Chapter 21 Flashcards
Alkaline waves
Also know as cold water waves; have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG), as reducing agent, and process at room temperature without the addition of heat
Acid-Balanced Waves
Permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH; because d their higher pH, they process at room temperature, do not require that added heat of. Hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.
Amino Acids
Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur
Ammonium Thioglycate (ATG)
Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents
Base Control
Position if the tool I. Relation to its base section, determined. He the angle at which the hair is wrapped
Base Cream
Also known as protective base cream; oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing
Base Direction
Angle at which the rid is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped
Base relaxers
Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer
Base Sections
Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally places on each base section
Basic permanent wrap
Also known as straight set wrap; perm wrapping pattern In Which a the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized basses; all the bass sections are horizontal, and are the same length and width as the perm rod
Bookended Wrap
Perm wrap in which one end sport is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope
Bricklayers permanent wrap
Perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row, to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair.
Chemical hair relaxing
A process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form
Chemical texture services
Hair service that cause a chemical change the natural wave pattern of the hair
Concave Rods
Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter
Croquignole perm wrap
Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand strand of hair being wrapped
Curvature Permanent Wrap
Perm wrap in which partings and base radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head
Double flat wrap
Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is place over the strand of hair being wrapped
Double-rod wrap
Also know as piggyback wrap; a technique whereby extra long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another rot us used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction
End Papers
Also known as end wraps; absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winning hair on perm rods
Exothermic Waves
Create an Exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds ip processing
Endothermic waves
Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer
Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
Main active ingredient in true acid and acid balanced waving lotions
Half off-base placement
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle if 90 degrees it perpendicular to it’s base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base section
Hydroxide Neutralization
An acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by a hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp; hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds.
Hydroxide Relaxers
Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13; the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers
Keratin Proteins
Long, coiled polypeptide chains
Lanthionization
Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; they remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it unto a lanthionine bond.
Loop rod
Also known as circle rod; tool that is usually about 12-inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of rod
Low-pH waves
Perms that use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulifites as an alternative to ammonium Thioglycate; they have a low pH.
Metal hydroxide relaxers
Ionic compounds formed by a metal(sodium, potassium, or lithium) which is combined with oxygen and hydrogen
No-base relaxers
Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream
Normalizing lotions
Conditioners with an acidic pH that restore the hairs natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing
Off-base placement
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45 degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base.
On-base placement
Base control in which the hair is wrapped T a 45 degree basketball beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned completely off its base.
Peptide bonds
Also known as end bonds; chemical binds that join amino acids together, end to end in long chains, to form polypeptide chains
Permanent waving
A two-step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair in perm rods, and then the hair undergoes a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer
Polypeptide chains
Long chain if amino acids joined together by peptide bonds
Single Flat Wrap
Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top if the strand if hair being wrapped
Soft bender rods
Perm rods that are equal in diameter Along their entire length or curling area
Thio neutralization
Stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form
Thio relaxers
Use the sane ammonium thioglycate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10)
Thio-Free Waves
Perm that uses the same ammonium thioglycate (ATG) that is used in a permanent waving, but at higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10)
True acid waves
Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to process; they process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline
Viscosity
The measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how fluid flows
Weave technique
Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas
