4. Madeira

Question 1

Explain the history of Madeira

Answer 1

• 18th century and before
  
  • Island 600 km off Morocco, Portuguese colony.
  • British merchants sent wine from Madeira to the colonies in N America and West Indies
  • Journey was hot, wine in the balast of ship seemed to improve, and the practice of fortifying stabilised the wine over the long journeys.
• 19 - 20th century neg impacts
  
  • Phylloxera, Powdery Mildew destroyed vines
  • Prohibition in USA,
  • Two world wars, Russian Revolution and Spanish Flu
• Towards end of the 20th century sales stabilised far below peak of 18th century
• 1986 - Portugal enters EU,
  
  • new regulation introduced
  • EU subsidies led to improvements in quality - continues today
• IVBAM Instituto do Vinhos de Bordado e do Artesanato da Madeira regulates Madeira production

Question 2

Describe the Madeira growing region

Answer 2

• Climate - warm summers (ave 20 - 22 degC), mild winters (ave 16 - 17 degC
  
  • lack of winter dormancy - prob in warmer sites
• Mountainous - range of microclimtes
  
  • cooler temps at alt
  • mountains cause moist air in humid winds frm nw to condense into rainclouds over north and centre of island. - much cooler/wetter than south. (more than 3000mm pa)
• Majority of rain in autumn and winter
• Vineyards total 450ha at up to 800m
  
  • mostly near the coast
• Soils are volcanic, high nutrients
• Plentiful rain, fertile conditions = vigorous vines

Question 3

How are Madeira varietals categorised

Answer 3

Traditionally - noble, good, authorised

New terms: recommended and authorised

Recommended varieties include Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvasia, Terrantez and Tinta Negra

Authorised are varieties planted after Phylloxera that did not do as well.

Question 4

Describe the varieties of grapes grown for Madeira wine

Answer 4

Spectrum S—-V—-B—-M

Sercial

• high acidity
• driest styles
• late ripening (latest tb picked - esp in cool sites - achieves barely the min alc level)
• resistant to powdery mildew, susceptible to botrytis bunch rot
• can experience poor fruit set
• plantings are small

Verdehlo

• 2nd most planted vinifera variety
• high acid - lower than servial
• susceptible to bunch rot, coulure, downy and powdery mildew

Boal (umbrella for many varieties)

• specifically Malvasia Fina) used for white Port
• grows best on warm, low alt sites in the south
• susceptible to drought - needs adequate irrigation
• used for semi-sweet still wine

Malvasia - also an “umbrella term”

• Malvasia Candida - historically most nb, still prized for its quality
  
  • susc. to powdery mildew, reduces yields - only small plantings
• Malvasia de Sao Jorge - most commonly planted, high yields but susc. to botrytis grey rot

Terrantez

• produced for acid
• limited plantings
• susc to powdery mildew, botrytis grey rot, thus picked soon after it reaches 9% abv pot alc

Tinta Negra

• (85% of plantings)
• the only black grape
• most planted, high yielding and easy to grow
• since 2015 the variety may appear on the label
• produces wines at all sweetness levels
• tends to be made into wines at the cheaper end

Question 5

Describe Vineyard Management in Madeira

Answer 5

The island is mountainous - planting is on terraces

Trellising

• Pergola system called “latadas”
  
  • allows air above & beneath the vine
  • reduces fungal disease (humid climate)
  • permits crops underneath (effective use of smallholdings)
• Also, cordon-trained, vsp trellised vines “espaldeira”

Disease/Hazard:

• warm and humid climate = fungal disease pressure high
  
  • downy mildew, botrytis grey rot, Phomopsis
• managed by canopy thinning, shoot positioning, fungicide sprays

Irrigation

• widely practised - rainwater from the centre to the vineyard areas
• “levadas” = small irrigation channels - mostly needed south of the island

Harvest

• date is decided by IVBAM, in cons with growers and producers
• mostly by hand (mountainous top)
• min pot alc abv must be 9%, normally picked at no more than 11% pot abv

Prices for grapes - trad varieties (SVBM) attract higher prices than Tinta Negra

Max yield - varies per vintage conditions

• yields of 150 hl/has not unusual and easy to reach
  
  • fertile soil & water for irrigation

Question 6

Describe Winemaking to Finishing of Madeira

Answer 6

On arrival

• grapes checked, weight, health, potential alc abv (supervised by IVBAM)
• destemmed and crushed

Skin contact (per producer …)

• Tinta negra often fermented on skins
  
  • esp SW and MSW styles
• Some producers, also skin contact for whites

Fermentation

• stainless steel, ambient yeast
• sweeter wines - 2 days ferm then fortify
• drier wines - up to a week , then fortify

Fortification

• 96% abv - neutral spirit purchased anywhere, IVBAM checks quality
• to 17 - 18% abv

Finishing

• fined with Bentonite, gelatine, albumin
• Filtered with diatomaceious earth to clarify
• Tasted & classified - determines maturation pathway

Question 7

Describe the Maturation and Ageing, Blending process of Madeira

Answer 7

Maturation

• Maturation takes place in hot and oxidative conditions.
• Estufagem
  
  • lesser quality wines, e.g. 3 - 5 yr old fm Tinta Negra
  • Heat wine in temp controlled ss tank 45 - 55 degC - 3 mths
  • IVBAM seal at start and reopen at end of period
  • Ullage in tank allows oxidation
  • after 3 mths, wine cooled and rests for further 6 - 12 mths
  • wine may not be sold until 31 Oct of 2nd year after harvest
  • these wines described as baked or stewed (burnt sugar)
  • not the same compelxity as CANTEIRO process
  • if too dark - carbon filter to strip colour (unfort strips flavour - but on the positive side will also remove neg off flavours)
• Canteiro
  
  • longer and more resource intensive - higher q wines
  • matured in oak in warm environment (Loft/warehouse heated by the sun)
  • temps from 25 - 40 degC
  • caskes are 400 - 700 l in size
  • small headspace of air for oxidation
  • producer may have different warehouses at different temps
  • within a wareouse different locations at different temps (increasing cooler as you move cask from under the roof till the ground floor
  • Young wines are stored in warmest conditions - warmest spaces
  • then they move to cooler areas fro extended ageing
  • humidity is high but evaporation of water still causes slight inc in alcohol (19 - 20% abv)
  • other components also concentrate (sugar, acid, aroma)
  • volatile acidity rises
• Madeira is rarely racked but due to loss of water barrels need reg. topping up
• Wines cannot be sold until 3 years after first January following the harvest
• IVBAM seal and unseal the vessels, before and after the maturation period

Further Ageing

• Large wooden vessles / ss vats / demijohns to limit further evaporation
• Beyond the min ageing time producers can apply to IVBAM for EU subsidy to offset cost of ageing if they agree to 5 years (subs per vol in hl)
  
  • IVBAM seals / unseals at 5 yrs
    
    • under supervision producer can check and adjust during the 5 yrs
  • at end of period can apply for another 5yr subsidy.

Impact of Maturation

• Colour - turns brown
• Aromas - primary dev to tertiary (dried fruit)
• Warm ageing - speeds oxygenation , causes caramelisation of the sugar
• Range of flavours depends on style, age, qualtiy
  
  • dried fruit - apricots, raisins, cramel, chocolate, nuts, smoke)

Blending

• Most Madeira non-vintage
• blending from different vintages, barrels from diff parts of warehouse, locations.. for consistency, style, complexity = std practice
• eg. wines in the youngest category (Estufa aged) may include small qty of wine from Cateiro to add flavour/complexity.

Adjustments

• • fining and filtering before bottling
• Adjustments include:
  
  • caramel used to age colour / carbon fining to strip colour
  • RCGM to add sweetness /Blend with dry wine - decrease sweetness.

Question 8

Describe the varietal styles of Madeira

Answer 8

Note ALL the wines are “Sweet” but may be labelled in a conventional manner to indicate the level of sweetness

• Extra dry, dry, med dry, med sweet (or med rich) , and sweet (or rich)
• There are no rules for this, and the labelling may overlap between producers

Sercial

• extra dry / dry
• lightest colour and body (pale amber at 10 yrs)
• aromas: citrus peel and nuts

Verdelho

• medium dry - more RS and more body/rounder texture than Sercial
• slight sweetness on palate gives impression of candied fruit
• slightly darker than Sercial

Boal

• med sweet
• fuller and sweeter than Verdelho
• darker colour
• aromas : caramel chocolate, candied nuts

Malvasia (also Malmsey)

• sweetest style balanced with refreshing high acidity
• aromas: raisins, caramel
• full body and often brown colour

Terrantez

• med dry or med sweet
• delicate, even when high sugar
• aromas: citrus peel, caramel, floral

Tinta Negra

• since 2015 cb varietally labelled
• any level of sweetness

Question 9

Describe the styles of Madeira, including Age Indicated

Answer 9

Madeira + indic of age

• Non-vintage
  
  • may be labelled 5.10.15. 20,30,40,50 and “more than 50 yrs”
• Age in indication of style not min or ave age
  
  • must be verified by IVBAM together with account of all wines used in lend
• may be labelled - style and variety
• Quality and price - rise with inc age

5 yr old

• most likely Tinta negra and estufagem sys maturation
• g/vg; mid price

10 yr old or older

• often made from a white variety
• some use of the Tinta Negra since the variety can appear on the label
• will be from parcels aged in the canteiro system
  
  • inc time = inc complexity, higher acidity due to evaporation
  • at 20 yrs + the wine will be OS and sell for super prem prices

Standard Blends

• not aged on label or in practice
• sold 2 - 3 yrs after harvest
• IVBAM categorises as “corrente”
• labelled with the producer brand e.g. Blandy’s “Duke of Clarence” or “H&H Full Rich Madeira”

Rainwater

• relatively light (alc 18% abv, body, concentration of flavours)
• med-dry
• may have max 10 yrs age indication

Frasqueira /Garrafeiro

• Flagship of a range
• means Madeira is wood aged, min 20 yrs
• must be from prescribed varieties (now incl Tinta Negra)
• variety mus tbe on the label
• year of harvest, year of bottling on the label
• Q must be assessed by IVBAM tasting panel
• style depends on varieties but all will have
  
  • notable contentration, complexity, tertiary flavours
  • sweetness balanced to high acidity
• OS and sell for SPrem price

Colheita

• Madeira - 5 yrs aged in wood
• (PORT - 7 yrs aged in wood)
• Colheita = vintage (grapes from a single year)
• may be a blend of varieties - var not reqd on lable
• yr harvested + yr bottled mb on label
• Q assessed by IVBAM panel
• Style is recent and good quality, which make it popular
• age reqmt is lower than Frasqueira so all producers make it.

Criteria for ageing

• high acid, high sugar, oxidised (it will not spoil), fortified (it will remain stable)
• once in bottle it does not develop or improve further.

Question 10

Comment on sales and markets for Madeira

Answer 10

Madeira’s VY land is fragmented

• Ha planted for Madeira 450. 1000+ growers, ea 0.3ha
• Winemaking is consolidated: 8 large producers
  
  • Justinos
  • Madeira Wine Co (rent/own VY)
  • Henriques & Henriques (rent/own VY)
  • HM Borges; Blandy’s (Symington Fam); Pereira d’Oliveira; Vinhos Barbeito; J Fario & Filhos
• 2 prod* rent/own VY but even they, like the others need to buy grapes to make nec vol of prod
  
  • the purchase is faciltiated by agents

Sales

• Sales show gradual increase of Colheita and Frasqueira
• Remainder is stable over the last few decades

Sales in Mil Litres:

• 2019 3.2 Ml : in order of volumes:
  
  • 1.9 Ml Tinta Negra (corrente Madeira (young))
  • next 5 and then 10 yr old
    
    • the most common age indic categories
    • and the largest cat for wines labelled varietally (Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvasia)
  • Colheita and Frasquiero
  • Age ind 20-50yr olds
• 1/5th of Madeira sales is in Madeira for cooking (cheaper maturation, released after a few months), or Schnapps

Markets

• France (inexp var)
• Madeira
• Germany (inexp var)
• Japan

Question 11

What is the IVBAM and what does it do

Answer 11

The IVBAM is Instituto do Vinho de Bordado e do Artesanata da Madeira

• co-ordinates / supports wine industry
• monitors Madeira stocks and QC
• is present at grape reception, begin / end of maturation process to seal and unseal vessels
• tasting panel check wine profile and authorises the label age indication and or the label vintage year
• technicians support growers
• It sets regulations for production and labelling