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Science > Chapter 11: The Oceans > Flashcards

Chapter 11: The Oceans Flashcards

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1
Q

What determines wave height?

A

How fast, long and how far the winds has been blowing them. They’re height ranges from 2m to 5m

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2
Q

What are calm waves called?

A

Swells

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3
Q

How do you measure the height of a wave?

A

From trough to crest

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4
Q

How do you measure the wavelength of a wave?

A

Crest to Crest

Trough to Trough

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5
Q

Frequency

A

The time it takes for a wave to pass a certain point.

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6
Q

What creates waves?

A

Wind*

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7
Q

How are some of the highest waves created?

A

Earthquakes, Landslides and under water volcanoes

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8
Q

How do the particles in a wave move?

A

In a circular motion, in the direction of the wave.

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9
Q

What happens as a wave approaches shore?

A

The top continues at the same speed but the bottom slows down due to friction

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10
Q

What is a breaker?

A

In a body of water a wave that breaks or collapses into foam when it reaches shallow water or the beach. Wave length shortens during this process.

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11
Q

Describe the impact of ocean waves (breakers) on a bay and headland

A

Most of the energy is concentrated on the headlands applying a lot less force on the bay.

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12
Q

How is sand formed?

A

Erosion causes rock to break down into what we call sand, on gentler slopes it stays.

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13
Q

What kind of waves erode a beach?

A

Winter waves

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14
Q

What kind of waves add sediment to the beach?

A

Summer waves

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15
Q

What is a breakwater and why is it called that?

A

A breakwater is a structure set up to break waves so they have less of an impact on the shore and leave sand beaches sandy.

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16
Q

What controls tides movements?

A

The moon

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17
Q

What are the largest tides called?

A

Spring tides, this is when the sun and moon are in line

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18
Q

What are low tides called?

A

Neap tides, when the sun and moon are at a right angle to each other.

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19
Q

When the spring tide is high where is the extra water coming from?

A

The other side of the ocean

20
Q

What is the interval between one tide and the next?

A

6hrs and 13 mins

21
Q

What is the largest ecosystem in the world?

A

Oceans

22
Q

Below what is the ocean pitch black?

A

100 metres

23
Q

What controls the shape and formation of the ocean floor?

A

The shifting of tectonic plates

24
Q

What are tectonic plates?

A

Part of the earth’s outer crust, continents sit on them. They cause earthquakes volcanos etc.

25
Q

What ocean is getting wider?

A

The Atlantic

26
Q

What are the newest part of the ocean called? What are they made up of?

A

Mid-Ocean ridges, they are made up of quick hardening molten lava.

27
Q

What are underwater mountains called? Where are they the most common?

A

Seamounts

The Pacific Ocean

28
Q

What are underwater canyon called?

A

Trenches

29
Q

What are the huge expanses of open space on the ocean floor called?

A

Abyssal Plains

30
Q

What is the continental shelf?

A

The gradually sloping area between a sea coast and the edge of the ocean basin

31
Q

What is a continental slope?

A

A steep slope dividing a continental shelf from an ocean basin

32
Q

What is the chemical name for sea salt?

A

Sodium Chloride

33
Q

Where does the minerals and materials in the ocean come from?

A

Rivers

34
Q

What is a current?

A

It is like a massive river in the water

35
Q

What drive currents?

A

Currents are driven by ocean winds, they are caused by constant prevailing wind patterns.

36
Q

How do prevailing wind patterns move?

A

Clockwise above the equator and counterclockwise below the equator

37
Q

What are three factors affecting prevailing wind patterns?

A

Uneven heating in the atmosphere
Rotation of the earth
Continents

38
Q

What creates wind?

A

Differences in air pressure produced by uneven heating in the atmosphere

39
Q

What is the Coriolis effect?

A

A deflection (bending) of moving air and water currents; produced by the earth’s rotation

40
Q

What direction do trade winds move?

A

East to west

41
Q

What direction do westerly wind move?

A

West to east

42
Q

How do continents impact ocean currents?

A

Moving continents are forced to turn when they meet a solid surface (continents)

43
Q

What are the three temperature zones in the ocean?

A

Mixed layer
Thermocline
Deep water

44
Q

What are density currents?

A

a mass of cold water flowing beneath the ocean surface; the water is often more saline (salty) than surrounding water and often contains a significant amount of sediment.

45
Q

What is an upwelling?

A

When cold water rises to the surface to replace water blown to different areas.

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