Chapter 20 Flashcards
A long, elongate ridge of sand that parallels the coast
Barrier island
A sandbar that completely crosses a bay, sealing it off from the main body of water
Bay mouth bar
An accumulation of sediment found along the landward margin of the ocean or lake
Beach
The transport of sediment in a zigzag pattern along a beach, caused by the uprush of water from obliquely breaking waves
Beach drift
The wet, sloping surface that extends from the berm to the shoreline
Beach face
A process in which large quantities of sand are added to the beach system to offset losses caused by wave erosion. Building beaches seaward improves beach quality and storm protection
Beach nourishment
The dry, gently sloping zone on the back shore of a beach at the foot of coastal cliffs or dunes
Berm
A structure that protects a near shore area from breaking waves
Breakwater
A heavy sea wave that breaks into white foam on the shore or a shoal
Breakers
A strip of land that extends inland from the coastline as far as ocean- related features can be found
Coast
The coasts seaward edge. The landward limit of the effect of the highest storm waves on the shore.
Coastline
The movement of tidal current away from the shore
Ebb current
A clash where land formally below sea level has been exposed by crustal uplift or a drop in sea level has been exposed by crustal uplift orbs drop in sea level or both
Emergent coast
A funnel shaped inlet of the sea that formed when a rise in sea level or subsidence of land caused the mouth of a river to be flooded
Estuary
The portion of the shore that lies between the normal high and low water marks; the intertidal zone
Foreshore
A short walk built at a right angle to the sea shore to trap moving sand
Groin
A pair of structures extending into the ocean at the entrance to a harbor or river that are built for the purpose of protecting against storm waves and sediment deposition
Jetty
A near shore current that flows parallel to the shore
Longshore current
A terrace formed along a seashore by the merging of wave cut and wave built terraces
Marine terrace
The lowest tidal rang, occurring near the times of the first and third quarters of the moon
Neap tide
The zone of a beach that extends from the low tide shoreline seaward to where waves break at low tide
Nearshore
The relatively flat submerged zone that extends from the breaker line to the edge of the continental shelf
Offshore zone
An arch formed by wave erosion when caves in opposite sides of a headlined unite
Sea arch
An isolated mass of rock standing just offshore, produced by wave erosion of a headland
Sea stack
A barrier constructed to prevent waves from reaching the areas behind the wall. It’s purpose is to defend property from the force of breaking waves
Seawall
Seaward of the coast, a zone that extends from the highest level of wave action during storms to the lowest tide level
Shore
The line that marks the contact between land and sea. It migrates up and down as the tide rises and falls.
Shoreline
Am elongate ridge of sand that projects from the land into the mouth of an adjacent bay
Spit
The highest tidal range. Occurs near the times of the new and full moons
Spring tide
A coast whose form is largely a result of the perils drowning of a former land surface due to a rise of sea level or subsidence of crust, or both
Submergent coast
The inner portion of the shore, lying landward of the high-third shoreline. It is usually dry, being affected by waves only during storms
Backshore
A collective term for breakers; also the wave activity in the area between the shoreline and the outer limit of breakers
Surf zone
The alternating horizontal movement of water associated with the rise and fall of the tide
Tidal current
A delta like feature created when a rapidly moving tidal current emerges from a narrow inlet and slows, depositing its load of sediment
Tidal delta
A marshy or muddy area that is alternately covered and uncovered by the resigned fall of the tide
Tidal flats
The periodic change in elevation of the ocean surface
Tide
A Ben n or shelf along a
Shore At sea level, cut by wave erosion
Wave-cut platform
A seaward facing cliff along a steep shoreline formed by wave erosion at its base and mass wasting your
Wave-cut cliff
The vertical distance between trough and crest of a wave
Wave height
The horizontal distance separating successive crests or troughs
Wavelength
The time interval between the passage of successive crests at a stationary point
Wave period
A change in direction of waves as they enter shallow waters the portion of the wave in shallow water is slowed, which causes the waves to bend and align with the underwater contours
Wave refraction
A ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland or to another island
Tombolo
