2. Yarns Flashcards
Yarn
A fine, continuous length of fibres with or without twist
More twists =
Stronger but less light reflecting
Thickness of yarn and yarn twists…
Weight, flexibility, handle, and end-use of the fabric
Examples of staple yarns
Cotton, linen, hair, wool, spun silk, or cut manufactured fibres
Examples of filament yarns
Continuous filaments of silk and manufactured fibres
Z twists
Clockwise
S twists
Anti clockwise
Carding
Brushing to remove dirt and lanolin, causes fibres to lie parallel
Reasons for ply yarns
Increases strength, regularity, texture, and weight, and creates a special effect
Combing
Improves strength of the yarn, regulates the thickness, and increases the lustre
Wet spinning method
Polymer
Spinneret
Into chemical fluid
Solidified
Dry spinning method
Polymer Spinneret Into stream of warm air Evaporates the solvent Solidifies
Melt spinning method
Polymer
Spinneret
Into stream of cold air
Cools and solidifies
What affects the smoothness of a yarn?
Spun yarns are hairy due to the staple yarns used
Filament yarns are smooth
What affects the handle of a yarn?
A smooth filament yarn helps make the fabric feel compact, a hairy yarn gives a fuller handle
What affects a yarns lustre?
Filament yarns are smooth so more light reflects off them
What affects regularity of a yarn?
Impossible to achieve the regularity in the thickness when spinning a yarn, staple fibres make irregular yarns because are different lengths
Thermoplastic
Can be softened by heat, hardened by cooling, and then softened by heat over and over again
If a yarn is coiled how does it affect the properties?
Gives it elasticity as the coils stretch out
If a yearn is scrunched up how does it affect the properties?
Soft because fibres sticking out
How can yarns be bulked
Putting air into it by finishing e.g. False twist, BCF, air-jet texturing
Why bulk yarns?
Makes it softer
Examples of fancy yarns
Boucle, ratings, stub yarn, chenille yarn, loop yarn (towelling)
Chenille
Cut pile/nap bound to a core
Example of core spun yarn
Elastic because Lycra can’t be by themselves
Boucle