Block 8 (Variations In Coastal Processes, Coastal Landforms + Landscapes Over Different Time Scales) Flashcards
What are the three time scales we look at in relation to coasts?
- Seconds
- Seasons
- Millennia
What are the coastal changes over seconds?
- High energy storm events
- Rapid mass movement
What causes high energy storm events?
Increased wave energy
What processes are increased during high energy storm events?
- Erosion (more destructive waves)
- Transportation (more energy to carry larger/more material)
How do high energy storm events cause coastal change?
- Change in beach profile (sediment removal, storm beach formed)
- Destruction or breaching of sand dunes (increased erosion)
- Coastal flooding (particularly if there is a storm surge)
What conditions facilitate a storm surge to form?
- Storm with strong onshore winds
- High (spring) tide
- Low pressure (allows waves to rise)
When pressure decreases by 1mb, how much does wave height increase by?
1cm
What causes mass movement?
Material become unstable, and is moved downslope under influence of gravity
Give an example of change over seconds due to high energy storm events
North Sea Storm Surge of 1953
Give an example of change over seconds due to rapid mass movements
Hive Beach, Dorset - 2012
- 50 m high cliffs made of soft sandstone
- Heavy rain made cliff saturated, heavy - unstable
- Landslide
- 400 tonnes rock fell
- 1 fatality
What changes to coast do rapid mass movements cause?
- Change in cliff face profiles
- Retreating cliff line
- Potential damage to cliff top development
- Change in beach profile (may have sediment on)
What are the changes over seasons we look at?
Seasonal changes to beach profile
What causes the seasonal change to beach profile?
Weather differences + how this influences wave type
What is typical summer weather + the waves this produces?
Anticyclonic weather
- Dry, with few storms
- Calm, with low wind speeds
- Causes low energy waves that are predominantly constructive (spilling)
What is typical winter weather + the waves this produces?
Depressions
- Wet, with more storms
- High wind speeds
- Causes high energy waves that are predominantly destructive (plunging)
What is the typical beach profile in summer?
Sandy, wide, dissipative beach
- Sandy: Less energy, so only fine sand can be moved ashore
- Wide
- Dissipative: Shallow gradient, formed by constructive waves (spilling)
What is the typical beach profile in the Winter?
Rocky, narrow, reflective beach
- Rocky: more energy, so large material can be moved ashore
- Narrow
- Reflective: steep gradient, formed by destructive waves (plunging)
Give an example of an area where beaches typically undergo seasonal change
California, USA
Sandy summer, rocky winter
Give an example of a freak seasonal change
Dooagh, Ireland
- Rocky for 34 years
- Freak tidal event in 2017
- Became sandy for 2 months
What are the changes over millennia?
- Eustatic sea level change
- Isostatic sea level change
What is the ‘absolute’ sea level?
Sea level based on volume of water, regardless of land position
What is eustatic change?
Global changes to the absolute sea level
What are the two main causes of eustatic change?
- Glacio-eustatic change
- Thermal expansion