coastal processes and waves Flashcards
what is deposition
when the water looses energy it drops the rock particles it has been transporting
explain traction
large sediment are rolled along the sea bed
explain solution
salt and acid dissolve the rocks on the land
explain saltation
sediment is bounced along the sea bed
explain suspension
small particles carried by the water can make it look cloudy
explain long shore drift
zig-zag movement of material along the beach determined by the dominant wind direction
what causes waves
wind blowing over the surface of the sea creates friction so energy is transferred
what things determine the size of waves
how strong wind is, length of fetch, how long wind has been blowing
what is fetch
maximum distance of open water over which the wind can blow longer fetch mans larger wave
what is swash
waves moving up the beach at an angle
what is backwash
waves coming straight back down the beach under the influence of gravity
what characteristics do constructive waves have
low height+frequency,strong swash,weak backwash
what characteristics do destructive waves have
large height+frequency,strong backwash,weak swash