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textiles paper 1 > 1.2 performance characteristics of fibres > Flashcards

1.2 performance characteristics of fibres Flashcards

1
Q

where does cotton come from

A

the seed fibre found in the cotton balls of the cotton plant

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2
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of cotton

A
  • naturally breathable, conducts heat away from the body
  • very absorbent
  • non static as moisture is present
  • good strength due to its natural twist
  • very little elasticity, creases easily
  • highly flammable
  • poor insulator
  • comfortable and soft handle
  • damaged by mildew and prolonged sunlight exposure
  • biodegradable
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3
Q

what are examples of cotton

A
  • calico
  • muslin
  • denim
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4
Q

what are the uses of cotton

A
  • apparel fabrics such shirts, dresses and jeans
  • home textiles such as towels
  • commercial textiles such as medical dressings
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5
Q

what is cotton typically blended and mixed with

A

polyester, wool and elastane

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6
Q

what is the fibre production of cotton

A
  • cotton grows in a boll around the seeds of a cotton plant
  • harvesting is carried out by hand or using a picking machine
  • fibres are separated from seeds using process called ginning
  • mechanical purification is used to remove foreign matter
  • fibres are sourced to remove natural wax coating from surface of fibres
  • processed cotton fibres are spun into staple fibre yarns
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7
Q

where does linen come from

A

the bast fibre of the flax plant stem

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8
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of linen

A
  • highly absorbent and naturally breathable
  • very strong due to long length of staple fibres
  • poor elasticity and creases easily
  • highly flammable
  • poor insulator
  • flat surface reflects light so has subtle lustre
  • poor drape and stiff handle
  • damaged by mildew, sweat and bleach
  • biodegradeable
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9
Q

what are the uses of linen

A
  • apparel fabrics such as summer garments
  • home textiles such as table cloths
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10
Q

what is linen typically blended and mixed with

A

cotton

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11
Q

what is the fibre production of linen

A
  • fibres are loosened from flax plant stems using process called retting
  • retted stems are crushed in process called scotching to separate fibres from woody outer bark
  • fibres are heckled to remove short fibres leaving long fibres
  • processed linen fibres spun into staple yarn
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12
Q

what makes ramie a highly sustainable fibre source

A

it can be harvested from the sample plant up to 3 times

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13
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of ramie

A
  • good absorbency and breathable
  • keeps it shape and doesnt shrink
  • harder to dye than cotton
  • naturally white in colour
  • has good strength
  • poor elasticity and creases easily
  • highly flammable
  • poor insulator, cool to wear
  • smooth lustrous appearance
  • stiff and brittle handle
  • resistant to mildew, light and insect attack
  • biodegradable
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14
Q

what are the uses of ramie

A
  • apparel fabrics such as light weight summer clothes
  • home textiles such as table linens
  • commercial textiles such as ribbon
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15
Q

what is ramie typically blended and mixed with

A

cotton, wool, polyester and acrylic

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16
Q

what is the fibre production of ramie

A
  • stems harvested by cutting above root
  • laborious process of decortication is used to remove bark from stem
  • raw fibres are washed, dried and degummed using chemicals to extract spinnable fibres
  • processed ramie fibres are spun into staple yarns
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17
Q

where does wool come from

A

the fleece of sheep

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18
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of wool

A
  • water repellent and excellent moisture absorption
  • anti static as moisture is always present
  • heat, moisture and mechanical action shrink and felt the fibres making wool difficult to care for
  • adequate strength but not very durable
  • high natural fire resistance, self extinguishes if set alight
  • excellent elasticity, natural crimp provides springiness enabling creases to fall out
  • good insulation and thermal qualities
  • no lustre because fibres arnt smooth
  • origin, fineness and length of fibre determine handle of wool fabrics, wool can be soft or itchy
  • biodegradable
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19
Q

what are examples of wool

A

flannel, jersey, tweed

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20
Q

what are the uses of wool

A
  • apparel fabrics such as coats, suits and trousers
  • home textiles such as blankets
  • commercial textiles such as loft insulation
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21
Q

what is wool typically blended and mixed with

A

cotton, silk, polyester, acrylic and other animal hair fibres

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22
Q

what is sport wool

A

a mix of merino wool and polyester fibres. the wool draws away moisture from the body which is wicked away by polyester keeping the wearer cool

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23
Q

what are the different processes used in wool fibre production

A
  • shearing
  • sorting
  • carbonising and scouring
  • carding
  • spinning
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24
Q

what is shearing

A

sheeps fleece is removed by hand typically once a year

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25
Q

what is sorting

A

longer fibres are separated from shorter fibres. longer fibres are processed through worsted system to make high end products like suits and shorter fibres are processed through woollen system to make products such as blankets and sweaters

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26
Q

what is carbonising and scouring

A

carbonising is a chemical process that removes vegetable matter such as seeds and grass. scouring is a mechanical process that washes the fibres to remove lanolin and dirt

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27
Q

what is carding

A

disentangles clumps of fibres and aligns them to one another in a web which is then condensed into a continuous strand of fibres called a silver. this silver is processed further using roving machine to compact and hold fibres closer together minimising chance of breakage during spinning

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28
Q

what is spinning

A

rovings are fed into mechanised spinning machine and predetermined amount of twist is applied. yarn is rewound onto suitable packages for knitting or weaving

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29
Q

what are the other animal hair fibres

A
  • cashmere from the undercoat of cashmere goats
  • mohair from angora goats
  • angora from angora rabbits
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30
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of animal hair fibres

A
  • naturally fire resistant
  • very good thermal insulators
  • soft, luxurious handle and appearance
  • biodegradable
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31
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of cashmere fibres

A
  • very soft
  • lightweight
  • lustrous
  • three times more insulating than wool
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32
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of mohair fibres

A
  • long and lightly curled
  • silky lustre
  • naturally elastic
  • crease resistant
  • dye well
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33
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of angora fibres

A
  • very fine and light weight
  • hollow core makes fibres good at absorbing moisture vapour
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34
Q

what are the uses of animal hair fibres

A
  • apparel fabrics such as luxury coats and suits
  • home textiles such as luxury interior textiles
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35
Q

what are animal hair fibres typically blended with

A

can be used alone or blended with wool to reduce cost

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36
Q

what is the fibre production of animal hair

A
  • in case of cashmere and angora, fibres need to be washed and dehaired to remove the course guard hairs before being spun into yarn
  • angora goats are shorn twice a year to collect mohair fibres. fibres are processed in similar way to wool fibres but extra care is taken to try and keep delicate fibres clean and free of debris
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37
Q

where does cultivated silk come from

A

the cocoon of the bombyx mori silk worm

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38
Q

where does wild silk come from

A

the cocoon of other species which is harvested after the moth has left the cocoon

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39
Q

why is cultivated silk production considered to be unethical

A

because the moth is killed before it can emerge and damage the cocoon breaking the filament fibre

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40
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of silk

A
  • excellent tensile strength due to long continuous length of fibres
  • very absorbent
  • anti static as moisture is always present
  • weak when wet so hard to care for
  • extensible and elastic
  • doesnt burn easily and self extinguishes
  • cool and warm
  • naturally lustrous
  • pleasant handle and comfortable to wear
  • has fluidity and drapes well
  • weakened if exposed to sunlight and sweat
  • biodegradable
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41
Q

what are the uses of silk

A
  • apparel fabrics such as formal wear
  • home textiles such as bedsheets
  • commercial textiles such as surgical sutures
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42
Q

what is silk typically blended and mixed with

A

wool

43
Q

what is the fibre production of silk

A
  • silkworm produces fibre when it pupates. 2 filaments of silk fluid are extruded from spinnerets below silk worms mouth. serecin coats filaments and holds them together to produce a single filament fibre which when wound around the body of the silkworm, creates a cocoon
  • to extract the fibre, cocoons are degummed by soaking them in boiling water killing the moths and softening the sericin
  • long continuous fibre is unwound from cocoon and is spun with three to ten silk fibres to form filament yarns
44
Q

what are the manufactured, cellulosic regenerated fibres

A
  • first generation fibres
  • new generation fibres
45
Q

what are the first generation fibres

A

acetate and viscose

46
Q

what is acetate made from

A

cotton fibre waste which is dissolved into a polymer solution by treating it with a solvent

47
Q

what is a solvent

A

a chemical is substance used to dissolve or dilute other substances or materials

48
Q

what is a viscose made from

A

wood pulp is dissolved into a polymer solution by treating it with a solvent

49
Q

how is acetate made

A

dry spinning: polymer solution is extruded into a stream of warm air which evaporates the solvent and solidifies the filament fibres

50
Q

how is viscose and modal made

A

wet spinning: the polymer solution is extruded into a chemical bath. different chemicals are used to make modal and viscose. the chemicals neutralise the solvent and solidify the cellulose from the wood pulp into filament fibres

51
Q

what are the new generation fibres

A

modal and lyocell

52
Q

what is modal made from

A

wood pulp from sustainably managed forests is dissolved into a polymer solution using a solvent

53
Q

what is lyocell made from

A

wood pulp from sustainable managed forests is dissolved using solvents

54
Q

how is lyocell made

A

in a closed loop system where cellulose from the wood pulp is regenerated in a similar way to wet spinning but water is used to wash and remove the solvent. the water and solvent are recovered and recycled for use within a close looped system

55
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of manufactured cellulosic regenerated fibres

A
  • structure allows similar or better levels of absorbency than cotton
  • shape can be changed using spinnerets with different cross sections
  • take dye and print techniques especially well
  • non static as some moisture is always present
  • easy care, but first generation fibres should not be tumble dried as they are prone to shrinking
  • naturally breathable with good wicking properties
  • low ability to trap air so cool to wear
  • first generation fibres have lower strength and resistance to abrasion than cotton
  • same or slightly better resistance to creasing than cotton
  • softer handle and better drape than cotton
  • degree of lustre can be engineered from subtle to bright whereas cotton is matt fibre
  • similar flammability to cotton due to cellulosic content
  • lower resistance to damage from sunlight, bleach and microorganisms than cotton
  • biodegradable and recyclable and inexpensive to produce
56
Q

what are the uses of manufactured regenerated fibres

A

fashion garments such lingerie

57
Q

what are manufactured regenerated fibres blended with

A

used in blends with natural fibres or on their own

58
Q

what is spinneret

A

the nozzle part of the spinning machine where the molten fibres are extruded

59
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of viscose

A
  • more absorbent than cotton and other regenerated fibres
60
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of modal

A
  • stretched more than viscose after spinning to make fibres stronger and can be tumble dried
  • silky smooth, very soft handle and drape
61
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of acetate

A
  • lower absorbency, prone to static
  • more elastic than others but still creases
  • thermoplastic capabilities
  • subdued lustre and elegant drape
62
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of lyocell

A
  • stronger and more extensible than cotton so doesnt crease as much
  • totally biodegradable, recyclable and made using a closed loop system that reuses the chemicals used in the manufacturing process
63
Q

what are the general characteristics of synthetic fibres

A
  • mostly manufactured using melt spinning process which produces very fine smooth continuous filament fibres
  • cross section shape of fibre can be engineered to give different properties
  • long continuous filament fibres can be left in their original state, textured or cut into staple form
  • can be coloured during manufacturing process
  • thermoplastic properties enable them to be heat set and shaped in a range of different ways
  • specific properties of each fibre are dependent on their chemical composition but most are very strong, non absorbent smooth and light weight
  • they come from non renewable sources and take many years to biodegrade
64
Q

how is polyamide produced

A

as continuous smooth filaments including very fine microfibres which can be textured or cut into staple fibres

65
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of polyamide

A
  • low absorbency, dries quickly, doesnt shrink, prone to static
  • very strong and durable, high abrasion resitance
  • good elasticity and crease recovery
  • low flammability, fabric melts and drips
  • thermoplastic: fibres can be textured, desired creases can be heat set or inadvertently added to fabric if washed at too high temperature
  • light weight and can have lustre if fibres are extruded as flat smooth surfaces that reflect a lot of light
  • cross section shape and fibre thickness can be engineered to provide fine, smooth soft fabrics thst drape well
  • fibre shape and texturing gives improved comfort and thermal qualities, enabling moisture to wick away from the body. flat smooth filaments trap little air so are cool and poor insulators
  • weakens in sunlight and chlorine bleach but resistant to chemicals and microorganisms
66
Q

what are the uses of polyamide

A

clothing, outdoor and active wear

67
Q

what are the brand names of polyamide

A

tactel

68
Q

what are the brand names of aramids

A
  • kevlar
  • nomex
69
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of aramids

A
  • good strength and durability
  • stab and tear resistant
  • fine and light weight
  • flexible for ease of movement
  • nomex has similar properties to kevlar and can withstand high temperatures
70
Q

what are the uses of aramids

A
  • bullet and stab proof vests
  • motor sport clothing
  • industiral work wear
71
Q

how is polyester produced

A

produced as continuous smooth filaments which can be textured or cut into staple fibres

72
Q

what are the brand names of polyester

A

trevira

73
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of polyester

A
  • very similar to polyamide
  • most commonly used synthetic fibre
  • better thermoplasticity properties qualities than polyamide
  • doesnt weaken in sunlight
  • non renewable source but can be recycled
74
Q

what are the uses of polyester

A
  • wide range of clothing
  • bedsheets
  • sewing thread
75
Q

how is acrylic made

A

spun using the wet or dry spinning method - mostly used as bulky staple fibres

76
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of acrylic

A
  • low absorbency, prone to static
  • easy care and dries quickly
  • good strength
  • sensitive to heat and highly flammable
  • good elasticity and crease resistant
  • good thermal qualities, soft and warm
  • wool like handle, with good drape
  • poor lustre
77
Q

what are the uses of acrylic

A
  • knitting yarn
  • knitwear
  • fake fur
78
Q

how are chlorofibres used

A

in a filament or staple form or as a coating

79
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of chlorofibres

A
  • strong
  • durable
  • breathable, easy care and waterproof
  • good insulator
  • can be recycled
80
Q

what are the uses of chlorofibres

A
  • raincoats
  • thermal clothing
  • active sportswear
81
Q

what are fluorofibres used as

A

mainly as a coating

82
Q

what is the brand name of flurofibres

A

teflon

83
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of flurofibres

A

when applied to fabric as finishing process the fabric is:
- water repellent and stain resistant
- easy care and less energy is needed to dry fabric
- durable and flexible
- breathable nut windproof

84
Q

what are the uses of fluorofibres

A
  • used to protect fabrics
  • work wear
  • soft furnishings
85
Q

what are elastomeric fibres used as

A

the core in corespun yarn and combined with natural and synthetic fibres

86
Q

what is the brand name of elastomeric

A

lycra

87
Q

what are the properties and characteristics of elastomeric fibres

A
  • lower absorbency and easy care
  • good tear resistance and durability
  • very fine and light weight
  • gives high degree of comfort and allows free movement
  • increases shape retention, crease recovery and improves drape in woven fabric
88
Q

what are the uses of elastomeric fibres

A
  • 1-2% in socks or trousers
  • 15-20% needed in swimwear or sportswear
89
Q

what are the inorganic fibres

A
  • glass
  • carbon
  • metal
  • ceramic
90
Q

what is the source of glass

A

powdered mineral compounds

91
Q

what is the processing method of glass

A

a direct melt method is used to draw filament glass fibres from the molten mineral compound - the fibres can be used as filaments or cut into staple fibres

92
Q

what are the properties of glass

A
  • high tensile strength but low extensibility
  • poor abrasion resistance
  • high heat resistance and thermal conductivity
  • impermeable and unaffected by sunlight, chemicals and microorganism attack
  • non stick, non toxic and reflective
93
Q

what are the uses of glass

A
  • insulation material in buildings
  • flame retardent fabrics
  • hospital wall coverings
94
Q

what is the source of carbon

A

carbon created by burning acrylic fibre

95
Q

what is the processing method of carbon

A

carbon fibres are twisted together to form a yarn than can be used by itself or made into a fabric

96
Q

what are the properties of carbon

A
  • very strong for its size
  • light weight
  • abrasion and tear resistant
  • flame resistant at very high temperatures
  • resistant to chemicals
97
Q

what are the uses of carbon

A
  • protective clothing
  • aeroplane interior
98
Q

what are the sources of metal

A
  • copper, aluminium and steel for common uses
  • titanium, gold and silver for special uses
99
Q

what is the processing method for metal

A
  • very thin layers of metal are laminated between clear film and cit lengthwise into thin strips
  • alternatively metal is heated until it vaporises and deposits at high pressure onto polyester fibres
100
Q

what are the properties of metal

A
  • strong and abrasion resistant
  • light weight
  • withstands high temperatures
  • good conductor of heat and electricity
  • anti bacterial and anti microbial
  • anti static
  • stiff handle and high lustre
101
Q

what are the sources of ceramics

A

powdered inorganic non metallic materials such as crystalline oxide. carbon and silicon are also considered ceramics

102
Q

what is the processing method of ceramic

A

incorporated into synthetic fibres by coating them with ceramic particles or encapsulating them in the fibre

103
Q

what are the properties of ceramic

A
  • resistant to 1000+ c temperatures
  • lightweight and resistant to chemicals
  • produces fabrics with UV protection
  • has heat deflection properties to regulate body temperature
  • has therapeutic properties if combined with body heat
104
Q

what are the uses of ceramic

A
  • industrial work wear
  • swimwear
  • bioceramic fabric

textiles paper 1 (4 decks)

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