3 France Cremant / Mousseux Flashcards
1
Q
What is Crémant?
A
- Some (not all) regional French traditional method sparkling wines made outside the Champagne region.
- Crémant PDO created to protect champagne
- used to be semi-sparkling style within Champagne, but because of change in law - 1985 EU banned “méthod champenoise” - Crémant took on current meaning.
- More regions created a Crémant (now 8)
2
Q
How many Crémant appellations are there in France?
Name the 3 largest
A
- 8 Crémant appellations in France:
- Three largest
- Alsace
- Bourgogne
- Loire
3
Q
What are the six common features for all Crémant wines?
A
- Whole-bunch pressing (so hand-harvesting)
- Max yield at pressing of 100l per 150kg grapes
- Min 9 mths lees ageing during 2nd ferment in bottle
- Min 12 mths maturation between tirage and release (includes the 9mths lees ageing)
- Max 13% abv in finished wine
- Min 4 atmospheres pressure
4
Q
Describe Crémant d’Alsace
A
- Sparkling wine made in the traditional method, mainly Brut
- Main grape Pinot Blanc (though 5 others allowed: Auxerrois, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir)
- Medium intensity, apple and pear fruit, biscuit fm autolysis; m+/hi acidity, l/m body
- Longer lees-aged wines medium intensity biscuit, autolytic notes
- Rosé must be 100% Pinot Noir, v good quality m/m+ intensity red berry fruit, 12-14 hrs maceration
5
Q
Climate in Alsace
A
- Vineyards 200m-400m on eastern flanks of Vosges foothills
- Continental, cold winter, sunny warm summer 600mm rain pa
- dry/hot during growing season - irrigation not allowed - risk
- Warm Föhn dries the vines, reduce fungal disease
- Esp at higher elev hi diurnal range - ripeness, acid, pot abv: ideal
Hazards
- water shortage - Vosges = rain shadow, grow season
- Rain thorugh year most in Summer, driest at harvest - BUT….
- Spring frost risk for early bud var - less yield -(climate change)
6
Q
How significant is Crémant for Alsace?
A
- 25% of total wine production
- 500 producers (often alongside still production)
- 3,600 hectares vineyard area +15% in last 10 yrs
7
Q
Where is Pinot Blanc grown in Alsace for sparkling wine production
A
- Vineyards generally sheltered by Vosges
- Best sites usually reserved for noble varieties for still wines (eg Riesling)
- Pinot Blanc grown on lower elevations, fertile soils (not suitable for top quality)
- Also on cooler sites in higher valleys where grapes for still wines would struggle to ripen (eg Munster Valley, where cool airflows retain acidity in grapes)
8
Q
Descsribe advantages and disadvantages of PB in Alsace
A
- 20% of total Alsace vineyard area (includes Auxerrois, as not distinguished in record-keeping, most are P Blanc)
- PROS
- Inexpensive
- Early budding & ripening, so harvest much earlier than other varieties
- Staggers the harvest and grape reception labor
- pear & apples, high acidity (desirable in SW)
- CONS
- early budding = spring frosts
- prone to fungal diseases
- simple quality (top growers use Pinot Gris to imp quality)
9
Q
Describe varieties, risk/hazards, and growing/harvesting of C d’Alsace
A
Varieties
- Pinot Blanc (main grape)
- early bud, susc spring frost, prone to fungal disease, early ripening - means harvest much earlier than for other varieties. Contributes pear and apple, high acid.
- Auxerrois
- Chardonnay (only Alsace appellation allowing it)
- Riesling (preferred for still wines)
- Pinot Gris (used by better producers to add complexity to the Pinot B)
- Pinot Noir (ONLY grape for Cremant D’Alsace rosé)
- cont m/m+ int of red berry fruit.
- NOT allowed - Gewurztraminer, Muscat
Growing & Harvest:
- Vines pruned for higher yield than still as wines do not need high concentration of flavours
- Picking by hand, whole berry mandatory for high quality juice low phenolics
- max yields 80hL/ha
- Harvest early (end Aug/early Sept) for just-ripe fruit/high acid
- Growers must declare in July if they are going to make Crémant
10
Q
Winemaking for Crémant D’Alsace
A
- as pot alcohol low, must often chaptalised
- Then traditional method for fully sparkling
- Wines typical single vintage - no reserve wines
- Time on lees during second fermentation us 12 mths, so aromas mainly primary fruit
- Top producers age longer on lees (eg Cave de Turckheim co-op 2 years for least expensive), giving biscuit, autolytic notes.
- Brut
- Rosés macerate on skin 12-24 hours for colour
- Dosage 8-10g/L range with sugar balancing high acidity
11
Q
Crémant d’Alsace Emotion
A
- 2012 prestige category for Alsace sparkling
- min 75% Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay & Pinot Noir, separately or together
- min 24 mths on lees
- Some v good wines (Dom J-C Buecher), but new category not popular
12
Q
Wine Business structure of Cremant D’Alsace
A
- Production
- 37% merchant houses
- 43% cooperatives
- 20% independent growers
- Largest company is co-op Maison Bestheim, makes sparkling & still wine from 1400 ha, owning half the vineyards, the rest from 450 growers
- Prod doubled 2000-2014
- 80% sold domestically, export % rising in line with global sw demand.
13
Q
Cremant de Bourgogne in one card
A
- Sparkling wine trad method
- Chardonnay (most), Pinot Noir and <20% Gamay
- 10% of total wines of Burgundy
- Production doubled since 2000 (to 19.5m bts) 170 000l p.a.
- Range of styles, white Brut most common
- with med(+)/high acidity.
- Lightly fruity to richly toasty.
- Med intensity green apple and lemon (cool) to apricot (warm)
- brioche autolytic notes.
- Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs and rosé also made.
14
Q
Where grapes grown for Cremant de Bourgogne
A
- Appellation boundary as per Bourgogne AOC - fruit from any Burgundy departéments: 250km from Chablis to Beaujolais; can influence style
- Main sources
- Maconnais (Chardonnay eg Cave de Lugny co-op)
- Cote Chalonnaise, esp around Rully
- Beaujolais
- Chablis area in Yonne dept and Chatillon-sur-Seine (just South of southernmost Champagne)
- Hauts Cotes de Beaune & Hauts Cotes de Nuits
- flatlands on Cote D’Or
- These are cooler and/or cheaper areas
15
Q
Largest single producer of Cremant de Bourgogne?
A
- Veuve Ambal
- owns 6 diff vineyards, supply grapes for 30% of their production volume
16
Q
Why is there a varied climate in Cremant de Bourgogne? Describe the climate variation
A
- Because region 250km North to South
- NORTH cool climate - no hot dry summer. Vines need S or S-E for warmth & light. High acid, light body wines
- CENTRAL continental. Low, oft freezing winter, dry, sunny summers. Just-ripe fruit, high acid. Yet still wines worth more on Cote D’Or, so little goes into Cremant
- SOUTH (Maconnais, Beaujolais) mediterranean, high summer temps, riper fruit, lower acid. Risk summer storms
17
Q
Yields and declarations Cremant de Bourgogne
A
- Max yield 75 hL/ha
- This yield is subst higher than yield allowed for still - therefore
- Must declare fruit is for Cremant before end of March - end of winter when pruning decisions are made.
18
Q
Grapes for Cremant de Bourgogne (7)
A
- Those grown for still.
- In practice Pinot Noir & Chardonnay for autolytic traits
- Also permitted Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Aligoté, Melon and Gamay
19
Q
risks/ hazards for Cremant de Bourgogne
A
- Same as for Burgundy as a whole
- Hail
- Spring frost
- Fungal diseases
- esca
20
Q
winemaking in Cremant de Bourgogne
A
- Base wine from early harvest
- Malo if desired
- Cremant de Bourgogne: Min 30% CH, PN, PB, PG, alone or blend (in practice Ch & PN) max 20% Gamay allowed
- Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay and other whites permitted
- Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc de Noirs only Pinot Noir
- Cremant de Bourgogne Rosé dominantly Pinot Noir, but small Gamay to help with colour if nec
21
Q
Structure of Wine Business of Cremant de Bourgogne
A
- 2/3 made by merchant houses
- 30% cooperatives
- 2% independent winemakers (cos expensive to make!)
- but may take grapes to specialist to make wine, get bottles back to sell
22
Q
Producers / Exports / Sales performane of Cremant de Bourgogne
A
- Sales up 1/3 in decade to 2017
- top 10 companies (negociants and co-ops) 90% of volume.
- Jean Charles Boisset, Louis Bollot significant
- Exports 40% and growing, mainly USA and Sweden, rising rapidly in UK, Belgium & Germany
23
Q
What two tiers of Cremant de Bourgogne wre recently introduced to develop quality heirarchy and improve returns?
A
-
Cremant de Bourgogne Eminent
- lees ageing minimum 24 mths
-
Cremant de Bourgogne Gand Eminent
- whites: Pinot Noir & Chardonnay only
- rosés : 20% gamay allowed
- vintage optional, but usual
- minimum 36 mths lees + 3mths in bottle pre release
- Brut only
24
Q
why is sourcing grapes a poblem for Cremant de Bourgogne?
A
- General harvest yields (hail/frost)
- Grapes for still wines so valuable (esp Chard/ Pinot N)
- eg Rully growers used to grow for Cremant, but now get better prices for still wines
25
Short summary , key points only on Cremant de Loire. production, the wine, the growing environment.
**PRODUCTION**
* Cremant de Loire **_prod vol_** (15mb) roughly= Saumur M (10.6mb) + Vourvray M (8.2mb)
* Total sparkling is **13% of all Loire prod**
* Plantings of **2100 ha, grew 30%** in 5 years up to 2017
* av annual **production 112,000 hl**
* **19 houses, 10 Co-ops; 400** producers,
* Ackerman
* Bouvet-Ladubay
* Gartien & Meyer\*
* Langlois-Chateau\*
* \* owned by Champ houses
* **Historically** cellars based in **Saumur**, TUFF **caves** suitable for ageing
**THE WINE**
* 90% white, Chenin dominated, Brut, high acidity
* med intensity green apple & citrus, light toasty autolytic.
* 2-3 years develop honeyed aromas.
* mainly Brut, some Demi-Sec, Brut Zero increasing
* mid priced, few premium
**GROWING ENVIRONMENT**
* Fruit only from middle Loire Anjou-Saumur and Touraine
* 200km stretch of moderating river/tributaries
* Flatter land suitable (lower ripeness OK), slopes for still wines
* Underlying tuff rock of Saumur excavated for buildings, leaving ideal maturation caves as constant temperature and humidity
26
Climate for Cremant de Loire (includes the Saumur / Vouvray areas)
* Atlantic extends cool, mild influence to E of Tours, centre of Touraine, covering most of Cremant de Loire = **Maritime**
* Regular temps, no extremes, can grow grapes low alcohol in base wines, high acidity.
* Risks: Fungal diseases, untimely rain (flowering, fruit set and harvest)
27
Soils in Cremant de Loire
* Big area, wide range:
* clay-limestone, flint-clay, sand, gravel, tuff.
* more schist and limestone in Anjou
* more chalk in Touraine
* **Overall key properties are good drainage and water characteristics of limestone**
* Best-exposed sites for still wines, less exposed sites, often more clay for sparkling.
* Too much clay declassified as too cold, lack drainage.
* Rootstocks Fercal and Riparia Gloire de Montpelier used - lime resistant - protect from chlorosis
28
Name the permitted grape varieties in Cremant de Loire; Saumur Mousseux and Vouvray Mousseux
**Allowed for C de L is a blend of :**
* Chenin Blanc (major in most wines) CB
* Cabernet Franc CF
* Cabernet Sauvignon CabS
* Grolleau Noir
* Grolleau Gris
* Pineau d'Aunis
* Pinot Noir PN
* Chardonnay CH
* **Max 30% Cab Sav and Pineau d'Aunis allowed in blend tog/sep**
* **NO Sauvignon Blanc SB - too aromatic for trad method**
**Allowed for Saumur Mousseux**
* CB Min 60%
* SB Max 10%
* Saumur **Rose**
* CF Min 60%
* SB Max 10%
* **100l from 130 kg means cheaper price, cheaper q.**
**Allowed for Vouvray Mousseux**
* Majority blend from CB, up to 100%
* Max 10% SB
29
Vineyard treatment, yields and declaration for Cremant de Loire; Saumur and Vouvray
**C de L**
* Vines pruned to greater crop load than still
* Ave prod 14.9m bottles from 2100 ha,
* *or 112000 hl from 2100 ha*
* 100l from 150 kg
* max yield 74 hL/ha
* Producers declare in July to make Cremant
**Saumur**
* 10.6m btls from 1300 ha
* 100l from 130kg fruit
* max yield 67 hl/ha
* Yields 20% higher than still
* Cheaper, lower Q, good for cocktails
**Vouvray**
* 8.2m btls from 1200 ha
* max yield 65hl/ha
* Yields 20% higher than still
30
Comment on winemaking practices in Cremant de Loire
* Most common pneumatic press (quality/ low phenolic)
* Base wines stainless steel fermented (no oak flavours)
* Some premium Bouvay-Ladubay's Cuvee Tresor ferment in oak
* Malo varies: full, partial, none
* wines from different areas can be blended before second fermentation to maintain consistency of style
* Reserve wines more common in premium wines
* timeon lees varies from min 9 mths (primary fruit) to 2 yrs for autolytic.
31
What is the new top tier sparkling category in the Loire
* 2018 Prestige de Loire (wines back to 2010)
* aim to establish min price €10 in France
* applies across Loire, Anjou, Saumur and Vouvray
* White only
* Chenin, Cab Franc, Chard, Pinot N, singly or blended
* 24 mths on lees minimum
* must be vintage dated
* must be Brut style (incl ZD and BN)
* Producers must hit sustainable viticulture in 5 years
32
Structure of Cremant de Loire industry
* Production divided between
* 19 merchant houses, 10 co-ops, 400 producers
* 9 large houses = 80% production
* eg Ackerman, Bouvet- Ladubay, Gratien & Meyer, Langlois-Chateau
* Larger houses use own fruit and bought from growers
* buying grapes, not must, so can check health and press according to requirements
* Dom/Exp Sales = 50:50
* Exp Germany, USA, UK
33
One card on Saumur Mousseux AOC
(Mousseux is generic term for sparkling)
* Mainly traditional method, mainly Brut
* Saumur sparkling:still 60:40
* Deep cellars from tuff perfect for lees ageing in bottle
* Av annual prod 10.6m bottles from 1,300 ha vines
* Min 60% Chenin / max 10% SB
* Rosés :mini 60% Cab F / max 10% SB
* Higher juice 100l from 130kg (Cremant 100 from 150 kg)
* Mechanical harvest allowed (unlike Cremant),
* cheaper / lower Q
34
One card on Vouvray Mousseux
* Traditional method
* Deep cellars from tuff perfect for lees ageing in bottle
* Prod 8.2m bottles from 1,200 ha
* Minimum 95% Chenin Blanc cb 100%
* or some added "Orbois" var.
* Tiny amount Vouvray Pétillant (lightly sparkling)
* Pet Nat becoming fashionable
* 100l from 130kg (Cremant 100 from 150 kg)
* Mechanical harvest allowed
* Cheaper / lower Q
* Common for smaller prod to send base wine to spec for 2nd Ferm, bottling, lees ageing, disgorging
* bottles returned to producer for labelling and dist.
35
Why is making sparkling wine instead of still wine an attractive option in Saumur and Vouvray?
* 20% greater yield (don't need fruit concentration)
* 65 hL/ha Vouvray, 67hL/ha Saumur
* pick earlier at lower ripeness so less risk of late season rain or botrytis spoiling/ reducing crop
* Mechanical harvest
* More juice permitted
* 130l from 130kg
