Coastal Flashcards

1
Q

What is weathering?

A

It’s the process of rocks being broken down by various processes

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2
Q

Explain freeze thaw weathering:

A

Water collects in the cracks of rocks
It freezes when temp goes below 0°C
The ice expands by 9% and puts pressure on surround rock
The cycle repeats breaking rock up

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3
Q

Explain exfoliation:

A

Repetition of heating and cooling of rocks/ cliffs
Heated = expansion, cooled = rock contraction
This happens until the top layer falls off and exposes layers beneath

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4
Q

Explain chemical carbonation:

A

CO2 dissolves in rainwater
This forms carbonic acid
Dissolves some rocks like chalk and limestone

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5
Q

Explain biological weathering:

A

Plants and tree roots break up rocks
Burrowing animals digging holes into cliffs

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6
Q

What is mass movement?

A

Material falling downhill by the process of gravity

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7
Q

Explain rockfall:

A

Fragments of rock break off the cliff due to gravity
They collect at the bottom

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8
Q

Explain landslides:

A

Movement of material down a slope along a slip plane
Lubrication from water
Water adds weight to the slope

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9
Q

Explain mudflow:

A

Saturated mass of soil moving down a slope which spreads out at the bottom

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10
Q

Explain slumping:

A

Water adds weight and lubricates a curved slip plane

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11
Q

What is transportation?

A

Material that is moved by the sea

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12
Q

Explain saltation:

A

Material bouncing along the beach due to wave action

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13
Q

Explain traction:

A

For larger material rolling along the beach or sea floor

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14
Q

Explain solution:

A

For the smallest material which dissolves into the sea

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15
Q

Explain suspension:

A

Material carried along by the sea or waves

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16
Q

Explain hydraulic action:

A

The force of waves hitting cliffs and trapping air in the cracks of rocks. As the wave retreats the air escapes with a ‘pop’

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17
Q

Explain abrasion:

A

Waves use material to crash into or rub along cliffs

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18
Q

Explain attrition:

A

Material carried by the sea crashes into each other creating smaller and rounder material

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19
Q

Explain solution (erosion) :

A

Chemicals within the sea dissolves or reacts with chalk/ limestone cliffs to weaken them

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20
Q

Explain how destructive waves are created:

A

Created in storm conditions
Created from big, strong waves when the wind is powerful for a long time

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21
Q

Explain characteristics of destructive waves:

A

Erodes the coast
Stronger backwash than swash
Short wavelength but high and steep

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22
Q

Explain how constructive waves are created:

A

Created in calm weather

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23
Q

Explain characteristics of constructive waves:

A

Break on the shore and deposit material building up beaches
Stronger swash than backwash
Long wavelength and low in height
Less powerful than destructive waves

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24
Q

What is swash and backswash?

A

Swash is waves coming onto the beach
Backwash is waves coming away from the beach

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25
Q

Explain long shore drift (LSD):

A

Rocks and sand gets pushed by prevailing wind (in direction of LSD)
This material gets taken by the swash (hits the beach at an angle) and moves back at 90° due to backwash
This process repeats until sediment is move along the coast

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26
Q

What is prevailing wind?

A

Wind coming from the most common direction

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27
Q

What types of waves does LSD occur in?

A

Both constructive and destructive

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28
Q

What is deposition?

A

When the sea loses energy it drops the material it has been carrying

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29
Q

When is deposition likely to occur?

A

When waves enter shallow water
When waves enter a shallow area (cove or bay)
When there’s little wind
When there’s a good supply of beach material

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30
Q

What are two feature of deposition?

A

Beaches and spits

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31
Q

What is a spit?

A

An extended stretch of beach material that projects out to sea and is joined to the mainland at one end

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32
Q

How are spits formed?

A

Created by deposition
Prevailing wind blows at the coast at an angle which results in LSD
Material from LSD is deposited in shallow calm water usually where the coastline changes direction

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33
Q

How are headland and bays formed?

A

Soft rock (like clay) erodes faster than harder chalk
Erosion at the headland occurs slower and eroded material is deposited in the bay
Headland is now more exposed, destructive waves erode it more
Constructive waves occur in the bay as energy is lost as waves bend around the headland (wave refraction)
Weathering occurs at the same time

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34
Q

How does cliff retreat occur?

A

Waves undercut the cliff forming a wave cut notch
Cliff becomes unstable and collapses (rockfall)
Cliff moves back inland

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35
Q

How can vegetation change the shape of the coastline?

A

Vegetation helps to make a feature more stable (roots bind soil together making it more resistant against waves)

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36
Q

What is a eustatic change?

A

Change in sea level caused by changes in ice caps melting and thermal expansion of water. Global change

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37
Q

What is a isostatic change?

A

Change in sea level caused by land uplifting or being subjected. Local change (whole/ part of a country)
Removal of ice from the land causes it to rise

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38
Q

Explain headland erosion:

A

Cracks in rock allow seawater to enter it (hydraulic action)
Repeated hydraulic action enlarges cracks to form crevices and caves as well as undercutting
Caves are eroded all the way through the headland -arch
Roof of arch collapses during a storm helped by weathering forming a stack
When a stack collapses it becomes a stump

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39
Q

What are submergent features and how are they caused?

A

Rias and fjords
Eustatic and isostatic changes

40
Q

What is a Ria?

A

It’s a flooded river valley

41
Q

What is a Fjord?

A

It’s a flooded glacial valley

42
Q

How are Rias formed?

A

Sea water has risen
This floods river valleys on the coast
It’ll be higher at points where the sea erodes it

43
Q

How are Fjords formed?

A

Carved out/ eroded glacier
Glacier melts, rising sea levels therefore level into the valley

44
Q

Compare Ria and Fjord:

A

Fjords are U-shaped
Fjords are much longer and wider

45
Q

What’s a relict?

A

Ancient cliffs shows where high tides used to reach

46
Q

What’s a raised beach?

A

This used to be the beach when the sea levels were higher

47
Q

What can building settlements cause?

A

On lowland and cliffs it can lead to coastal management to protect them
Can lead to new land created as we extend into the sea

48
Q

What can building industry cause?

A

Lead to development of ports and harbours
Lead to coastal management

49
Q

What can coastal management cause?

A

Money spent on protecting coastal towns and cities

50
Q

What’s a biotic?

A

Living factors in the ecosystem or factors that can reproduce (plants and animals)

50
Q

What’s an abiotic?

A

Non living factors in the ecosystem (e.g. water, air, soil…)

50
Q

Where do coral reefs develop and where do they develop in relation to land?

A

South East Asia, North Australia, warm tropical areas
Near land - shallower water but this can extend several Km’s offshore

50
Q

What’s an ecosystem?

A

An area where the land and the sea meet. A combination of salt water, fresh water, land, fauna, flora and climate working together

51
Q

Where do mangroves develop and where do they develop in relation to land?

A

South east Asia, areas 30° of equator
Near land with intertidal zones

52
Q

Where do salt marshes develop and where do they develop in relation to land?

A

All over the world
Developed in sheltered areas where the sea is calm

52
Q

Where do sand dunes develop and where do they develop in relation to land?

A

All over the world
Form on land at edge of beaches need to be slightly inland from tidal zones

53
Q

What sea conditions do coral reefs require to develop?

A

Best temperature is 23-25°C
Shallower water as it needs lots of light
Salt water

54
Q

What sea conditions do mangroves require to develop?

A

Cope with salt and fresh water conditions
Can be flooded

55
Q

What sea conditions do salt marshes require to develop?

A

Develop in sheltered areas where sea is calm

55
Q

What sea conditions do sand dunes require to develop?

A

N/A

56
Q

What wave action does coral reefs require?

A

Strong wave action for oxygenated salt water

57
Q

What wave action does mangroves require?

A

A period of relative calm as they develop and set down roots

58
Q

What wave action does sand dunes require?

A

N/A as they develop above the high tide mark

59
Q

What wave action does salt marshes require?

A

Needs calm conditions

60
Q

What plants and animals does coral reefs have?

A

Range of algae
Range of animals, coral reefs house 25% of all marine animals

61
Q

What plants and animals does mangroves have?

A

Range of plants
Large amount of animals, diverse ecosystem

62
Q

What plants and animals does sand dunes have?

A

Range of grasses, shrubs and trees, marram grass, red fescue, birch and oak
Rabbits and shelducks nesting area

63
Q

What plants and animals does salt marshes have?

A

Different plants in different zones
Range of wading birds as it has important feeding zones

64
Q

What are the main threats to coral reefs?

A

Sediment and pollution in sea - blocks light
Climate change and sea level rise

65
Q

What are the main threats to mangroves?

A

Humans - deforestation

66
Q

What are the main threats to salt marshes?

A

Rising sea levels and more extreme weather events

66
Q

What are the main threats to sand dunes?

A

Rising sea levels and more extreme weather events

67
Q

Sudarbans threats:

A

Deforestation for space for farms
Poaching of tigers and spotted deer
Wood cut down for housing and fires - needs a licence to cut it down, high demand for wood

68
Q

Sudarbans management:

A

Teaching people not to kill tigers - non harmful scaring methods
Eco tourism provides jobs - small number of boats that don’t damage the environment

69
Q

Why does local residents care about coastal management and use?

A

Wants beaches to be taken care of, be maintained and have protection against flooding and storms

70
Q

Why does developers care about coastal management and use?

A

Protection from flooding and storms, clean nice looking beaches to attract tourists

71
Q

Why does the local council care about coastal management and use?

A

Against too many defences as it could ruin natural beauty of an area

72
Q

Why does national governments care about coastal management and use?

A

Defences are high cost, may stop them building defences

73
Q

Why do ports care about coastal management and use?

A

Want to expand ports for economic growth

74
Q

Why does National Park Authorities care about coastal management and use?

A

Against defences built, protecting ecosystems

75
Q

What coastal management is breakwater?

A

Concrete or large rock walls in the sea to protect harbours
Lasts a long time, effective
Expensive, restricts LSD which starves areas of sediment

76
Q

What coastal management is groynes?

A

Large wooden fences which trap sand to stop the beach being washed away
Effective for stopping LSD
Unattractive, expensive, unaccessible

77
Q

What coastal management is beach nourishment?

A

Replaces sand which has been lost from action of the sea
Cheap, effective with groynes, natural
Doesn’t last long, not effective against storms

78
Q

What coastal management is gabions?

A

Metal cages with rocks used to build a wall as the absorb energy from waves
Cheap, hold line for a short time
Unattractive, doesn’t last long

78
Q

What coastal management is sea wall?

A

Curved concrete walls to deflect energy back towards the sea
Lasts long time, very effective
Expensive, limits access, increases erosion in unprotected areas

78
Q

What coastal management is rock armour/ rip rap?

A

Big rocks placed on beaches to absorb energy from destructive waves
Lasts long, very effective
Expensive, limits access

79
Q

What’s soft engineering?

A

Use of natural materials or vegetation to create a natural barrier to defend against the sea

80
Q

What has been done at Abbots Hall Farm?

A

Breaching - 5 holes put into sea wall
2 sections of sea wall were built to protect farms
Salt marsh was created

81
Q

What has been created in Abbots Hall Farm?

A

Brent geese, redshank, lapwing
Pink sea lavender, eel grass, spartina

82
Q

Advantages of Abbots Hall Farm:

A

£1/2 million saved
Eco tourism - multiplier effect
Benefitted local habitats

83
Q

Disadvantages of Abbots Hall Farm:

A

Loss of land by farm
Increased number of vehicles on small lanes
Rising sea levels could flood salt marshes

84
Q

Whats the issue of Holderness?

A

Fast eroding coastline
Defending one area will erode another

85
Q

Plan for Holderness:

A

Diversification - People have to change their business plans
Cost benefit analysis - Deciding to defend places which will benefit
Roll back scheme - Allows businesses to move in land

86
Q

Benefits of Holderness:

A

Business able to expand - can’t relocate
Beach attracts visitors which helps local businesses
Supply for terminal gas on the coast from the north sea

87
Q

Costs of

A

Too many defences will cause more erosion further down the coast - sacrificial areas
High cost to maintain defences
Not possible to sell house if no one is interested in buying it

88
Q
A