Block 4 (Factors Affecting Coastal Processes + Landforms) Flashcards
What affects wave energy?
- Fetch (longer=more energy)
- Duration (longer=more energy)
- Wind Velocity (longer=more energy)
What is fetch?
Maximum length of open water over which wind can blow to produce wave
What is the longest UK fetch?
SW across Atlantic from Gulf of Mexico
- 4000 km
What is the shortest UK fetch?
NE across English Channel from France
- 34km
What is duration?
Length of time wind blows over sea to produce wave
What waves are formed by low energy?
Constructive, spilling
What waves are formed by high energy?
Destructive, plunging
What are the 3 factors that impact where wave energy is focused?
- Wave orientation
- Wave refraction
- Wave reflection
What is wave orientation?
Direction waves come in to coastline
- Most often from prevailing wind
- Can be changed by different weather systems, e.g. storms
Outline the process of wave refraction
- Sea shallower near headlands, deeper in bays
- Waves approaching headland have increased friction with bed, slow down
- Waves approaching bay not influenced by friction, continue moving at high velocity
- So, direction of wave energy - ‘orthogonals’ - appear to bend
- Orthogonals converge on headlands (most erosion)
- Orthogonals diverge on bays (most deposition)
What is wave reflection also known as?
Clapotis effect
Where can wave reflection occur?
When wave hits a vertical surface
- Rocky coastlines with deep offshore platform
- Steep beaches
- Cliff face
- Sea wall
Outline the process of wave reflection
- Platform causes waves to reflect back out to sea
- Waves don’t break at shoreline
- Cliffs protected from erosion + rate of recession decreases
What is a standing wave?
The interaction between reflected + incoming waves
What is lithology?
The make-up of rocks
- Rock hardness
- Chemical composition (minerals + solubility)
- Permeability
What is rock hardness?
How hard/soft the rock is
What rock is usually harder/more resistant?
Igneous + metamorphic (heated + compressed in formation)
What rock is usually softer/less resistant?
Sedimentary (layers that crumble)
Where was the fastest recorded coastal erosion?
Sumatra
- 30m volcanic ash eroded /yr after 1883 Krakatoa eruption
Which areas erode fast/slow due to rock hardness in GB?
NW erodes slow - granite (igneous) - resistant headlands
SE erodes fast - glacial boulder clay + sandstone (sedimentary) - bays
What is chemical composition?
Minerals rocks are composed of + how chemically reactive/soluble they are