Chemical Exfoliation Flashcards
Chemical Exfoliation
-Also known as a chemical peel, the use of chemical solutions to dissolve or reduce dead skin cells & desmosomes
-Promotes cell turnover & induces desquamation (shedding, peeling or coming off in scales) of the stratum corneum
Most chemical exfoliation treatments improve
-Texture
-Fine lines & wrinkles
-Pigmentation
-Hydration
-Some forms of scarring
Chemical Exfoliation Frequency
-Schedule C.E. treatments in a series of 4-8 sessions
-The type of exfoliation determines treatment frequency
-Schedule C.E. treatments every 14 days
-A series of treatments every 3-4 months is typical recommendation
-Treatment can also be scheduled once a month as needed
-Optimum facial maintenance is once a month or every 6 weeks
-Schedule also depends on strength of product & client tolerance to C.E.
Types of chemical exfoliation depend on
-Depth of peeling product
-Actions on skin
-Target of acid medium
Three depths of chemical exfoliation
-Superficial/Light
-Medium
-Deep
Superficial/Light exfoliation characteristics
-Impacts the skin up to 0.1mm (.004”) of the epidermis
-Typically uses multiple types of acids such as glycolic, salicylic and mandelic acid
-Action is dependent on type of acid, contact time & overall formulation
-Should not be performed closer than 14 days between treatments
-All Fitzpatrick skin types can receive this level of service if skin is prepared correctly
Superficial/Light Side Effects
-Mild peeling
-redness
-Flaky skin
-Can last 7-10 days
Medium Exfoliation
-Impact all of the epidermis into the papillary layer
-Generally does not fall into the scope of practice for estheticians
-Peeling agents are usually trichloroacetic acid (TCA) of 35%-40% & pyruvic acid
-This level should be performed under medical professional supervision
-High risk of side effects if done incorrectly ; some sedation may be needed
-Causes client to look unappealing for 10 days post-peel
-Hydrating facial can be extremely helpful for this service
-USE CAUTION working with Fitzpatrick skin types 4-6
Deep Exfoliation
-Affect epidermis into reticular dermis
-Must be done in physician’s office & REQUIRES sedation
-Includes: Phenol & Carbolic acid
Three categories of chemical exfoliants
-Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)
-Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs)
-Blended or designer acids
*Effectiveness is related to pH of solution
*Free-acid is the active acid part of a peel
Key things to understand about pH
-Lower pH is more acidic
-pH below 2.5 can cause irritation
-Lower pH can increase efficacy, depending on acid
-The formulation determines effectiveness
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids
-AHA — a term for a group of acids that occur naturally in food
-Includes glycolic, lactic, phytic & mandelic acids
-Considered water-soluble & must be neutralized before removing
AHA benefits
-Aid in normalizing skin functions, like achieving the proper rate of exfoliation & increased hydration
-Encourage Collagen deposition & fibroblast formation
Beta-hydroxy Acids
-BHA also known as salicylic acid
-Salicylic acid is a unique hydroxy acid since it’s lipophilic, or attracted to oil
-Penetrates the sebaceous material in the hair follicle, causing exfoliation - even in oily areas of the face and scalp
-A component of a Jessner’s peel solution
-Jessner’s solution is a mixture of salicylic acid, resorcinol, lactic acid & ethanol. Used both for superficial & medium-depth peels; depends on concentration of acid & layers applied
Blended Acids/Designer Acids
-Popular combinations of formulations that are specific to a manufacturer
-Combinations are based on the effect that the manufacturer wants to see
-Some common blends are salicylic acid with low levels of TCA& skin-lightening ingredients like kojic acid
