Chapter 10 Flashcards

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1
Q

surface currents

A

masses of water that move from one place to another

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2
Q

how are surface currents formed?

A

by friction of wind passing over the ocean

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3
Q

gyres

A

a collection of currents that form a circular system

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4
Q

5 major gyres

A
North Atlantic
South Atlantic
North Pacific
South Pacific
Indian
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5
Q

Coriolis Effect

A

caused by the rotation of the planet

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6
Q

Coriolis Effect in N. Hemisphere

A

currents are deflected to the right (clockwise)

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7
Q

Coriolis Effect in S. Hemisphere

A

currents are deflected to the left (counterclockwise)

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8
Q

Effect of ocean currents on Earth as a whole

A

gains in solar energy equal the losses to space of heat radiated from the surface

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9
Q

Net gain of energy in _____ latitudes and net loss at ____ latitudes

A

lower, higher

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10
Q

The transfer of heat by winds and ocean currents equalizes:

A

latitude energy imbalances

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11
Q

Ocean currents account for __% of total heat transport, and winds account for __%

A

25, 75

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12
Q

the presence of cold currents causes temperatures to reach a ___ _____

A

dew point

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13
Q

upwelling

A

the rising of cold water from deeper layers to replace warmer surface water

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14
Q

coastal upwelling

A

most characteristic along west coasts of continents

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15
Q

coastal upwelling occurs when

A

winds blow toward the equator and parallel to the coast

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16
Q

Upwelling brings greater concentrations of:

A

dissolved nutrients to the ocean surface

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17
Q

deep-ocean circulation has a significant _______ component

A

vertical

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18
Q

deep ocean circulation AKA _____ circulation

A

thermohaline

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19
Q

An increase in seawater density can be caused by:

A

decrease in temperature OR increase in salinity

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20
Q

Density changes due to salinity are important in very ___ latitudes

A

high

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21
Q

Where does most water involved in deep-ocean currents begin?

A

high latitudes at the surface

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22
Q

Where surface waters are cold, salinity _____

A

increases

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23
Q

the coastal zone

A

the land/sea interface

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24
Q

waves are:

A

energy traveling along the ocean/air interface

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25
Q

most of the energy to make waves comes from

A

wind

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26
Q

wave period

A

the time it takes for one wavelength to pass by a location/fixed point

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27
Q

the height, wavelength, and period of a wave are affected by: (3)

A

1-wind speed
2-length of time the wind has blown
3-fetch

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28
Q

fetch

A

distance over which the wind blows

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29
Q

surf zone=

A

1/20 wavelength

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30
Q

The beach is

A

a river of sand

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31
Q

whitecaps

A

critical point reached where wave grow tall and topple over

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32
Q

the sea waves seen from shore are a mixture of

A

swells from faraway storms and wave created by local winds

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33
Q

circular orbital motion

A

as the wave travels, the water passes energy along by moving in a circle

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34
Q

surf

A

the turbulent water created by breaking waves

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35
Q

swash

A

turbulent sheet of water from collapsing breakers

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36
Q

backwash

A

water flows back down the beach toward the surf zone

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37
Q

beach (textbook)

A

accumulation of sediment found along the landward margins of the ocean or a lake

38
Q

abrasion

A

the sawing and grinding action of the water armed with rock fragments

39
Q

wave refraction

A

the bending of waves

40
Q

What does wave refraction affect?

A

distribution of energy along the shore

41
Q

beach drift

A

pattern of water movement to transport sediment in a zig zag pattern

42
Q

longshore currents

A

waves that approach the shore at an angle that easily moves the fine sand and larger gravel along the bottom

43
Q

2 types of shoreline features

A

erosional and depositional

44
Q

erosional features

A

1) wave-cut cliff
2) wave-cut platform
3) marine terrace
4) sea arches
5) sea stack

45
Q

depositional features

A

1) spit
2) baymouth bar
3) tombolo
4) barrier islands

46
Q

wave-cut cliffs

A

originate by the cutting of the surf against the base of coastal land

47
Q

wave-cut platform

A

a relatively flat, benchlike surface that’s left behind by the receding cliff

48
Q

marine terrace

A

a wave-cut platform is uplifted above sea level by tectonic forces

49
Q

sea arch

A

when two caves on opposite sides of a headline unite

50
Q

sea stack

A

when the arch falls in, the isolated remnant on the wave-cut platform

51
Q

spit

A

elongated ridge of sand that projects from the land into the mouth of an adjacent bay

52
Q

the end of a spit usually hooks in response to

A

dominant direction of longshore current

53
Q

baymouth bar

A

applied to a sandbar that completely crosses a bay, sealing it off from the open ocean

54
Q

tombolo

A

a ridge of sand that connects and island to the mainland or another island

55
Q

barrier islands

A

low ridges of sand parallel to the coast

56
Q

tallest features on barrier islands

A

sand dunes

57
Q

ways barrier islands form

A

1) originated from spits
2) turbulent waters that heaped up sand
3) former sand dune ridges that originated along the shore during the last glacial period

58
Q

Factors of how coasts respond to different processes

A

1) proximity of coast to sediment-laden rivers
2) degree of tectonic activity
3) topography and composition of the land
4) prevailing winds and weather patterns
5) configuration of coastline and near-shore areas

59
Q

hard stabilization

A

structures built to protect coast from erosion or prevent movement of sand along a beach

60
Q

Human development of coastal areas occurs faster than our

A

understanding of coastal lands

61
Q

hard stabilization structures

A

groins, jetty, breakwaters, seawall

62
Q

groin

A

barrier built at a right angle to the beach to trap sand that is moving parallel to the shore

63
Q

breakwater

A

designed to protect boats from force of large breaking waves creating a quiet water zone near the shore

64
Q

seawall

A

designed to armor the coast and defend property from the force of breaking waves by reflecting the force of waves seaward

65
Q

alternatives to hard stabilization

A

beach nourishment and relocation

66
Q

beach nourishment

A

addition of large quantities of sand to the beach system

not a permanent solution

67
Q

overwash

A

wave carry sand from the beach into the marshes behind the barrier

68
Q

Atlantic Coast beach features

A

barrier islands

69
Q

Pacific Coast beach features

A

relatively narrow beaches that are backed with steep cliffs and mountain ranges

70
Q

major problem facing Pacific shoreline

A

significant narrowing of beaches

71
Q

emergent coasts

A

develop either because an area experiences uplift or as a result of a drop in sea level

72
Q

submergent coasts

A

created when sea level rises or the land adjacent to the sea subsides

73
Q

ex. of emergent coasts

A

California, Hudson Bay region

74
Q

estuaries

A

drowned river mouths created by submergence

75
Q

tides

A

rhythmic changes in the ocean’s surface elevation

76
Q

how tides are produced

A

gravitational pull of the moon and the sun

77
Q

sun or moon is most involved in tides?

A

moon

78
Q

Moon revolves around earth about every ______ days

A

29 1/2

79
Q

neap tide

A

modest high and low tides when the moon is perpendicular to the Earth-sun line. in 1st and 3rd quarters

80
Q

spring tide

A

extreme high and low tides when moon is in line with the Earth and sun, during full moon and new moon

81
Q

diurnal tidal pattern

A

characterized by a single high tide and single low tide each day

82
Q

semidiurnal tidal pattern

A

2 high tides and 2 low tides each day, each the same size

83
Q

mixed tidal pattern

A

2 high tides and 2 low tides each day but with different heights for each high and low tide

84
Q

tidal current

A

term to describe the horizontal flow of water accompanying the rise and fall of the tides

85
Q

flood currents

A

tidal currents that advance into the coastal zone as the tide rises

86
Q

ebb currents

A

seaward moving water as tide falls

87
Q

slack water

A

periods of little or no current

88
Q

tidal flats

A

areas affected by alternating tidal currents

89
Q

tidal deltas

A

created by tidal currents

90
Q

flood deltas

A

develop landward of an inlet

91
Q

ebb deltas

A

on seaward side of an inlet

92
Q

which type of tidal delta is most common and more prominent?

A

flood