11 Italy : Lambrusco

Question 1

Define Lambrusco

Answer 1

• Mainly red, spumante or frizzante
• mainly tank-fermented
• mainly in Emilia-Romagna region, Central Italy
• Lambrusco varieties: flav char strawberry, red cherry, red plum fruit
• m/m+ tannins
• high acid, usually RS
• colour ranges pink - deep ruby
• Q acc/g (small no of vg ex.) inexp/mid price

Question 2

The climate, growing environment, soil and viticulture of Lambrusco

Answer 2

• Emilia-Romagna, low hills (150m)
• Warm continental, adequate rain (735mm pa). Irrigation used at key times
• Some threat of rain at harvest
• Alluvial soils, clay and silt. Fertile. Good water retention. Prone to compaction: grass between rows, also allows mechanisation.
• Fertile soil and high vigour grapes = high yields
• Cordon trained (eg Sylvoz) or Geneva Double Curtain
  
  • suits high vigour vines, allows full mechanisation
• Humidity on river plan means reg spraying against fungal disease
  
  • Sustainable practices incl proactive weather monitoring + canopy management to reduce need for sprays
• Grapevine yellows incr. threat - managed by rapid removal of affected plant (bacterial, no cure) and managing the vectors (leafhoppers).

Question 3

Most important grape varieties of Lambrusco & regulations for the various DOC’s

Answer 3

• Lambrusco Salamino
  
  • Most planted. Fragrant, deep colour, full body
  • high acid, thus blended with other Lambrusco varieties
  • DOC = Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce
    
    • Requires 85% of this variety
    • max yield 133hl/ha
• Lambrusco Grasparossa
  
  • Best on clay/silt. only variety grown on hillsides
  • Deep colour, full body, med (+) tannins
  • DOC = “Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro”
    
    • requires 85% of this variety
    • max yield 126hl/ha
• Lambrusco di Sorbara
  
  • Pale, lighter body, high acid.
  • DOC = “Lambrusco di Sorbara”
    
    • requires 60% this variety
    • max yield 126hl/ha

Also

• Reggiano DOC
  
  • Made from Lambrusco varieties grown in Reggiano Region
  • Max yield 126 hl/ha
• Modena DOC
  
  • Made from Lambrusco varieties grown in Modena Region
  • Max yield 161hl/ha = low fruit concentration.

Question 4

How is Lambrusco made in the winery?

Answer 4

• Product process allows quick, high vol, inexp wine
• Typically 1-2 days maceration
  
  • (Lambrusco high in anthocyanins thus restrict tannin extraction)
• 3-4 days maceration usually from Grasparossa for more structure, full body
• Tank method (majority)
• 1st fermentation low 18-20C ^{preserve primary fruit}
• Unusually for red, malo blocked ^{to preserve high acidity}
• 2nd ferment low 12-15C
  
  • 2 weeks frizzante, 4 wks spumante
• No additional lees ^{to preserve primary fruit}
• No dosage dryer styles (Zero D to Brut)
• Sweet wines stop ferment or add must/ RCGM
• Also some bottle-ferment and some trad undisgorged ancestral method

Question 5

Market share IGT vs DOC wines in Em i l i a- Romagna?

Wine laws governing Lambrusco?

• alcohol levels
• labelling

High level breakdown of industry structure?

Answer 5

IGT Emilia

• Lambrusco Spum and Friz cb labelled “IGT Emilia”
• Of the Spumante 30% is DOC rest IGT

DOC Regulations & Labelling

• 11% abv min for spumante -label per EU Rules
• 10.5% abv for frizzante
  
  • has extra categories of sweetness
    
    • Secco = dry
    • Abboccato = sweet
    • Amabile = lovely
• 7% abv If Dolce / Amabile (min pot abc of 10.5-11%)

Industry

• Ave VY size <3ha, (increasing since consolidation from 2000 onward
• Most growers take fruit to be vinified at co-ops / large pvt wineries

Markets

• 1/3 domestic - smkt / hosp/ spec retail
• 2/3 Export
• Some good q examples with well defined fruit Cleto Chiarli

Challenge

• Reputation prevails: inexp, red , frothy, sweet
• largely due to poor Q wines exported in large qties in the past
• Part of the issue is that Lambrusco is not protected. Any wine can be sold as Lambrusco.