coastal processes and landforms Flashcards

1
Q

hydraulic action

A

-air trapped in cracks compressed by force of waves crashing against cliffs
-air trapped experiences greater force in next cycle of compression
-disloges blocks of rock from the cliff face

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2
Q

what rock type is vulnerable to hydraulic action

A

-heavily jointed/fissured sedimentary rocks
-in very hard igneous rocks, may be only erosive process operating

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3
Q

abraison

A

-sediment picked up is thrown against the cliff face
-chiselling away at surface
-wear down by removing small rock particles

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4
Q

influence of lithology on abraison

A

-subtly loose sediment has to be available like shingle or pebbles
-softer sedimentary more vulnerable than hard igneous rocks

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5
Q

influence of lithology on attrition

A

-softer rocks very rapidly reduced in size

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6
Q

attrition

A

-acts on already eroded sediment
-collisions between particles chip fragments of sediment
-sediment becomes smaller and rounded

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7
Q

what is a landscape (describe questions)

A

-two or more landforms

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8
Q

how does a wave cut platform form

A

-sea attacks base of cliff and undercut forming a wave notch
-notch becmes larger and weight of cliff causes it to collapse
-as cliff collapses, rubble washes away by waves causing abraison and forming a wave cut platform

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9
Q

steps of how a wave cut notch formed

A

-cracks at base of headland in inter tidal zone become exposed through hydraulic action
-cracks widened by weathering processes like salt crystallisation
-cracks develop into wave cut notches

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10
Q

how does a cave form

A

-abraison and hydraulic action deepen notch to form caves
-bc of wave refraction, destructive waves concentrate energy on sides of headland, deepens the cave

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11
Q

how do archs form

A

-wave refraction affects all 3 sides of headland and if 2 waves align, waves may cut through to form arch

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12
Q

how to stacks form

A

vertical joints exposed by tall breakers associated with destructive waves, over time arch becomes unstable and collapses under own weight to form a stack

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13
Q

whats swash aligned

A

-wind blowing directly onshore

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14
Q

whats drift aligned

A

-wind blowing in at an angle

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15
Q

what causes the waves to come back down at 90 degree

A

-friction from beach dissipates wave energy

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16
Q

what is wave approach angle determined by

A

-prevailing wind

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17
Q

whats traction

A

-when sediment rolls along pushed by waves and currents

18
Q

whats saltation

A

when sediment bounces either due to force of water or wind

19
Q

whats suspension

A

sediment carried in water column

20
Q

whats solution

A

dissolved material carried in water in solution

21
Q

what influences transportation

A

-currents

22
Q

whats currents

A

-flows of seawater in a particular direction driven by winds or differences in water density, salinity or temperature

23
Q

what are two depositional processes

A

-gravity settling
-flocculation
-occurs when energy of transporting water becomes too low

24
Q

whats gravity settling

A

-large sediment deposited first followed by smaller sediment

25
Q

whats flocculation

A

-small particles (like clay) clump together due to electrical or chemical attraction
-become large enough to sink

26
Q

how does either swash or drift aligned longhsore drift affect bays

A

-wave refraction can cause either but typically more swash aligned

27
Q

what is a spit

A

-sand or shingle beach ridge extending beyond a turn in the coastline
-at the turn longshore drift current spreads out and loses energy leading to deposition

28
Q

what is the length of a spit determined by

A

-existence of secondary currents causing erosion (flow of river or wave action)

29
Q

example of spit

A

-spurn head on the holderness coast

30
Q

whats a bayhead beach and how is it formed

A

-swash aligned feature
-sediment moved into bay where beach is formed
-due to wave refraction erosion concentrated at headlands and bay becomes area of deposition

31
Q

example of bayhead beach

A

-lulworth cove, dorset

32
Q

whats a tombolo

A

-sand or shingle bar that attaches coastline to an offshore island

33
Q

how do tombolos form

A

-due to wave refraction around an offshore island
-creates area of calm water and deposition

34
Q

example of tombolo

A

-st ninians tombolo, shetland

35
Q

whats a barrier beach/bar

A

-sand or shingle beach connecting two areas of land with shallow water lagoon behind

36
Q

whats a cuspate foreland

A

-triangular shaped features extending out from a shoreline
-growth of two spits from opposing longshore drift directions

37
Q

what do depositional landforms depend on

A

-sediment supply and direction of prevailing wind

38
Q

what does a spit consist of

A

-largely unconsolidated material

39
Q

why does river discharge prevent a spit continuing

A

-disrupts the sediment flow
-causing sediment starvation (which also may be due to human interaction)

40
Q

what two things can happen if wave energy increases to a spit

A

-destructive waves either:
-cause a loss of sediment, overtopping removes vegetation, destabalising so reduced size of spit
-or cld bring sediment so build up a spit