Boilermaking Tools 34103-10

Question 1

Intro

Answer 1

BM’s use tools of other trades-pipefitting, welding, plumbing.

Question 2

Hand Tools

Answer 2

Although not immediately dangerous, improper use of hand tools can cause injury. Some more dangerous than others and require additional measures when used. Basic rules of safe handling:
Choose proper tool for job
Never use tool for anything other than intended use. I.e. a screwdriver as a pry bar
Never use dull/broken tools. Dull tools require greater force to do the job. A sharp tool is a safe tool.
Keep hands and fingers away from sharp edge of cutting tools. Work away from your body when using cutting tools.
Ensure a tool is in good condition and that the handle is tightly fastened to the tool.
Keep tools clean and free of rust.
Wear eye protection when using chisels, punches, or other tools that cause flying debris
Wear gloves when required
Use tools in safe and proper manner
Do not modify a hand tool

Question 3

Pipe Wrenches

Answer 3

Different sizes types. Made to turn pipe or hold it stationary. Come in 6, 12, 14, 18, 24, 36, 48, and 60 inches. Length determines the size of pipe it can handle. Choosing right size is important. Too small will not hold the pipe firmly, too short will not provide enough leverage. Too large can stripe the threads, break pipe or fitting, or cause excessive marking/scratching of the pipe.
Several types of pipe wrenches are used:
Straight, Offset, Compound Leverage, Chain, and Strap pipe wrenches.
The Straight is most common. When working in tight spaces, offset (45 or 90 degrees) offset wrench.
Jaws of pipe wrenches always leave marks, so don’t use them where appearance is important.
When applying force to a wrench, always direct it toward the open side of the jaws-will give you the best grip and leverage.
Compound-leverage pipe wrench-variation of the straight pipe wrench. It increases the leverage that can be applied on a pipe. Generally used on frozen or locked pipe joints.
Chain Wrench-Variation of the pipe wrench. Has a length of chin permanently attached to wrench handle at one end. Chain is looped around the pipe to grip and secure, and the other end of the chain can be secured as loose or tight as needed. Oil chain frequently to keep it from becoming stiff/rusty.
Strap wrench-Used to hold chrome-plated or other types of finished pipe. Does not leave jaw marks or scratches. On some strap wrenches, apply rosin to strap so it doesn’t slip. Others use vinyl straps that don’t need rosin.

Question 4

Vises and Stands

Answer 4

BMs use pipe vises and stands to temporarily support pipe or other materials being worked on. Especially designed to hold pipe/other round objects.

Question 5

Pipe Vises Info

Answer 5

BM’s use standard, yoke, chain, and strap vises. All are designed to hold or clamp. However yoke, chain, and strap vises are made for piping jobs. The yoke vise is similar to standard vise except it is hinged to open vertically so object to be held may be laid into the vise. Chain or strap vises also open so the object to be held can be laid in easily. Chain or strap vises allow larger objects to be held.

Question 6

Steps to Use Pipe Vise

Answer 6

1 Obtain pipe
2 Identify where work is to be performed (location of work may determine type of vise needed, some vises may do job better than others)
3 Select vise
4 Inspect vise for obvious damage. Jaw wear, screw play, work out chain links/strap, grease rust, dirt. Fix or replace if any damage found. for grease or dirt, clean and oil as needed.
5 Check to see if vise is securely mounted (to prevent injury to user and damage to vise, pipe, or other nearby equipment)
6 Loosen and open the vise
7 Place pipe in vise (use softener between pipe and jaw, or a strap vise, use jack stand or similar to support section not in vise)
8 Close and secure movable side of vise
9 Tighten
10 Perform work on pipe (when sawing, saw as close to the vise as possible. Don’t use vise as anvil. Don’t use cheater bar for extra tightening)
11 Hold pipe in vise, and loosen vise grip until movable side of vise can be fully opened.
12 Remove Pipe
13 Inspect vise for damage, correct any problem
Clean vise of dust, dirt, grease, shavings, chips-especially in screw area and chain links. Clean general area around vise.
14 Close and secure movable side of vise.
15 Store vise if portable and no longer needed

Question 7

Pipe Jack Stands

Answer 7

Support devices often used in repair or fabrication of pipe. Some have rollers on the tops or yokes that allow the object supported to be easily maneuvered/rolled and worked on safely.
Three legged jacks-used for 6-inch and smaller pipe, are vertically adjustable.
Four-legged pipes can hold pipe up to 24 inches in diameter. The wheels on top of four-legged stands can be adjusted horizontally to fit different diameters of pipe. All jack stands have load rating stamped on them that must not be exceeded.
Jack stands and roller assemblies should not be field-fabricated. Load capacities built in by manufacturers. Only commercial jack stands and rollers to be used. Field fab jack stands can fail and cause injury/death. Due to potential for tipping, pipes over 6 inches in diameter should be supported with 4 legged stands.

Question 8

Steps to use jack stands

Answer 8

1 Select type of support device needed
2 Inspect selected supports for obvious damage: bent, rusted or weakened legs/supports; grease on the yokes, rusted wheels that won’t turn easily, damaged screw threads, collar adjustment handles that will not turn. If support is damaged, replace it. If in need of cleaning/oiling, do it before device is used. Oil should be placed on threads only.
3 Select a level, safe location to set supports while being used.
4 Position supports in a straight line and space them so two will support each section of pipe
5 Turn collar adjustment on each support so yokes are fully lowered.
6 Ensure all yokes roughly level with each other.
7 Position first section of pipe onto one set of supports.
8 Position inside end support for second section of pipe so it does not touch the end support for first section.
9 Position section of pipe onto second set of supports.
Push two sections of pipe together until ends meet.
Adjust main body tubes and collar adjustments of supports to make the two sections of pipe roughly level with each other.
10 Push the two sections of pipe together carefully until the ends meet
11 Adjust the main body tubes and collar adjustments of the supports to make the two sections of pipe roughly level with each other.

Question 9

Levels

Answer 9

Used to determine plumb and levelness of pipe.
Plumb refers to vertical alignment
Level refers to horizontal alignment
Several types are used by BMs: framing levels, torpedo levels, string line levels, tubing water levels. Most are made of tough, lightweight metals, like magnesium or aluminum.
Generally have 3 vials, 2 to measure plumb and one to measure level. Not enough liquid spirit to fill each vial. Creates a bubble when level is held in horizontal position. Centering the bubble between the lines signifies levelness or plumbness. Measure for trueness before using by placing it by a level of known accuracy.

Question 10

Framing Levels

Answer 10

Come in a variety of sizes. Longer more accurate than shorter. Most common sizes are 18, 24, 28, and 48 inches. Most BMs carry a 24-inch framing level. Frame is milled and ground on top and bottom to be uniformly parallel and smooth. Available with or without 45 degree vial.

Question 11

Torpedo levels.

Answer 11

Approximately 9 inches long and tapered at both ends. Best used in tight places or when precision is not critical. The top has a groove running down the center from end to end-helps it sit on the round surface of the pipe. Bottom sides of some have magnets encased so they will adhere to metal pipes. Have 3 vials and measure level, plumb, and true 45 degrees. All BMs should carry one.

Question 12

String line level

Answer 12

A specialty level that is used in the horizontal plane only. Main application is to check to see if a line or string is level between two points. Normally used to transfer elevation benchmarks between two locations. Since it is small, it’s not accurate and not recommended for critical measurements. Only has one glass vial and is mounted in a lightweight case. Hooks attached to the top of the line level so it can be hung on a taught line. Used the same way as other levels when hung-bubble always moves to the high end of the string. Level should be placed to the center of the line.

Question 13

Tubing water level

Answer 13

1/2” to 1” clear plastic tube generally 50 feet long and partially filled with water. BMs use it to achieve an accurate reading of level between two points. Can also be used to transfer elevation benchmarks between two locations. It’s preferred over the string level because it is more accurate.
To use it, you need a helper. One person holds the tube end vertically near the reference point, and adjusts the tube until the water level is even with the reference point. Another person takes the other end of the tube and holds it vertically at the other end. Water level in tube rests exactly even with the water level at the other end of the tube. Tie a string between these two points and it will be perfectly level.

Question 14

Laser level

Answer 14

Laser levels use coherent light to direct a straight line from point to point. The laser light is generated within a unit which is set level by the user. It comes in many varieties for different purposes. Common types used in boilermaking are tripod-mounted and magnetic-based lasers, accurate within a quarter inch at 50 feet.

Question 15

Squares

Answer 15

Used as a standard of measurement for a 90-degree angle. When two lines are at a 90 degree angle with each other, they are said to be square.

Question 16

Framing square

Answer 16

Also known as carpenter square or steel square- used by BMs for:
Laying out guidelines for cutting steel and pipe, then squaring up adjacent markings at right angles
Using tables and scales on the square for measuring and fabricating
Determining plum or square fits in fabricating, with the use of a tape or rule
Aligning two sections of pipe or fitting to a pipe
Finding and laying out the center lines of a pipe
Checking the end of a pipe square
–
Consists of two parts, the tongue and the body/blade. Tongue is the shorter, narrower part and the body is the longer, wider part. The point at which the tongue and the body meet on the outside edge is called the heel. Two most common sizes are 12x8 inch and 24x16 inch.

Question 17

Pipefitter’s square

Answer 17

Built on same principle as framing square, pipefitter’s square is designed specifically for pipefitting applications. Main difference between the two is tables and graduations. Pipefitter’s square has takeoffs, dimensions, ordinates, and other information for pipe fab and layout. Can be used in all the same ways as framing square, with added advantage of having tables that eliminate many calculations. Take care of tool bc it can be bent out of square easily. Can rust if exposed to elements. Pipefitter’s square is usually more expensive than framing square.

Question 18

Combination square

Answer 18

Sometimes called a combination tri square. A versatile tool composed of 4 parts, giving it a variety of uses in layout and fab. These four components include a grooved steel rule graduated into scales of 1/8, 1/16, 1/3, and 1/64 inch; a locking square head with a level glass, a locking center head, and a protractor with a revolving turret marked with degrees. All of these parts are removable and can be used independently.
The components of a combo square allow for many uses. Can be used for many functions of a framing square and as a height and depth guage, bevel or angle potractor, level, plumb, square and center finder, and as a ruler.
To attach components, loosen spring loaded locking nut, allowing part to be fitted into groove on steel rule. Lock nut after desired position is obtained. To remove component, loosen locking nut and slide component off the steel rule.
The square head and rule are use for measureing height, depth, plumb, levelness, squareness, or laying out ngles.
Center head and rule of combo squre are used to find center line of pipe and other cylindrical objects. Center line of pipe is found by adjusting depth of the rule so protruding edge of the rule is about 1/16 inch off surface of the pipe when the center head is placed on the pipe. Level is placed against the long end of the rule, above the center head, and the square is moved until the glass vial reads level. Location of the rule on the pipe is then marked for the center line.
Protractor head is used for laying out and marking angles in the same manner as the square head and rule by revolving the rogtating turret to the desired angle. By placing a level on the steel rule, protractor can be used to determine the degree of slope of a pipe. Place the edge of the protractor on the pipe, then rotate the turret until the level on the rule reads true. Angle on the protractor is the degree of the slope.

Question 19

Center Finders

Answer 19

Also used to find center of a pipe. Also known as centering head-consists of a Y-type head that straddles the pipe, a centering pin, and an adjustable dial bubble protractor for indicating center at some angle away from top dead center.
To mark top dead center, set the center finder on top of the pipe, and adjust til the bubble indicates center. A light blow with a hammer to the centering pin makes an indention to the surface to mark its center.

Question 20

Pipe Line-Up Clamp

Answer 20

Range from simple field-fabricated jigs to large hydraulic clamps capable of aligning pressure vessels with external diameters of over 30 feet. Even though there are many differences in the types of pipe line up clamps, they all keep pipes square and level before and during welding. Most common pipe line-up clamps are straight butt welding (jewel) clamps and aligning dogs.

Question 21

Straight butt welding clamp

Answer 21

Chain type clamps used to secure two straight pipes together end to end. Consist of straight sections of steel approx. 14-18 inches long and 2 lengths of chain, one near each end, attached to screw locks that can tighten the chain once it has been wrapped around the pipe.

Question 22

Using straight butt welding clamp

Answer 22

1 Inspect clamp for obvious damage-broken or worn out chain links, bent/broken clamp feet, warped clamp back, bent/broken chain hooks, damaged chain tighteners, grease/rust/excessive dirt.
2 Repair/replace any damaged part
3 Set up 2-6ft lengths of 4 inch pipe to be welded into one 12 foot length.
4 Position selected clamp on top of and evenly spaced over, two sections of pipe so chains drop down the back side of the clamp as you face pipes
5 Reach under the pipe while holding clamp in place and grasp the chain
6 Pull the chain around the pipe and up to the the locking notch on the clamp
7 Secure the chain on the clamp
8 Rotate the clamp around the pipe to the bottom of the pipe
9 Turn the adjustable screw handle to tighten the chain. Tighten only until the chain is snug. Adjustments may be needed later.
10 Position the second (unclamped) section of pipe so it is aligned with the first section of pipe and is ready to be welded.
11 Wrap the chain around the second section of pipe.
12 Attach the chain to the clamp
13 Tighten the second chain onto the second section of pipe
14 Adjust both chains until they are tight
15 Check the pipe sections again to see that they are still aligned with each other and ready for welding
16 After welding has been completed, loosen the chains and remove the clamp
17 Clean clamp if necessary, inspect it for damage. If damaged replace it
18 Store clamp

Question 23

Flange welding clamps

Answer 23

Chain type clamps that are specifically designed to hold a pipe flange onto the end of a pipe in position for welding. It is a straight section of steel about 12 inches long with a length of chain on one end and a screw clamp on the other. the clamp can be mounted on top or bottom of the pipe and flange being welded.