2. Sherry Flashcards
1
Q
Comment on sherry Grape Growing /Location/Climate
A
- Jerez: located in southern Spain, low lat (36 deg) and low altitude 0 -90m
- hot Meditteranean
- hot dry summer; mild, rainy winter
- Damp cool wind from Atlantic“Poniente” : cool inf in summer
- Hot dry wind from Africa“Levante” - makes env arid, grapes transpire quicker, sugars concentrate
- too much sugar - diff to ferment to dry also problematic for flor development & bio ageing
- high no. of cloud-free days + high no. of sunshine hrs means good ripening, but risk of sunburn
2
Q
Where may Sherry grapes be grown and describe the typical soil
A
Palomino grape
All grapes for Sherry must be grown in the
“Zona de Producion, area known as Marco de Jerez”,
(includes 8 municipalities e.g. Chiclana, Jerez, Sanlucar Barrameda) and may be used for
- DO Jerez-Xerez Sherry
- DO Manzanilla-Sanlucar de Barrameida
- One exception - Pedro Ximenez cb grown in Montilla, but matured in Zona de Crianza, and still labelled “DO Jerez-Xeres Sherry”
ZdP split
- Jerez Superior - better sites, all albariza soil ~ 90% of plantings
- Jerez Zona - clay, sandy (barros, arenos)
- VY are split into “Pagos” each giving grapes different char, due to different aspect/location and soils
Albariza Soil
-
Albariza - limestone, silica and clay.
- retains winter rainfall and then gradually releases it
- crusts over in hot weather to reduce evaporation from soil
- reflects light back from the light soil aiding ripening
- troughs are built (aserpia) to channel the water between the vines capturing more at the vine for absorption into the soil.
- water retention allows higher density planting (70hl/ha)
- supports high yields (flav concentration not reqd for Sherry which gets flav from maturation)
- When you see soil described like this - immediate thoughts of rootstock
- tolerates lime.
- controls the vigorous growth to get fruit not just vegetation
- tolerates drought / water scarcity.
- 41B; 333EM; 13-4EVEX from local researchers, very succesfull
3
Q
Describe the grape varieties grown in Jerez, how they are used in Sherry, and where they must be grown to qualify for the PDO designation on the label
A
Palomino (Listán)
- in the Zona de Produccion “Marco de Jerez”.
- “DO Jerez Xeres Sherry”
- in Sanlucar de Barrameda
- “DO Manzanilla-Sanlucar de Barrameda”
- Used in all styles (sweet and dry) of Sherry
- mid - late ripening,
- well suited to dry sunny weather produces large yields
- loses acidity quickly when it becomes ripe
- neutral, min fruit flavour to Sherry wines
- 99% of production by vol.
Pedro Ximínez - PX
- Grown in Montilla, shipped to ZdeP as fresh/raisined grapes or more commonly young wine
- Matured in the Zone de Crianza
- “DO Jeres Xeres Sherry”
- PX is used as a sweetening agent for sweet styles
- small, thin skinned grape
- high levels of sugar
- traditionally dried in the sun to concentrate the sugar
- neutral, flavours from drying/maturation process
- 1% of production by vol.
Moscatel (Muscat of Alexandria) (Moscatel de Chipiona)
- Grows in coastal town Chipiona,
- sandy “arenas” soils
- late ripening,
- well adapted to heat /drought
- aromatic grape (grape/blossom)
- produces FW of same name.
- <1% of volume produced
4
Q
Sherry vineyard practices - describe
A
- Undergoing transformation toward mechanisation (soil mgmt, pruning, harvesting)
- Principle training was replacement cane pruning (Guyot),
- inceasingly cordon trained (single or double) and spur pruned - best for mechanisation
- VSP trellising to
- keep canopy open (mildew in spring) & arranged for mech.
- shading to prevent sunburn
- Within row tight, between wide for tractors
- Yield 80hl/ha allowed - norm 60 - 70 hl/ha farmed
- Some producers limit yield for inc quality fruit
- Gentle slopes.. troughs (aserpia) dug mech. to channel rain to base of vines.
- Rootstock
- 333EM, 41B, 13-5 EVEX (local, successful)
- tolerate limestone (prevent chlorosis) ; drought ;
- prod good yield
- Disease/Hazard
- warm/dry climate ~ rel. few problems
- mildew in spring with humidity after rain - systematic spraying of fungicides
- European Grapevine Moth - managed with pheromone traps
5
Q
Sherry harvest - comment
A
- 60% is mechanised
- Night or early hours of morning harvest
- reduces oxidation and spoilage before reception
- 1st week August, start inland and work outwards
- 2nd week September cool coastal areas
- Early as possible - avoid rain as any rot undesirable esp for bio aged wine
- Grapes picked with 12% abv potential, total acid 5g/l and PH of 3.3 - 3.5
- if acid is lower (extended ripening) then acidification is required.
- PX & Moscatel harvested slightly later as concentrated sugar is desired.
6
Q
Winemaking process for Sherry - Describe
A
-
Press: Grapes pressed on arrival, no skin contact
- (phenolic compounds restrict flor yeast growth)
- Free Run > Bio ageing (Fino, Manzanilla) > lightest press “primera yema” 60 - 75% of juice yield
-
Press Wine > Oloroso ,later pressings, more pressure (phenolics)
- or from free run, depending on production volumes required
- Yield: max 70l/100kg
-
Clarify : must clarified before ferm >
- cold settling/centrifugation/flotation
- albariza soil is dusty, clarification removes
-
Ferment >> musts fm diff vineyards fermented separately (blended later - see below)
- cultured yeast, reliable ferment to dry, at 22-26 degC
- no fruit flavours expected
- ferm in ss, (some use old barrels- fuller body)
- 1st ferm PHASE = quick/vigorous maj of sugar fermented in 7 days.
- 2nd ferm PHASE = slow, couple of weeks, remaining sugar fermented
- malo C prevented (chilling) - no butter flavours des. and acid already low
- no use of SO2 - it will prevent flor yeast developing
- Blend > different parcels of wine blended before fortification and maturation
-
first classification / analysis of each batch to decide
- bio ageing - fortify to 15 - 15.5% abv, (optimal for flor yeast)
- oxidative ageing - fortify to 17% abv, (yeast can’t survive)
- Fortification > spirit is 95% abv grape spirit, neutral
- After fortification, wine to sobretablas (may be tank or barrel), for storage before joining solera system.
-
2nd classification (Only bio ageing wines)
- if flor is healthy and wine remained fresh - Fino or Manzanilla
- if flor is not healthy or wine not delicate enough - Amontilado
- if wine has even more full body and intense flavours - Palo Cortado
- the wines are now ready to enter the relevant solera system for maturing.
7
Q
Sherry Maturation - comment on location and vessels; and the architecture of the Bodegas
A
Location:
- For DO Jerez-Xeres-Sherry maturation must take place in
- Zona de Crianza which includes
- Jerez de la Frontera
- El Puerto de Santa Maria
- Sanlucar de Barrameda
-
Exception:
- Moscatel can be matured in Chipiona / Chiclana de la Frontera
- Zona de Crianza which includes
- For DO Monzanilla-Sanlucar de Barrameda
- maturation in Sanlucar de Barrameda
Vessels:
- Maturation in old wooden barrels - most common 600 l butts
- Tends to be American oak (cheaper and historic reasons)
Architecture of Bodegas purposefully designed for optimum maturation conditions
- thick walls - constant temps
- tall buildings & high ceilings - warm air rises, butts stacked 3 or 4 high.
- Tall buildings have small windows near roof - face Atlantic allowing cool damp winds in
- window blinds diffuse sunlight and prevent dust/insects entering
- floors made of earth, wetted in summer to cool Bodega and inc humidity.
-
Temp & humidity in Bodega important for growth and maintenance of flor yeast.
- some fluctuations occur and often flor cannot be maintained throughout the year
- flor growth is healthier in Sanlucar de Barrameda, resulting in Manzanilla being lighter and more delicate than Fino.
8
Q
Solera System - Describe
A
The solera system is a method of fractional blending
- used to maintain consistency and quality year after year.
- barrels of solera grouped into sections called criaderas which are stacked together in the Bodega.
- Oldest wine will be called the SOLERA,
- second oldest criadera 1,
- third oldest criadera 2 etc
-
Key rules:
- no more than 40% can be removed from the criadera (blending or bottling) in one year
- no wine younger than 2 years old may be sold.
- Wines can be removed from the solera system before they reach the SOLERA.
- style and price related (maturing wines over long period adds cost)
- inexp wines from 4th/5th criadera, with small qty from 1st criadera poss to add complexity.
- mid price or prem wines will be from SOLERA and/or 1st criadera
- style and price related (maturing wines over long period adds cost)
- Wines can be blended from multiple soleras
- Wines can be fed from 1 solera into another for further maturing.
- e.g. Amontillado will spend 5 years in a Fino solera system
- then spend 8 years in an Amontillado solera system
9
Q
Explain biological ageing
A
The practice of maturing wine under a layer of flor yeast
- Flor comprises 4 strains of sacchoromyces cerevisiae,
- from the grapes in the Jerez region
- also present in Bodegas.
- Under right conditions flor forms naturally on surface of young wine.
- max 15.5% abv
- no added SO2
- plenty of oxygen - sherry butts only 85 - 90% full
- warehouse temps 16 - 20 degc
- humidity above 65%
Influence of flor yeast on the wine:
- creates a reductive environment -
- normally protects fresh fruit char, but Palomino is neutral so flavours expressed relate to reduction - brine, iodine, almonds,
- fruit character expressed as citrus oil/peel and apple skins - this as a result of acetaldehyde.
- Protects wine from oxidation - it remains a pale lemon colour
- consumes alcohol - results in slight decrease in abv of final wine
- releases acetaldehyde, gives flavours of hay, apple, chamomile, bitter
- consumes glycerol and sugar - contrib to very dry nature of bio aged sherry
- reduces levels of acetic acid
Nature of flor changes in different areas (from bodega to bodega) and over the different stages of he solera system
- this can influence the amount of alc consumed and the amount of acetaldehyde produced
Over time in barrel it dies
- dead cells fall to bottom resulting in autolysis, and resulting nutty flavours and texture
In solera system new wine added to old
- replenishes yeast nutrients
- keeps flor alive so it continues to protect from oxidation
- smaller proportions removed more frequently (Fino and Manzanilla)
- means wine will be fresher at pos rather than bottled stock sitting
- Note - it does not improve with age, once bottled.
10
Q
Explain oxidative ageing
A
The impact of oxygen is greatly enhanced by the air present in the part-filled butts.
- the introduction of young wine helps to preserve the character of the base sherry - otherwise it becomes overly oxidised
- colour changes from lemon - gold - amber - brown
-
water evaporates and thus
- alc increases as water evap from barrel ( 3 - 5 % p.a.) a little faster than ethanol evaporates
- remaining components concentrate
- aroma/flavour compounds concentrate and evolve to tertiary flavours caramel/nuts
- glycerol level rises - gives oxid aged wines rounder fuller body than bio aged
- acetaldehyde decreases slightly
- acetic acid, and ethyl acetate (volatile acidity) increase slightly. (smells like nail polish remover)
11
Q
Describe the finishing process of Sherry and what is the difference for EN RAMA
A
Most sherries are tartrate stabilised (contact process), fined and filtered, before bottling
- Filtration is necessary to remove the flor yeast, otherwise it will start to develop when wine is opened and has contact with O2.
- IF EN RAMA - no / minimal filtration to remove flor takes place.
- No legal definition
- “represents wine as straight from the barrel”
- Esp if exporting, some fining/ filtering to remove yeast flor
- No further finishing.
- the result is more complex & intense aromas and taste
- tends to sell for higher prices
- Applies to any dry style of Sherry, however most common with Fino
Closures
- driven cork, cork stopper and screw cap
Wines must be packaged and sealed in one of the three towns in the Zona de Crianza
- Jerez de la Frontera
- Puerto de Santa Maria
- Sanlucar de Barrameda
12
Q
What is the minimum solera aging requirement for Sherry?
A
2 years
13
Q
Styles of Sherry - Fino & Manzanillo
And their Cousin - Pale Cream
A
Fino & Manzanillo
Biologically Aged
Jerez
Flor in Jerez changes during the year (hot summer/cold winter)- more acetaldehyde char
Manzanilla
soleros in SdB have thicker layers of flor all year round the greater protection from O2 means Manzanilla is fresher and lighter than Fino
SdB has moderating influence from Atlantic and humidity
- Pale Lemon
- Dry, m body; l acid, l alc abv
- aromas: - acetaldehyde, bread, dough, almonds, brine, citrus peel
- Manzanilla signature aroma - chamomile
- G - OS Q
- Inexp/prem/sPrem price
PALE CREAM Sherry
Fino/Manzanilla + RCGM = Pale Cream
- Addition of RCGM= no colour change and no oxidative flavours onto the delicate Fino based sherry
- Not aged very long and _sweetening comp dilute_s some flor derived char
- med sweet - sweet
- subtle flor characters
- acc - good Q
- most are inexp
14
Q
Styles of Sherry Amontillado & Palo Cortado
And …. their cousin MEDIUM Sherry
A
Amontillado
First Biological then Oxidatively Aged
- starts life in Fino solera
- refortified to 17% - kills flor
- then matured in oxidative Amontillado solero system
- Inexp styles from younger Fino criadera blended with Amontillado and aged a short period
- More expensive - matured longer, more complex
- the finesse of Fino,
- brine from flor yeast,
- nuttiness and depth from oxidative ageing
- the finesse of Fino,
- good - OS Q
- mid - prem - Sprem price
MEDIUM Sherry
Amontillado + PX = Medium Sherry
- Sweetened with PX
- cheapest from young wines and sweetener added just before bottling. More premium from well aged Amontillado, + matured own solera after sweetening
- range off dry to sweet
- char of both bio and oxid ageing
- acc - OS Q
- range inexp - prem
Palo Cortado
First Biological then Oxidatively Aged
- Historically - an accident
- Name means cut arrow - i.e. started life as a Fino and at Class 2 less delicate, more complexity, less able to support flor yeast - more intense than Amontillado wine
- 4 Conditions: smell/taste/sugar/alcohol to qualify as PC- no further rules for maturation.
- must smell like Amontillado (Bio & Oxi aromas)
- must taste like Oloroso (no bio taste of acetaldehyde/dough)
- <5g/l RS
- 17 - 22%
- less bio ageing means:
- acetaldehyde aromas present but less prominent than Amonitillado
- glycerol stays higher tog with other concentr. Components - PC has slightly fuller, rounder mouthfeel than Amontillado
- good - OS Q
- mid to prem price
15
Q
What is Palo Cortado?
A
No rules to define, however to be classifed as this:
- wine must smell like Amontillado (bio & oxid aromas)
- taste like Oloroso (no bio flav, eg acetaldehyde/dough)
- <5g/l RS
- 17-22% abv
Maturation typically a number of years in Fino solera sys then tfr to Palo Cortado solera sys.
At classification 2 wines wld be less delicate, show more complexity, perhaps less able to support thick layer of flor yeast.
End result depends on producer
- less bio ageing than Amontillado results in
- flavours of acetaldehyde but less than expected in Amontillado
- less bio ageing means g_lycerol level high_er
- together with concentration of other components gives P Cortado a rounder, slightly full mouth feel than Amontillado.
Some mid price, many prem price
G to OS quality.
