1. Fibre Types Flashcards
Crimp
a kink, curl, or zig-zag in the fibre
what special qualities does the crimp give to a woollen fibre?
The ability to stretch, trap air (so insulate), and helps resist creasing
Staple fibre
a fibre with a short length
Give three reasons why silk fabrics are popular for special occasion dresses
lustre, easy to dye, and drape - attractive; soft handle, absorbent, and warm - wearer’s comfort
Cellulose fibres
cotton, linen, ramie (also bamboo, jute, hemp, pineapple, and banana)
Protein fibres
wool, silk, hair (cashmere, angora, llama etc)
Regenerated fibres
viscose, modal, acetate
Synthetic fibres
polyester, polyamide/nylon, elastane, acrylic, PVC
What are synthetic fibres made from?
oil and coal / petrochemicals
What are regenerated fibres made from?
wood pulp - pine trees
What’s the difference between a mature cotton fibre and an immature cotton fibre?
immature = rounded cross section mature = dries so looks like a flattened bean, twists along length like a twisted ribbon
Why is cotton a poor insulator/cool to wear?
smooth surface of fibre so no air can be trapped between the fibres
Why does cotton not have lustre?
Flat and twisted fibre does not reflect light
What are the environmental and ethical concerns with cotton production?
cotton pickers cut their hands, inhale fumes of pesticides, pesticides harm the environment, bleaching
Nodes
Irregular joint markings where the buds come off the stem
More nodes =
less lustrous
Further away the nodes are =
better quality
What happens to linen the more it gets washed?
it gets softer
How much water can linen absorb before felling damp?
20% of its weight
More creases =
stiffer linen
Why is linen not lustrous?
not smooth - nodes and creases
What s the strongest natural fibre?
ramie, 8x stronger than cotton
Advantages of ramie
eco friendly (doesn’t need herbicides/pesticides) and stain resistant
Disadvantages of ramie
v v expensive
What is the structure of silk?
2 triangular shaped filaments held together with sericin
Why is silk soft and lustrous?
The triangular cross section is smooth
What is the only natural filament fibre?
Cultivated silk
Cultivated silk
it dies in the cocoon so the filament is continuous and produces a smooth silk
Wild silk
it breaks out of the cocoon and produces a slubbed silk
How much water can silk absorb before feeling damp?
1/3 of its weight
Why are fibres non-static?
it always contains some moisture eg. cotton, silk, linen, wool
Lanolin
A natural grease covering the outer surface of a wool fibre which makes it water repellent.
Carding
two brush rollers which remove lanolin and lie the fibres parallel
More crimps =
finer wool
Shetland wool
coarse and long fibres
Lambswool
soft and fragile as its the first cut from the sheep
Merino wool
softest and warmest wool, stronger and more expensive than lambswool
Worsted wool
long staple fibres are used to produce a strong and smooth yarn, the fabric is woven and often used for suiting
Woollen yarn
short staple fibres are used to produce soft, light, bulky yarns the fabric is knitted
Hair fibres
mohair, alpaca, llama, cashmere, angora, vicuna