Cheese Identification - France Flashcards
Abbaye de Belloc (not AOC)
Producer: Abbaye de Notre-Dame de Belloc Region: Aquitaine Size: 8-9 ins diameter 3-4 ins high Weight: 8-10lbs Milk: Sheep Classification: Firm Rennet: Animal Rind: Natural, Paprika Age: four to ten months Notes: youngest wheels are made in December and sent to market in April,
Abondance (AOC)
Region: Haut Savoie Size: 2 ¾” tall, 15 ¾” diameter Weight: 15 - 26 lbs Milk: Cow Classification: Firm Rennet: Animal Rind: Natural Notes: Abondance is a semi-hard, fragrant, raw-milk cheese made in the Haute-Savoie department of France. Its name comes from a small commune also called Abondance. A round of Abondance weighs approximately 10 kg and its aroma is similar to that of Beaufort, also from France. Abondance is made exclusively from milk produced by the Abondance; montbéliarde and tarintaise breed of cattle.
Abondance cheese was granted an Appellation d’origine contrôlée or AOC in 1990.[2]
The region has been known for its cheese since at least the 14th century when monks from the Sainte Marie d’Abondance Monastery are recorded to have supplied cheese to the papal conclave at Avignon.[3]
The ageing period for Abondance is a minimum of three months on specially-prepared spruce boards.
Brie de Meaux (AOC)
Region: Ile de France Size: 14-15 ins diameter, 2 ins high Weight: 5.5 - 6.5 lbs Milk: Cow Classification: Soft Rennet: Animal Rind: Mold Ripened Notes: Granted AOC (name protected) status in 1980, maturation or affinage must take place within specified regions of Seine-et-Marne, Loiret, Aube, Marne, Haut-Marne, Meuse and Yonne. The geographical separation between the places of production and maturation is a Brie tradition.
Selles-sur-Cher (AOC)
Region: Loire Size: 3-3.5 ins diameter, 1 in high Weight: 6 oz Milk: Goat Classification: Soft Rennet: Vegetable Rind: Mold Ripened Notes: Ash coated Selles-sur-Cher is a French goats'-milk cheese made in the Centre region of France. Its name is derived from the commune of Selles-sur-Cher in the Loir-et-Cher department where it was first made in the 19th century.
The exterior is dry with a grey-blue mould covering its surface and has a musty odour.
The cheese is then left in a cool ventilated room at 80% humidity (dry compared to a typical cellar at 90-100% humidity) for between 10 and 30 days during which time it dries as the mould forms on its exterior. An initial coating of charcoal encourages the formation of its characteristic mould.
Although industrial production is now all year round, it is at its best between spring and autumn.
The cheese was awarded AOC status in 1975.
Bleu D’Auvergne (AOC)
Region: Auvergne Size: 8 ins diameter, 3-4 ins high Weight: 5-6 lbs Milk: Cow Classification: Semi Soft Blue Rennet: Animal Rind: Natural Notes: Bleu d'Auvergne was granted AOC (name protected) in 1975 and is available in both cooperative and industriel versions.
The origins of Bleu d’Auvergne are relatively recent, only appearing on the market in the middle of the 19th century. Its exact history is unconfirmed, although legend has it that the recipe orignated from an Auvergne farmer who experiemented by sprinkling mold (Penicilium Roqueforti) growing on a piece of his rye bread into newly formed curd. The resulting cheese proved popular and, after the recipe was perfected by Antoine Rousset, the cheese became known as Bleu d’Auvergne. Milk for production would have orignally come from the breed of Ferrandaire cow.
Bleu des Causses (AOC)
Region: Languedoc, Midi Pyrenees Size: 8 ins diameter, 4 ins high Weight: 6 lbs Milk: Cow Classification: Semi Soft Blue Rennet: Animal Rind: Natural Notes: Produced in the Languedoc region of southern France, Bleu des Causses is made from raw milk from the Montbeliarde and Aubrac breeds of of cow. Bleu des Causses was granted AOC status in 1979. Traditionally the recipe for Bleu des Causses would have probably involved the use of sheep's milk mixed with either cow's or goat's milk. However, as a result of legislation surrounding the production of other French blue cheeses, in 1947 it was decreed that it should be made solely from cow's milk.
The recipe for Bleu des Causses bears many similarities to Blue d’Auvergne, although Bleu des Causses usually has a slightly softer texture, a creamier mouthfeel, and more peppery, spicy flavors.
Wheels of Bleu des Causses are typically aged between three and six months before release. Cheeses made during the winter months are paler in color than their summer counterparts, a result of the variation in the cow’s diet. The texture of cheeses made during the winter tends to be slightly drier.
Bleu de Gex (AOC)
Region: Haut Jura Size: 14-16 ins diameter, 5 ins high Weight: 15 - 17lb Milk: Cow Classification: Firm Blue Rennet: Animal Rind: Natural Notes: Bleu de Gex (also known as Blue du Haut Jura or Bleu de Septmoncel) is produced from raw cow's milk in the Haut Jura region of southeastern France.
Granted AOC (name protected) status in 1986, the areas of production are the “Departments” of l’Ain and Jura, and milk for production must be sourced from Montbeliard or Pie Rouge de l’Est cows that graze in a dsignated area within the Jura mountains.
The history of Bleu de Gex is closely related to that of Bleu de Sassenage, and the cheeses have a number of similarities, as they both originated in the the village of Villard-de-Lans. When, in 1348, the Dauphiné region was ceded to the first French Dauphin, a number of the cheesemakers emigrated to the “Pays de Gex” (a region that had been previously been dominated by sheep and goat cheese) taking the recipe with them.
With the encouragement of the Bishop at the abbey at Saint-Claude, the cheesemakers established production of Bleu de Gex and Bleu de Septmoncel which have both become recognized in their own right.
Aromas of Bleu de Gex are mild but distinctly nutty and smell of damp earth and cellar. The texture of the cheese is dense, close and supple, shot through with fine blue-green veins. The color of the interior paste varies from butter-yellow to ivory depending on the season and cheeses have a thin, brown rind that is embossed with the word “Gex”.
Flavors are mild, buttery, and rounded with a slightly spicy and peppery note imparted by the blue veins.
Blue de Gex pairs well with a fruity regional red wine such as a Beaujolais or Burgundy.
Brie de Melun (AOC)
Region: Ile de France Size: 10-11 ins diameter, 1.5 ins high Weight: 3.5 - 4 lbs Milk: Cow Classification: Semi Soft Rind: Mold Ripened Notes: Brie de Melun and the more famous Brie de Meaux, are both produced in the region of northern France known as Ile de France. However, whereas Brie de Meaux posseses refined flavors and a soft texture, Brie de Melun is smaller in size and tends to be a more robust cheese, often quite salty and with a firmer texture. The reason for these differences lies in the way each is made. Production of Brie de Meaux is relatively fast (about 30 minutes) because the milk is coagulated with the addition of rennet. On the other hand, Brie de Melun is made using lactic fermentation, a process whereby milk is allowed to ripen for a period of approximately 18 hours, at which point is has formed a gel-like curd. Wheels of Brie de Melun are also matured for a minimum of four weeks and often up to seven or eight - considerably longer than Brie de Meaux which is often released after about three weeks.
As mentioned above, flavors are robustly lactic and slightly salty, with a gentle barnyard finish and subtle sour notes. The best cheeses are often made between June and October.
Brie de Melun pairs well with red Burgundy, Chilean Merlot or a southern French Syrah.
Brocciu
Region: Corsica Weight: 0.5-0.6 lbs Milk: Sheep Goat Classification: Soft Rennet: Animal Notes: Today it is the only Corsican cheese with French AOC status.
Brocciu is a soft, fresh cheese made from sheep’s or goat’s milk whey. As the whey heats up, some fresh milk is added (up to 25% volume can be fresh milk, according to AOC regulations). When the whey and milk reach about 170 degrees farenheit, the curds (known locally as ‘Fattoghje casgiaghe’), begin floating to the top. The cheesemaker scoops curds out and allows them to drain in a small basket mold.
The soft cheese can be consumed a few hours after cooling and draining, or it can be refined over several weeks. Once the cheese has aged for 21 days, it becomes classified as “Brocciu Passu.” The ideal consumption period is from November to June.
Brocciu is similar to ricotta, although with a slightly stronger tang. It is creamy, smooth, fragile and a bit sweet.
Pairings: Brocciu is usually eaten after a meal, perhaps alongside chestnut liquer and sugar, or with fig jam or coffee. It is also great for cooking and is often added to omelets alongside mint, in stuffed zucchini or tomatoes, in beignets, or in a custard baked with lemon zest (fiadone).
Camembert de Normandie
Region: Normandy Size: 4.5 ins diameter, 1-2 ins high Weight: 8 oz Milk: Cow Classification: Soft Rennet: Animal Rind: Mold Ripened Notes: Camembert originated in Normany, France, invented in 1791 by Marie Harel. The name "Camembert de Normandie" is protected under AOC rules that were grantd in 1983
Regions for production are Calvados, Eure, Manche, Orne and Seine-Maritime, all areas that are dominated by excellent grazing pasture and a mild maritime climate. Milk for production is sourced only from local herds of Normandie cows.
When ripe, Camembert Normandie are covered with a white, bloomy mold that frequently has slightly reddish stripes and patches. Aromas are of mushrooms and clean cellar.
Good pairings include Chenin Blanc, a light red wine such as Beaujolais or classically a glass of Normandy cider.
Cantal (AOC)
Region: Auvergne Size: 14-17 ins diameter, 14-16 ins high Weight: 75-100 lbs Milk: Cow Classification: Firm Rennet: Animal Rind: Natural Notes: Made in the Auvergne region in southern-central France, Cantal Laguiole is one of France’s most traditional, large-format cheeses.
Granted name-protected, AOC (now known as DOP) status in 1980.
What makes this cheese so special is not only the cow’s milk that comes from the Laguiole and Salers breeds, but also the terrain - the plateau of Aubrac. The plateau sits at a high elevation and consists of a large grazing area characterized by rough pastureland that is never cut, the forage being preserved for the cows during the summer months. In the summer, the climate is hot and stormy with the onset of winter bringing bitingly cold winds and heavy snow.
Farmstead versions are made at high altitude only during the summer months, whereas commercial plants make the cheese year round.
Cantal is sold at three ages: Young - up to 3 months, Regular - 3-6 months, Aged - over 6 months. The texture of Cantal is semi-firm, moist and slightly crumbly with a natural rind mottled with brown, grey and rust colored molds.
Tasting Notes
In terms of flavor, it is a straightforward cheese. However, while not possessing pronounced or assertive flavors, Cantal develops wonderfully complex and blended subtle notes of butter and milk, citrus, caramel and nuts with a very long and pleasant finish.
Chabichou du Poitou (AOC)
Region: Poitou-Charentes Size: 1.5 ins diameter,2.5 ins high Weight: 6 oz Milk: Goat Classification: Semi Soft Rennet: Vegetable Rind: Mold Ripened
Acquired its AOC status in 1990
Made in the Poitou, Berry and Perigord regions of France Chabichou du Poitou is an AOC fermier or farmstead cheese produced from goat’s milk. The cheese is mainly produced by farmers or cheese retailers in its area and many of the cheeses are sold only locally. These regions have been long renowned for their high quality goat cheese production.
The cheese is usually released at a minimum age of 2 weeks. Some are matured beyond this and enjoyed is enjoyed at five to six weeks. Cheeses are shaped like a small cylinder and have a wrinkled natural rind, sometimes dotted with the occasional gray patch, a result of the geotricum mold.
Chaource (AOC)
Region: Champagne or Burgundy Size: 2-3 ins diameter, 3 ins high Weight: 8oz Milk: Cow Classification: Soft Rennet: Animal Rind: Mold Ripened
THE Cheese of Champagne
It was recognised as an AOC cheese in 1970, and has been fully regulated since 1977.
The AOC regulations state that:
Coagulation must be principally lactic, and last at least 12 hours.
Drainage of the cheese must be slow and spontaneous.
Records show that it has been produced since the 14th century, when farmers sold it as an accompaniment to Champagne at the Champagne fairs in Troyes. The tradition of drinking champagne with Chaource continues today.
Coagulation is mainly lactic and the cheeses are ladled by hand, keeping the curd mild, light and moist. Cheeses are not pressed, and mature for a minimum of two weeks. However, given the correct cellar humidity, aging can take as long as two months.
Chaource are at their best in April and May, due to lush spring grass and the new season’s milk.
Pair with a Chablis, Nuit St Georges, Sancerre or Champagne.
Livarot (AOC)
Region: Normandie Size: 1.5 ins high, 3-5 ins diameter Weight: 8oz - 3 lbs Milk: Cow Classification: Soft Rennet: Animal Rind: Washed
Named after a market town in Normadie, Northern France, Livarot is produced from raw cow’s milk. It also carries a nickname “The Colonel”, due to the five rush bands that encircle the cheese which resemble the shoulder stripes of a colonel’s uniform. According to its AOC name protected designation, cheeses have to be made within a 12 mile radius of the town and only from the milk of the Normandie cow.
Livarot is thought to have been created by monks about 700 years ago although now the raw milk version is only made by one remaining dairy, La Fromagerie Graindorge whose owner, Thierry Graindorge is the third generation to make and mature the cheeses.
For production of Livarot, semi-skimmed milk is used and allowed to “ripen” for 24 hours before being heated which is when the rennet is added. Curds are cut carefully into small cubes, mixed until they become pea sized and then poured into tall round molds in two steps to ensure the dense texture of the cheese. The molds are turned several times during the first 24 hours before being unmolded and dipped in a brine solution. The brine is dyed red with the annato seed (from a South American shrub) which in turn colors the cheeses a deep red on the rind. The salt contained within the brine encourages the growth of the bacterium linens mold that gives the cheese it pungent aroma and moist almost gritty rind.
Finally, each cheese is wrapped with five narrow strips of the leaf of the water sedge. Originally, this was to help preserve the cheese’s shape but today it is for form and tradition rather than function, though it is a requirement for the AOC label.
Livarot pairs very well with Calvados, produced in the same area as well as an Alsacian wine.
Chevrotin (PDO)
PDO NOT AOC
Chevrotin has been produced since the 17th century in the Alpine foothills of the Savoyard Chablais, Bauges and Aravis districts. The landscape presents difficulties to agriculture, with steep gradients, a damp climate and a thin limestone based soil that supports a restricted vegetation. The only domesticated animals that can feed here are goats: these are also able to move around with the same sure-footedness as the chamois who live nearer the mountain peaks. Chevrotin is made from filtered but unpasteurized goat’s milk.
The cheese is a fresh one, with only a brief maturation period. Production tends to be a small-scale artisanal process. At a minimum, it needs three weeks to ripen: this takes place on pine timber shelves, and during ripening time each cheese is turned and washed with brine three times per week.
