Brandy Flashcards

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1
Q

Brandy

A

(frombrandywine, derived fromDutchbrandewijn, or “burnt wine”)is aspirit produced by distilling wine.

The best known distillations from wine are the famous brandies of France, Cognac and Armagnac, but the rest of the world also produces excellent brandies. Spain, Italy, Portugal, Greece, Germany, United States and
South America have a long tradition in Brandy making and are as respected as Cognac or Armagnac. Brandies are almost always 80° proof and the details of production and labeling are controlled by national regulations. Unlike other brandies, Marc and Grappa are distilled not from wine but from the skins and husks of pressed grapes.

Brandy is distilled from fruits such as grapes, apples, blackberries, and apricots just to name a few. It is distilled around the globe. Depending on the region of origin and the type of fruit used, brandy can be classified into many different categories: Cognac and Armagnac, Calvados all French brandies, Applejack, an American apple brandy, Grappa, a grape brandy, etc. Brandy is, in essence, distilled wine. Most brandies are bottled at eighty proof, meaning forty-percent alcohol content.

Brandy has a unique rating system intended to make identification of its many different types and aging categories. A letter system is used to signify the variety of brandy. 
C :: cognac 
E :: extra 
F :: fine 
O :: old
P :: pale
S :: special
V :: very (used to modify S :: special)

Combinations of these letters are used to distinguish different types of brandy. For example, VSOP is “very
special old pale” which is aged for five years in a wood cask and often called five star brandies.

Additional brandy vocabulary includes:
Napoleon :: the brandy is at least four years old, usually much older.
Vintage :: the liquor must be kept inside a wooden cask
Hors D’age :: the exact age of the brandy is unknown.

Brandy is best served at room temperature, though some prefer it warmed.

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2
Q

The History of Brandy

A

The origins of brandy are clearly tied to the development of distillation. Concentrated alcoholic drinks were identified in ancient Greece and Rome and will possibly possess a historic past going back again to historical Babylon. In ancient Greece and Rome, Brandy was used each being an antiseptic and an anesthetic. You can only suppose that ‘drinking for medicinal purposes’ might have originated at the moment. Arab alchemists experimented with distilling grapes and other fruits to be able to make medicinal spirits. Their understanding and methods quickly distribute beyond the borders of Islam. Brandy production appeared in Spain and probably Ireland by the finish from the 8th century.

In 1512 a Dutch trader, searching for a way in which to transport larger quantities of found that by removing the water from the wine he was able to fix more casks onto his ship. He could then add the missing water back to the wine when he reached his destination. This was known as “brandewijn” which meant burnt wine in Dutch and eventually became brandy. Why would the merchant do this? Wine was initially distilled to lessen the tax which was assessed by volume. The trader meant to add the water removed by distillation back again in to the brandy before consumption. With less volume, there was much less taxation.

But to the trader’s shock, following getting been stored in wooden casks, the distilled wine experienced turn out to be much more flavorful. By eliminating water, the distillation procedure resulted n the formation and break-up of varied aroma compounds, creating a higher concentration of flavor.

Cognac, one of the more famous and popular brandies, originated in the seventeenth century when the Cognacais family began to double distill their wines. This drink quickly became one of the most essential and profitable exports in France. It was first exported to Holland, the birthplace of the liquor, and was soon expended to England, the Far East, and the New World. In France, cognac became the drink of choice for the aristocracy. The King use to partake of its fruity and potent taste with strict regularity. Cognac, both then and to this present day, is produced in the Cognac region of France. Cognac it made from white wine, which is produced from the vineyards of this area.

Brandies saw their introduction into the New World in the late seventeenth century. Spanish monks, who developed a taste for the drink before they left Europe, brought with them to the New World many casks of Brandy. However, when they ran out of it they quickly found that the native grapes that grew in
California were a perfect source for brandy. They also found that other fruits could be used to produce the much-loved drink. At this time several other counties were also discovering the cacophony of fruit that brandy could be derived from. Germany, Greece, Italy, Portugal, Australia, and South Africa were all producing fruit brandy by the end of the eighteenth century.

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3
Q

Cognac

A

The practice of condensing for shipment overseas the wine of the Charente region by a primitive form of distillation became established as early as the 15th century. These would have been rough ‘low wines’ with alcohol content around
25%. The idea was not so much to produce a spirit as to save on casks and shipping space and to preserve the none-too-robust wine on long voyages. Not until the 17th century, following the great improvements in commercial distilling initiated by the Dutch, did an unknown distiller in the Cognac region treat his ‘low wines’ to a second distillation. By this means the ‘soul of the wine’ was truly extracted and a strong wine spirit, redolent of the grape, first saw light in France: Cognac brandy was born. Incarceration in wood for export showed the benefits of maturing.

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4
Q

The Cognac Region

A

Of course, there was originally no definition of the Cognac region: it just
happened that the best French brandy came from there and thus attracted the
name of the central town. It would have been as viable to name it Jarnac brandy,
after the more charming second town, which shelters three notable grande marque houses, but cognac it became and remains. The names of some other brandies —coñac, kanyak, and the like, pay tribute to cognac’s supremacy.

However, most countries by law or tradition reserve the word cognac for the genuine French product.

In the mid 19th century when cognac had established a worldwide reputation, it happened that two friends, a geologist and a spirit expert, visited the area to test a theory. The geologist believed that by analysis of the soil he could say in which ground would grow grapes whose wine would be most suitable for distillation. The spirit expert was able to confirm his companion’s findings. This was eventually the basis for the very strict demarcation of the carefully defined Cognac region’s six divisions. These are, in descending order of prestige,

1) Grande Champagne
2) Petite Champagne
3) Borderies
4) Fins Bois
5) Bons Bois
6) Bois Ordinaires.

The word champagne used to describe the region for cognac has caused a certain amount of confusion over the times. It has absolutely nothing to do with the wine of the same name. People will sometimes refer to a ‘champagne cognac’, as if conferring a special status on brandy: there is no such thing as a ‘champagne cognac’. Champagne in a cognac context is a local derivation from the Latin campania, an open space, a field or a small district. It is a survival from Roman occupation of the region.

To justify the word cognac, a brandy must be solely a product of the region, made in accordance with the strict regulations controlling size and type of stills and many other details.

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5
Q

Good wine makes poor brandy

A

The wine of Cognac is practically undrinkable as such, it is harsh and acidic, and you could almost make a general rule that good wine makes poor brandy. The harvest is fairly late. The newly made wine is run into stone, concrete or metal vats. Maturation is avoided: the wine must retain its original attributes, for it is these that give cognac its unique character. Distillation starts immediately and continues until the following spring.

The first distillation of ‘low wines’, brouilli, contains about 28% alcohol. The brouilli may be made in stills containing as much as 100 hectolitres, but the second distillation, the bonne chauffe, must come from an alembic still (maximum 25 hectolitres) and must not contain more than 72% alcohol.

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6
Q

Maturation

A

The new cognac is put into casks of French oak. The main supply is traditionally from the Limousin forests, but the very different Trocais oak —a tall, comparatively slender tree— is much used nowadays. The casks of cognac are stored in chais. The old chais —and some are very old — are low buildings with earthen floors, well ventilated. The idea is to keep them as cool and damp as possible. Modern chais are lofty, with casks stored on high racks. Both serve equally well, though romance is all on the side of the ancient chais, their roofs covered with a peculiar moss that feeds on the evaporation of the spirit —the fabled ‘angels’ share’.

The air is fairly dry and summer temperatures high, and the evaporation is considerably greater than in Scotland. The holder of the biggest maturing stocks, Martell, estimates that it loses the equivalent of two million bottles a year.

At the annual stocktaking, the topping up of casks compensates for evaporation with spirit from newer ones, building up average age. Some fine cognac will be left to mature unblended, though usually ‘refreshed’ with spirit of similar age and type to keep the cask full. Very old cognac, called the “paradis” by the distillers, is kept in large non-reactive glass containers and used to season younger batch blends.

New casks are seasoned by being first filled with lesser grades and only when they are well impregnated with spirit, and are unlikely to impart excessive tannin to their contents, are they used.

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7
Q

When can cognac be sold?

A

Virtually all cognac sold is a blend of brandy of different ages and from several zones and distillers.

Under French law a cognac may not be sold with a date. There are, however, some exceptions each year from leading houses which are dated and sent exclusively to the U.K., the largest purchasing nation of cognac.

Like any other spirit, cognac cannot improve in bottle. By bottle age it may acquire rarity value, nothing more. It can quite easily deteriorate. Vintage cognac, which is almost exclusively a British phenomenon, attracts prestige.

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8
Q

The Napoleonic Myth of Cognac

A

A number of great brands of cognac include ‘Napoleon’ grade —usually, though not always, their costliest. The fickle public having attached special magic to the imperial title, the cognac-producer can hardly be blamed for pandering to it. This aspect of the cognac business is wrapped in mystery. Napoleon was an abstemious man, though his native Corsica, and Burgundy, were to claim him as favoring their wines.

The nearest there is to a source for the Bonaparte legend is the presentation to him of a cask of cognac, in 1811, to celebrate the birth of his son, the unfortunate King of Rome. After Napoleon’s fall, a quantity of this appears to have been sent to England where it was late bottled as Fine Champagne Impériale 1811, with an embossed ‘N’ on the shoulder of the bottle.

Various editions of this, and also of ‘Napoleon’ vintages 1805 and 1809, turn up. They may be truly antique, or counterfeits. In terms of commerce, there is no such thing as Napoleon I cognac. It would be most certainly undrinkable.

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9
Q

What’s in a bottle of Cognac?

A

There are several points to ponder when looking at a bottle of cognac. Some houses use three stars to signify their standard grade. This does not mean it is three years old, minimum age for the important British market, for the average age of a reputable cognac of this grade will be higher: it is simply a convention.

If there are more stars on the label, that is a brand-owner’s whim but of no actual meaning. Some brands have rejected the stellar system in favor of invented names. The widely used VSOP title stands for ‘Very Special (or Superior) Old Pale’ and stems from the time about a century ago when cognac changed from the heavier style —in flavor and color— favored by upper-class Englishmen to the paler type of today. It denotes a grade that is more aged than the same company’s three star or similar. It should not contain brandy that has been less than four years in wood.

A number of other descriptions are employed as well, mostly peculiar to individual firms, and they must be learned by experience. Cognac-drinkers will also grow to prefer the products of the various grandes marques: there are not that many. These are the firms on whose traditions and reputation rest the integrity and quality of cognac.

Old cognac that has cork as a closure must be kept stored upright or the spirit will attack the cork and be ruined. It will over many years, even if the cork is sealed, lose some strength by evaporation, but without harmful effect.

When opened, an old cognac should not be kept indefinitely in bottle or decanter if there is a good deal of air space: the remainder should be transferred to a smaller vessel.

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10
Q

Armagnac

A

Armagnac(French pronunciation:​[aʁ.maˈɲak]) is a distinctive kind ofbrandyproduced in theArmagnac regionin Gascony, southwestFrance. It isdistilledfromwineusually made from a blend of grapes includingBaco 22A, Colombard,Folle blancheandUgni blanc, traditionally usingcolumn stillsrather than thepot stillsused in the production ofCognac. The resulting spirit is thenagedinoakbarrelsbefore release. Production is overseen by the Institute national de l’origine et de la qualité(INAO) and the Bureau National Interprofessionel de l’Armagnac (BNIA).

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11
Q

History of Armagnac

A

The Romans introduced wine into the areas of South-west France. The Arabs brought the still and finally, the Celts developed the use of the barrel. They could meet only in Gascogne. Known from the Middle Ages for its therapeutic virtues

Armagnac took its rise in the 16th century to become a true product for human consumption.

Distillation and marketing reach their high point in 19th century. About 1878, an grape disease destroyed almost all the vineyards. However gradually, the wine is reinstalled in Armagnac and in 1909 a state decree delimits the zone of production of this brandy with Controlled Label of Origin. The decree of August 6, 1936 will specify the conditions of development of Armagnac.

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12
Q

The Vineyards of Armagnac

A

Located at the heart of Gascogne, the vineyards of Armagnac cover approximately 15000 hectares and include most of the county of Gers, like some cantons of the Moors and of the Batch and the Garonne. It consists of soft
and quite exposed slopes with sandy, clay or chalky soil.

One distinguishes three areas of production:

  • In the West, Low-Armagnac (Bas Armagnac) extends on sandy soils, muddy grounds and acids known as fawn-colored sands, where the delicate and fruity brandies are
    produced. It covers appx. 55% of the production.
  • To the center lays Armagnac-Tenarèze, rich in clay soils that give the brandy sharp and more vigorous taste and express all their richness after a prolonged aging. It covers 40% of production.
  • In the East on chalky soils lays High-Armagnac (Haut-Armagnac) where the culture of Brandy making developed in the 19th century in a period of keen demand, but represents today a very weak share of the production about 5%.
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13
Q

Types of wines used in the distillation of Armagnac

A

Armagnac is obtained from the distillation of white wines primarily starting from the following types:

  • White Ugni
  • Colombard
  • White Fol
  • White Baco,
  • White Rams (Pale of Gascogne)
  • Lubricate
  • White Jurançon
  • White and rose Mauzac
  • St. Meslier François

Production of Armagnac starts with the pressing of the white wines collected in October, month of the grape harvest. Vinified in a traditional way, these wines don’t have any chemical or technological infusions. They are characterized by: a frankness from taste, a relatively small alcoholic strength (from 8 to 10% vol.), and a significant total acidity.

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14
Q

Distillation of Armagnac

A

It must take place before March 31 which follows the fall harvest. It is done traditionally with the still armagnaçaise developed in 1818 by a patent of the King Louis the 18th: the wine is then distilled continuously. Distillation with double-heating used for example to produce Cognac is practiced for a very small part of the production.

The armagnaçaise method is softer and preferred because it preserves more components of the grape content and has a more particular taste. At the exit of the still, the brandy is colorless and titrates between 52 and 72 % alcohol by volume.

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15
Q

Aging of Armagnac

A

When the distillation is over, Armagnac is placed in oak barrels called “parts”, capacity 400 to 420 liters whose wood comes from the forests of Gascogne or
the Limousin. The barrels are then stored in wine storehouses and left to age.

Aging in the oak makes it possible for the brandy to be refined and to grow rich,
following complex reactions during which the tannic and aromatic matters of wood dissolve in alcohol.

The young brandies remain in new parts until the moment of dissolution of the substances of wood is optimal. They are then transferred in older barrels to finish the started transformations.

When the Master of wine storehouse considers aging sufficient, he begins the cuts, i.e. the harmonious assembly several brandies of origins and different ages.

They are sold at least to 40 % alcohol by volume (80 proof) and thus reduced by successive steps by means of small water prepared in the secrecy of the wine storehouses. However, some old Armagnacs, generally vintage, are marketed with their natural degree of aging.

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16
Q

Conservation and language of the labels of Armagnac

A

The mentions of aging indicated on the label of Armagnac always relate to the youngest brandy being able to enter the assembly:

1.” Three Stars “ or V.S. for Armagnacs of at least two years of aging under wood (account of age 1)

2.” ORIGINAL VERSION “, “ V.S.O.P. “ or “ Reserves “ for Armagnacs of at least
five years of aging under wood (account of age 4), 89

  1. ” Extra “, “ Napoléon “, “ X.O. “, “ Vieille Réserves “ for Armagnacs of at least six years of aging under wood (account of age 5),
  2. “Hors d’Age” (Out of age) for Armagnacs of at least ten years of aging under wood.

The year, specificity armagnaçaise, corresponds exclusively to the year of harvest mentioned on the label.

17
Q

Calvados

A

(French pronunciation:​[kal.va.dos]) is an applebrandyfrom the Frenchregion of Lower Normandy (Basse-Normandie).

18
Q

History of Calvados

A

In 1588 King Philip of Spain sent the Armada on its mission to conquer England. During the voyage one of the ships, namely El Salvador, was wrecked off the French coast.

The El Salvador was an important ship, perhaps because of its passengers or perhaps due to the treasures aboard. Legend has it that the inhabitants named

the region where the ship was wrecked after the unfortunate vessel and, from that time onwards the area was known as Calvados. In 1790, following the French revolution, the system of departments was created and the name of Calvados was officially given to this department.

Distilled cider is a long established tradition. The first official written references date from the 16th century, long before it took the name of Calvados. On 28th March 1553, a member of the local gentry from the Cotentin peninsular - the Sire of Gouberville - described the distillation of cider with a view to obtaining a drinkable apple spirit in his diaries. It was also during this time in the 16th century that a cider distiller co-operative was formed, this organization later became an official body.

Until 1942, calvados had its own AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) but today it is produced throughout the region of Normandy, from Cherbourg to Mont Saint-Michel, as far east as the borders of the Seine-Maritime region and further south, in the district of Eure very close to Paris. According to the place of origin and production method, the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO)recognizes three distinct categories: ‘calvados’, ‘calvados du Pays d’Auge’ and ‘calvados Domfrontais.’ Calvados belonging to the first two categories is made entirely from apples, while ‘calvados Domfrontais’ has one important and distinctive characteristic: it must contain a minimum of 30% pears.

19
Q

Apples and Stills of Calvados

A

Just as a great wine is born in the vineyard, a great calvados has to come from the orchard. The selection of the fruit is paramount. Sweet, acidic or tart, cider apples differ from eating apples in their small size and the richness of the tannins in their skin, where the aromas are found. Their names, unfortunately often impossible to translate, evoke sheer delight: ‘bisquet,’ ‘sanspareille’ (‘incomparable’), ‘forge-patin’ (‘throw-a-kiss’), ‘blanc mollet’ (‘tender white’), ‘groin d’âne’ (‘ass’s nose’) and so on.

The apples are selected according to the type of calvados required, and picked from the trees or gathered as windfalls, then stored for several weeks until they ripen fully. When they are ready, they are grated or crushed whole and macerated for a few hours before proceeding to the press. The fermentation of the must, or mash, begins in the barrels and continues, after racking, in cool cellars for about two months. The resulting cider, which has an alcohol content of between 4.5 and 5 percent, is then distilled, an operation that is carried out only in the spring or autumn months.

Two types of alembic still are used. Calvados and calvados Domfrontais producers use a continuous still that involves a single distillation process. The very finest calvados, the calvados du Pays d’Auge, requires double distillation in a pot still. In both cases, the foreshot head and the feint (or tails) are drawn off to be distilled again as they are considered too unrefined. Only the heart of the distillate is used. When it emerges from the still, the calvados has an alcohol content of between 68 and 72 percent. To get it to ‘redescendre’ – fall back – to 40 degrees and assume its characteristic color, distilled water is added and the liquid is aged for two years in very old oak casks. Calvados Domfrontais is aged for three years. The art of the cellarmaster essentially lies in the ability to blend calvados obtained from different harvests or different areas to produce the desired spirit.

20
Q

Calvados Statistics

A

1,572 municipalities. 12,000 cider apple growers. 550 agricultural producers-distillers.

70 wholesalers and cooperative producers.

Average annual production: 350,000 tons of apple cider, of which 116,660 are used in the production of calvados.

One ton of apples makes between 650 and 750 liters of 100 percent cider.

To make one liter of 70-degree calvados requires approximately 13 liters of cider with a five percent alcohol content, equivalent to the juice of 18-20 kilograms of apples.

21
Q

Reading the label of Calvados

A

The age of a calvados is not required to be mentioned on the label. When it does appear, it must comply with a certain format.

‘Three stars’ / ‘three apples’ :: aged in barrels for a minimum of two years

‘Vieux’ (old) / ‘réserve’ (reserve) :: aged for three years.

‘VO’ / ‘Vieille réserve’ (old reserve) / ‘VSOP’ :: aged for four years

‘Extra’ or ‘Napoléon’, and ‘hors d’âge’ (superior aged) or ‘d’âge inconnu (age unknown) calvados has been aged for at least six years.

If the calvados is a blend, only the youngest of the spirits it contains is indicated.

22
Q

Applejack, or American Apple Brandy

A

Applejackis a strongalcoholic beverageproduced from apples, popular in theAmerican colonial period.

23
Q

History of Applejack

A

Applejack was historically made by concentratingcider, either by the traditional method offreeze distillationor by true evaporative distillation. The term “applejack” derives from “jacking”, a term for freeze distillation.The modern product Laird’s Applejack is not produced by jacking. That product is a blend of apple brandy and neutral spirits.

InNew Jersey, applejack was used as currency to pay road construction crews during the colonial period. A slang expression for the beverage was ‘Jersey Lightning’. The oldest licensed distillery in the United States,Laird & Company, inScobeyville, New Jersey, was until recently the country’s only remaining producer of applejack, and during the American Revolution,George Washingtonasked Robert Laird for his recipe for “cyder spirits”.

24
Q

Production of Applejack

A

Freeze distillation is a low-infrastructure method of production compared to evaporative distillation. Apples and applejack have historically been easy to produce in small quantities. Hard apple cider was an important drink in the
colonial and early years of the United States, particularly in areas without access to clean water, but was often considered insufficiently palatable and bulky to store.

Rather than consume an alcoholic fruit beer, the cider harvested in the fall was often separated in the winter via freeze distillation, by leaving it outside and periodically removing the frozen chunks of ice, thus concentrating the unfrozen alcohol in the remaining liquid. From the fermented juice, with an alcohol content of less than 10%, the concentrated result contains 30-40% alcohol.

25
Q

Pisco

A

Piscois a colorless or yellowish-to-amber coloredgrapebrandyproduced inwinemakingregions ofChileandPeru. Pisco was developed bySpanish settlersin the 16th century as an alternative toorujo, apomace brandythat was being imported fromSpain. In 2013, the annual production reached 100 million liters in Chile and 7.2 million liters in Peru.

26
Q

History of Pisco

A

Pisco (from Quechua: pisqu, little bird) is a liquor distilled from grapes developed by the Spanish in the 16th century, and named after the city of Pisco, of the Viceroyalty of Peru in an attempt to make an inexpensive version of the Spanish brandy called Orujo. In modern times, it continues to be produced in wine producing regions of Peru and Chile. The drink is a widely consumed spirit in the nations of Bolivia, Chile and Peru. The right to produce and promote pisco has been the matter of legal disputes between Chile and Peru, both of which hold their most iconic cocktail to be the pisco sour.

Pisco received its name from the town of Pisco, located on the coast of Peru. The origins of the word pisco can be traced to the Quechua language where the birds that inhabited the valleys of the Ica region were called pisqu (or any of: pisco, pisku, phishgo, pichiu, pisccu depending on the orthography). The origin of the city of Pisco is said to be from pre-Incan times when the area was ruled by people known as the Piskus. The importance of the city incremented under Spanish rule due to its proximity to the coast and its exportation of aguardiente from Ica, and in time these drinks would come to bear the name “Pisco.”

The first vineyards in the Viceroyalty of Peru were planted in the fertile coastal valleys of Peru shortly after the arrival of the Spanish Conquistadors. The Marquis Francisco de Caravantes was the first to import grapes, bringing them from the Canary Islands in 1553. Even though Spain imposed many restrictions on wine production and commerce, the wine-making industry developed rapidly, such as in the Corregimiento of Ica in Peru and the Elqui Valley called the “zona pisquera,” in Chile.

In the late 1550s, the Spanish began to plant and harvest export quality grapes selected to produce wine with, while those that did not measure up were discarded or given to the farmers to do with as they pleased. It is in this context that small groups began to use these grapes to distill a brandy-like liquor from the discarded grapes, using similar techniques to those used in Spain for the production of brandy.

The oldest written historical record of grape brandy production in the Spanish colonies date back to Peru 1613. It is in the will of a resident of the department of Ica—a town called Pisco, close to the Nazca lines, by the name of Pedro Manuel the Greek. In it he itemizes his worldly goods, including 30 containers of grape brandy, one barrel of the same spirit, a large copper pot and all of the utensils needed to produce pisco.

In 1641, wine imports from the Viceroyalty of Peru into Spain were banned, severely damaging the wine industry in the colony; only a few vineyards that had parallel wine and pisco operations survived this change. The market loss caused the huge surplus of grapes to be made into brandy. The concentration solely on pisco production, nearly eliminated wine production in Peru.

Pisco was considered a lesser beverage by the Spanish and not consumed by them unless they were poor or curious. Spaniards preferred the original liquor which is called Orujo and which they deemed to possess a better flavor. The liquor made in South America was not called Pisco for a long time, although it is reported the Spanish usually called it “aguardiente” (firewater), which was a generic name for any brandy type liquor.

The drink began to acquire consumers in the sailors that transported products between the colonies and Spain, who began to call it pisco, naming it after the port where it could be bought. The drink then became a favorite of sailors and workers who visited the port of Pisco. It was exalted for its strong taste and ability to quickly affect the consumer. As trade from Peru to the world grew, so did the popularity of pisco, until it almost equaled wine in quantity as an export.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, pisco was a mainstay on ocean-crossing vessels, drunk mostly by sailors, as officers usually drank whisky or other “finer” spirits. The main reasons for its heyday were the low price and high availability. This position was maintained by pisco until the onset of rum, which won over consumers with lower prices and a softer flavor.

Pisco was also briefly popular in San Francisco and nearby areas of California during the Gold Rush in the 19th century, where it was introduced by Chilean and Peruvian miners.

27
Q

Peruvian Pisco

A

It is important to remark the fact that Pisco production was never stopped in Peru and there is many documents demonstrating that fact. In the 1940s one of the most emblematic brands of Pisco was founded by two cousins from Italy, Pedro Raggio and Francisco Queirolo. After the death of Pedro Raggio and later his brother Vittorio Raggio, the Queirolo family took over and still today manufacture the pisco and wine product in the city of Magdalena. Production ramped up and Peru began to export pisco as a national product at that time, however, due to the nation’s focus on raw materials exports, pisco was not given much prominence. National sentiment began to flare up in the 1960s when Chile decided to ban all imports of any product denominated “pisco” coming from Peru.

From that time on, Peru has been constantly trying to enforce the denomination of “pisco” as a Peruvian-only product, beginning at first with internal rules and regulations pertaining to the harvesting of grapes, distillation and storage requirements for a product to be named “pisco”, and finally establishing trademarks and other legal processes. Peru presented an application for international registration in the WIPO (World Intellectual Property Organization), according to the Lisbon Agreement (23 countries parties). After one year from the date of receipt of the application, the protection of the appellation of origin takes effect in all member countries of the Lisbon Union that have not rejected it.

(Chile, it should be noted, rejected it).

All Peruvian Pisco is made in small batch style to maintain the strictest of adherence to national code (and to differentiate themselves from the mass production of Chile). Eight grape varietals are permitted:

Non Aromatic 
Quebranta 
Negra Criolla 
Mollar 
Uvina
Aromatic 
Italia
Torontel
Moscatel
Albilla

The juice is extracted from the grapes and fermented. Distillation must take place
immediately thereafter. The term “non aromatic” should not be taken literally.
Even pisco distilled from non aromatice Quebranta grapes is fruity and flavorful,
but typically not as prominent as one, for example, made with Moscatel grapes.

The regulation states that Pisco has to follow traditional distillation methods of high quality spirits. Peruvian Pisco may only be distilled directly and dis-continuosly (in batches). The head and the tail of each distillation have to be
separated and only the heart of each distillation batch may be used for Peruvian Pisco. The pot stills to produce Peruvian Pisco have to be made of copper or pewter.

28
Q

Chilean Pisco

A

In an effort to dominate the pisco market, Chile turned away from small batch distilling and began using Coffey or Continuous stills to produce large quantities. Due to the inherent volume of production and the larger yield of crop, Chilean pisco is typically cheaper and more readily available. During the adaptation of many vineyards to pisco production, the most widespread grape was used as raw material, namely the Muscat, with some vineyards preferring the Torontel and Pedro Jiménez varieties. As is the case with Peru, regulations for pisco designations have been enacted in Chile:

  • Regular, 30% to 35% (60 to 70 proof).
  • Special, 35% to 40% (70 to 80 proof).
  • Reserve, 40% to 43% (80 to 86 proof).
  • Great, 43% or more (86 or more proof).
  • No distinction between varietal mixes is made other than it is restricted to thethree kinds of grapes named above.
  • Regular pisco is quite bland in taste, reminiscent of a weak rum, and its odor is very sweet and woody with a slight yellowish tinge to the color.
  • Special and reserve are very similar in flavor and color, both being very sweet and of a cloudy yellowish color. The flavor is much stronger than regular pisco and leaves an alcoholic aftertaste in the mouth, similar to bourbon.
  • Great pisco has a commanding odor and a very pleasant dark yellow color, it is not as sweet as the other varieties, yet it carries strong woody flavor the others lack.
  • The yellowish to amber color in Chilean pisco is due to the wood aging process, with the darker colors being a telltale sign that they have been aged longer. Not all Chilean pisco is tinged, and the more mass-marketed brands can be clear.