3.5 Coastal Transport And Deposition Flashcards
What is longshore drift?
Most waves approach at an angle- generally from the same direction as prevailing winds. As waves advance, material is carried up the beach at an angle. The backwash then pulls material down the beach at right angles to the shore. The net effect of the movement is long shore drift
What is an example of a coastline being eroded due to long shore drift? Why does this happen?
Where the removal of sediment is greater than the supply of new sediment, the beach is eroded.
Strong prevailing south-westerly winds and large waves create sustained long shore drift in West Africa. Cotonou’s coastline in Benin has retreated 400 metres in just 40 years
How are spits formed?
- Longshore drift carries material along a beach
- A sudden change in coastal shape, means sediment will begin to deposit
- The presence of a river or extension to water currents will prevent the spit extending
- Recurved or double spits can be formed
How does a recurved spit form?
The end of the spit will begin to curve, as wave refraction carries material round into the more sheltered water behind the spit
What is an example of a spit?
Poole Harbour has a double spit
Holderness coastline at Spurn Head
How is a drift aligned beach formed?
- Sediment is transferred along the coast by Longshore drift
- These beaches tend to be longer and have graded material
What is an example of a drift aligned beach?
Mappleton, Yorkshire
What is a swash-aligned beach?
- Sediment moves up and down the beach with little lateral transfer
- These occur in tight bays and so are not affected by the effects of LSD
What is an example of a swash aligned beach?
Barafundle Bay, Pembroke
How are offshore bars formed?
- Destructive waves erode sand
- The stronger backwash pulls it offshore and then deposits it as a bar
- These cause waves to break further out to sea
What is an example of an offshore bar?
Scroby Sands, Norfolk
What is a cuspate foreland?
A triangular shaped headland that extends out from the main coastline
How does a cuspate foreland form?
- Longshore drift occurs in opposite directions
- Sediment is deposited where they meet
- Vegetation then grows and stabilises these landforms
What is an example of a cuspate foreland?
Dungeness in Kent
What is a Tombolo and how is it formed?
A beach that has formed between a small island and the mainland. Deposition occurs when waves lose energy and the tombolo begins to build up.
They may be covered at high tide.
What is an example of a tombolo?
St Ninian’s in the Shetland Islands
What is a barrier beach?
What is a barrier island?
Where a beach or spit extends across a bay to join two headlands
A barrier island occurs when the barrier beach and the mainland become separated
How does a barrier beach form?
- Longshore drift extends a spit between two headlands
- These barrier beaches trap water behind as a lagoon
What’s an example of a barrier beach?
Slapton Sands, Devon
What is traction?
Sediment rolls along, pushed by waves and currents
What is saltation?
Sediment bounces along, either due to the force of water or the wind