Chapter 20 Flashcards
Alkaline Waves
Also known as “cold waves” ; have a pH between 8.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature without addition of heat
Acid-Balanced Waves
Permanent waves that have 7.0 or neutral pH; because of their higher pH, they process at room temperature, do require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves
Amino Acids
Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur
Ammonia-Free Waves
Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use
Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG)
Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents
Base Control
Position of the tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
Base Direction
Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.
Base Cream
Also know as protective base cream; oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing
Base Placement
Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section, base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
Base Sections
Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section.
Basic Permanent Wrap
Also known as a “straight set wrap” ; perm wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases; all the base sections are horiziontal, and are the same length and width as the perm rod
Bookended Wrap
Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope
Bricklay Permanent Wrap
Perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row, to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair
Chemical Hair Relaxing
A process or service that rearranges the structures of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form
Chemical Texture Services
Hair service that cause a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair
Concave rods
perm rods that have similar diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends
Croquignole Perm Wrap
Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers
Curvature Permanent Wrap
Perm wrap in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the the scalp in overlapping concentric layers
Double flat wrap
Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed
Double Rod Wrap
Also know as piggypack wrap; a wrap technique whereby extra long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction
End Papers
Also known as end wraps; absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods
Endothermic Waves
Create an Exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the processing
Glyceryl Monothioglycolate (GMTG)
Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions
Half of-base placement
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base section
Hydroxide Neutralization
An acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes(deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by a hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp; hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds
Hydroxide Relaxers
Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13; the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers
Keratin proteins
Long, coiled polypeptide chains
Lanthionzation
Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; the remove a sulfur atom from disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond
Loop Rod
Also known as circle rod; tool that is usually about 12 inches long with uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod
Low pH waves
Perms that use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulifites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate; they have low pH
