant wind direction

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7
Q

what causes waves

A

wind blowing over the surface of the sea creates friction so energy is transferred

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8
Q

what things determine the size of waves

A

how strong wind is, length of fetch, how long wind has been blowing

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9
Q

what is fetch

A

maximum distance of open water over which the wind can blow longer fetch mans larger wave

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10
Q

what is swash

A

waves moving up the beach at an angle

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11
Q

what is backwash

A

waves coming straight back down the beach under the influence of gravity

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12
Q

what characteristics do constructive waves have

A

low height+frequency,strong swash,weak backwash

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13
Q

what characteristics do destructive waves have

A

large height+frequency,strong backwash,weak swash

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