3. Port Flashcards
1
Q
Brief histroy of Port per century
A
17th century (Eng-FR>>PO>> Shippers (croft, taylor))
- Trade wars England-France result in England importing wine from Portugal. The practice of fortifying the wine to ensure it arrived in England in good condition led to popularity of Port in the UK.
- Port shippers established some still exist today: Kopke, Warre, Croft, Taylors
- Traditionally shippers only bought, stored and shipped wine from Vila Nova de Gaia, today they also produce and are dominant players owning vineyards, wineries, bottling facilities
18th Century (Tax+Pop>Dem up>Qual down>Dem down>cont)
- As Port popularity grew and was supported by a tax benefit, quality dropped and in turn so did demand.
- To address this vineyards were demarcated and production regulations introduced. (fixed prices, and control of supply of aguardente)
19th Century (wars, viti catast, owners sell, shipper Quintas)
- Two wars - Peninsula and Portuguese civil war,
- Vineyard catastrophes of powdery mildew followed by Phylloxera
- Smaller vineyard owners struggle and sell out to more powerful Shippers
- Era of shippers owning vineyards (Quintas) and becoming producers also.
20th Century (IVP+CDD> Agu cont> Beneficio )
- IVP Instituto do Vinho do Porto made responsible for admin and supervision of Port Industry
- Second body Casa do Douro supervised growers in the “Port” demarcation.
- VY parcels were rated A - I based on suitability to produce Port - cat A best location/altitude/aspect/soils/variety ~ best potential crop was allowed to produce the most Port, and the quantity reduces with the next letter.
- All managed by the “Beneficio” still today.
- At the same time the two auth controlled sale of aguardente.
20 - 21st Century (EU, WB Inv 10+5, Imp Pat, Extr, ~locl Var)
- At the turn of the century quality improved again due to:
- World Bank subsidised planting / re-planting on A/B cat vineyards up to 10ha, with 5 varieties.
- Portugal entered EU, and producers were permitted to buy own aguardente on the open market.
- 2003 a new combined body IVDP Instituto dos Vinhos do Porto e do Douro was created to supervise Port and Douro wine producers.
-
Recently:
- improved version of Patamares
- continued focus on the “5” but other local varieties are also noted
- alternative solutions for foot-treading used on wines of all Q levels.
2
Q
Port growing environment, location/climate
A
Three sub-regions start at coast and work inward
- Mild climate, moderated by ocean,
- constant humidity aids maturation (prevents too high evaporation
Baixa Corgo
- maritime - wet - rot/fungus
- 900mm rain, cooler climate
- prod fruit for inexp Ruby and Tawny Port
Cima Corgo
- 700mm rain, warmer, drier
- some VY at altitude giving hi diurnal range good for hi acid and aromas (flatter areas - fruit is jammy)
- most well known producers in this area
- prod age indicated Tawny Port, Vintage Port
Douro Superior furtherest from coast
- 450mm rain, hottest, driest - drought frequently an issue
- sparsely planted, contains some flatter land and allows mechanisation (plantings increasing)
River Douro
- runs through each region, creating micro climates
- VY sites differ in aspect and altitude even in one VY there can be differences in ave temp and sunlight exposure
3
Q
Soils for vine growing in Douro valley
A
- Stony, shallow, free draining, poor in nutrients - limits vigour
- Bedrock = schist
- Schist is key to the vines being able to survive.
- Tectonic activity results in the schist splitting vertically, allows vine to penetrate to find water.
- The growing area boundary is common with the schist soil boundary - remaining inpenetrable granite not suitable for growing.
- Irrigation is not allowed except in circumstances due to drought where vines may experience hydric stress.
4
Q
Describe vineyard lavouts in the Douro Valley
A
Steep slopes many with gradients of 30deg
Three types of layouts
Socalcos
- traditional, narrow terraces, supported by walls of dry rock (Unesco)
- planting density 6000 v/ha
- Not suitable for mech - only vines planted at lower density - tractor can access
Patamares
- terracess supported by steep earth ramp
- Small tractors can access on diagonal tracks -ramps take space
- cheaper to implement and maintain than socalcos
- erosion, weeds problematic
- density is low (3000 - 3500 v/ha)
- Large and Wide patamares -
- support two rows, more efficient use of land, but uneven ripeness as exterior row gets more sun
- Narrow patamares- only one row, more modern,
- carved by newer, smaller bulldozers and precise construction
- tilted slightly toward slope and from 1 side of terrace to the other - improves water absorption and drainage, reduce erosion.
- uneven ripeness less of an issue
Vinha ao Alto - currently ltd use
- vertical rows up the slopes
- water run off & erosion a problem
- least expensive - allows high density planting (5000 v/ha) and mechanisation IF it is not too steep.
- Above 40deg slopes no mechanisation poss - so patamares will be used.
5
Q
Vineyard Management practices in Douro Valley
A
Trellising
- Vines are cordon trained, spur pruned; or head trained & cane pruned
- VSP trellising promotes even sun exp and ripening - allows mech where poss.
- Summer pruning (leaf removal) ensures sun exp esp for late ripening varieties.
Rootstock - tolerant of drought
- 110R 1103P hybrids Vitis rupestris and Vitis berlandieri
- When VY is replanted key focus:
- vine density
- layouts that allow mechanistion
- selecting best planting material for the area (could mean diff var on same terrace)
Yield: 55hl/ha - water, hazards, disease mean ave yield more likely 30hl/ha
Hazards
- late spring frost (highest alt)
- sometimes wet weather from west in summer (flowering/frutset disrupted) - esp in Baixa Corgo
- downy mildew/botrytis bunch rot - managed by can mgt and fungicide spray
Fertilisers
- used as necessary - imp nutrient status of soil
Herbicides
- control weeds that compete with vines for water and nutrients on the slopes of patamares
Cover crops esp on slopes of Vinha ao Alto slopes
- erosion prev, & impr soil structure & nutrition
- reduce presence of weeds.
6
Q
Harvesting in Douro Region
A
- Largely by hand due to topography
- increasingly diff to find labour
- harvest tends to start in Douro Superior (more inland) and end in Baixa Corgo
- Harvest takes several weeks due to:
- Various microclimates in the valley,
- different plantings,
- prevalence of hand harvesting
7
Q
What are the preferred black varieties for Port wine?
A
Touriga Franca
- late ripening - suits warm, sf sites low alt.
- tight bunch, thick skin (resists fungal dis), vigorous
- blend for: tannin, colour, acidity, juicy red fruit, black fruit & floral aromas
Touriga Nacional
- mid ripening
- thick skin, excessive veg, vigour - needs summer pruning
- blend for : deep colour, high tannin, retains acidity, concentrated black fruit & floral, long ageing potential - used in premium and long-matured wines
- suscept. to coulure (lowers yields, causes vine imbalance)
Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo / Arogarez)
- early ripening
- high yields must be ltd otherwise lacks concentration
- blend for: body, deep colour
- best in cool sites otherwise suffers water stress
Tinta Cão
- late ripening
- small, thick skin grapes, low yield, tolerates heat
- blend for : concentrated wines, high acidity - ages well
Tinta Barroca
- early ripening best on cool sites, alt and NF (Baixo Corgo/Cima Corgo)
- blend for: earthy char, lacks acid unless fm cool site, colour fades, high yields
- suffers heat damage and stress unless grown in cool site
Tinta Amarela (Trincadeira)
- tight bunches - susceptible to fungal disease
- blend for : full bodied wine, concent. black fruit, spicy notes, approachable young, capable of ageing.
Sousao
- thick skin, deep colour
- blend for: high levels of acidity, deep colour
8
Q
What are the preferred white grapes for Port?
A
Malvasia Fina
- produces neutral wines
- med acidity
- full body, slight honey character
Moscatel
- aromatic variety,
- used for unaged styles.
9
Q
Describe extraction techniques for Port
A
Fermentation
- Fermentation is stopped when the residual sugar level reaches between 80 - 120g/l.
- This takes about 2 days.
- This means that the maceration/extraction technique needs to be very efficient to achieve maximum extraction in this fairly short time, as the Port relies on phenolic compounds, and deep colouring to mature successfully.
Methods used for extraction
Foot treading
- traditional, no damage to seeds,
- still used for some premium styles
- “legares” are granite, 80cm deep
- large surface area ensuresnmax surface area of skin and must contact.
Modern “legares”
- robotic, silicon feet on ss gantry - initial investment is high
- the feet press down on the lagar floor, punch down the cap
- reduces reliance on manual workforce
- equivalent quality compared to traditional lagares.
Pump Over
- Same as for non-fortified wine.
- can produce Port of a deep colour, but not as effective as lagares
SS Pistons
- Open ss vats, pistons punch down on programmed schedule
- can be used together with pump over
- almost as effective as lagares
Autovinifier
- sealed concrete / ss tank does not require electricity
- Rising pressure of co2 produced by fermentation pushes the must up through the pipes in the holding tank
- At a certain level of pressure a valve is released and the wine in the holding tank sprays down over the cap.
- Delivers very little extraction - wines are lighter in body and colour
- suits basic Tawny, Ruby Port and White Port.
10
Q
Describe production process of Port
A
Fermentation
- De-Stemm? Grapes may or may not be de-stemmed
- Ripe stems - reduce compacted pomace aids draining after ferm stopped & free run wine drained.
- Extraction via the listed methods
-
Most fermentation in SS, temp cont, easy to clean
- can cool tank to slow ferm & increase extraction
- Ferm temps red 28 - 32 degC
- white 17 - 22 degC
- Many prod use ambient yeast - sufficient to start the ferment. Completion not a concern for Port
- Fermentation stopped at 5 - 7% abv depending on RS desired (normally 80 - 120g / l)
- Wine is drained : fast & efficient essential – risk of sugar loss if ferm continues
- remaining grape skins will be pressed
- press wine used for blending, additional colour and tannin to support ageing.
-
Aguardente is added to the free run
- Fortification is to 19 - 22% abv
- Spirit must be 77% abv from grape products (law)
- The amount is significant and its own flav/char may be blended into the wine. 1 litr spirit: 4 Ltr must
- Some producers choose aguardente with fruity esters to add character / otherts neutral spirit
- High Q spirit is added to premium wines, less expensive spirit to inexp wines
- Malo C does not occur - lactic acid bacteria cannot tolerate the high alcohol after fortification
-
Adjustment – Acidification common
- Grapes are picked when ripe - judged by tann + flavour. If acid lo/PH too hi >acidification common
-
Clarification:
- wines remain in Douro over the winter. They clarify naturally during this time and then are racked off the gross lees.
- A rotary vacuum filter extracts remaining wine off the lees
In the spring wines are shipped to lodges in the coastal town Vila Nova da Gaia.
11
Q
Port Maturation - Describe
Note further maturation details under each of the “Styles”.
A
The style, quality, price of Port is determined by Q of base wine and maturation process
- min ageing per style is legally defined
- many Ports must be tested by IVDP before the wine my be specified on the label
Decisions start in the growing season
- weather; canopy management; harvesting
Parcels are treated differently depending on style to which they are suited
- no bitter tannins & less extraction on least ripe grapes: less concentrated styles : Tawny Port
- deep extraction : colour, tanning, flavour on best quality grapes for concentrated styles suitable for ageing (Vintage Port)
Where
- Traditionally all port was matured at Vila Nova de Gaia today, insulated, humidity controlled lodges closer to the vineyards are being introduced. (tourists in VNdG - congestion)
- VNdG is suitable because Atlantic cools the temperatures and keeps humidity high suitable for ageing
How
Vessels:
- Most Port is matured in oak even for a short time
- smaller the barrel the higher the rate of oxidation
- gentle oxidation takes place in 600l “pipes”
- balseiros - 100 000l barrels may also be used to store the Port and keep it fresh
- no new oak aromas are desired in Port
Racking
- off the lees takes place during maturation to prevent off flavours
- this also increases oxidation
Ullage -leaving space at top of barrel also increases oxidation
12
Q
Describe Ruby Port
A
- m body, m tannin, red and black fruit
- protective winemaking, fermentation in ss/concrete
- acc - good Q; lower price points
- often simple, fruity, slightly harsh alcohol.
- base wine is early drinking quality not suitable for ageing (low tannin)
- cheaper aguardante - lower price point
- normally blends of more than 1 year
- Limited ageing (max 3 yrs) ss/concrete/large oak
13
Q
Describe Tawny Port
A
- Light extraction, appears light brown, paler like old wine (garnet - brown)
- Fermenting juice must be drained early, the concentrated remaining wine adds colour/flavour to Ruby Port.
- Ageing 2 - 3 years (max allowed is 3) - same as Ruby Port
- med body, low to med tannin
- toffee, dried fruit, nut, caramel, stewed fruit, sultana
14
Q
Describe Tawny and Ruby Reserve Port?
A
-
Ruby:
- Style: R&B fruit, m tann, m body. Fruity but alc mb harsh (less exp aguardente)
- Base wine suit for early drinking (insuff extraction to support ageing)
- Protective wm technique, age in bulk (SS/concrete/old,large wood) max 3yrs
- Wine usually a blend (younger/older) to achieve cons style
- A/G Inexp price point
-
Tawny:
- Light extraction for brownish colour, fermenting must drained early - remaining conc wine for adding col/flav to Ruby Port
- Aged no longer than Ruby ; wm similar, ageing similar
- Style; m int dried fruit, nuts, caramel; lo tann, m /m+ body
- A/G Inexp/ lower price point
Reserve Rubies and Tawnies are made from a higher quality wine than the basic level.
- Res Tawny - min ageing 6 years
- Res Ruby - no min ageing but must be tasted+appr by IVDP
- it will be more concentrated and higher Q than the Ruby
15
Q
What is Tawny with Indication of Age?
A
- May be labelled as either 10, 20. 30. or 40 years old
-
Matured long period in pipes (620-640l) - controlled exp to O2
- tannins soften, alcohol integrates,
- primary flavours develop into tertiary (dried fruit)
- oxidative flavours develop - caramel, nuts
- NO OAK
-
Clarification and Stabilisation
- Occur naturally as the wine ages, no filtration before bottling
- Blends will be more than 1 vintage, incl younger and older wine than the age on label
- IVDP tests & deems wine to have the char of the specified age
- During ageing wine evaporates, barrels are topped up, making this an expensive style compared to the others.
- Sales of this style have increased, and stocks are depleting, and prices are increasing
- Lately a new sub-category of this wine “Very Old Tawny Port” (no age)
- Taylors Scion (more than 150 yrs)
- Grahams Ne Oubile (dates from 1882)
- these wines are rare, given the long maturation and demand sprem prices.
