3 France Cremant / Mousseux Flashcards

1
Q

What is Crémant?

A
  • Some (not all) regional French traditional method sparkling wines made outside the Champagne region.
  • Crémant PDO created to protect champagne
  • used to be semi-sparkling style within Champagne, but because of change in law - 1985 EU banned “méthod champenoise” - Crémant took on current meaning.
  • More regions created a Crémant (now 8)
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2
Q

How many Crémant appellations are there in France?

Name the 3 largest

A
  • 8 Crémant appellations in France:
  • Three largest
    • Alsace
    • Bourgogne
    • Loire
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3
Q

What are the six common features for all Crémant wines?

A
  1. Whole-bunch pressing (so hand-harvesting)
  2. Max yield at pressing of 100l per 150kg grapes
  3. Min 9 mths lees ageing during 2nd ferment in bottle
  4. Min 12 mths maturation between tirage and release (includes the 9mths lees ageing)
  5. Max 13% abv in finished wine
  6. Min 4 atmospheres pressure
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4
Q

Describe Crémant d’Alsace

A
  • Sparkling wine made in the traditional method, mainly Brut
  • Main grape Pinot Blanc (though 5 others allowed: Auxerrois, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir)
  • Medium intensity, apple and pear fruit, biscuit fm autolysis; m+/hi acidity, l/m body
  • Longer lees-aged wines medium intensity biscuit, autolytic notes
  • Rosé must be 100% Pinot Noir, v good quality m/m+ intensity red berry fruit, 12-14 hrs maceration
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5
Q

Climate in Alsace

A
  • Vineyards 200m-400m on eastern flanks of Vosges foothills
  • Continental, cold winter, sunny warm summer 600mm rain pa
    • dry/hot during growing season - irrigation not allowed - risk
  • Warm Föhn dries the vines, reduce fungal disease
  • Esp at higher elev hi diurnal range - ripeness, acid, pot abv: ideal

Hazards

  • water shortage - Vosges = rain shadow, grow season
  • Rain thorugh year most in Summer, driest at harvest - BUT….
  • Spring frost risk for early bud var - less yield -(climate change)
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6
Q

How significant is Crémant for Alsace?

A
  • 25% of total wine production
  • 500 producers (often alongside still production)
  • 3,600 hectares vineyard area +15% in last 10 yrs
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7
Q

Where is Pinot Blanc grown in Alsace for sparkling wine production

A
  • Vineyards generally sheltered by Vosges
  • Best sites usually reserved for noble varieties for still wines (eg Riesling)
  • Pinot Blanc grown on lower elevations, fertile soils (not suitable for top quality)
  • Also on cooler sites in higher valleys where grapes for still wines would struggle to ripen (eg Munster Valley, where cool airflows retain acidity in grapes)
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8
Q

Descsribe advantages and disadvantages of PB in Alsace

A
  • 20% of total Alsace vineyard area (includes Auxerrois, as not distinguished in record-keeping, most are P Blanc)
  • PROS
    • Inexpensive
    • Early budding & ripening, so harvest much earlier than other varieties
      • Staggers the harvest and grape reception labor
    • pear & apples, high acidity (desirable in SW)
  • CONS
    • early budding = spring frosts
    • prone to fungal diseases
    • simple quality (top growers use Pinot Gris to imp quality)
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9
Q

Describe varieties, risk/hazards, and growing/harvesting of C d’Alsace

A

Varieties​

  • Pinot Blanc (main grape)
    • early bud, susc spring frost, prone to fungal disease, early ripening - means harvest much earlier than for other varieties. Contributes pear and apple, high acid.
  • Auxerrois
  • Chardonnay (only Alsace appellation allowing it)
  • Riesling (preferred for still wines)
  • Pinot Gris (used by better producers to add complexity to the Pinot B)
  • Pinot Noir (ONLY grape for Cremant D’Alsace rosé)
    • cont m/m+ int of red berry fruit.
  • NOT allowed - Gewurztraminer, Muscat

Growing & Harvest:

  • Vines pruned for higher yield than still as wines do not need high concentration of flavours
  • Picking by hand, whole berry mandatory for high quality juice low phenolics
  • max yields 80hL/ha
  • Harvest early (end Aug/early Sept) for just-ripe fruit/high acid
  • Growers must declare in July if they are going to make Crémant
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10
Q

Winemaking for Crémant D’Alsace

A
  • as pot alcohol low, must often chaptalised
  • Then traditional method for fully sparkling
  • Wines typical single vintage - no reserve wines
  • Time on lees during second fermentation us 12 mths, so aromas mainly primary fruit
  • Top producers age longer on lees (eg Cave de Turckheim co-op 2 years for least expensive), giving biscuit, autolytic notes.
  • Brut
  • Rosés macerate on skin 12-24 hours for colour
  • Dosage 8-10g/L range with sugar balancing high acidity
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11
Q

Crémant d’Alsace Emotion

A
  • 2012 prestige category for Alsace sparkling
  • min 75% Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay & Pinot Noir, separately or together
  • min 24 mths on lees
  • Some v good wines (Dom J-C Buecher), but new category not popular
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12
Q

Wine Business structure of Cremant D’Alsace

A
  • Production
    • 37% merchant houses
    • 43% cooperatives
    • 20% independent growers
  • Largest company is co-op Maison Bestheim, makes sparkling & still wine from 1400 ha, owning half the vineyards, the rest from 450 growers
  • Prod doubled 2000-2014
  • 80% sold domestically, export % rising in line with global sw demand.
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13
Q

Cremant de Bourgogne in one card

A
  • Sparkling wine trad method
  • Chardonnay (most), Pinot Noir and <20% Gamay
  • 10% of total wines of Burgundy
  • Production doubled since 2000 (to 19.5m bts) 170 000l p.a.
  • Range of styles, white Brut most common
    • with med(+)/high acidity.
    • Lightly fruity to richly toasty.
    • Med intensity green apple and lemon (cool) to apricot (warm)
    • brioche autolytic notes.
  • Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs and rosé also made.
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14
Q

Where grapes grown for Cremant de Bourgogne

A
  • Appellation boundary as per Bourgogne AOC - fruit from any Burgundy departéments: 250km from Chablis to Beaujolais; can influence style
  • Main sources
    • Maconnais (Chardonnay eg Cave de Lugny co-op)
    • Cote Chalonnaise, esp around Rully
    • Beaujolais
    • Chablis area in Yonne dept and Chatillon-sur-Seine (just South of southernmost Champagne)
    • Hauts Cotes de Beaune & Hauts Cotes de Nuits
    • flatlands on Cote D’Or
  • These are cooler and/or cheaper areas
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15
Q

Largest single producer of Cremant de Bourgogne?

A
  • Veuve Ambal
  • owns 6 diff vineyards, supply grapes for 30% of their production volume
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16
Q

Why is there a varied climate in Cremant de Bourgogne? Describe the climate variation

A
  • Because region 250km North to South
  • NORTH cool climate - no hot dry summer. Vines need S or S-E for warmth & light. High acid, light body wines
  • CENTRAL continental. Low, oft freezing winter, dry, sunny summers. Just-ripe fruit, high acid. Yet still wines worth more on Cote D’Or, so little goes into Cremant
  • SOUTH (Maconnais, Beaujolais) mediterranean, high summer temps, riper fruit, lower acid. Risk summer storms
17
Q

Yields and declarations Cremant de Bourgogne

A
  • Max yield 75 hL/ha
  • This yield is subst higher than yield allowed for still - therefore
  • Must declare fruit is for Cremant before end of March - end of winter when pruning decisions are made.
18
Q

Grapes for Cremant de Bourgogne (7)

A
  • Those grown for still.
  • In practice Pinot Noir & Chardonnay for autolytic traits
  • Also permitted Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Aligoté, Melon and Gamay
19
Q

risks/ hazards for Cremant de Bourgogne

A
  • Same as for Burgundy as a whole
    • Hail
    • Spring frost
    • Fungal diseases
    • esca
20
Q

winemaking in Cremant de Bourgogne

A
  • Base wine from early harvest
  • Malo if desired
  • Cremant de Bourgogne: Min 30% CH, PN, PB, PG, alone or blend (in practice Ch & PN) max 20% Gamay allowed
  • Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay and other whites permitted
  • Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc de Noirs only Pinot Noir
  • Cremant de Bourgogne Rosé dominantly Pinot Noir, but small Gamay to help with colour if nec
21
Q

Structure of Wine Business of Cremant de Bourgogne

A
  • 2/3 made by merchant houses
  • 30% cooperatives
  • 2% independent winemakers (cos expensive to make!)
    • but may take grapes to specialist to make wine, get bottles back to sell
22
Q

Producers / Exports / Sales performane of Cremant de Bourgogne

A
  • Sales up 1/3 in decade to 2017
  • top 10 companies (negociants and co-ops) 90% of volume.
  • Jean Charles Boisset, Louis Bollot significant
  • Exports 40% and growing, mainly USA and Sweden, rising rapidly in UK, Belgium & Germany
23
Q

What two tiers of Cremant de Bourgogne wre recently introduced to develop quality heirarchy and improve returns?

A
  1. Cremant de Bourgogne Eminent
    • lees ageing minimum 24 mths
  2. Cremant de Bourgogne Gand Eminent
    • whites: Pinot Noir & Chardonnay only
    • rosés : 20% gamay allowed
    • vintage optional, but usual
    • minimum 36 mths lees + 3mths in bottle pre release
    • Brut only
24
Q

why is sourcing grapes a poblem for Cremant de Bourgogne?

A
  • General harvest yields (hail/frost)
  • Grapes for still wines so valuable (esp Chard/ Pinot N)
    • eg Rully growers used to grow for Cremant, but now get better prices for still wines
25
Q

Short summary , key points only on Cremant de Loire. production, the wine, the growing environment.

A

PRODUCTION

  • Cremant de Loire prod vol (15mb) roughly= Saumur M (10.6mb) + Vourvray M (8.2mb)
  • Total sparkling is 13% of all Loire prod
  • Plantings of 2100 ha, grew 30% in 5 years up to 2017
  • av annual production 112,000 hl
  • 19 houses, 10 Co-ops; 400 producers,
    • Ackerman
    • Bouvet-Ladubay
    • Gartien & Meyer*
    • Langlois-Chateau*
      • * owned by Champ houses
    • Historically cellars based in Saumur, TUFF caves suitable for ageing

THE WINE

  • 90% white, Chenin dominated, Brut, high acidity
    • med intensity green apple & citrus, light toasty autolytic.
    • 2-3 years develop honeyed aromas.
    • mainly Brut, some Demi-Sec, Brut Zero increasing
    • mid priced, few premium

GROWING ENVIRONMENT

  • Fruit only from middle Loire Anjou-Saumur and Touraine
    • 200km stretch of moderating river/tributaries
    • Flatter land suitable (lower ripeness OK), slopes for still wines
    • Underlying tuff rock of Saumur excavated for buildings, leaving ideal maturation caves as constant temperature and humidity
26
Q

Climate for Cremant de Loire (includes the Saumur / Vouvray areas)

A
  • Atlantic extends cool, mild influence to E of Tours, centre of Touraine, covering most of Cremant de Loire = Maritime
  • Regular temps, no extremes, can grow grapes low alcohol in base wines, high acidity.
  • Risks: Fungal diseases, untimely rain (flowering, fruit set and harvest)
27
Q

Soils in Cremant de Loire

A
  • Big area, wide range:
    • clay-limestone, flint-clay, sand, gravel, tuff.
    • more schist and limestone in Anjou
    • more chalk in Touraine
  • Overall key properties are good drainage and water characteristics of limestone
  • Best-exposed sites for still wines, less exposed sites, often more clay for sparkling.
    • Too much clay declassified as too cold, lack drainage.
  • Rootstocks Fercal and Riparia Gloire de Montpelier used - lime resistant - protect from chlorosis
28
Q

Name the permitted grape varieties in Cremant de Loire; Saumur Mousseux and Vouvray Mousseux

A

Allowed for C de L is a blend of :

  • Chenin Blanc (major in most wines) CB
  • Cabernet Franc CF
  • Cabernet Sauvignon CabS
  • Grolleau Noir
  • Grolleau Gris
  • Pineau d’Aunis
  • Pinot Noir PN
  • Chardonnay CH
    • Max 30% Cab Sav and Pineau d’Aunis allowed in blend tog/sep
    • NO Sauvignon Blanc SB - too aromatic for trad method

Allowed for Saumur Mousseux

  • CB Min 60%
  • SB Max 10%
  • Saumur Rose
    • CF Min 60%
    • SB Max 10%
  • 100l from 130 kg means cheaper price, cheaper q.

Allowed for Vouvray Mousseux

  • Majority blend from CB, up to 100%
  • Max 10% SB
29
Q

Vineyard treatment, yields and declaration for Cremant de Loire; Saumur and Vouvray

A

C de L

  • Vines pruned to greater crop load than still
    • Ave prod 14.9m bottles from 2100 ha,
      • or 112000 hl from 2100 ha
    • 100l from 150 kg
    • max yield 74 hL/ha
  • Producers declare in July to make Cremant

Saumur

  • 10.6m btls from 1300 ha
  • 100l from 130kg fruit
  • max yield 67 hl/ha
  • Yields 20% higher than still
  • Cheaper, lower Q, good for cocktails

Vouvray

  • 8.2m btls from 1200 ha
  • max yield 65hl/ha
  • Yields 20% higher than still
30
Q

Comment on winemaking practices in Cremant de Loire

A
  • Most common pneumatic press (quality/ low phenolic)
  • Base wines stainless steel fermented (no oak flavours)
    • Some premium Bouvay-Ladubay’s Cuvee Tresor ferment in oak
  • Malo varies: full, partial, none
  • wines from different areas can be blended before second fermentation to maintain consistency of style
    • Reserve wines more common in premium wines
  • timeon lees varies from min 9 mths (primary fruit) to 2 yrs for autolytic.
31
Q

What is the new top tier sparkling category in the Loire

A
  • 2018 Prestige de Loire (wines back to 2010)
  • aim to establish min price €10 in France
  • applies across Loire, Anjou, Saumur and Vouvray
  • White only
    • Chenin, Cab Franc, Chard, Pinot N, singly or blended
  • 24 mths on lees minimum
  • must be vintage dated
  • must be Brut style (incl ZD and BN)
  • Producers must hit sustainable viticulture in 5 years
32
Q

Structure of Cremant de Loire industry

A
  • Production divided between
    • 19 merchant houses, 10 co-ops, 400 producers
    • 9 large houses = 80% production
    • eg Ackerman, Bouvet- Ladubay, Gratien & Meyer, Langlois-Chateau
  • Larger houses use own fruit and bought from growers
    • buying grapes, not must, so can check health and press according to requirements
  • Dom/Exp Sales = 50:50
    • Exp Germany, USA, UK
33
Q

One card on Saumur Mousseux AOC

(Mousseux is generic term for sparkling)

A
  • Mainly traditional method, mainly Brut
  • Saumur sparkling:still 60:40
  • Deep cellars from tuff perfect for lees ageing in bottle
  • Av annual prod 10.6m bottles from 1,300 ha vines
  • Min 60% Chenin / max 10% SB
  • Rosés :mini 60% Cab F / max 10% SB
  • Higher juice 100l from 130kg (Cremant 100 from 150 kg)
  • Mechanical harvest allowed (unlike Cremant),
    • cheaper / lower Q
34
Q

One card on Vouvray Mousseux

A
  • Traditional method
  • Deep cellars from tuff perfect for lees ageing in bottle
  • Prod 8.2m bottles from 1,200 ha
  • Minimum 95% Chenin Blanc cb 100%
    • or some added “Orbois” var.
  • Tiny amount Vouvray Pétillant (lightly sparkling)
  • Pet Nat becoming fashionable
  • 100l from 130kg (Cremant 100 from 150 kg)
  • Mechanical harvest allowed
    • Cheaper / lower Q
  • Common for smaller prod to send base wine to spec for 2nd Ferm, bottling, lees ageing, disgorging
    • bottles returned to producer for labelling and dist.
35
Q

Why is making sparkling wine instead of still wine an attractive option in Saumur and Vouvray?

A
  • 20% greater yield (don’t need fruit concentration)
  • 65 hL/ha Vouvray, 67hL/ha Saumur
  • ​pick earlier at lower ripeness so less risk of late season rain or botrytis spoiling/ reducing crop
  • Mechanical harvest
  • More juice permitted
    • 130l from 130kg