Coastal Flashcards
What is weathering?
It’s the process of rocks being broken down by various processes
Explain freeze thaw weathering:
Water collects in the cracks of rocks
It freezes when temp goes below 0°C
The ice expands by 9% and puts pressure on surround rock
The cycle repeats breaking rock up
Explain exfoliation:
Repetition of heating and cooling of rocks/ cliffs
Heated = expansion, cooled = rock contraction
This happens until the top layer falls off and exposes layers beneath
Explain chemical carbonation:
CO2 dissolves in rainwater
This forms carbonic acid
Dissolves some rocks like chalk and limestone
Explain biological weathering:
Plants and tree roots break up rocks
Burrowing animals digging holes into cliffs
What is mass movement?
Material falling downhill by the process of gravity
Explain rockfall:
Fragments of rock break off the cliff due to gravity
They collect at the bottom
Explain landslides:
Movement of material down a slope along a slip plane
Lubrication from water
Water adds weight to the slope
Explain mudflow:
Saturated mass of soil moving down a slope which spreads out at the bottom
Explain slumping:
Water adds weight and lubricates a curved slip plane
What is transportation?
Material that is moved by the sea
Explain saltation:
Material bouncing along the beach due to wave action
Explain traction:
For larger material rolling along the beach or sea floor
Explain solution:
For the smallest material which dissolves into the sea
Explain suspension:
Material carried along by the sea or waves
Explain hydraulic action:
The force of waves hitting cliffs and trapping air in the cracks of rocks. As the wave retreats the air escapes with a ‘pop’
Explain abrasion:
Waves use material to crash into or rub along cliffs
Explain attrition:
Material carried by the sea crashes into each other creating smaller and rounder material
Explain solution (erosion) :
Chemicals within the sea dissolves or reacts with chalk/ limestone cliffs to weaken them
Explain how destructive waves are created:
Created in storm conditions
Created from big, strong waves when the wind is powerful for a long time
Explain characteristics of destructive waves:
Erodes the coast
Stronger backwash than swash
Short wavelength but high and steep
Explain how constructive waves are created:
Created in calm weather
Explain characteristics of constructive waves:
Break on the shore and deposit material building up beaches
Stronger swash than backwash
Long wavelength and low in height
Less powerful than destructive waves
What is swash and backswash?
Swash is waves coming onto the beach
Backwash is waves coming away from the beach
Explain long shore drift (LSD):
Rocks and sand gets pushed by prevailing wind (in direction of LSD)
This material gets taken by the swash (hits the beach at an angle) and moves back at 90° due to backwash
This process repeats until sediment is move along the coast
What is prevailing wind?
Wind coming from the most common direction
What types of waves does LSD occur in?
Both constructive and destructive
What is deposition?
When the sea loses energy it drops the material it has been carrying
When is deposition likely to occur?
When waves enter shallow water
When waves enter a shallow area (cove or bay)
When there’s little wind
When there’s a good supply of beach material
What are two feature of deposition?
Beaches and spits
What is a spit?
An extended stretch of beach material that projects out to sea and is joined to the mainland at one end
How are spits formed?
Created by deposition
Prevailing wind blows at the coast at an angle which results in LSD
Material from LSD is deposited in shallow calm water usually where the coastline changes direction
How are headland and bays formed?
Soft rock (like clay) erodes faster than harder chalk
Erosion at the headland occurs slower and eroded material is deposited in the bay
Headland is now more exposed, destructive waves erode it more
Constructive waves occur in the bay as energy is lost as waves bend around the headland (wave refraction)
Weathering occurs at the same time
How does cliff retreat occur?
Waves undercut the cliff forming a wave cut notch
Cliff becomes unstable and collapses (rockfall)
Cliff moves back inland
How can vegetation change the shape of the coastline?
Vegetation helps to make a feature more stable (roots bind soil together making it more resistant against waves)
What is a eustatic change?
Change in sea level caused by changes in ice caps melting and thermal expansion of water. Global change
What is a isostatic change?
Change in sea level caused by land uplifting or being subjected. Local change (whole/ part of a country)
Removal of ice from the land causes it to rise
Explain headland erosion:
Cracks in rock allow seawater to enter it (hydraulic action)
Repeated hydraulic action enlarges cracks to form crevices and caves as well as undercutting
Caves are eroded all the way through the headland -arch
Roof of arch collapses during a storm helped by weathering forming a stack
When a stack collapses it becomes a stump