Coastal Processes Flashcards
What are the inputs into the coastal system?
Sediment from landforms/cliffs Geology of the coastline Sea level change Tides Wind energy Wave energy
What are the outputs of a coastal system?
Sediment taken above the tidal system (usually by wind or storms)
Sediment taken to a sediment sink (out of the sediment cell)
Dissipation of wave energy
What are the stores of the coastal system?
Erosional landforms and landscapes (cliffs, stacks, arches)
Depositional landforms and landscapes (spits, beaches, tómbolas)
What are the flows/transfers of a coastal system?
Longshore drift
Erosional processes (wave quarrying, abrasion/corrasion, hydraulic action, solution, attrition)
Wave transport (traction, saltation, suspension, solution)
Aeolian/wind transport (saltation, suspension)
What is an example of negative feedback in a coastal system?
Waves erode a cliff Cliff collapse occurs The debris at the base of the cliff Absorbs the wave energy Reducing erosion of the cliff
What is an example of positive feedback in a coastal system?
Wave erodes a cliff Cliff collapse occurs Debris at the base of the cliff Is picked up by the waves And used for corrasion Increasing erosion of the cliff
What are the sources of energy at a coastline?
Wave energy
Tidal energy
Wind energy
Sea currents
Which factors affect wave energy?
Fetch
Strength
Duration of wind
What is the definition of wind?
Movement of air from one place to another (due to air moving from a high atmospheric pressure to a lower atmospheric pressure)
How does wind affect sediment?
Agent of erosion (picks up sand and uses it to erode other landforms by abrasion) Moves sediment (picks it up and drops it elsewhere)
What are the three different types of currents?
Longshore currents (also known as littoral drift)
Upwelling
Rip currents
What do longshore currents do?
Moves water (and transports sediment) parallel to a shoreline
What is the definition of rip currents?
Strong localised currents that move water away from the shoreline (occur on some beaches)
What is the definition of upwelling?
Movement of cold water from deep in the ocean towards the surface
What does upwelling do?
Forms part of the pattern of the global circulation system